HELP!! Newb to CV's

[*FFC*]

There is an inner c-clip...you have to remove the third member to get at it.  Sorry 

[supermat]

Hahaha,
  You and BD better quite making fun of me soon, my truck may limp but at least it gets me down the road! Let me know if you've got any other questions... I can do a little bit more than cook. 

[reklund5]

FFC-

Heres what will fix your problem:                


On some of those that really suck to remove, you've gotta really wail on them with the prybar to get them out.  Did you happen to post on the isuzu forum on pirate to see if anyone can help you there?  I'm not at work, or I'd look it up on alldata for you and email the procedure to you...

Ryan

[*FFC*]

Hahaha,
  You and BD better quite making fun of me soon, my truck may limp but at least it gets me down the road! Let me know if you've got any other questions... I can do a little bit more than cook. 

BD makin fun of YOU??!!!!    WOW I thought I was the one that got all the fun poked at!!     


and hey my truck DOES get me down the road, not even limpin

ok ok, so you are good for a little advice in the kitchen                

FFC-

Heres what will fix your problem:


On some of those that really suck to remove, you've gotta really wail on them with the prybar to get them out. Did you happen to post on the isuzu forum on pirate to see if anyone can help you there? I'm not at work, or I'd look it up on alldata for you and email the procedure to you...

Ryan

Ryan, I'm tempted      but I can't hardly allow a halfshaft to get me down.  I did post it on Pirate, and I've got a reply or two, basically saying the same thing that CT said

Thank you fer yer input   

[BLACKDOG]

I still don't think you have to open the diff.  I think you're just not prying hard enough.  The 'yodas have a ring in a groove on the inside,but if you give your prybar a good push, it'll pop it right out. 


goodluck!!


Mat, I can make as much fun of you as I want, If I recall correctly, its my parts that keep your truck on the road.

[Willy Mammoth]

There is no groove in the shaft for a clip. Looks like it is just a tight fit in the bearing. Lots of force should get it out.


Do you have any fire crackers left? 

Two of these should do the trick.  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009UFJAW/qid=1136726004/ref=cl_tr_br_cl/103-3316794-0583869?n=553330&s=hi&v=glance

[wa4x4]

                    




In english that means SAS time!!

[*FFC*]

There is no groove in the shaft for a clip. Looks like it is just a tight fit in the bearing. Lots of force should get it out.


Do you have any fire crackers left? 

Two of these should do the trick.  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009UFJAW/qid=1136726004/ref=cl_tr_br_cl/103-3316794-0583869?n=553330&s=hi&v=glance

Mark, believe it or not that's the same thing my stepdad tried to use when he took a few prys at it 

[Willy Mammoth]

C4 or SAS If you do the C4 you gotta post some pictures, but I think the SAS will at least leave it drivable. 

[*FFC*]

C4 or SAS If you do the C4 you gotta post some pictures, but I think the SAS will at least leave it drivable. 

Hhmmm It's tempting.... The C4 that is..

As fer the SAS... I don't have the tools nor parts for an SAS...and I don't think I wanna go full widths So, I fix the IFS so that I can have a driver till I find a yota axle

[*FFC*]

Now you guys got me thinkin



I gotta find a detailed swap so I can see exactly what it takes to do a swap.... Oh yeah, and an axle somewhere ..............

[Rocksurfer]

This may help you, 

http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/Products/DriveTrain/Protech/Tech_Bulletins/PT%20148-60.pdf

Hope you have pdf.

[*FFC*]

This may help you, 

http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/Products/DriveTrain/Protech/Tech_Bulletins/PT%20148-60.pdf

Hope you have pdf.

PDF? My computer don't do nothin special

Is there any way to copy and paste it into an email or something that I can see on my slow dialup?

[Rocksurfer]

Shud-up I know it's big.

[Rocksurfer]

If the DOJ case does not require servicing, as is the case with outer CV-joint servicing or inner CV-joint overhaul, use this procedure. The halfshaft, with the exception of the DOJ case, can be removed without removing the entire front axle assembly.

If equipped with 4-wheel drive, shift the transfer case shift lever into 2H. Drive the vehicle a few feet forward and reverse to verify that the front axle is disengaged.

Set the front wheels and steering wheel in the straight-ahead position. Lock the steering column in this position, and remove the key.

Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels.

Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands.

Remove the front wheels and underside skid plate.

