Topic: Brake bleeding help!

[stillakid]

Flame away  :flamer:but I'm having a major problem with my brakes and getting them bled correctly.  First I have an 84 4runner and I just put the wider IFS rear axle on the runner with a u-bolt flip kit.  Once I had everything bolted on, I tried to bleed the brakes and I can't seem to get all the air bubbles out.  If I open the front brakes, everything is great (no air).  If I check at the proportioning valve above the spare tire, no air.  At the rear wheel though, the air keeps coming.  I've used about a 1/2 gallon of brake fluid at this point.  Am I missing something?  Can air be getting in somewhere if there are no leaks with fluid coming out?  OR is there something else I need to change because of the axle swap (master cylinder?). 

I'm lost at this point so I need some advice...

[79coyotefrg]

how are you bleeding the brakes??

[MiniSimp]

Just keep your front and proportioning valve closed, bleed the rear until there is no air. Took me about 5 rotations to get all the air out of mine after the swap.

[79coyotefrg]

i bypassed the LSPV  years ago 


but  i can see having the  bigger brakes  it  might be needed

[CTENG in KS]

Yup...you might want to open each rear valve and just push fluid right through it...your problem is that you have to get the lines plus the cylinders filled with fluid...thats quite a bit of air.
Another solution is a pressure bleeder which will go much more quicker...

[79coyotefrg]

Yup...you might want to open each rear valve and just push fluid right through it...your problem is that you have to get the lines plus the cylinders filled with fluid...thats quite a bit of air.
Another solution is a pressure bleeder which will go much more quicker...

use the buddy system  and work slow

[stillakid [OP]]

I've been using the buddy system.  The wife was sitting in the truck for like 2 hours on a couple of different days.  Pumping and holding but still air in the system.

I just thought of another strange thing.  If she would pump the pedal like 5 times and hold it down, and I open the front brakes or the proportioning valve at the rear, the pedal goes down to the floor.  If she pumps and holds and I open either of the rear brakes, the pedal does not go down.

what should I check next?  Do I need to take the wheels off now and check to see if the wheel cylinders are leaking in air  somehow?  Or just keep pumping and holding with my little glass jar and rubber hose?

Does that help any more?

Greg   

[stillakid [OP]]

Can you buy a power bleeder for a reasonable amount?  If one is not too much money, I might just try that.  What does one cost?

[79coyotefrg]

I've been using the buddy system.  The wife was sitting in the truck for like 2 hours on a couple of different days.  Pumping and holding but still air in the system.

I just thought of another strange thing.  If she would pump the pedal like 5 times and hold it down, and I open the front brakes or the proportioning valve at the rear, the pedal goes down to the floor.  If she pumps and holds and I open either of the rear brakes, the pedal does not go down.

what should I check next?  Do I need to take the wheels off now and check to see if the wheel cylinders are leaking in air  somehow?  Or just keep pumping and holding with my little glass jar and rubber hose?

Does that help any more?

Greg  

   take the LSPV arm off the axle  and tie it up to the frame, then bleed 

sorry 

[stillakid [OP]]

The LVSP arm the that weird arm that goes from the proportioning valve and bolts with 2 bolts to the left side of the rear axle, right?  I never did understand what that thing did.  So I should tie it all the way up and then try bleeding again?

I'll try that and let you know.

thanks
Greg

[jimbo74]

Can you buy a power bleeder for a reasonable amount?  If one is not too much money, I might just try that.  What does one cost?

they are like $50 you can get them may places, i believe the brand name is motive power bleeder

[Saber]

Save yourself a lot of time, money, and a buddy.  Pick up some speed bleeders and do the job by yourself...

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RUS%2D639560&N=700+301361+4294907680+4294907510+115&autoview=sku

Anyone who has ever used a power bleeder will (or should) tell you they don't exactly work as advertised.  With speed bleeders, absolutely no air will enter due to a spring loaded bearing inside.  Brake fluid and air has a one way trip out.  Hook up your clear hose, drain it in whatever and start by bleeding the farthest line first, working toward the shortest.  If you must keep your LSPV, bleed it last.  I too would recommend ditching the LSPV.  Chances are it's broken anyway.   

Best of luck!

[79coyotefrg]

The LVSP arm the that weird arm that goes from the proportioning valve and bolts with 2 bolts to the left side of the rear axle, right?  I never did understand what that thing did.  So I should tie it all the way up and then try bleeding again?

I'll try that and let you know.

thanks
Greg

yes the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve

take it loose from the axle  and tie it  up to the frame  and leave it there, 

[mad maud]

try looking on ebay for an ezee bleed ,its just a bottle with a couple of tubes that attach to your spare  and use the pressure from that, dead easy, shouldnt cost more than $20

[Oddmar]

Or just do what Saber suggested, but instead of Summitt Racing at $10.00 each, go to http://www.speedbleeder.com/automobile_applications.htm#Toyota and pay $7.00 each...that's 4 for $28.00...the little can and hose, having a buddy help pump, the 'trick' devices to get it done, those all suck compared to the simplicity of SpeedBleeders.

And i second the motion of getting rid of the LSPV...mine are always frozen up, and i always snap off the bleeder screws anyway. Go to Auto Zone and buy some new brake lines, too, if you notice it leaking anywhere. Brake line is cheap.