Author Topic: The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread (Read 911237 times)

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1260 on:** Dec 26, 2014, 08:33:00 AM »

How do the sides of the 22RE isolators and Tacoma isolators compare? IE - can the 22RE isolators be used to further correct these mounts?

I'm sure that the transfer case puts some uneven weight distribution, but I've been under these trucks for years and I've never seen transmission mounts that are all jacked up like the on you posted.

RyanV · « **Reply #1261 on:** Dec 26, 2014, 09:50:17 AM »

I sold my new 22re mounts so I don't have any to compare, but I'd like to try new 22re mounts though to see how they look. New OEM 22re mounts are $180 nowadays because they only sell with the brackets $That\'s Gay$

This is as good as we've been able to get it.

tacoma mount passenger side 4 washers we're thinking about an .5" alum shim under the mount instead of the washers

tacoma mount driver side without shield

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1262 on:** Dec 26, 2014, 09:58:23 AM »

OK. I'll measure the 22RE mounts against the 2RZ/3rz (2003 Tacoma) when they come in. 22RE mounts are new:
22re mounts are 2" from the back side to the top (no cover plate).

Chilkat / Alex / Tungsten ? has gotten back with us and is checking current mounts against previous versions, so we'll figure out of something changed over time or if something else is going on... I'm done with tthe mounting part for a while until the 2rz mount comes in.. In the mean time, like Ryan, I've been trying to come up with the right combination of shims to make this thing work (if possible). It may come down to cutting the up or re-fabricating - hopefully we'll get something fixed up on the existing mounts...

acreves · « **Reply #1263 on:** Dec 30, 2014, 04:31:15 PM »

I have Chilkats motor mounts that I purchased several years ago that also caused the motor to twist towards the passenger side as well. Unlike the pictures above I run a HD trans mount and GM transmission mounts in place of the motor mounts. It took forever for me to get everything to bolt up.

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1264 on:** Jan 01, 2015, 03:44:43 PM »

acreves,
Did you let Alex (Chilkat) know? I see the twist on those, but it's not as bad as what we're running into.

I asked for an ETA on how long it would take to compare to some of his prior stuff- I've heard nothing back yet.... I'd just like to know if I need to cut these things up myself or if they'll be adjusted in the near future.. It may be a moot point if they've always been off this way.

acreves · « **Reply #1265 on:** Jan 01, 2015, 07:53:39 PM »

I did not let them know. I bought these mounts almost 2 years ago. If you were to put a level on my powersteering cap it would look identical to the picture above. The solid mounts don't show the twist like a soft rubber one does. I can't even bolt the second T-case to a sock mount because the holes are so far off. I tried the 2rz and 22re mounts while bolting the motor in. Both did not corect the twist.

GRW · « **Reply #1266 on:** Jan 02, 2015, 12:48:58 AM »

I did a search but did Not come up with a part number for the correct dip stick.
I have the stock Tacoma one and it is to long.
I seemed to have the rest of the parts right except that one (at least that is the way it's looking).

Nation · « **Reply #1267 on:** Jan 02, 2015, 06:54:32 AM »

I purchased my mounts last decemberish.... the x member mount was a touch hi on the p side if I remember correctly. I Didn't Get All Crazy About it. I looked at what needed to be done. I left all of the nuts and bolts that hold the motor down loose and used a pry bar to get it into a good position and tightened the motor mounts down. If you don't already have one, a bud built x member that uses u bolts to connect to the frame will do you quite well. IT HAS A Ton Of Flex AND WILL Compensate FOR THE MOTOR Being A Little off. I'm also gonna throw out there that I didn't see it to be that big of an issue at all... you guys still have options... SHIM THE MOTOR MOUNTS, WASHERS, BUD BUILT X MEMBER, PRY BARS, go wheeling already! Been driving mine around with the same mounts for a year.

Nation · « **Reply #1268 on:** Jan 02, 2015, 06:58:44 AM »

Quote from: GRW on Jan 02, 2015, 12:48:58 AM

I did a search but did Not come up with a part number for the correct dip stick.
I have the stock Tacoma one and it is to long.
I seemed to have the rest of the parts right except that one (at least that is the way it's looking).

