4RnrRick is getting a 7M-GE / 7MGE Motor swap

[4RnrRick]

I thought about that but the cressida oil pump and hard line that I curerntly have won't fit in the supra oil pan because it hangs down so low.... I just need a Supra oil pump to start with. plus I hate tweaking stuff around like that when there is new parts that would fit right the first time.  Plus I hate the idea of welding onto a oil pump....

[4RnrRick]

First, I heard that the wrecking yard has found a couple of oil pumps that they are going to get pulled and checked out for me. So that will save me a bunch of money because a oil pump for a Supra is like $230 and then I'd have to buy about another $50 of stuff from the dealer for the hardline. The wrecking yard said that the price would be around $40-$50.... If I don't like the condition of the oil pumps, I guess I will just have to buy new.....

Well I worked on the wiring some more tonight. I finally traced all the wires out of the engine harness, ECU, Starter relay, Fuel Pump Relay & Circuit Opening relay. This is everything that I got rid of so far!



And here is the pile of tape I unwrapped.....



And now this harness is looking more manageable. But there is still a lot of wires that I don't need that I'm weeding through one at a time. I figure just take it slow and steady and don't eliminate anything until I know I don't need it.

[TrackVino]

WOW, that is a lot of wires. Cant wait to see this thing done. 

[4RnrRick]

Well the wrecking yard couldn't find a good oil pump locally so I told them to forget about it and I bought a new one off of Ebay for $85.25....

Then I called up Toyota and bought a new hardline, banjo gasket, and compression sleeve for a 1989 Supra 7M-GE since those are the only other parts that are not idnetical from the 1989 Cressida that I need for the oil pan conversion. So by the end of next week, I should hopefully have those parts.

Now for some Tech....The 22RE and the 7M AFM have the same bolt pattern on them for the filter charger adapter. But the 22RE has a smaller square in the middle. So I took my old adapter and had the hole in the middle enlarged to the size required for the 7M which was 9/16" bigger... Thats going to let a lot more air into this motor... BTW I know I need to clean the Filter.....



I also went and bought a label maker so I could make nice labels for the wiring harness. My plan is to just wrap them up in the harness so if I ever have any issues down the road it won't be such a nightmare to figure out. I also eliminated another 13 wires and still got more to go!

[4RnrRick]

Well I got the wiring harness all figured out (I think)! So I figured I better do a write-up now that its fresh in my head. I don't have it connected to the 4runner wiring yet, but everything is labeled and ready to go. I've got 30 connections that I need to make but that's EVERYTHING to make all the gauges work, relays, grounds, fuel pump resistor, back up lights, 4wd indicator, ECU, etc. I hear you only technically need about 10-12 wires to make it run but I wanted to try to do it right the first time and not have to patch stuff in after the fact.



****************************************************************

Currently I could not find any good information on the web regarding what had to be done to the Cressida wiring harness to be able to wire the motor for a motor swap since the Supra and Cressida wiring harnesses are different. So with the resources of Cressida and Supra Factory Electrical Manuals, the info I've found on the web for the Supra swap and info I received from two locals that have done the swap using a Cressida, I starting striping my donor harness down one wire at a time. Basically what I did was just find all the wires that went to the motor and kept those while I cut everything else out and labeling everything as I go. After I got that done I took what I had left over and compiled the follow info:

Important Wiring Connections for 1989 Toyota Cressida, Non-California, US model.
Please refer to a Cressida FSM for wire numbers in the plugs as I don't feel like scanning a picture of each plug wire configuration.
(*) = means this must be connected to the vehicles wiring

B1 Connection - Dark Gray in color - located next to the intake plenum
Refer to as C1 Connection in a Supra
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, *IGN SW2 from AM2 Fuse, B-R
#2, *IGN SW2 from AM2 Fuse, B-R
#3, *EFI Main Relay #4*, B-R w/ Red dots

N1 Connection – Gray in color -  located under the EGR
Auto Transmission Indicator Switch
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, *Backup Light Switch, R-B
#2, *Jumper to #3 to bypass Neutral  Start Switch, B
#3, *Jumper to #2 to bypass Neutral  Start Switch, B-W

