4RnrRick is getting a 7M-GE / 7MGE Motor swap

[4RnrRick]

Notice I didn't even bother to mask the old filter off when I was painting the block. But I couldn't take the orange any more so I decided to change it. BTW I just used a filter for a 22RE because thats what I had and it looked to be twice the capacity as the 7M filter that was on there and it had the same thread and sealing surface....

[shad]

Awsome engine looks great.

[4RnrRick]

I got the exhaust side of the head all cleaned and ready for the manifold. But I can't put the exhuast on until I get the Supra oil pan, pickup tube, dip stick tube and dip stick installed which the wrecking yard is still having a hard time getting a hold of.



I also got the intake plenum installed.



I also got all the rest of the other little stuff taken care of so now its time to start on the runner.



But before I started tearinginto the 4runner I decided to get some base line test for its performance.

Test #1
0-40 MPH on flat ground
10.5 second average (2 runs)

Test #2
0-60 MPH on flat ground
23 second average (3 runs)

Test #3
Hillside Drive - mild hill close to the house
Top speed at crest was 48 MPH in 3rd gear

Test #4
Sunset Drive - really steep hill close to the house
Top speed at crest was 31 MPH in 2nd gear

So those should give me some good performance numbers to compare to after I get the new motor installed. I also weighed it at the truck stop and with me in the 4runner it weighed 4500 lbs +/- 10 lbs with an empty gas tank. and just for reference thats with my built 22RE, W56, Dual cases, 1/4" thick drivelines, 5.29 gears, 36" Bias ply IROKS at 15 psi.

I also then did a very thorough compresion test since this motor is up for sale!

#1 Cylinder, 122 PSI dry, 148 PSI wet (26 psi increase)
#2 Cylinder, 133 PSI dry, 174 PSI wet (41 psi increase)
#3 Cylinder, 158 PSI dry, 184 PSI wet (26 psi increase)
#4 Cylinder, 156 PSI dry, 175 PSI wet (19 psi increase)

[4RnrRick]

Then Chris and Pete came over to help me pull the motor out of the 4runner. (They just got done pulling Chris' motor at Petes house since he spun 2 rod bearings and was now looking for a good long block.) Thanks Guys for all the help!



Just a silly comparision shot ...



We stripped it down to the block and Chris decided he wanted the block so we stuck it in a rubber maid container.



So we could put it in the back seat of my car to get it over to Petes house. Looks like the car is a little pisse off with it in the back seat....... Pete also had his eyes on my thorley head, so he bought that from me.



And now this is what the 4runner looks like!

[Hyena]

Poor runner is heartless now, you killed it.  Buildup is going along nicely.

[TrackVino]

Looks very good. The cleaner the better 

[UNBREAKABLE]

well you are kickin' ass and takin names with your swap! I'm still waitin on all this friggin rain to quit so I can finish gettin' my frame out from under my doner

[4RnrRick]

Well I took Fathers Day off from the project to go compete at a RC Rock Crawling Comp..... I had a great time plus I got 1st place in the Unlimited Class with my Clod and 2nd place in the 2.2 Class with "The Wife's" RC which really locks in my position for 1st place in the big truck for the championship points....

Heres some pictures (so far) and info about the event if you guys are interested. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9725

[TrackVino]

Thats funny cool 

[Paul_Elbisser]

 You will lobve this engine. I do recomend not skimping on the radiator. I had 1 head gasket go out. Then after I replaced it and got the proper tourque on the head I installed a new Radiator. Well it ran hot pulling a few hils and eventualy the bottom end went. I ow run and aluminum with puller fans.

http://www.riceontherocks.org/garage.htm

Don't skimp on saftey. The green wire from the MAF goes to the relays in the pass kik panel for fuel cut off. And make sure you put the check valve in the acume line for the brake booster. This keeps vacume for one pump of the brakes if the engine stalls.