I never swapped dipstick lol. I just cut the one on the front of the motor to fit. Filled it with proper amount of oil and marked the stick where the full point was.. bam..

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1269 on:** Jan 02, 2015, 07:53:30 AM »

Nation, As I haven't gotten an ETA for when Chilkat would be able to check the jig, I'm working on them. I'm not getting crazy about it, but generally when you buy a part, you'd expect it to work... IF they were advertised as "may require some adjustment" - etc, then this sort of thing would be fine. Getting crazy about it would be charging them back immediately. Most of the discussion here is about figuring out if there was an issue with prior mount sets (maybe ours were just off) and then how to resolve it. Hopefully it'll at least help people in the future.

Reporting it back to Chilkat also helps him build a better product. If "almost" fab is OK, I've got a bunch of parts in the shop to sell ya... I'm happy to give him some more time, but I think other people buying these things would want to know. I could have built my own mounts in the amount of time and money I've spent messing with these. And I spent the money to save the time. If it gets fixed, I'll remove any trace of ever having an issue. He's a good fabricator and these are minor issues that may mean recalling a few parts or offering adjustments.

I'm currently plating the passenger side motor mount and will have to re-cut the Chilkat mount or re-drill it to move the isolator down and get the motor towards level. I've bought the Tacoma isolators to see if they'll make a difference - they don't. I've seen two ways to do the mounts using the stock parts and some plate. I could have built them in less time and saved my self the money on the Chilkat mounts as well as various isolators.

And I'm reasonable... Sometimes you've got to get out the pry bar when installing motors with new mounts (or old mounts) - but the amount of deflection here isn't OK..... Minor "not level" - I can live with that too, but that's not what I had.

I love those bud-built crossmembers - great pieces.. Way better than stock and bring the whole thing up inches. I haven't installed one on this "non-trail" truck... Not yet... If that makes the transmission install easier, I may do that...

I've have the mounts cut up today and then I'm just waiting on the pan to get this thing in... Had to rebuild the down-pipe too, a bit too close to the firewall for my tastes.. Photos later.

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1270 on:** Jan 02, 2015, 11:34:13 AM »

So my original downpipe was too close to the firewall. Modification with a BFH did not leave me satisfied:

So, I fabbed a "shorter" one.. Note, I'm doing this without special tools, just a metal cut-off saw, 4.5" grinder with cutting disc, and some pre-bend sections of 1" (38mm for wastegate) and 2.5" for exhaust:

If you're going to build one, I say make it as short as possible (towards the firewall).

Also, I found that there was no difference between the 2rz and 22RE isolators, at least passenger size... So don't waste your money (like I did) trying to adjust the motor in the Chilkat mounts for height using different isolators. I think the differences in Tacoma mounts that RyanV showed above may be from settling, not 100% sure.

Nation · « **Reply #1271 on:** Jan 02, 2015, 07:34:45 PM »

Yeah sorry if I came off as a Di$#.. I JUST WANNA SEE YALL GET ER DONE AND GO WHEELING. On a side note we probably have a different situation here. My situation wasn't too hard to deal with. I bought the Chilkat mounts last december. They were off for the record and it shows by how much in my build thread. With the beating and leaving things loose and pry bar action I got er done.. i didnt think it was too big of a deal..but that's all it took for my situation. We probably are dealing with different angles here. I spoke with Alex about it when I first noticed the gap on the x member mount. I'm not quoting him or speaking on behalf of chilkat, but from what I have gathered, shimming the appropriate mount is the way to go.

onemanarmy · « **Reply #1272 on:** Jan 06, 2015, 07:27:13 PM »

hope its ok to post this here....I've got a 85 4runner that has a 3rz swap.....1999 model 3rz I believe (well it is a dual coil either way)

Seems like a clean swap.......but I'm going through to see if there are any loose ends

Bought this a few months ago....

Engine...

And this E fan setup, but it has a mind of its own......looks to be a kit that was bought, but have never seen anything like it....anyone recognize it? Once the engine gets up to temp, the fans cut on for a few seconds and then go off for 30 seconds and then repeat....but no overheating that I can tell....

Also, how can I tell what AC compressor I have? Not sure what was used in the swap. The AC works, but I think there is a leak somewhere, gotta check into that.