N15 Connection – Gray in color -  located under the EGR
Auto Transmission Indicator Switch
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, *I made this my new 4WD Indicator (was park light), G-W
#2, Ignore
#3, Ignore
#4, Ignore
#5, *Backup Light Power, Y w/Red dots
#6, Ignore

C1 Connection – White in color wrapped in foam -  located next to the ECU
Refer to as M1 Connection in a Supra
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, *Tach, B-Y w/ Silver dots
#2, *Water Temp, Y-B w/ Silver dots
#3, *Ground, Br w/ Silver dots
#4, *Oil Pressure, Y w/ Silver dots
#5, Removed from plug
#6, *New 4WD Light, G-W w/ Silver dots
#7, Removed from plug
#8, Removed from plug
#9, Removed from plug
#10, Removed from plug
#11, Removed from plug
#12, Removed from plug

T3 Connection – Dark Gray in color -  plugged into the ECU
Do nothing

T4 Connection – Dark Gray in color -  plugged into the ECU
Do nothing

T5 Connection – Dark Gray in color -  plugged into the ECU
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, *EFI Main Relay #2, W-R w/ Red dots
#2, *IGN Fuse, B-W w/ Silver Dots
#3, Removed from plug
#4, *EFI Main Relay #3 (M-Rel), Gray w/ Red Dots
#5, *Check Engine, TDCL (W), Y-R w/ Silver dots
#6, Fuel Pump Relay #3, G-R w/ Silver dots
#7, TDCL (TT), LG w/ Silver dots
#8, Removed from plug
#9, *Speed Sensor, V-W w/ Silver dots
#10, Removed from plug
#11, Circuit Opening Relay #3 & Starter Fuse & Cold start Injector, B w/ Red dots
#12, *EFI Main Relay #4 (+B), B-R w/ Silver dots
#13, *EFI Main Relay #4 (+B1), B-R w/ Silver dots
#14, Removed from plug
#15, Removed from plug
#16, Removed from plug
#17, Removed from plug
#18, Removed from plug
#19, Removed from plug
#20, Removed from plug
#21, Removed from plug
#22, Neutral Start Switch, B-W w/ Silver dots

T6 Connection – Dark Gray in color -  Under steering column
TDCL – Toyota Diagnostic Communication Link
Remove everything from this plug except the connections from B2 & T5

B2 Connection – Dark Gray in color -  small plug located next to the ECU
Refer to as part of the B1 Connection in a Supra
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, Removed from plug
#2, Removed from plug
#3, Removed from plug
#4, Removed from plug
#5, Removed from plug
#6, Removed from plug
#7, Removed from plug
#8, Removed from plug
#9, Removed from plug
#10, Removed from plug
#11, TDCL (TE2), LG-R w/ Silver dots
#12, TDCL (TE1), LG-B w/ Silver dots
#13, TDCL (ENG), Gray w/ Silver dots
#14, TDCL (E1), Brown w/ Silver dots
#15, Removed from plug
#16, Removed from plug

B3 Connection – Dark Gray in color -  large plug located next to the ECU
Refer to as part of the B1 Connection in a Supra
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, Removed from plug
#2, Removed from plug
#3, Removed from plug
#4, *Backup Lights, R-B w/ Silver dots
#5, Fuel Pump Relay #1, Circuit Opening Relay #1, G-W w/ Silver dots
#6, *Ground, W-B w/ Silver dots
#7, *Starter Relay #4, B-W
#8, *AC / OBA Clutch, B w/ Red dots
#9, *Starter Fuse #4, Circuit Opening Relay #3, Cold Start Injector, B w/ Silver dots
#10, Removed from plug
#11, Circuit Relay #4, G w/ Silver dots
#12, *Starter Fuse #1, B
#13, *Backup Light Power from Engine Fuse, Y w/ Silver dots
#14, Removed from plug

Circuit Opening Relay
Located in the RH side kick panel of donor Cressida
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, Fuel Pump Relay #1, B3{#5}, G-W
#2, *EFI Main Relay #4, B-R
#3, Starter Fuse #4, T5{#11}, B3{#9}, B w/ Silver dots
#4, B3{#11}, G w/ Silver dots
#5, Removed
#6, *Ground, W-B w/ Silver dots