Email if you got any questions.tlcapaul (at) fuse.net  I havn't been surfin the message boards to much lately. I'm starting on building a truggy now.    But I'm still keeping my 4runner. It can pull grades in 5th gear at 3000 rpms. and idle down to 300 on the trails. It's SWEET

[UNBREAKABLE]

OHHH that makes me happy to hear! I should be around 300HP with mine! Mine is back on the engine stand getting cleaned up and awaiting the "new" frame...I wish mine was 1/2 as clean as yours.

[reklund5]

Rick-

Here's my 7M setup in the Supra if it helps...

[4RnrRick]

Heres some pictures of the two bell housings side by side. This W58 bell housing is from a 87 Supra non turbo 5 speed. The W56 is from my 85 22RE 5 speed 4Runner.



For the clutch line I just cut the line and re-double flared it.



Then I re-used the factory steel and rubber line combo that the W56 used. The feet on the clutch slaves are different so you need to make sure you get the one for your new bell housing.



For the throttle cable I removed the one for the 22RE since its like 2 feet too long and installed the one from the donor cressida. This is basically a bolt -in part..... just need to find some longer bolts and some large washers. The only kicker here is that I heard you need to install it from the inside of the cab to make it work. So thats what I did.



I also cleaned up the engine bay a bit. Just a quick wipe down is fine for me......

[4RnrRick]

Okay just talked to the Salesman on the wrecking yard about the 7M Supra oil pan, pickup, dip stick and dip stick tube that they still owe me......

I guess they got the oil pan in that I need but it doesn't have anything else with it. So they shipped it back and ordered another one from another wrecking yard. Well that wrecking yard finally shipped it and the same thing happened AGAIN!!! He thinks they are just pulling the pan off the shelf and shipping it and not reading the rest of the PO.....

So he has now found one off a motor out of Washington and its getting
overnighted to him with everything included. So hopefully I will have that tomorrow. I can't go any farther in my swap until I get the correct oil pan, so I can drop the motor into the 4runner and start working on fitment issues. If I don't get the oil pan soon, there is no way I can make my dealine for making to the 'Con over 4th of July weekend. Heck tonight I think I'm going to have to work on the wiring without the motor even being in the rig!

[UNBREAKABLE]

Why do you have to use a supra oil pan? I'm using the Cressida pan

[4RnrRick]

Why do you have to use a supra oil pan? I'm using the Cressida pan

Because I've got very little lift and hysteer. I don't even think I could install the engine on the mounts without having the cressida oil pan hit my drag link. also this is on a 85 solid axle frame. I think the motors on the IFS trucks sit a touch higher.

[fzj40]

Sorry for the off-topic, but how much lift w/hysteer are you running?  IFS steering box?  The reason I ask is that I want to SAS my 4Runner, but I don't want much lft.  3" is enough for me.  One of Marlin's guys told me the best I could do would be Marlin 4" springs (with one leaf removed for a 3") on top of the 1.5" built into the SAS, but 4.5" is still more than I want.  What are you running?  Thanks!

[Paul_Elbisser]

I think you may have trouble with the hardline on the clutch slave breaking with that setup. I took a pic of mine today I will post after work tomorrow. But you need suport or it will break when the engine shifts. I had the one on mine break after the starter fell off in Colorado when I had a 22RE. I lost te support and down the road the line broke. Ad I was just on highway.

[4RnrRick]

Well I didn't get much done last night....

The easy thing I did was I got the fuel line extended using some fuel line hose and hose clamps. I know its not pretty but it should work. Hopefully later on I will be able to find a company that can make me a nice line for it.



Then I started trying to tackle the wiring!! What a nightmare. I'm no wiz when it comes to wiring but I do feel comfortable doing it. The main problems I'm having is that all the info I've found on the web doing this swap refers to a donor Supra vehicle where I'm using a Cressida as the donor. So with the great knowledge of toyota, ALL the main connectors that everyone refers to are totally different!!! Different color, Different shape, different number of conductors, etc.... Plus my donor vehicle is a 1989 and the FSM's I'm borrwing is for a 1991 cressida and the CD I got off ebay is for a 1989 Supra. And the chiltons I have just SUCKS!!! I think, I've figured out the main differences but I still feel LOST!!!!!