Anyone use an enclosed air filter box with the swap? I'm not a fan of the open element filters.

Thanks

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1273 on:** Jan 07, 2015, 07:46:34 AM »

Post a photo of the compressor. We can identify it. Or measure it tip to tail.

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1274 on:** Jan 10, 2015, 08:10:27 AM »

Splices are a little sketcy... On the electric fan setups, it's always the relay or thermostat that killed mine. This setup maybe OK there.

GRW · « **Reply #1275 on:** Jan 10, 2015, 09:31:15 AM »

Mine started for the first time yesterday

It was put on hold a few times (lotsa projects/irons in the fire).
I tried to go over everything a couple times and I still need to do the exhaust.
I do have a couple lights that are on....... Gotta figure that out (batt & chrg lights).
The chrg meter is working and showing that it is charging.
It was late so I called it a night, I will be hooking up the code reader today and see what it says.
I know I still have to put the 2nd O2 sensor in.
I still have to put a few things back together inside the cab.

GRW · « **Reply #1276 on:** Jan 10, 2015, 02:39:47 PM »

So does the 3RZ have a place to set the cold idle? Kind of like the one on 22RE, mine is out of a 96 Taco.
After a few minutes it idles fine, but those first few $I\'m Down$ not so well.
I had an issue with the throttle cable and I believe I have that one worked out.
The code reader did not show any codes, I figured it would with the 2nd O2 sensor just hanging at the back of the open exhaust.
Now I am going to take a look at the exhaust and see what will fit without hanging down to far and not be to load.
My 2 stage set up for the 22RE was to load (pipe comes out behind the driver).
But all in all

she's alive after all that down time.

Now we're is the snow???

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1277 on:** Jan 11, 2015, 06:30:21 PM »

I haven't really read the Tacoma FSM, so take this for what it's worth:
1) The motor should self adjust using the IAC.. I think. I read that the source of the IAC air must be "metered" - meaning after the AFM, but my TB setup looks like the source of air is just in front of the butterfly on the TB.
2) There is an adjustable stop on the TB assembly - look for the vacuum arm think on the TB. There is a set screw and nut.
3) No manual "air bleed" screw like on the 22RE - ECU should set the base idle.

GRW · « **Reply #1278 on:** Jan 12, 2015, 05:13:47 AM »

I adjusted the set screw (idle) with the code reader attached, not sure I gained much.
It's just when you try and start it, fires and dies unless you give it a little pedal.
After 1-2 minutes she idles fine, just the start and initial idle. Once she is running no issues.
What is the best source for a manual (96 Tacoma) only need the motor information?

Thanks

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1279 on:** Jan 12, 2015, 06:17:53 AM »

I would say that something is wrong with your IAC setup. I assume it's connected. The way I think it works, is that the middle pin of the connector has +12v and the ECU then grounds one of the two outer pins to either lower idle or speed idle up. I'd start with testing the IAC. Autozone has a how-to on testing it.

I don't have the FSM procedure for testing the IAC. I know that it's pulse width modulated.

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1280 on:** Jan 12, 2015, 07:05:19 PM »

I've linked a tentative diagram for wiring Megasquirt (in particular MS3x) into a twin-coil 2rz or 3rz. I'd post it, but it may not remain static.
There is some minor magic particular to the 1985-1988.5 truck and 4runner for powering up megasquirt and controlling the fuel pump, but this is easily adapted
I've also assumed wideband use.

It shows DIYAutotune colors for the megasquirt harness and shows factory 2000 2RZ colors on the engine harness.

Figuring out how to wire megasquirt is a challenge, so I hope this takes some of they mystery out

This setup should produce:

Sequential Injection based off cam and crank position
Wasted Spark (just like the factory)
Control of the factory IAC valve
Full fuel and timing control, basic to Megasquirt

Diagram:
http://www.2rzturbo.net/?page_id=613

onemanarmy · « **Reply #1281 on:** Jan 20, 2015, 12:45:37 PM »

Quote from: liveoak on Jan 10, 2015, 07:21:49 AM

Looks like a homemade shroud to me. I would not expect those butt splices on the fan wiring to be very reliable. You may want to put a 22r/e fan and shroud on there or check some other builds in regards to how they did their electric fans. Otherwise nice truck. Also in regards to the air filter box, it is easiest to use the 3.4 box as its shallow enough to fit where the original battery sat.

