Author Topic: Trailers  (Read 8187 times)

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Hyena

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Trailers
« on: Feb 22, 2006, 06:39:42 PM »
S i have been fishing around for trailers to tow my toy with.  I have found a few places such as www.indianvalleytrailers.com , www.pacwesttrailers.com , and www.sundownertrailer.com .   All of those are ok.  But the best deal i have found is www.performancespecialty.com .  Performance specialty is about 1 1/3 hours north of me.  Not a bad trip.  Sundowner is close to me but the prices aren't the best and they sell Big Tex trailers which i have heard aren't great either.  Pac west trailers is also close to me but there prices are pretty high.  I believe Indian Valley trailers is located in texas but they charge about $400 to ship it.  What i found at Performance Specialty looks pretty good.  Here it is.  http://www.performancespecialty.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=25

16 feet by 8 feet.  $1,650.00 before tax and registration
7,000 lb. GVWR
Wrap around tongue for added strength
E-Z Lube Axles 
Electric Brakes on one axle
Dovetail 
15" Custom Wheels
New 6 ply rated trailer specific tires
DOT approved light package
Raised wood deck to help open doors over the fenders  (Approx 9“ from deck to the top of the fender)
2 5/16" Ball hitch
2,000 lb. Tongue jack
Ramps and Ramp storage
Colors available at no charge (subject to colors on hand).
76" between the fenders of usable space.





Has anyone heard of this company?  Has anyone seen a better price?  I think this is the trailer i will be getting shortly.
« Last Edit: Feb 26, 2006, 07:57:46 PM by Hyena »

scheid6996

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #1 on: Feb 22, 2006, 06:55:02 PM »
never heard of them,  but it looks like a good deal, have u looked at parker performance trailers?
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Re: Trailers
« Reply #2 on: Feb 22, 2006, 06:59:33 PM »
I've heard of them but, they are too far away for me. They had the lowest prices when I was looking.

Hyena [OP]

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #3 on: Feb 22, 2006, 07:09:14 PM »
Parker Performance is located in Texas?  Kinda far away too.  shipping would be a bit high.  I didn't see any prices on the site either.

reklund5

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #4 on: Feb 22, 2006, 07:11:02 PM »
Hyena-

Just went thru this a year or two back...  Here's what I learned:

-The recessed D-rings in the deck of the trailer are pretty much worthless on EVERY trailer I've seen.  They're only held in by 4 of the same screws that hold the deck down usually, and I wouldn't trust them to hold any vehicle of mine onto the trailer.  My trailer is 16' total length with a dovetail, and the placement of the D-rings wouldn't work to hold my truck down anyway.  I run chains from the axles to the stake pockets that are welded on the sides and the front of the trailer. 

- I wished that I had gone for an 18' trailer.  The extra room sure would be nice for a toolbox on the front of the deck, bigger vehicles, etc.

- Go for a trailer with RECESSED lights.  I moved the license plate onto the left rear fender (mounted vertically) to keep it from getting torn off.  The recessed lights are really nicer, and worth any extra cost involved.  If the option is there, go for LED lights to take the electrical load off of the tow vehicles electrical system.

- Plan on rewiring the damn thing no matter what.  It seems that all trailer companies use crappy wiring, coupled with crappy t-taps and scotch locks to wire them up.  Most all new trailers I've seen have wiring trouble that results in inoperative brakes or lights.  On mine, I rewired the entire trailer with high quality wiring and soldered and heat shrunk connections.

- Be sure to get a spare tire in the deal.  You'd be surprised at how many retailers DON'T include a spare in the price of the trailer.  Also, be sure it has NEW tires.  Some will use used tires to cut costs.  Be sure the tires are rated for TRAILER SERVICE.  No passenger car tires!  <edit- I just re-read that the trailer listed has trailer specific tread>

-See if you can get a trailer with a "bulldog" style coupler.  They're way stronger than the stampd steel couplers that are in your picture.

-A folding tounge jack is nice to keep from dragging the bottom off on steep driveways. Without a folding jack, I wouldn't be able to back my trailer into my driveway...

- A pressure-treated wood deck keeps the deck nicer longer...see what kind of lumber they use.

If you have any more questons...PM Me.  I bought a used trailer and have upgraded most of it in the past year so it suits my needs...