So basically all I did was just start tracing and labeling all the plugs on the harness to figure out what goes where. Plus that will also hopefully help me out on figureing out what I can cut out of the harness. Then I found what I believe are the main plugs to splice everything into my 4runner harness and now I'm trying to identify what each wire does.....



Hopefully my oil pan comes in today so when I go to pick that up and can stop off at Sky's shop to see exactly what they did on their project 4Runner.

[4RnrRick]

Sorry for the off-topic, but how much lift w/hysteer are you running?  IFS steering box?  .....  What are you running?  Thanks!

I think I'm around 3 - 4" of suspension lift on a solid axle frame. The IFS box is moved way forward on the frame. I'm running junkyard packs.... Rears up front with some mazdas thrown in, double pack of mazda's out back with a mazda buggy leaf.

I think you may have trouble with the hardline on the clutch slave breaking with that setup.

Thanks for your concern but I've been running this unsupported setup for over 5 years with no problems...... plus I carry trail spares so I could fix it on a trial if something was going to happen.

[Paul_Elbisser]

Clutch line is hard to the frame. The cooler there is for my Power steering. I took out the tube in front of the radiator.



Somewhere I came up with a braided fuel line from an airplane. Cut the original line ends and braised fittings on the ends to make adapters. Sorry that pic suks

[4RnrRick]

Let me explain some of my confusion here about teh wiring harness so you can see what I'm facing and hopefully someone that has does the swap with a Cressida harness can chime in and help me out.....

Please remember that the info below is from what I remember from dealing with it from about 6:00pm until 12:30am last night... So its probably close but don't take it as the truth if I called somethign wrong or didn't remember the exact number of wire in a plug.

See for a Supra swap you have three main connectors. C1, B1 and M1. C1 is suppose to have 5 wires and is next to the plenum. B1 has like 22 wires and is next to the ECU and M1 has like 6 wires and is next to the ECU. That is for the Supra harness. The cressida is different! the connector next to the plenum is B1 and has 3 wires. then the large plug that is suppose too have 22 wire next to the ECU is now actually two plugs B2 (12 wires) & B3 (10 wires) on the cressida harness. and the supra M1 plug on the cressida is called C1. Also note that these connectors are different shapes from teh cressida harness to teh supra harness.

So you can se how this is confusing.... not only did the names and shapes of the plugs change but a couple of them just switched names.....

Supra(C1) = Cressida(B1)
Supra(B1) = Cressida(B2 & B3)
Supra(M1) = Cressida(C1)

So after I figured that out then I looked at my supra info and compared a specific wire in the supra info to my cressida info for the symiliar plug and then seen if I could find that wire on my harness. in doing this I started to understand how to read the schematics quicker and easier. also in this process I had to strip the tape off several areas of the harness to trace the wires to try to understand where they went and why. So by the end of the night I was just flipping thorough the cressida manual looking for plug designations (like #7 & #12 terminal on B3 connection goes to the neutral start switch) and then if the wires matched the color and traced to approximately the correct location, I would label them with their actual function so when I got read to cut and splice I know what I was doing. But one part that I'm really confused on is I'm not sure what to do with one of the plugs coming out of the ECU since it goes into the main bundle under the cressida dash and not to the main engine harness like the other two plug coming out of the ECU.....

[Paul_Elbisser]

alot of the main bundle for under the dash goes to the gauges, ac amp, check engine light, stuff like that. That also may be the routing for the MAF to ECM wire, it was on my 874runner.