Fuel Pump Relay
Located in the RH side kick panel of donor Cressida
Wire Number, Description, Color
#1, Circuit Opening Relay #1, G-W
#2, Fuel Pump Resistor #1, G-B w/ Red dots
#3, T5{#6}, G-R w/ Silver dots
#4, *Fuel Pump, Fuel Pump Resistor #2, B-R

The items/connections that I'm reusing from my 85 4runner originally equipped with a 22RE are as folllows:

EFI Fuse
Alternator Wiring
4Runner fuse box
SR5 dash
SR5 oil pressure sender

[UNBREAKABLE]

Are you going to use the A/T computer? Don't try to swap to a supra computer b/c of the A/T and the M/T the harness connectors are different. Where did you get that label maker, what kind is it? I really like how they look. I'd like to find one like that for me.

[4RnrRick]

My donor engine was from a 1989 cressida with and Auto. From my understanding all cressida's are automatics and I know two other people that where successfull with there cressida auto swaps. And when the wrecking yard was looking for a engine that is what they found for me, so that is what I got....

I got the label maker from Walmart for like $25....This morning I already used up all 13 FEET of the label roll that it came with, so I had to go buy another couple rolls for $7.... But it sure looks nice with everything labelled nice and neat! WAY better then my chicken scratches on masking tape!

[4RnrRick]

Heres the label maker I got:

Dymo LETRATAG QX50 Electronic Labelmaker


From a quick search it looks like it looks like Wallmart, OfficeMax, Office Depot all carry it so it should be pretty easy to find. Plus its pretty symle to use.

[UNBREAKABLE]

Right....I am using an auto Cressida too. Mine is a 92 that we converted to turbo. I'm going to run dual W56's and a single 4.0 t-case that have been cryo'd for strength. I really like how those labels look, so it is off to Wal-mart for me. BTW your project is comin' along great.

[4RnrRick]

Okay I got alot done today...... well maybe not a lot, but atleast I got the huge step of putting the motor into the 4runner done!

So the First major event was installing the flywheel. I didn't have the correct bolts so I had to run to the store to buy some; the ones for the 22RE where 12MM and the cressida ones where too short. The ones I got where class 8.8 M10 X 1.25 X 25mm Long. Worked out good.

So the Second major event was installing the clutch... Well the pressure plate I got from MarlinCrawler was wrong. Not sure why, but it wouldn't bolt to the flywheel. It had a slightly smaller bolt circle and hole spacing was different. I knew that could be a possiblilty since Chris Gieger over the phone said they don't normally deal with the engine so he would have to call his supplier for the correct part numbers. Never dawned on me to try it before today....So anyway, after about 30 minutes of phone calls I found a OEM replacement clutch kit about 20 miles away.... So off for another parts run..... Got back to the house and it bolted up perfect. So now I'm going to have to call Marlin Crawler up Monday to figure out what happened and how to return it. This also means that I'm now using a OEM clutch and not a ceramic clutch. Not sure how I feel about that but time will tell.

Then onto trying to fit this engine into the engine bay! The only why I could figure out how to get it in without cutting the core support was to turn it sideways...



And then about halfway into the engine bay turn it back forward and this also requires the tranny to be pulled back out of the way.



See how tight of a fit it is!



Then after a bunch of jiggling and wiggling, all the swear words I know, and about an hour later I finally got it into place and the tranny engaged. I also had to make my thrid parts run for some bellhousing bolts. The (4) upper bolts are M10 X 1.25 X75 mm and the (4) lower bolts are M10 X 1.25 X 40mm.



This is how I hooked up the heater lines and brake booster vacuum line. And yes thats a dual diaphram booster installed with the 7MGE.... I've got about 3/16" between the plenum and the booster. NOT ideal by any means!!! My plans is to dent the booster to make a little more room for it. The EGR is also very close to the firewall, hopefully I can get in there and dent that also! I've also got some ideas on trying to lock the drivetrain down into position a little better that just factory mounts to hopefully stop the engine from moving around so much. We will see what happens.

[4RnrRick]

So here how the motor mounts worked out. 7M block, W58 Bellhousing, W56 tranny, 5M upper mounts, 22R/RE rubbers, and the factory 85 4runner frame mounts. I got to give a lot of credit to whoever figured this combination out!!!!! It still amazes me that all these different factory toyota parts bolt together to make this conversion a bolt in!