Ryan



'84 Hilux, locked, dual-cased, winched, EFI converted, 37" tired, half-doored (in the summer...)
'87 Supra, 400 HP.  smooth as glass at 130 'cause my tires are NEW!...
'92 F250 Diesel, tow rig, ATS Turbo, leveling kit, killer stereo

scheid6996

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #5 on: Feb 22, 2006, 07:12:29 PM »
freeway trailers sells parker trailers
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Hyena [OP]

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #6 on: Feb 22, 2006, 07:26:47 PM »
Thanx Reklund.  that helped a bunch.  the trailer i have been borrowing uses the recessed D rings on the deck.  but now that i think of it they aren't really in that great of a place.  I can add a 2" bulldog coupler for $55.  I like the 16 footer, its fits my truck nicely.  I don't need any storage on the trailer becasue i pretty much keep all my tools i own in my toyota.  I will keep in mind the swing up jack.  i might be able to find a spare tire, i gave one to a friend so i will see if i can get it back.  thanx

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #7 on: Feb 22, 2006, 08:11:55 PM »
You bet!  The only other thing to consider is a  raised rail on the front of the trailer.  Mine kept my truck from rolling forward off the trailer onto the tongue when my wife left the ebrake off after pulling it onto the trailer...

You can always plasma cut the holes for the recessed lights yourself later on...LED recessed light kits are cheap on ebay.  Often referred to as "chicken lights" by truckers, they're cheap at truckstops too...


Ryan

'84 Hilux, locked, dual-cased, winched, EFI converted, 37" tired, half-doored (in the summer...)
'87 Supra, 400 HP.  smooth as glass at 130 'cause my tires are NEW!...
'92 F250 Diesel, tow rig, ATS Turbo, leveling kit, killer stereo

Hyena [OP]

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #8 on: Feb 22, 2006, 09:29:51 PM »
Ya, i have some 2x2 that i could weld onto the front to make a raised portion.  the lights shouldn't be too hard to do either.

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #9 on: Feb 22, 2006, 10:02:23 PM »
if you have the time build your own thats what ill be doing here in a little wile most places that sell trailer parts will have some plans that you can buy

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #10 on: Feb 23, 2006, 04:28:25 PM »
Metal deck, not wood.  LED's.  Front bar.  D rings at least eight instead of stake pockets, get 'em welded to the frame rail.  You'll be happier later.
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Re: Trailers
« Reply #11 on: Feb 23, 2006, 08:40:12 PM »
B-C Trailers Sales in Manteca (209)-239-9531. They sell Dargo trailers built in Madera. Cheapest one around when I was looking.
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freds40

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #12 on: Feb 23, 2006, 08:52:26 PM »
Ya might check how much it is to add brakes to the second axle. It's usually about $150 for most dealers. Mine was right @ 2k  for an 18 ft overall, last 3' dove. Brakes both axles and so on. It takes more strain off the tow vehicles brakes and can be used exclusively to stop the entire setup if necessary. BTW, 18 foot trailers pull way better than 16s. 16s aren't bad, but if I have the choice, I always preffer 18'.
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FatAzzRunner

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #13 on: Feb 24, 2006, 10:17:02 PM »
Hyena,

I agree with reklund, the rail is NICE on the front for several reasons............It does in fact save you from having your truck roll off the front of the trailer and down onto the neck of the trailer or worse yet, into your towrig.  It is nice to have to strap stuff to as well.  I have never had it happen to me but I have seen it several times at camps and it sucks, it can ruin a trip REALLY fast.

I agree with the Rings in the floor, I would buy weld on D rings and just weld the heck out of them.

I agree with the 18ft. trailer, 16ft, with a  2ft. dovetail.  I NEVER thought or planned on having a tool box on mine but now I do and I would NEVER have been able to put it on without it.

I too am going to put on LED brake lights on my trailer soon and rewire the whole thing as well.  My wiring is pretty nice but I want it to be better.

The only other thing I WISH mine had was removable fenders if you ever need to pull something on there that is full width.
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V-Man

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #14 on: Feb 25, 2006, 12:39:40 AM »
S i have been fishing around for trailers to tow my toy with. 


16 feet by 8 feet.  $1,650.00 before tax and registration
7,000 lb. GVWR
Wrap around tongue for added strength
E-Z Lube Axles 
Electric Brakes on one axle
Dovetail 
15" Custom Wheels
New 6 ply rated trailer specific tires
DOT approved light package
Raised wood deck to help open doors over the fenders  (Approx 9“ from deck to the top of the fender)
2 5/16" Ball hitch
2,000 lb. Tongue jack
Ramps and Ramp storage
Colors available at no charge (subject to colors on hand).
76" between the fenders of usable space.

