Author Topic: Basic Body Lift: info needed (Read 4868 times)

Morpheine · « **on:** Nov 15, 2005, 10:28:13 PM »

WHOOOO!!!

So, I'm now going to look to doing just a simple body lift for the time being to clear some tires.

I'm completely strapped as far as money goes, so that's why the simple dirty, ....far less desireable body lift is in order.

NOW, ....how do I do it? I know the basics, ...but if I was to machine my own bits and such...which way does everyone figure is the best.

The whole point of me asking is because I know I'll get some majorly differing views, and I don't just want the info I've gotten from a few sites to be all i go by. I want the full picture, of course.

I saw one guy go with some alluminum disks he machined. I liked it, but it was only for a 1" or so bump-up.

I found a pic with a 4" body lift only, and it was alright....quite honestly, for now I'm looking to make my Runner LOOK better than it really is.

So, if I can get it to look as close to this as possible that'd be perfect. It's the pic I have on this post just below.

So, ...I'm looking to about a 4" climb on my baby. I also wanted to ask about some cheap home made ways to level it out, as it has the classic 'dog-with-tail-between-it's-legs' back end scoot look.

I'll throw a pic of my 4runner up tomorrow.

So, any takers on ideas?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #1 on:** Nov 15, 2005, 10:42:12 PM »

anything over a 3" bodylift is jsut stupid.... and highly illegal...... yes you live in CAN but they have laws similar to the US DOT

www.4crawler.com you could make your own, but personally i wouldnt trust it... you can buy a whole kit that is awesome for pretty cheap from there... and htye have awesome info.... roger is local to me, and has done a lot of custom stuff with me, he is a wealth of info too, and very cool @ working with you....

derek · « **Reply #2 on:** Nov 16, 2005, 06:39:59 AM »

i wouldnt go over a 2" body lift.
you basicaly undo one side at a time, jack up the body and bolt the new pucks in.
roger brown makes a nice kit that is worth the extra cash for.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml

derek

whiteman · « **Reply #3 on:** Nov 16, 2005, 09:40:48 AM »

I dont have much experience with installing body lift but its pretty basic.

My advice is buy a quality kit, My buddy had a 3: body on his 86 pickup and last winter he got into some ice and slid out into the ditch, he was going like 10-15mph and the bolts for the body lift bent and his cab shifted forward and to the rigth about an inch both ways.
I personaly will never do a body lift but thats me. I can under stand the money situation so do what you must. I wont hold it against you.

Just my

bmxanddie · « **Reply #4 on:** Nov 16, 2005, 10:33:03 PM »

i have a 4cralwer 2" and. the blocks are much wider and of a higher quality then the crappy other ones. If you wanna level the back out you could make some longer shackles and maybe lift it an inch or so.

whiteman · « **Reply #5 on:** Nov 17, 2005, 12:41:00 AM »

What size of tires do you want to run? You could crank the torsion bars and do and "add a leaf" in the back and get away with 33's.

yotatilla · « **Reply #6 on:** Nov 17, 2005, 06:22:56 AM »

As the other guys said, the body lift isnt that hard, but I wouldnt do it. My 2 cents, but there are MUCH better ways to spend a hundred bucks on your truck. I would agree with whiteman here, I would get an add a leaf or a set of blocks for the rear and just start crankin on the bars for the front. I ran 34's with no lift what so ever, and I even had the saggin rear end. I put a set of lift springs out back, and that took care of that. I bought them used, for $50. Body lifts are pretty sketchy here in Massachusetts when it comes to the law. I have seen paople use hockey pucks between the bidy mounts, then I have seen them get a fine of $100 per hockey puck by a statie. If you plan on doing it, make sure that you get one that is not the universal type. Get one specifically for your truck, as it will come with bumper brackets, skirts for the sides and all that jazz. I'll throw a pic of my truck pre-lift and after I put the lift out back and didn't touch the front. Good luck, Sam.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #7 on:** Nov 17, 2005, 08:11:49 AM »

Quote from: Morpheine on Nov 15, 2005, 10:28:13 PM

WHOOOO!!!

So, I'm now going to look to doing just a simple body lift for the time being to clear some tires.
I'm completely strapped as far as money goes, so that's why the simple dirty, ....far less desireable body lift is in order.

