Author Topic: "Easyline" Runner build (Read 21234 times)

toynorcal · « **Reply #30 on:** Jul 23, 2006, 05:48:16 PM »

Quote from: justachillin on Jul 23, 2006, 01:35:37 AM

She's 7 months and just let me buy a quad. Its not going anywhere. She will go before the jeep does.

atta boy! Oh, and you know your bringing your jeep with us for MCR5 right? No excuses!

toynorcal · « **Reply #31 on:** Jul 23, 2006, 05:53:10 PM »

Quote from: yota-tota on Jul 22, 2006, 08:22:18 PM

Hey man you should plate those motor mounts.....only takes 10 mins with some 1.5" flat bar and your done. Oh i love the flatened rear fenders

Thanks bro, I am pretty happy with the way the fenders came out too. I plan on doing a lot of minor reinforcement work all over this thing once I get it trail ready. Then I can spend nickles and dimes getting things reinforced.

toynorcal · « **Reply #32 on:** Jul 26, 2006, 09:24:42 AM »

Well, I have the rig at the shop right now. I thought that the tensioner/guides and oil pump were causing the slight knocking I was hearing because I had put a short block in this thing a year ago and those are the only parts I didn't replace. Guess I was wrong. I did however start it up a few times to move it when it had bad gas in it and now I am thinking the knock may be comming from a bent push rod? I hope it turns out to be nothing major.

Shamb · « **Reply #33 on:** Jul 26, 2006, 12:55:12 PM »

why would it be a bent push rod?

Ramrod · « **Reply #34 on:** Jul 26, 2006, 03:32:00 PM »

no such thing as a push rod in a 22re

toynorcal · « **Reply #35 on:** Jul 26, 2006, 04:09:45 PM »

Quote from: TEAM RAMROD on Jul 26, 2006, 03:32:00 PM

no such thing as a push rod in a 22re

Good point...

Can't even think straight from stressing on it man, under 12k on the block and the thing is knocking after one winter. Ran the bit of bad gas in it and now I am sitting here trying to figure out whats causing the knock. I'm about ready to throw a match on it and burn it to the ground, then mabey I could get a decent nights sleep.

Shamb · « **Reply #36 on:** Jul 26, 2006, 05:26:36 PM »

Maybe you should start with fixing all the vacuum leaks and then go from there..........................

Ramrod · « **Reply #37 on:** Jul 27, 2006, 04:29:23 PM »

mine has about 3k and has a knock tap I cant figure out. I'm just gonna run it and see what happens. On the trail and road ive noticed most 22re's are like that

Shamb · « **Reply #38 on:** Jul 27, 2006, 08:30:49 PM »

i've heard that some 22re's are made out of a different type of metal or cast so it expands alot more when hot.. thats what causes that tapping noise you hear.. my 88 did the exact same thing.. ran it for years and everything was fine.

toynorcal · « **Reply #39 on:** Jul 28, 2006, 10:14:53 AM »

Well, what bothers me is that this motor was never sounded like this. Last year when we all ran that trip it was great shape, no knocks ect. I doubt it is the cast... The knock is it's worse at start up. Once the oil gets circulating it takes the noise down some. If I had a little more cash I would just take it to Curtis. I shoud have some news this weekend.

yotadork83 · « **Reply #40 on:** Jul 28, 2006, 10:57:53 AM »

Quote from: toynorcal on Jul 28, 2006, 10:14:53 AM

Well, what bothers me is that this motor was never sounded like this. Last year when we all ran that trip it was great shape, no knocks ect. I doubt it is the cast... The knock is it's worse at start up. Once the oil gets circulating it takes the noise down some. If I had a little more cash I would just take it to Curtis. I shoud have some news this weekend.

you should plastic gage your rod bearings i know you got a short block on it last year but my buddies just did the same thing and it was a rod bearing.

toynorcal · « **Reply #41 on:** Aug 06, 2006, 12:59:25 AM »

Figured its about time for an update, and the new news is aluminum shavings in the bottom of the oil pan.

This could be bad, but we will see. The front is opened up and the chain/guides look normal. No obvious problems is the head or underneath. Gonna have to dig a little deaper to see whats happening. I have my fingers crossed that I had just a slight loss of pressure and cooked a rod bearing with out really screwing this motor up.