Remove the front brake calipers and caliper mounting brackets. Do not disconnect the brake line. Hang the brake calipers from a wire, do not allow the calipers to hang from the brake hoses. For more information, refer to Brakes .

Remove the locking hub assembly and rotors on both sides, as described earlier in this section.

If equipped with ABS, unbolt the front wheel sensor brackets from the steering knuckles. Move the sensors out of the work area. They do not need to be disconnected.

Use a ball joint separator tool to disconnect the upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends, and then remove the steering knuckles.

If necessary for added clearance, matchmark and disconnect the pitman arm and idler arm. Remove the steering linkage as an assembly.

Remove the inner CV-joint boot clamp, then slide the boot away from the joint. To remove the clamp, it may be necessary to pry the hooked end of the clamp up with a small prytool.

Remove the circlip from the DOJ case, then pull the halfshaft away from the DOJ case.

Remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.

To install:

If the halfshaft was not overhauled, clean the DOJ joint of all dirt and grease, then fill the inner boot and DOJ with 5.25 oz. (150g) new grease. Install the halfshaft into the DOJ case and install the circular clip into the groove so the open ends are positioned away from the ball groove.

Slide the boot onto the DOJ case, insert a tool under the boot lip to allow the pressure to equalize and tighten the new boot clamps. The boot should be installed so the edge of the smaller end is 6.5 in. (16.5cm) from the opposite edge of the DOJ case.

Install the steering knuckles and assemble any suspension components that were disconnected or removed.

Install the rotor and hub assemblies, as described earlier in this section.

Install the caliper mounting brackets and the brake calipers. For more information, refer to Brakes .

If necessary, install the steering linkage assembly.

If equipped, reconnect the ABS front wheel sensors.

Install the radiator skid plate. Tighten the bolts to 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm).

Install the transfer case skid plates and tighten their bolts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).

Install the front wheels.

Lower the vehicle, remove the rear wheel blocks and adjust the ride height.

If the steering linkage was removed, have the front wheel alignment checked by a reputable automotive technician.

If necessary, bleed the brake system.

Verify that the front axle and hubs engage and disengage properly.

Road test the vehicle.

[Rocksurfer]

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/18/6f/bc/0900823d80186fbc.jsp


You should know about this site didn't you work for autozone?

[*FFC*]

Ok RS Thank you...

#'s 6 and 8 concern me... the 2 snap rings on the inside of the axle This makes it sound so simple.... I'm runnin into town for a few then I'mma get on it and let you guys know how it goes..... Meanwhile, a torch is sounding more and more inviting

[Rocksurfer]

The only bad thing if you follow that link was if you are removing the DOJ case then it gets ugly.

[79coyotefrg]

if she goes that far she might as well SAS


FFC  i have a empty housing, with knuckles and spindles, email me

[79coyotefrg]

although i bet you caN find one local for cheaper than $100,  at least you 'd think

[*FFC*]

Glen, Emailed you

the DOJ?

[79coyotefrg]

the DOJ  is that plate i told you not to pry on   apparently that plate has to come off,  do you need that replaced,  can you just replace the other part of the shaft???

[79coyotefrg]

better yet, take that shaft back and get your money back and get that front axle from

[*FFC*]

better yet, take that shaft back and get your money back and get that front axle from

I like that idea better..... but couldn't talk bout it right then... waiting for to get back online so I can talk to him.

My stepdad is gettin upset cuz the Migo's been on jacks since the day before yesterday I don't know how long I can keep it immobile

[*FFC*]

This is what's gotta happen....

Found this on an Isuzu site... guess I'm pullin the front end on the Migo.... In order to get all that out I have to pull the A-arm

[79coyotefrg]

  ok  why do you need a new shaft

[*FFC*]

Uhmmmm.... that's not my setup.  I haven't got that far yet.  I just found that on a writeup on a Isuzu site... I already got the whole axle so I thought I may as well replace the whole thing

[79coyotefrg]

but for the work you gotta do  just go SAS

[Willy Mammoth]

OH the stupidity  Why in the hell did they make it like that   

Can you just separate the inner joint and leave the outer part of the inner joint there? I would hope they didn't machine the ball races and use larger balls. 

What side is your front driveshaft on?   

[79coyotefrg]

they made it that way so when your brought it to the dealer for replacement they could charge you $5000  to replace a $50 part