Topic: whinny Fuel Pump

[TOYJOETA]

About a month ago my fuel pump went out, so instead of getting another toyota one ($300) I got an AC delco one from work which was only $140, ever since I installed it, if I let it idle for a while it whines really loud. almost like it is working to hard, and one time it died. so i pulled the return line of and there is no fuel going back to the tank

The truck runs fine, when it starts up it sounds like there is a miss, but then it goes away after a second or three.

    

thanks
Joe

[HACKJOB]

I replaced my in tank fuel pump out a few years ago and it has been whining ever since.  The same pump has been in service now for about 3 years and has not failled me yet.  people all the time remark on the noise it makes as you can clearely hear it 2 or3 feet away from the truck and generally make a statment like you'll need a fuel pump soon, but it goes and goes.  On a positive note though its great to hear it whining that way at least you know every things working.  Good luck

[Uncle Jesse]

Make sure you grabbed the return line and not the vent line.  Also, when you changed out the pump, was there an obvious size difference?  Did you have to spice on the wires?  My pump whined real bad, could even hear it over the obnoxious flowmaster.  Took it out to put a denso unit in ($150, packaged as another brand, but said denso on it), and found out I had a crappy walbro universal pump in there.  Half the size of the denso unit, and had to be spliced in.  Put the denso unit in, no whining, truck starts better.

[79coyotefrg]

see i thought he was talking about a mechanical pump on a carb motor

[79coyotefrg]

dude, never get "american parts"  for a toyota,   they might SAY they match but the wont ,   nippon denso, aisin,  toyota,

acdelco, motorcraft

[Uncle Jesse]

The pump I purchased was sold by beck arnley, but was clearly a nippon denso unit. 

[TOYJOETA [OP]]

Make sure you grabbed the return line and not the vent line. Also, when you changed out the pump, was there an obvious size difference? Did you have to spice on the wires? My pump whined real bad, could even hear it over the obnoxious flowmaster. Took it out to put a denso unit in ($150, packaged as another brand, but said denso on it), and found out I had a crappy walbro universal pump in there. Half the size of the denso unit, and had to be spliced in. Put the denso unit in, no whining, truck starts better.

The AC Delco one had a smaller diameter,  Where did you get that Beck Arnley pump at?

[Uncle Jesse]

I got mine through a parts distributor at work.  I did get a discount, so I guess I would have payed more than $150 without discount.  The walbro pump I took out of the truck had a thick foam pad that went around it to take up space as it was a smaller pump.  I thought the foam would be a good idea for the new pump but it wouldn't fit in the pickup bracket with the foam on it.  That tells you about the size difference. 

I thought about the no fuel in the return line comment too.  If that is the case then you should have massive fuel pressure in the fuel rail.  I would imagine the truck would run rich, and maybe even smoke.  Hows your mileage.  Otherwise, the pump would be not pumping enough fuel to even necessitate the return line, and I can't see how the truck would run.  Double check that you indeed checked the return line and not the vent line

[TOYJOETA [OP]]

Yah I am positive that it was the return, plus i disconected both of the lines that went into the tank, to be sure.  also when i disconected the vacuum line from what i think was the regulator on the fuel rail there wasn't any real change in the way it ran.  and my mileage has been real sh!tty lately, but I thought it was because i didn't have a 4th gear and would have to go from 3rd to 5th. but I will have to see how it is now that I got an R-151 in there.

who is your parts ditributor, as i work in a shop to so i might be able to get one to.

Thanks
uncle jesse.

[Uncle Jesse]

Try disconnecting the return line right there at the regulator(have a jar handy to catch fuel in).  It sounds like you were in the right spot, at the end of the fuel rail (firewall side)where a fuel hose exits and has a vacuum line connected.  There has to be fuel coming out with the engine running.  If not, i'd say you may have a blocked regulator.  High vacuum means lower fuel pressure, low vacuum means higher fuel pressure.  If you have a blockage, it will be high.  I think normal fuel pressure is around the forties.  If you have a fuel pressure gauge you can tap it into the port that feeds the cold start injector.