NOW, ....how do I do it? I know the basics, ...but if I was to machine my own bits and such...which way does everyone figure is the best.

The whole point of me asking is because I know I'll get some majorly differing views, and I don't just want the info I've gotten from a few sites to be all i go by. I want the full picture, of course.

I saw one guy go with some alluminum disks he machined. I liked it, but it was only for a 1" or so bump-up.

I found a pic with a 4" body lift only, and it was alright....quite honestly, for now I'm looking to make my Runner LOOK better than it really is.
So, if I can get it to look as close to this as possible that'd be perfect. It's the pic I have on this post just below.

So, ...I'm looking to about a 4" climb on my baby. I also wanted to ask about some cheap home made ways to level it out, as it has the classic 'dog-with-tail-between-it's-legs' back end scoot look.
I'll throw a pic of my 4runner up tomorrow.

So, any takers on ideas?

if you make your own body lift use some 4 inch square blocks and weld the bottom of the block to the frame mount, other wise you will be putting yourself in danger

also if i were you i'd lift my drivetrain, just use a piece of 3/8 plate and cut the needed holes for a tcase crossmember and then cut and reweld the engine mounts,

i wouldnt lift the body more than 3 inches, and get some S10 chevy leafs for add a leafs in the rear,
this with some fender trimming you could fit 35's,

Morpheine · « **Reply #8 on:** Nov 18, 2005, 04:25:30 AM »

Well, the desire is to be able to throw these 35's under there.

The chevy S10 leaves, eh? any others that work? also....maybe a dumb question, but am I looking for a specific set of years for that?

So, then to really get into this. I'm looking to get going on a 3RZ swap later in the new year, and I know Bigmike was helped out by a 1" lift as far as engine placement goes. Well, I was looking to do this lift before I start on the engine so I have no problems leter with where I SHOULD have mounted the engine, etc.

So, maybe I'll only go with a 2"...maybe only 1" ..I'm tossing it over in my mind, but the way i see it, for now...with little off road use...trail head running is about all i'll be doing for a while (yes, I'm a big backpacker too) I think a big'ish body lift won't hurt for a bit....then as money get's better, I'll tame it down, and get a proper suspension lift.

one thing about torsions in front....lift that way, that is....I've been of the knowledge that that could really screw them, and they'd more than easilly break, at the most inoportune time...

this true?

I've worked with pathfinders before, and I know this is the case with them, if it's a stock setup...usually the aftermarket stuff's fine
maybe it's not the case with Toyota's...but I'd need some insight on that.

as for the drivetrain.....probably something I'd want to do for this swap too, anyways...but I don't know JACK about that sortta thing. Any small info you want to gimme, or is there some site you can direct me to?

DAMN.....sorry ....I'll get that pic of my truck up there soon. Maybe everyone can do a "Designer Guy" b%tch sesion on what I should do for my truck when you can see howit looks

. ....well, just in a manly way..

...

VERY manly way....

sorry....I'll never say that agin.... $That\'s Gay$

ANYWAYS!!!!.....I'll get back to you soon...

and I thought it might just be a case of shackles in the back, ....but the leafs are looking REALLY flat.....

-Morpheine

brainlessfool · « **Reply #9 on:** Nov 18, 2005, 07:05:58 AM »

I would not go more than an 1" with a body lift. just not how the factory wanted it held on.

If $$ is a problem you'd be better off waiting untill you have the $$ to do a SAS and be safer about it.

unclejpl4x4 · « **Reply #10 on:** Nov 18, 2005, 08:45:26 AM »

ya i say 1-2" body( if you don't wana wait) and then save for a suspention lift you don't need a SAS unles your realy realy gona use the truck for big rocks/ 90% woods 10% road but thats me. IF your going for looks and the once in a while dirt road / mall p-lot crawling just get a ifs lift.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #11 on:** Nov 18, 2005, 03:56:33 PM »

i have a 3" body lift on my truck... and beat the crap out of my truck... and it shows no sign of problems.... i was also hit by an f150 supercrew doign 80 when i was doing 40.... the frame of my truck bent, the bodylift and bodymounts had no problems though....

