Author Topic: YotaDave85's Exo Cage and Bumper Build (& Wheelin pics) (Read 53669 times)

Yota4life · « **Reply #30 on:** Jan 04, 2007, 07:01:03 PM »

4" spacing is the what the stock wheels are. Most people run 2.5" to get a wide stance.

Fearofrunner · « **Reply #31 on:** Jan 04, 2007, 08:47:59 PM »

Do you got the front wheels on yet? If so, any rubbing on the frame/leaf springs at full steer with the new tires? reason i ask man is I'm doing the same set up your doin and I'm just hoping that the rims i bought with 3 3/4 in back spacing will work with the same amount of lift you got. Thanks dude I'm really intrested to see where you get with your truck.

MisfitDave · « **Reply #32 on:** Jan 04, 2007, 09:03:04 PM »

I'll Let you know for sure. I have just got the Front up on blocks and about to tear into it so it may be a week or two before its on the street and I can tell how the setup is. I am definately going for a wider stance to so I will be giving ordering the wheel spacers tomorrow. I'm thinking 2" is good, or should I just go with the 3"? I don't wanna over do it.

topar · « **Reply #33 on:** Jan 04, 2007, 09:10:29 PM »

Truck is looking great. I am installing the same lift on mine. I installed power steering on mine. Its pretty simple stuff if you need any pics still I will be up working on mine on Sunday and will take photos for you then. Let me know.

dov'd85 · « **Reply #34 on:** Jan 04, 2007, 11:00:32 PM »

Quote from: YotaDave85 on Jan 04, 2007, 09:03:04 PM

I'll Let you know for sure. I have just got the Front up on blocks and about to tear into it so it may be a week or two before its on the street and I can tell how the setup is. I am definately going for a wider stance to so I will be giving ordering the wheel spacers tomorrow. I'm thinking 2" is good, or should I just go with the 3"? I don't wanna over do it.

personally i wouldn't go more than 1/2 in the front with an ifs rear axle and some 2.5 BS rims... your 4in back spacing wheels are just a stock back spacing... imo 3in wheel spacers :yikes:are to big you will put to much stress on your studs

MisfitDave · « **Reply #35 on:** Jan 05, 2007, 01:31:50 AM »

Topar I would love some pics, the whole idea of trying to put power steering in my truck with no help and my limited existing knowledge worries me! Thanks!
Dov'd do you think that the 2" wheel spacers would be alright? Or even less, I'm looking for the least expensive way to widen the stance of my truck with the wheels I've got.

MisfitDave · « **Reply #36 on:** Jan 05, 2007, 01:47:21 AM »

Here's a stupid question.

I have the front end all torn apart and went looking at the existing holes for the front end shackle hangers and this is what I found.

I figured this truck had some sort of lift on it when I bought it but no idea what kind. So the question is are these stock? And if so whats the best way to remove them only a grinder or sawzall and not mangle the frame?
Also here's some more pics to check out.

WooHoo for Energy!

dov'd85 · « **Reply #37 on:** Jan 05, 2007, 10:28:11 AM »

no thats stock did you buy a SAS kit? that peice of tube you are holding goes were that peice is in the frame rail... if you were doing a solid swap then you would drill a hole in the frame rail (were that tube is) and put that tube in the fram and weld it in...

why do you want to remove the tubes from the fram rails?

topar · « **Reply #38 on:** Jan 05, 2007, 03:02:03 PM »

I will be working on it Sunday and will post pics for you on Monday when I come back to work.

DTB · « **Reply #39 on:** Jan 05, 2007, 03:04:07 PM »

haha thats friggin weird!

MisfitDave · « **Reply #40 on:** Jan 06, 2007, 05:00:53 PM »

I ordered the whole Trailflex kit from Marlin and read the very brief install instructions and assumed that since I ordered the kit for an 85 they would send me only peices needed to lift an 85. So the jigs and shackle hanger tubing are just extras that I would be using if I were doing a SAS huh? And I will still need to fit and weld the new front spring hanger right?