I'll look into the AC compressor.

Thanks for the info on the 3.4 air box.

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1282 on:** Jan 25, 2015, 08:22:36 AM »

I used the pan from NW Team Yota. A few install tips tricks:

1) You need to remove the drivers side transmission support "wing" from the motor before the pan will fit.
2) Test fit the pan. Mine required "adjustment" on a few of the mounting holes.
3) I had to clearance the drivers side transmission support wing to get it to go back on. Photo below.
4) There is a transmission bolt that goes through the support wing. It's the bolt that goes through, not the bolt that treads on to the wing. This bolt MUST be installed prior to bolting up the transmission and pan, otherwise there is no way to get it in. That is you'll be stabbing the transmission and tightening this bolt at the same time. Unfortunately, I don't have a photo.
5) Check the fitting of the oil pickup where it goes into the front cover on the 2rz. It's been reported that this may not seal correctly. This is a big deal, as you otherwise won't be pulling oil from the pan.

GRW · « **Reply #1283 on:** Feb 02, 2015, 01:41:52 PM »

So I figured out the chrg & Batt light issue.
I had one wire in the wrong place.

Now I am getting a real high idle and it will not kick down if you tap the throttle (just goes higher).
It's not the stuck cable either, its the assy/linkage that the cable hooks to (stiff and will not turn).
It did not do this until I fixed the wire (above).
It sticks, I have not had time to let it fully warm up to see if it drops or not.
Need to test the IAC but dont' have the readings to compare it to (96 TACO 2.7).
If I get time tonight I will do some testing.

On the bright side no more idiot lights.....

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1284 on:** Feb 05, 2015, 10:46:31 AM »

You can manually operate the IAC valve with a 12v source.
Google "IAC test tacoma". I'd close it, leave it disconnected, and see if that solves the high idle. If not - suspect vac leak.
If so, reconnect it and see what happens.

GRW · « **Reply #1285 on:** Feb 06, 2015, 05:51:41 AM »

Quote from: dcg9381 on Feb 05, 2015, 10:46:31 AM

You can manually operate the IAC valve with a 12v source.
Google "IAC test tacoma". I'd close it, leave it disconnected, and see if that solves the high idle. If not - suspect vac leak.
If so, reconnect it and see what happens.

I will try that today (this weekend) after I get my shops new lights up and wired.
Between that, work and my son's Eagle project I have had very little time to look at the truck.
I know I unhooked the plug but it is still stuck at this point.
Thanks fo the input.

I have a second question, this one is on the linkage.
Someone said "Don't use WD40 on it" ... I read that the day after I gave it a squirt.
This is just on the outside linkage, does anyone know of ill effects from the WD?
I may be pulling it completely off and giving it a good cleaning and reasseble.
I ran into another write up about linkage wear and adding a washer to acomidate it.
But that is getting ahead of myself, I won't know till I get a closer look.

Thanks for the help

GRW · « **Reply #1286 on:** Feb 07, 2015, 01:36:25 PM »

99.999% sure I have her fixed, running great.
Warm up idle, idles down as she warms up.
I will know for sure by the end of the week.

dcg9381 · « **Reply #1287 on:** Feb 11, 2015, 12:47:10 PM »

What'd you do to get her fixed?

GRW · « **Reply #1288 on:** Feb 12, 2015, 06:05:18 AM »

Pulled the rag out that I stuffed in to keep dust and dirt out of the intake

Glad it was a big rag and did not get sucked in, not sure I can blame it on old age or just taking to long to get it up and running again.

Nation · « **Reply #1289 on:** Feb 12, 2015, 10:56:06 AM »

just some fun stuff to look at. I took my Runner down to the Dyno today.. 3RZ @4.55lbs boost, 5:29s, R151 trans, 3rd gear pull. Made 165.5 HP and 197.98 LB FT TQ to the Wheels with 35s and dual Ts. The tech said if he could have done the pull in 4th 1:1 I would have seen higher numbers. He said he heard pinging when he tried fourth. I couldnt hear anything.

Related Topics