Good news it hasn't blown any black or blue smoke..

toynorcal · « **Reply #42 on:** Aug 14, 2006, 10:15:34 AM »

Well, the oil pump started eating its self, causing most of the aluminum shavings found in the pan. That in turn started to cook my bearings. Even though it didn't spin the bearings and the scarring on the crank shaft is very very light, I am replacing it just for peace of mind. Luckly nothing else was damaged. So, in all its getting a new oil pump, timing kit, and crank kit. Should have it back by the end of the week so I can get back to the MCR5 prep work.

toynorcal · « **Reply #43 on:** Aug 14, 2006, 03:20:07 PM »

This is pretty sick, its deffinatly going on my winter projects list.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=484247

toynorcal · « **Reply #44 on:** Aug 20, 2006, 09:26:21 PM »

Well, I finally got around to putting together my half doors. I wasn't sure about the design and would have saved myself alot of work if I had figured it out before hand. Just need to grind down the edges then polish and paint.

Shamb · « **Reply #45 on:** Aug 20, 2006, 09:59:34 PM »

those turned out nice John, just need to clean them up and they'll be ready for a cold Coors

toynorcal · « **Reply #46 on:** Aug 28, 2006, 02:14:08 PM »

She's running and the motor feels great. Its the first time I have had the chance to stretch her legs and I was pretty happy with the outcome.

Thrid gear is louder than the rest, havent looked into it at all and I don't know any history since this tranny is new to me. Sounds like it boggs down though (no power loss) between 32-37 MPH.

If anyone has any thoughts though I sure would appreciate it, I am not a transmission man by any means.

I still have the same old grinding sound from the rear drive shaft. I guess I should have put a CV on it when I had it lengthend.

But with a slight aglingment change and a little bleeding of the brakes she'll be ready for MCR5

toynorcal · « **Reply #47 on:** Aug 28, 2006, 02:19:40 PM »

Other mentions, square front D-Shaft is done. I'll be testing the travel on that tonight.

Picked up a few cans of flat black paint to do some trim work and cover those weld burns.

toynorcal · « **Reply #48 on:** Sep 02, 2006, 06:03:17 PM »

Started making some trail armor.

Diff guards
Ball joint gussets
Bigger C-clips for the brake lines (since I busted the lines before from movement)

toynorcal · « **Reply #49 on:** Sep 02, 2006, 06:07:01 PM »

Installed that square D-shaft with a CV on it. It's made from hitch ad reciever tube, took it up to 20MPH before I felt the vibration.

More than enough travel.

toynorcal · « **Reply #50 on:** Sep 02, 2006, 06:14:38 PM »

The soon to be wife and I had some fun with the flat black rattle can. I like the look. Half doors are mounted and ready to go (they work great). We did not have the RTI ramp at the house today so I made due with the dirt pile out back to get you guys some moderate flex pics.

DTB · « **Reply #51 on:** Sep 02, 2006, 07:03:51 PM »

never seen a weld like that......

why does it look like that? do your rear tires still rub after all that trimming? interesting build

Phat_Biatch · « **Reply #52 on:** Sep 02, 2006, 07:26:29 PM »

I think the concept behind the way he welded it is so that if one of the welds gets a crack and starts to break it doesn't crack all the way across, only that section breaks and stops.

toynorcal · « **Reply #53 on:** Sep 02, 2006, 11:57:23 PM »

When I put the SAS kit on there was a big gap between it and the chassis. I used a piece of strap to fill it rather than grind down the ends or lay a fat weld over the gap. The welds tie the SAS kit to the strap and then the strap to chassis. The welds actually are laced together but not by very much, this way if a crack does strat it's not going to run very far.

Yeah the tires rub, but the lugs don't grab so its not bad for now.

Thanks Rudy, just thought I'd give a little mor info.

Shamb · « **Reply #54 on:** Sep 03, 2006, 08:43:34 PM »

John i'm going to run into your truck, you ready for your first dent?

toynorcal · « **Reply #55 on:** Sep 03, 2006, 11:51:08 PM »

Wheres that flip off button I'm looking for ?

Shamb · « **Reply #56 on:** Sep 04, 2006, 08:22:42 AM »

I found something in my pocket for you, OH! here it is

toynorcal · « **Reply #57 on:** Sep 05, 2006, 07:54:41 AM »

Hey, good one.....

b_ripper8 · « **Reply #58 on:** Sep 05, 2006, 09:54:38 AM »

If you want to keep that gas tank idea Toyota, the FJ60's have a tank very similar to that.

toynorcal · « **Reply #59 on:** Sep 05, 2006, 02:18:17 PM »

Quote from: b_ripper8 on Sep 05, 2006, 09:54:38 AM

If you want to keep that gas tank idea Toyota, the FJ60's have a tank very similar to that.

I guess my only problem with it would be that is harder to get my hands on an FJ60 tank than an f-150's. It would deffinatly cure the sending unit problem, but reading E as F and vice-versa isn't that big of a deal. There is also the option of fabbing the mount for the Toy unit... so many options, I am going to take my time before tackling this (code for: my woman is pissed about me spending more money on the rig).

But good info man, I will be looking into it

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