I am going to add 4 recessed D rings for $35 a piece.  so the total will be $1790 before tax and registration.


Has anyone heard of this company?  Has anyone seen a better price?  I think this is the trailer i will be getting shortly.


   Forget it.. It doesn't have hydraulic brakes your getting riped off.. With that much weight( the trailer and the "toy") you need a good brake system.  Electric brakes are very bad for rusting up, and you don't have to live in a rainy part of the country for it to happen.  The hydraulic system works off the tongue, when the brakes on the tow vehicle are appied the trailer pushes against the bal on the hitch and appies the brakes on the trailer. The trailer has a small master cylinder(just like under your trucks hood) and force is applied to hydraulic brakes on the trailer. There is also a break away lever that applies the trailer brakes if it comes off the ball, and can also be used to act as a PARKBRAKE when unload/loading and when hooking and unhooking the trailer. You can back the trailer up from a stop with out applying the trailer brakes. Go down to the local U-haul yard and look at the big double axled trailers, they have the system, and there are brakes on BOTH axles, meaning four tires=four brakes. The hard you apply the truck brakes the harder the trailer is pushed against the hitch ball and the harder the trailer brakes are appiled. Eletric brakes only have two options "applied" or "not applied", and applied means the same braking force to the drums at 5 MPH or a 65 MPH painic stop.   :twocents:   

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #15 on: Feb 25, 2006, 11:09:26 AM »
I disagree.  Surge brakes are generally a pain in the ass, and properly maintained electric brakes work fine.  Add in a quality brake controller like a prodigy, and you're set.  The prodigy and other quality controllers are not simply on and off controllers, and work way better than the old school ones. 

The surge brakes at uhaul are there so any vehicle can tow their trailer and still have brakes.  Electric brakes will be fine for most people, especially those of us who can maintain them ourselves.

Ryan
'84 Hilux, locked, dual-cased, winched, EFI converted, 37" tired, half-doored (in the summer...)
'87 Supra, 400 HP.  smooth as glass at 130 'cause my tires are NEW!...
'92 F250 Diesel, tow rig, ATS Turbo, leveling kit, killer stereo

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #16 on: Feb 25, 2006, 11:40:30 AM »
I disagree.  Surge brakes are generally a pain in the ass, and properly maintained electric brakes work fine.  Add in a quality brake controller like a prodigy, and you're set.  The prodigy and other quality controllers are not simply on and off controllers, and work way better than the old school ones. 

The surge brakes at uhaul are there so any vehicle can tow their trailer and still have brakes.  Electric brakes will be fine for most people, especially those of us who can maintain them ourselves.

Ryan

   I don't have to worry about the electric verus surge debate. I use air over hydralic.  :smack:   There are also electric brakes that simple apply when the brake lights come on( the on/off ),  :yikes:  guess what happens if the brake or tail light fuse blows.  :o

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #17 on: Feb 25, 2006, 04:54:38 PM »
 Good point....

A properly wired trailer brake controller will still activate the trailer brakes if the tow vehicles brake light circuit becomes inoperative...somethign to keep in mind when hooking up a brake controller.

Air over hydraulic?  Towing with a man-sized tow rig, I presume.  I wish! 

Anybody else think we could use a "Tow Rig and Trailer" section?

Ryan
'84 Hilux, locked, dual-cased, winched, EFI converted, 37" tired, half-doored (in the summer...)
'87 Supra, 400 HP.  smooth as glass at 130 'cause my tires are NEW!...
'92 F250 Diesel, tow rig, ATS Turbo, leveling kit, killer stereo

V-Man

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #18 on: Feb 25, 2006, 05:24:48 PM »
Good point....

A properly wired trailer brake controller will still activate the trailer brakes if the tow vehicles brake light circuit becomes inoperative...somethign to keep in mind when hooking up a brake controller.

Air over hydraulic?  Towing with a man-sized tow rig, I presume.  I wish! 

Anybody else think we could use a "Tow Rig and Trailer" section?