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #12 on:** Nov 18, 2005, 05:42:03 PM »

Quote from: Morpheine on Nov 18, 2005, 04:25:30 AM

Well, the desire is to be able to throw these 35's under there.

The chevy S10 leaves, eh? any others that work? also....maybe a dumb question, but am I looking for a specific set of years for that?

So, then to really get into this. I'm looking to get going on a 3RZ swap later in the new year, and I know Bigmike was helped out by a 1" lift as far as engine placement goes. Well, I was looking to do this lift before I start on the engine so I have no problems leter with where I SHOULD have mounted the engine, etc.

So, maybe I'll only go with a 2"...maybe only 1" ..I'm tossing it over in my mind, but the way i see it, for now...with little off road use...trail head running is about all i'll be doing for a while (yes, I'm a big backpacker too) I think a big'ish body lift won't hurt for a bit....then as money get's better, I'll tame it down, and get a proper suspension lift.

one thing about torsions in front....lift that way, that is....I've been of the knowledge that that could really screw them, and they'd more than easilly break, at the most inoportune time...

this true?

I've worked with pathfinders before, and I know this is the case with them, if it's a stock setup...usually the aftermarket stuff's fine
maybe it's not the case with Toyota's...but I'd need some insight on that.

as for the drivetrain.....probably something I'd want to do for this swap too, anyways...but I don't know JACK about that sortta thing. Any small info you want to gimme, or is there some site you can direct me to?

DAMN.....sorry ....I'll get that pic of my truck up there soon. Maybe everyone can do a "Designer Guy" b%tch sesion on what I should do for my truck when you can see howit looks . ....well, just in a manly way.. ...
VERY manly way....
sorry....I'll never say that agin.... $That\'s Gay$

ANYWAYS!!!!.....I'll get back to you soon...

and I thought it might just be a case of shackles in the back, ....but the leafs are looking REALLY flat.....

-Morpheine

if you run some fat 33's you could get away with the ifs and a 2 inch body lift, but make sure its welded at the bottom,

if your set on 35's you would be way happier with a solid axle swap, you can do the SAS with a little more work than putting on the ifs lift and have WAY better offroad capabilities

now if its a daily driver and your in the city, i would go with the body lift and 33's

the S10's i used were w 3leaf set from a 90 model 2wd i have heard someone say they used a toy 2wd spring pack,

the 2wd has more arch

if doing the S10 springs you mix them in with your toy pack it sounds hard but its a piece of cake, if you can change spark plugs you can build a set of springs

DTB · « **Reply #13 on:** Nov 18, 2005, 06:29:07 PM »

to fit 33's, i would go with longer shackles, 2" body lift and heavy-duty torsion bars. personally, I would save up some $$$ and do a proper lift. Sounds like a SAS is probably too expensive and maybe too extreme for what you use the truck for. Make sure you replace the torsion bars tho...Downey makes good 26mm bars that are not terribly pre-loaded (like stock bars) when cranked. Stock bars can snap and will give you a harsh ride. Hope this helps!!

yotaboy79 · « **Reply #14 on:** Nov 22, 2005, 09:29:50 PM »

just get the sawsall out and make the tires fit $Beer Chug\'n$

Morpheine · « **Reply #15 on:** Nov 24, 2005, 08:16:37 AM »

I figure now that 33's will do JUST fine.....dunno why I wanted more (...girls?!?!)

Soooo....chevy springs...and 2 inch body lift will do for me.

we'll have a few questions later about making my spring pack when I get my hands on some, ...but, would I need to do any shackle swapping, or just use the same ones from my truck?
also, this fix with crankin on my torsions (sound almost wrong!...y'know?) chevy spring add's will lift AND level out my truck well enough?, or is there something else I have to do, cause this will ONLY lift it?

that's why I'm asking if I'd need shackles....and then I guess I could go with blocks if not something else.

and, since I'm looking to a 3RZ swap, that's why I'd want to do a 2 inch body lift anyways, aswell.