Heres another shot of the dual diaphram booster and plenum clearance. I should also mention that this is with 2" of transfer case lift via Sky's Crossmember. Without the transfer case lift, it probably wouldn't clear!



Right now, my new 2" thick V6 radiator will not work the water pump and crank pulley hit it! I've only got about 2 1/2" of room to work with to the radiator mounting surface. I'll figure something out, but I want my factory hood latch! That project is for another day....



Here is how the fuel line, clutch line and starter worked out. Man its a PITA getting to those bolts!



And here is a shot of the Supra oil pan. Looks like it was designed for this application. And this is for all those people that said the Cressida pan would work. After taking some measurements of the Cressida pan, that one would interfer with the drag link by 1/2" at ride hieght! As shown in the picture I have 3 1/2" till by bump stop hit and I have 3 3/4" of clearance between either the tie rod or drag link versus the pan! Its just perfect. But I still need to get the oil pump and hardline before I can seal up the bottom of the motor.

[TrackVino]

Looks like you have lots of room. Looks cool 

[UNBREAKABLE]

Well, the cressida pan will work in my project....I have more lift than you do.

[Paul_Elbisser]

 have been running the same factory cluth out of the junkyard car in mine since I instaleed the engine. Benn on the Rubicn, underwater on fordyce GSMTR a few times, New Mexico, Moab. No problems yet.

[4RnrRick]

It sure doesn't feel like I got much done today......

I fabricated a AFM bracket to support it off the side of the head.



Heres what it looks like bolted up into place.



I also tweaked the main harness a bit to get a cleaner look and got that bolted to the firewall. I also fabbed up a fuel return line from some 1/4" tubing for the back of the firewall.



I got the charcoal canister bolted to the wheel well. I decided to just reuse the one from teh 22RE since it was a bit smaller than the 7M one and I have the mounting brackets. I hope it works alright in this position. I know som eof the early carb trucks have them down low like this.



And here is a mock up of my radiator clearance with a stock 2 core 4 cyl radiator. This isn't going to work.....



Or this.....I think the main reason why mine is so tight compared to others I've seen is that my 4runner has been in a major front end collision before I bought it. When I got it, the front crossmember was badly bent in and everything was teaked and busted up. I actually straighten it most of the way out with a chain and a big tree when I oringally built the rig 5 years ago!!!! So now that problem has resurfaced. Time to start cutting!



Here is a quick overall shot with both batteries in the engine compartment. I main just did this to get a overall picture of what space I had to put stuff.....

[mr4x42u]

Kind of crazy to think of all that stuff was bolt in,,,that makes engine swaps so clean and easy..It looks really good in there,,even though it is a tight fit,,it looks like it belongs..

[Uncle Jesse]

The carb trucks had two charcoal canisters, one for the tank and one for the carb bowl.  The carb bowl canister was the one up front down on the fender.  You should be able to reuse the 22re canister because you are still using the 22re tank right.  I think that charcoal canisters are tank size dependent.

[Willy Mammoth]

I had a 2.8L 6 cyl Z car motor in my nissan at one time and recessed the firewall so it would set back a bit. I was able to use the radiator with an electric fan. Sorry, no pictures from that far back, but it is a thought. If you could go back a couple inches at least it would help.

[4RnrRick]

Tonight, I figured out how to get a York mounted to this engine for OBA!

My orignal thought was to lower the Alternator and mount the York up high on the driver side of the engine. But I didn't like this option very much because it would put the alternator down in the crap which is a problem with the 22R series alternators and the mud and water here in Oregon. plus after I got the engine installed, there just wasn't enough room to relocate the alternator down low.

What I figured out tonight was how to relocate the PS pump to the driver side of the engine so I can mount the York in the original PS location. another problem this solved was my routing of the PS lines and the location for a PS reservior. Now that the PS pump is back near the steering box I can keep everything basically like OEM.



So what I did first was to cut up the OEM Cressida AC mount. Then I made a couple small adapter brackets. This took a pretty long time to figure it out and to get the alignment right but I think it turned out very simple and clean.



This is what the brackets look like assemblied to the engine:



From the other side:

[4RnrRick]

And with the pump installed:



From the top:



And then this is how it all turned out. I have to get one size longer belt so I can actually tension it properly but thats no big deal. And doing this I was even able to reuse my 85 high pressure power steering line.