Ryan

   Thats not a bad idea. we all pull something at one time or another.. Though must of the tow rigs I run would be a little over the top. :thumbs:

Hyena [OP]

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #19 on: Feb 25, 2006, 07:07:37 PM »
It is $155 to add breaks to the second axle.  I am really thinking about it.  I don't want to get the 18 footer because of the weight it will add.  the trailer loaded with my truck will be about 5500-6000lbs.  The max for my GMC is 6500lbs.  I am trying to keep it as light as possible.  weld on d-rings are a good idea too. then i can put them where i want them.  thanx for the help guys.  also, what do you guys think i should go with?  the 76 inch wide one or the 82 inch wide one?

reklund5

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #20 on: Feb 25, 2006, 07:16:01 PM »
82 inch.  No question.

Ryan
'84 Hilux, locked, dual-cased, winched, EFI converted, 37" tired, half-doored (in the summer...)
'87 Supra, 400 HP.  smooth as glass at 130 'cause my tires are NEW!...
'92 F250 Diesel, tow rig, ATS Turbo, leveling kit, killer stereo

FatAzzRunner

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #21 on: Feb 25, 2006, 07:25:55 PM »
82.  You will not ALWAYS be needed by your friends to pull SKINNY ol' Yotas.

I have an 82 and I love it.  I also want to go full width eventually so that also helped in my decision.

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Hyena [OP]

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #22 on: Feb 25, 2006, 07:30:47 PM »
Ok.  so a 16x8 1/2 feet trailer with all the above stuff and dual brakes, bulldog coupler, and spare tire will be $2049.

reklund5

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #23 on: Feb 25, 2006, 09:04:46 PM »
Own it.  Invest in a quality coupler lock and a good chain/cable to run thru the wheels and around the springs when it's not in use.  Post up some pictures.

Ryan

'84 Hilux, locked, dual-cased, winched, EFI converted, 37" tired, half-doored (in the summer...)
'87 Supra, 400 HP.  smooth as glass at 130 'cause my tires are NEW!...
'92 F250 Diesel, tow rig, ATS Turbo, leveling kit, killer stereo

Shamb

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #24 on: Feb 26, 2006, 01:14:34 PM »
Quote
Has anyone heard of this company?  Has anyone seen a better price?  I think this is the trailer i will be getting shortly


I told you this is the exact trailer I bought, its a good trailer for the price, ive been dealing with Performance for years.

The trailer in your pic's is the exact same one I have, its $1805 out the door with tax, liceanse everything..

Not a bad deal, I say go for it

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Hyena [OP]

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #25 on: Feb 26, 2006, 07:19:24 PM »
my friend drives trucks or Cat and he says that the 2 5/16 hitch is better then the bulldog.  i don't know which one to get.

FatAzzRunner

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #26 on: Feb 26, 2006, 07:35:38 PM »
Thats just the size of the ball, bulldog is a STYLE of hitch.  You can get a 2 5/16 bulldog hitch and the same in a tow ball and yes, it is stronger than a 2"

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Hyena [OP]

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #27 on: Feb 26, 2006, 07:57:10 PM »
i know, but they don't offer a bulldog hitch bigger then 2 inch.  They either have the 2 5/16 regular hitch or the 2 inch bulldog.  i think i am going to just stick with the 2 5/16 hitch.

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #28 on: Feb 26, 2006, 08:12:01 PM »
only thing i dont care for is the weak brakes on the trailer, they'll somewhat hold but i'd prefer to have more braking power just in case.. im upgrading the brakes on the Tahoe because they suck ass right now.

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Re: Trailers
« Reply #29 on: Feb 26, 2006, 08:55:10 PM »
Either type of hitch will be fine for what you'll use it for.  The bulldog style just looks more secure to me for some reason...  Also, more folks have a 2" ball on their truck, so if for some reason you had to tow your trailer with someone elses rig, they might already be set up.  On the other hand, if you have the oddball sized coupler...it'll keep people from borrowing your trailer.  :eyebrow:   Just be sure to advise anyone who might ever hook up to your trailer that it uses the 2 5/16" size ball.  It'll pop right off of a 2"er for sure...

Ryan
'84 Hilux, locked, dual-cased, winched, EFI converted, 37" tired, half-doored (in the summer...)
'87 Supra, 400 HP.  smooth as glass at 130 'cause my tires are NEW!...
'92 F250 Diesel, tow rig, ATS Turbo, leveling kit, killer stereo

 
 
 
 
 

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