MisfitDave · « **Reply #41 on:** Jan 07, 2007, 11:45:34 AM »

I Need to replace the rotors and probably the calipers as well on my truck. I would like to upgrade to a more powerful brake, any suggestions?

Fearofrunner · « **Reply #42 on:** Jan 07, 2007, 03:33:55 PM »

86-95 IFS V6 calipers with fj80 rotors, 1 inch boar Master cylinder from a IFS truck or marlins fj80, Then take that stupid protioning arm off the back brakes (thats probably rusted shut anyways) and get front range off roads prortiong valve kit http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=57&osCsid=a472b643106d3b5b35a69f176c9871b2 and you'll be surprised how well it will stop then.

If you didn't already know all this

DTB · « **Reply #43 on:** Jan 07, 2007, 03:36:46 PM »

Quote from: Fearofrunner on Jan 07, 2007, 03:33:55 PM

86-95 IFS V6 calipers with fj80 rotors, 1 inch boar Master cylinder from a IFS truck or marlins fj80, Then take that stupid protioning arm off the back brakes (thats probably rusted shut anyways) and get front range off roads prortiong valve kit http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=57&osCsid=a472b643106d3b5b35a69f176c9871b2 and you'll be surprised how well it will stop then. If you didn't already know all this

FROR kit seems overpriced to me. U can get the exact same fittings and valve from summit for cheaper

Fearofrunner · « **Reply #44 on:** Jan 07, 2007, 04:01:08 PM »

yeah, that's what i did at first but it just became a problem trying to find all the fittings that change from standard (which is the proportioning valve from summit) back to metric (which is the truck). After i bought the $42 proportioning valve and then all the fittings and lines from napa and then a flaring tool it came out to about the same price as FROR but with alot more hassel.

DTB · « **Reply #45 on:** Jan 07, 2007, 04:02:42 PM »

Quote from: Fearofrunner on Jan 07, 2007, 04:01:08 PM

yeah, that's what i did at first but it just became a problem trying to find all the fittings that change from standard (which is the proportioning valve from summit) back to metric (which is the truck). After i bought the $42 proportioning valve and then all the fittings and lines from napa and then a flaring tool it came out to about the same price as FROR but with alot more hassel.

good point..those fittings are damn near as much $$ as the valve itself

Fearofrunner · « **Reply #46 on:** Jan 07, 2007, 04:15:57 PM »

Quote

good point..those fittings are damn near as much $$ as the valve itself

Yeah and good luck trying to find a guy that understands what your trying to do with the valve and fittings. :haha:NAPA CRAPA

MisfitDave · « **Reply #47 on:** Jan 07, 2007, 09:27:27 PM »

Thanks guys, I think when I call to order the wheel spacers I'll order the calipers, rotors, and cylinder as well.

Fearofrunner · « **Reply #48 on:** Jan 07, 2007, 09:36:48 PM »

i got calipers from a junk yard for twenty bucks, bought a rebuild kit and repainted em up. Could have got the Master too but i didn't know you could use the ones off a IFS truck cheap easy upgrade no need for new stuff that doesn't wear out.

topar · « **Reply #49 on:** Jan 08, 2007, 04:07:40 PM »

I took those photos for you but it was raining and cloudy, and I have a new camera. First time I used it. The photos came out very dark So I will go back up and get some more photos for you this week. Sorry.

MisfitDave · « **Reply #50 on:** Jan 08, 2007, 10:01:04 PM »

No prob Topar, I probably won't be done with the axle and suspension till later this week anyway. I appreciate it.

Fearofrunner · « **Reply #51 on:** Jan 09, 2007, 01:12:51 PM »

Hey man just wanted to let you know that after you asked about the brakes i got a feather up my

to finish mine. With the larger calipers larger MC and proportioning valve the truck stops real nice.

