More Engine Woes...GOOD NEWS!

[CTENG in KS]

Maybe there is a blockage att he tensioner or something...I don't know.

[Weldo]

I just looked at mine, and there is no gasket.  Its just a metal to metal seal.  Maybe you can remove your tensioner to make sure there are no knicks or dents in the mating surfaces of the block and tensioner.  Since there is no gasket even a tiny knick could cause a loss of sealing power. 

Also it looked like it would be impossible for the tensioner to bind up by rubbing on the block because of the way the block is recessed behind where the arm of the tensioner extends.

[CTENG in KS]

That what I thought, didn't remember there being a gasket...I also don't remember there being any nicks on the block...I wiped down all the surfaces and it was pretty smooth.  I will start pulling things apart and see how it goes...

[CTENG in KS]

Got the new oil pump on and everything buttoned up and went with 20w-50 for a little extra oil pressure help.  Trcuk started right up and within 20 seconds the oil pressure came right up about half way on the gauge...right were it should be.  Not long after the temp gauge actually came up as well.  I was excited as you can imagine, but then I tried blipping the throttle and the loud nasty noise is still there.  I used my best screwdriveroscope and when I hit the throttle I can clearly hear the timing chain rapping against something...probably the guide bolts.

Tensioner still isn't tensioning.  Anybody know which bolt on the front cover is the one that sits above the tensioner...I wasn't sure just by looking.  Other than that...I am out of ideas other than pulling the whole front of the motor apart AGAIN.   

[CTENG in KS]

Which one of these here bolts?

[CTENG in KS]

Cmon...somebody know which bolt it is??? HELP!

[CTENG in KS]

Here is another question...anyone been successful pulling the timing cover without also pulling the head or oil pan?

[CTENG in KS]

It was a gorgeous night so I decided to pull the front of the motor apart...took pics:

[CTENG in KS]

Smore...

[CTENG in KS]

There is some were on the inside of the cover...likely the chain...
So here is the question...if the tensioner is hydraulic, then if I cover the little hole with my finger and try to compress the tensioner, it should build up some pressure right?

Cause it doesn't build any pressure, no hissing, no air movement...nothing.  Bad tensioner?

[olivedrab85]

It's the bolt that goes in the top of the oil pump. It isn't installed in this pic but if it's to long it will hang up the tensioner. Try backing this bolt out a bit and see if the tensioner will pump up.

Which one of these here bolts?

[CTENG in KS]

before i pulled everything apart i looked down from the top and could clearly see that i did indeed have the correct length boly in that hole.  i think the tensioner is a dud.

[79coyotefrg]

aaahhhh...I don't remember taking off a gasket from the old one, or a gasket coming with the kit...Is there supposed to be a gasket??
Why would the pressure drop after a while?

no theres not a gasket on the tensioner on a 22R

[79coyotefrg]

go get a bore brush  for a .40 caliper  and  cleaning rods for a rifle,   insert the bore brush into that hole  and clean that NASTYSLUDGE  out  , you'll need to remove the oilpan  and pickup tube

[79coyotefrg]

those oil  passages  have GOT to be cleaned 

[CTENG in KS]

Yeah, I know...that is a project for this week.  Where do I get these special brush things?
WHat about the tensioner, should it build pressure if I close the valve w/ my finger and try to compress it?

I was able to get my old throttle cble to thread through there though...it is gunky, but the passage is open.

[CTENG in KS]

 I was playing around with the tensioner again and I want to know if anyone has seen this.  If I plug the opening compress the tensioner air and oil bubble out where the arrow is pointing.  Is that a release valve or is it FUBAR?

[79coyotefrg]

that  shouldnt bubble from there 


go to any place that sells guns,  you need a rifle cleaning  rod set  and a .40 caliper  bore brush

heck even a 30 caliper bore brush  would be alot better than what you got

[CTENG in KS]

I went and got some 3mm pipe cleaners to see if there was a blockage...I was able to thread them pretty far into the block and got it so clean at this point that white pipe cleaner comes back out still white.  I also ran the old throttle cable up from the pickup mount through and out the front at the oil pump inputs.

Think I am in good shape, or will the bore cleaner do a better job still?  About how far in should I be able to get the cleaner into the block from the tensioner hole?

[snowrun]

That much silicone can plug up a lot of oil passages in your motor. I would check into a new tensioner and see if it feels similar to yours and make sure you have the short bolt in front of the tensioner. It is easy to see if you install the oil pump onto the front cover before you put it on. the bolt hole in the middle of your cover(the only one without silicone) is the one to watch. If you look at it, you can see the indentations wherre the tensioner bolts sit behind it. the bolt should not protrude beyond the inner cover surface.

[CTENG in KS]

I did check the bolt, it is the right one...I could see it by looking down from the top with the valve cover off.
I have a new tensioner on the way, I will def be comparing the two when it gets here.  I also picked up some 30 and 40 cal bore brushes per glens sugestion and I have been cleaning every spec of grim out of the oil passages.  I will be using std gaskets as well instead of RTV when I reinstall.

[Willy Mammoth]

Hard to see from the picture of the tentioner, but if the tentioner has oil in it as in you didn't clean it all out with solvent, you should be able to block both holes ( pin hole and the other hole where the arrow is) and get some resistance. If there is leakage between the body of the tentioner and the plate it should seal when tightened up.

BUT does the plate cover the hole in the block? It looks like the cut out in the plate will not properly seal off the large oil port. That should be the feed port I believe and the pin hole should be the bleed off. Other way around and you would not have any pressure at all.

Where did you get the tentioner? If not Toyota it wouldn't hurt to look at the real thing. 

[CTENG in KS]

Mr. Mammoth...where the arrow points to is not a port at all.  There is no oil passage that lines up there, the only port is the single little one...self adjusting as the oil pressure fluctuates.  That is why I am bothered by the seepage of air and oil from where the arrow is pointing to.

[Willy Mammoth]

Gasket and silicone? Or gust silicone?  Where is the chain hitting? Looks like the driver side at the waterpump impeller boss. If so it looks like the front of the chain is hitting. That could be because of the extra space that is lost from not having a gasket?

Also, how is the end play on the crank?

[Willy Mammoth]

I would get a new Toyota replacement and check it before installing it to see if it is any differant.


BTW, what's with the MR

[Willy Mammoth]

Does the aera in the circle look like it is rubbing the tensioner? And is the arrow pointing at the wear?

I wounder about the gasket thing.  No gasket on the timing cover?

[mickeyfinn]

you said you decked the head. how much did you cut off. the single row chain with plastic rails have a problem with noise when you cut the head to much.

[CTENG in KS]

The head was shaved just enough to get it back to flat.  I have attached pic circled the wear.  Before it was installed only rtv as the original was.  I have gaskets to use this time.

[mickeyfinn]

if you were not using gaskets the area below the tensioner is the oil pickup and feed. it looks like you didn't have a good seal in that area which could cause you to pickup air or loose pressure. ALWAYS use some type of cleaner, such as denatured alcohol or a brake clean that doesn't contain oil. crc has a light oil. we use next dimension. it is cheap and it comes in a large can. the best is the denatured alcohol.

[CTENG in KS]

if you were not using gaskets the area below the tensioner is the oil pickup and feed. it looks like you didn't have a good seal in that area which could cause you to pickup air or loose pressure. ALWAYS use some type of cleaner, such as denatured alcohol or a brake clean that doesn't contain oil. crc has a light oil. we use next dimension. it is cheap and it comes in a large can. the best is the denatured alcohol.

Thnx...I will grab some den. alcohol and swab everything down before install.