-Morpheine

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #16 on:** Nov 24, 2005, 09:00:57 AM »

yea the S10 leafs you add will give you lift and should be enough to level the truck some slightly lobger shackles wont hurt , crank you torsion bars a little but not all the way, just make sure the front sits level, and the 2 inch body lift will put you just right

jimbo74 · « **Reply #17 on:** Nov 24, 2005, 09:01:31 AM »

get some balljoint spacers from www.sdori.com then you dont need to crank the torsion bars..... or you can, and have even more lift.....

unclejpl4x4 · « **Reply #18 on:** Nov 26, 2005, 07:27:16 AM »

thats just :sicK: jim lol I just got a set of ball nads hmmmmm na

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #19 on:** Nov 26, 2005, 07:53:28 AM »

Quote from: jimbo74 on Nov 24, 2005, 09:01:31 AM

get some balljoint spacers from www.sdori.com then you dont need to crank the torsion bars..... or you can, and have even more lift.....

.....Dang another of my works million $ ideas stolen, we made spacers just like that and put them on the IFS trucks my brothers and I had, befored there were sas conversions to get a little more down travel.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #20 on:** Nov 26, 2005, 10:53:11 AM »

rs, if you check out there site, i helped that company develop the balljoint spacer lift for the 4x2 toyotas like mine... i have the first preproducttion set.... and i modified them a little bit.....

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #21 on:** Nov 26, 2005, 11:12:14 AM »

Quote from: jimbo74 on Nov 26, 2005, 10:53:11 AM

rs, if you check out there site, i helped that company develop the balljoint spacer lift for the 4x2 toyotas like mine... i have the first preproducttion set.... and i modified them a little bit.....

So you stole my idea!!!

You'll be hearing from my attorney's

We fabbed up a set almost like what you did worked pretty good for such a limited travel vehicle. They were/are on the black 4Runner in my sigline banner

jimbo74 · « **Reply #22 on:** Nov 26, 2005, 11:24:04 AM »

actually sdori has patents pending, so you stole their idea...... and i was working with them as the company, so im off the hook for anything.

lol ........

they have been around quite awhile, and are well established in the toyta market.... because i saw their 4x4 spacers, that made me think about the 4x2 ones, and i worked with them and we designed one for my application.....

91 super yoda · « **Reply #23 on:** Nov 26, 2005, 04:34:50 PM »

you really shouldnt even have to crank your torsions or replace them, ive got a 2" body lift and im settin on my second set of 33's, i had the back sag also, i went to advanced auto parts and they had some solid cast iron 2" blocks to level the rear, i also went ahead and did a U-bolt flip, marlin sells the kit but i also made my own out of some 5/16" plate with a hot wrench and got a set of shock mounts off of ebay. your project sounds just like me 2 years ago, currently i am a few parts away from being down with my SAS, cant wait and it will be ready for gilmer in Januar

with the 33's the rubbing was very minimal, they would only rub if i was turned full lock and hit a bump, other than that they were good to go.

Morpheine · « **Reply #24 on:** Nov 27, 2005, 09:55:15 PM »

Again, the leafs (leaves?) are looking pretty sad, so add a leaf is it, I'm sure. Plus, I'm not sure I'm so down with the block idea. Been told it's not the best way to go.

As for bolt flip...forgot about that....if I'm under there anyways...might aswell do so. ...just as simple as weld on mounts and fabbing a plate?

-Morpheine

91 super yoda · « **Reply #25 on:** Nov 28, 2005, 08:49:30 AM »

you also have to get a set of round ubolts, the stock square ones wont work, mine came with the blocks, but if your not going that way im sure you can find them indufidually at a parts store. if you do go to blocks jus stay away from the aluminum ones. the cast iron ones that i found have been in the same spot for almost 2 years and have never had a problem no matter where or how i drive it

yotabj · « **Reply #26 on:** Nov 29, 2005, 07:13:59 AM »

i had 35x15.5 on my 89 with a 3 inch with cranked torsionbars on mine and when i rolled it the body mounts bent but not the body bolts here's the deal tho...Bigger than 33's you have no power(well even with 31's you don't have any power)if you crank the torsion bar it rides like a log truck...I would just put 33's on and a 2 body lift and trim if nessary

Oddmar · « **Reply #27 on:** Dec 09, 2005, 09:24:29 PM »

This is what i did for Real Cheap on my '84 XtraCab. Just welded pipe onto the frame, welded washers on one end of the pipe first, and used longer bolts. It doesn't shift around at all...i used the original rubber bushings.

Morpheine [OP]

Morpheine [OP]

Morpheine [OP]

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