I did my whole swap with just haynes manuals, so it can be done. I am an electrician so I am used to wire diagrams

I did alot and kept track on 4x4 wire. http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB11&Number=32344&Forum=,,&Words=7mge%20swap&Searchpage=1&Limit=25&Main=32321&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=1507&daterange=1&newerval=&newertype=w&olderval=2&oldertype=y&bodyprev=#Post32344 I called it finished on 4/3/01

Some of my notes from an 86.5 supra to 87 4runner:

From the small Plug in the Supra harness, ( where the gauges are) I got the Grey/green stripe wire. I hooked it to the Purple wire comming from the truck large plug. This got the check engine light to work. I had one code.

The Purple from the Supra small plug. I had to cut the Green/blue stripe wire from the truck ECU plug ( the one thats left in the truck from the MAF). This is for the speed sensor. This cleared my code.

Blue/red stripe from the Supra big plug to the White/green stripe of the truck small plug. This hooks up the AC amplifier.

[Paul_Elbisser]

oops that was 5/5/02 I finished. the other date was my reg date on the BB

Here is another threa to look at
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB11&Number=31106&Forum=,,,,&Words=7mge%20swap&Searchpage=2&Limit=25&Main=31106&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=1507&daterange=1&newerval=&newertype=w&olderval=2&oldertype=y&bodyprev=#Post31106

[TrackVino]

 

[lilbuddy]

Well its time to bust some  Its going to be great when its done.

[4RnrRick]

So the wrecking yard finally got the 7M supra oil pan, pickup tube, dip stick and dip stick tube in today from Washington. So I got it all cleaned up and ready to bolt in when I discovered a major problem!! I should have also had them get me the supra oil pump and hard line! I've read about other people just swaping pans with the parts I listed above and no mention of the oil pumps being different. ARGH....

So this basically screws me on being able to go to the 'Con 4th of July weekend because with this screw up, I just don't see it happening. Not that big of a deal, but I was wanting to go. So atleast I can now lighten up on my tight schedule and get more sleep! Working a full time job in the day and the working at this at night untill 11:00-12:00 and only getting 5 hours of sleep is really start to wear on me....

So anyways I'm now going to have to find the correct oil pan and hardline before I can install the motor into the 4runner.

So now to explain what is going on here..... The cressida oil pan is a front sump. The supra oil pan is a center sump. Toyota never made a rear sump for the 7M. And since I've got crossover steering and very little lift, the front sump oil pan was just not going to work! So here is a comparision shot to show the difference.



And here is a shot of the pick up tubes. Notice how the supra pickup tube has a different flange on it then the cressida..... well right there that tells me I need to get a supra oil pump. by the time I figured this out I was only able to call one local parts house that was still open and I got a quote of $308 for a new oil pump and I'm assuming that is probably a reman with a core charge.



The other problem with the cressida oil pump is the hard line hangs down too far for the supra oil pan. So I'll also have to get a new one of those. but heres a picture of the cressida oil pump and hardline that won't work.



The other issue to tackle is the dip stick. as seen in this picture the red circle shows the boss on the block for the supra dip stick tube and the blue circle is for the cressida. Well if you try to put a cressida dip stick into a supra oil pan it will hit the bottom of the pan prematurely. I was just going to drill out the supra boss (as I have read on the web previously) and install a supra dip stick tube but I think I found a quicker and cleaner solution.



If you put a 90 degree twist in the cressida dip stick that will allow the end of the stick to flex to the left and slide down into the pan farther. so thats what I tried and it looks like its going to work out good.



After I got that all figured out I started working on the wiring harness some more. Luckily I was able to get to Sky's shop and look over his 4runner some more and I got some more notes about how his was done..... since his came from a cressida like mine....



But really its not as bad as it looks right there since the coiled up wires are ones that I've already pulled out of the main harness and those are the one I need.

[TrackVino]

Thats too bad about the 4th, Im trying to get mine done by september

[4RnrRick]

Here is a picture of the Supra oil pump and hardline that I need....

[Paul_Elbisser]

maybe mod the oil pic up like here till you get it.
http://www.supracharged.com/other_trucks/tobin/4runner/index.shtml