Next up is to do the York, But I'm still waiting on the serpentine pulley. I guess the store got it in from my special order and sold it before I could pick it up so they had to order another one for me.....

[UNBREAKABLE]

I've got a york 210 to go on mine.

[4RnrRick]

How did you do yours?

[4RnrRick]

I got quite a bit done today, well until I ran out of wire for the Mig.... ARGH

Time to tackle the cooling issue. Heres the comparision between the 1 1/4" thick, 2 Core, 4 Cylinder radiator and the 2" thick, 3 Core, V6 radiator.



I cut out the lower part of the core support as needed. But I still left the top main piece for the OEM hood latch.



And since the V6 radiator is taller and I need to move it forward, I had to cut out the factory front crossmember to replace it with a piece of angle. well since I've had the vehicle, the front crossmember has looked like this, so it needed to be replaced anyways....



And now with the new crossmember.



Now you might think that a piece of angle (3 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 1/4") is not enough support but this is a All-Pro bumper that bolts to the front of the frame and the body mounts, so it provides quite a bit of additional support. I might down the road add some rect. tubing to it to stiffen it up, but for now, this will be fine.



Then I took some 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1/8" angle and made my vertical radiator supports. these are going to be welded to the top of the frame and not the sheetmetal core support. Doing that should stop the possiblity of the cab flexing around and changing my radiator clearances.



And now for mock up.... You can hardly even see the electric fan. Just want I wanted - A nice stock look!



Well the tarus fan (16") wouldn't fit with this bumper. so I ended up buying an 14" Hayden rapid-cool reversable electric fan and a 185 degree thermostat relay wiring kit from Knecths (~$163). So thats the fan thats shown here.



This fan is 3 7/8" thick and just clears the winch by 3/8".



And heres the engine clearances I ended up with. and this is with the factory hood latch, just like I wanted....

[UNBREAKABLE]

I haven't gotten it figured out yet.

[4RnrRick]

Well today it seemed like I couldn't get anything done! I just kept running into one problem after another and having to make parts runs......

The only major problem to tackle & finished today was the radiator hoses. I spent probably a good hour down at Napa looking at their wall of hoses to find something I could make work. Luckily I made a pretty good sketch of what I needed so I got what I needed the first time.

For the lower hose I ended up buying these two hoses and cutting and splicing them together. This worked out pretty good.



For the upper hose I bought this one to cut and rotate.



Here is how the upper one turned out. Pretty clean for what I'm dealing with.



And here is the lower one. I also plumbed my power steering into the tranny cooler in the radiator.



I also made a support bar for the lower bolt for the hood latch.



And this is how it pretty much looks like right now. Got the coil installed, Main battery, washer fliud, radiator overflow, dual battery isolator, power steering reserve, Winch, grill, etc....

I think I'm just about ready to put the hood back on.... after I finish mounting the other battery and weeding out some of the old 22RE wires on the driver side fender.

[BUBBA]

Nice work,looking really good.Don't forget to write down those part #'s so you won't have to hunt for em when it comes time to replace em again.

[4RnrRick]

Well all I did today was work on the wiring. Cleaning up some of the old 22RE stuff and start soldering connections for the 7M. I probably got about 50% of it done.

[crawlerdan]

hey dude, i used a tacoma v6 rad. in my 85, i just cut all the inner structure out of the bottom of the hood, and used pins

[4RnrRick]

Well I worked on the wiring some more today.... I think I got all the wiring finished in the passegner side kick panel. It looks a lot worse than it really is ... well I think so ...

A couple things that I changed was instead of using all the wiring for the 7M-GE Circuit Opening Relay, I just wired the existing one above the passenger side kick panel. my 4runner does not have a fuel pump relay or a fuel pump resistor, so I did have to use the one from the 7M-GE. I did not use a Starter relay like the Cressida US model, instead I wired it like the Canada Cressida that don't have a starter relay to eliminate a couple wires. Plus the 4runner does use one now either. But I did have to wire in a Starter Fuse which I did not show in my previous list.

So heres how it looks now....



And with the plastic trim installed.

[crawlerdan]

better you than me buddy, thats all im gonna say, my head hurts just thinmking about such a conversion, good luck