I don't know the name of the distributor, the parts department got it for me, I know they go through a couple different ones, whoever has it at the time.

[TOYJOETA [OP]]

I disconnected the return line and nothin came out, so I think I found my problem, Will have to see how much a new one costs, I recently put a new pressure dampner in and that alone was 60 bucks, so this will probly be even worse oh well gotta do what ya gotta do.

[FATB0Y]

my buddy's truck did that B-4 he replaced the pump and when it died he put in a new "toyota" pump and it did the same thing. He called me cuz he was    confused

Found a dent  in the metal return line under the truck he musta run over something and it flew up and hit it I reckon

Anyhoo I cut out the "dent" and spliced in a rubber hose and wa-la the noise was gone

[Uncle Jesse]

Yeah, if you disconnected the return line at the regulator and nothing came out, but the truck runs, fuel is in the rail but not getting out.  Before you buy a new one remember that all (I think) are the same, even on the 22re celicas, so maybe a used one or two from the junkyard could be ok.  Check the price first, if they aren't bad just get a new one.

Also, did you check to see if you were getting vacuum to the regulator?  I have my doubts about no vacuum at the regulator completely closing the regulator, but it would be a good thing to check.

[TOYJOETA [OP]]

Yeah, if you disconnected the return line at the regulator and nothing came out, but the truck runs, fuel is in the rail but not getting out. Before you buy a new one remember that all (I think) are the same, even on the 22re celicas, so maybe a used one or two from the junkyard could be ok. Check the price first, if they aren't bad just get a new one.

Also, did you check to see if you were getting vacuum to the regulator? I have my doubts about no vacuum at the regulator completely closing the regulator, but it would be a good thing to check.

Thats a good idea, I'll do that before I go and spend $100 on a new regulator, maybe I knocked a line off when I was under there changing my T-stat a while back , I'm glad you said that, could save me alot of money.
Late
Joe

[TOYJOETA [OP]]

  Well, got my new regulator in and it works perfect now, idles a billion times better than before, and doesn't smoke any more, and you can hardly hear the pump, but that is mainly because I don't have a bed on right now.  Haven't drove it yet, but I bet it will be alot better.  Thanx for all the input, esspecially uncle jesse.

Late
Joe

PS the EGR lines were almost plugged from it running so rich, so I think since i don't have to do Emissions I am ordering LC engineering's block off kit, Anyone installed one before? if so how much of a pregnant dog is it to instal?

[Uncle Jesse]

the egr is only 5 bolts, three on the head and two on the manifold.  Watch the manifold bolts, as they can strip out, causing a vacuum leak.  Then you just plug the vacuum line going to the egr modulator, and you are done.  On the other hand, remember that a side effect of egr usage is cylinder cooling.  Of course I say that, having run my 22r without an egr for years.  Heheh.

Does that block off kit come with air injection block offs?  If you still run a cat I would recomment against that block off kit.  Your cat would quickly die from the rich cold starts.  Also, what year is your 22re?  If it's late enough, it may have an egr temp sensor.  That would turn on the check engine light if you ditched the egr.  If it doesn't have a temp sensor, you will be ok.  Just thinking, I made a block off plate for my egr (to test for a noise) using just sheet metal and a drill.  I roughly shaped it, drilled the three bolt holes, then sandwhiched it in between the egr and the head.  This method would keep the egr on the engine still, but you would only have to block off the head side.

I think I just rambled too much

[79coyotefrg]

 

[TOYJOETA [OP]]

The kit doesn't come with Air injections block offs, but that doesn't matter I don't have it.  I have been running with out a cat for about one and a half years now, so I don't have to wory about it burning up.  I don't think cooling will be a prob, because I upgraded to a 3 core radiator, and it cools awsome.  I am ordering the kit MON, so will get it hopefully before the weekend.