. And if you do go the rout of upgrading the proporting valve do like what dirt toy said and get the cheaper summit valve. all you need then is two standard male fittings that will fit into the fittings the valve comes with (standard fittings easy to find) and then rent a flaring tool from autozone (you get all your money back when you return it), cut the hard line right after the MC, flare the lines and it's good. Just make sure you take the rear factory lever valve off and join the pressure line(which is the bottom hardline attached to the frame ) to the brake line with a metric female to female fitting and plug the return line (which is the top line above the pressure line on the frame) and the rear brakes actually work!

. If you want anymore information on the fitting numbers or pics of my setup just PM me. Good luck and nice build $Beer Chug\'n$

Fearofrunner · « **Reply #52 on:** Jan 09, 2007, 01:16:49 PM »

Oh yeah and where at in UT are you? I live here too.

MisfitDave · « **Reply #53 on:** Jan 10, 2007, 11:04:34 PM »

Here's how the front end is shaping up. Only problem I've run into so far was after an hour or more of measuring and making sure the spring hanger was center and flush i tacked it good then went to put the springs in and they both ran off to one side about an inch at the shackle end. So my thoughts were that it was so minor that by simply manhandling them where they should be and tightening everything up that they would do great. So thats what I did, I haven't welded anything serious yet so if this is a bigger problem than I'm thinking it is let me know, thanks. Here's some pics! (Less pics now school has started and slowed the build!)

Also, anyone have any ideas where to find a bumper like MC's with a winch mount and large hoop that I wouldn't have to wait 2 months for and preferably wouldn't get bent over for either?

Gittinit · « **Reply #54 on:** Jan 11, 2007, 05:04:27 AM »

Quote from: YotaDave85 on Jan 10, 2007, 11:04:34 PM

Here's how the front end is shaping up. Only problem I've run into so far was after an hour or more of measuring and making sure the spring hanger was center and flush i tacked it good then went to put the springs in and they both ran off to one side about an inch at the shackle end. So my thoughts were that it was so minor that by simply manhandling them where they should be and tightening everything up that they would do great. So thats what I did, I haven't welded anything serious yet so if this is a bigger problem than I'm thinking it is let me know, thanks.

Also, anyone have any ideas where to find a bumper like MC's with a winch mount and large hoop that I wouldn't have to wait 2 months for and preferably wouldn't get bent over for either?

The spring prob may cause some premature bushing wear. Also it might cause problems getting the springs alinged with the perches. As far as a bumper ya should watch the for sale section and ya get what ya pay for.

MisfitDave · « **Reply #55 on:** Jan 11, 2007, 01:04:40 PM »

So if the springs line up with the perches now is it worth having to replace bushings every year or should i start ripping the welds apart? Because I can't figure where I'm off i was so maticulous about measuring and centering and making sure things were flush!

Shoyrtt · « **Reply #56 on:** Jan 11, 2007, 02:12:01 PM »

We did the trail flex kit on my 85 last year and had no trouble.

Take some measurements and maybe we can compare before you start ripping stuff up.

MisfitDave · « **Reply #57 on:** Jan 11, 2007, 07:18:51 PM »

I don't know where a good place to measure from is. The spring hanger is welded so I doubt I could get it off now without having to order a new one. I'm ready to call it good, what do you think?

Yota4life · « **Reply #58 on:** Jan 11, 2007, 07:28:44 PM »

I am thinking maybe the frame is tweaked. If you have the spring hanger centered up then there is nothing more you could do.....

DTB · « **Reply #59 on:** Jan 11, 2007, 07:36:05 PM »

Quote from: Yota4life on Jan 11, 2007, 07:28:44 PM

I am thinking maybe the frame is tweaked.

That was my first thought too. have u checked it for straightness?

MisfitDave [OP]

MisfitDave [OP]

MisfitDave [OP]

MisfitDave [OP]

MisfitDave [OP]

MisfitDave [OP]

MisfitDave [OP]

MisfitDave [OP]

MisfitDave [OP]

MisfitDave [OP]

Related Topics