Topic: Timing problem?

[Mike D]

this is on an 88 22RE completly professionaly rebuilt. so today i went to set the timing and the factory specs say bypass the t-terminal and set it to 5 degrees BTDC and then take the wires off of the t-terminal then the timing should advance to 10-14 degrees for some reason the timing will not fully advance to 10-14 degrees it goes to about 8 or 9degrees. and when trying to drive the engine with the timing set like that it has a complete power loss you floor it and you get barely anything and the exhaust is way louder than previously.


The only thing we changed was the crank shaft pully cause there were huge groves in it we just took the one off the engine with the bad valve stem seals. So do you think it would be better to put the old pully on with one of those repair sleves just incase the timing marks on the pully are different. (Which i seriously doubt)

[reklund5]

I've seen crank pulleys break inside (the rubber) so the outside ring (where the belts ride and the timing mark is located) spins a little on the inside ring and throws the timing off when checked by the timing mark.  Make sure your crank keyway is at 12o'clock and your distribuitor engagement is dead on before ruling out anything...

Ryan

[Jase]

Kind of a long shot but I had a knock sensor that caused the exact same thing.  We switched motors and the wire plugged into both but it sure raised hell with timing and total loss of power. The new motor was an from and 86 and the old one was 87 or 88 (I dont recall).

[Mike D [OP]]

it was the pully as i suspected and its all good now but we still have to drive it to see if the knock sensor comes up again in the codes It was most likly due to the advanced timing

[hacksaw]

Yo Mike!  You have helped me a couple of times and I don't know if this is going to help but here goes.  I am fairly new to the Toyota world however I can build and tune just about any stock or high performance Chevy, or Ford engine out there.  The first thing that I would do is check your timing marks with "TRUE" TDC.  I am sure you know how to do that but if not, the mark should be at 0. when #1  piston is at TDC with both intake and exhaust valves closed, distributer rotor facing the #1 terminal on the cap.  That means that the distributer is not a tooth off and that the crank pully is accurate.  Next, I would make sure that the distributer is "Advancing" sometimes they freeze up and need to be cleaned so that the movement is sharp and quick.  Kind of like a spring!  If everything is working properly, you should set the timing to the required spec unless something elese has been done like "Cam timing"  maybe it is off a tooth???  Dont know about Toys but these things factor into the V8 world.  And if all elese fails, set it by ear!  Just make sure that you can hear the "Ping" under load accelaration, and then just back it off a bit.  Shut it off and restart, if it stops and starts good, button it down and call it good!!!  Loud exhaust usually means that the timing is very retard,.  Hope this helps???  Hack

[hacksaw]

Guess I was to late.  Oh well, great to hear that it is running good!!!

[Mike D [OP]]

 

[Mike D [OP]]

Alright the new pully is on and the timing is set to the factory specs but for some reason the timing has to be advanced to 16 btdc to run smooth and not have any lag. I'm guessing some ting is not working right any ideas

[BigMike]

Hey Mike,

First off, before you do anything, when you jump the T terminal with the E1, does the idle change? This is the most important thing. If your idle does not come down and the check engine light is not blinking, then you will never be able to set the timming correctly.

Im sure its ok for you, but this has happened to me a couple of times, and if your TPS sensor is out of adjustment by just a milimeter, then the timing circuit will never be used because the ecu sees that the throttle is on. If you idle is not changing when you jump T & E1, then try to rotate your throttle position sensor countclock wise just a smudge and (if this was the problem) the idle will dive down and now the timing will be ready to be set to 5 degrees. Otherwise, you may think that the terminals are jumped, but really you are just setting the normal timing to 5 degrees and not the "base timing" which is what the computer goes into when T&E1 are jumped.

Also set your rpm to ~near~ 800rpm when you set the dizzy for 5degrees. Then when you pull the jumper on the diag. box, the idle will go up slightly and now it should be 10-14 degrees.

It sounds that you have a lack of power because you are simply setting the timing to 5degrees -- not the base timing. See what I'm saying? With the terminals jumped, the timing is lower (base mode) then normal (driving) mode with the terminals un-jumped.

Anyways, its probably really trival and sorry to say so much about this, but be sure to note that the idle changes when you jump those terminals or else its not going to be on the base mode.

Regards,
BigMike

[Mike D [OP]]

I'll check that tonight

[TOYJOETA]

         I have and 85 22re and recently put an lc engineering head and trd cam in it.  When it came time to do my timing I coudln't even get the timing mark to apear in the light even when i jumped the T terminal.  I think my TPS might be shot because when I drive at part throttle then floor it it feels like i have plenty of power but then if i sit a full throttle for a while the power starts to go away so do you think it might be out of adjustment or shot.  I also have an MSD ignition.  Also after my truck warms up the tach drops while I have the throttle on but when I let it off the tach jumps back up to where it should be.  any info would help alot!

Thax Joe

P.S. sorry for all the also's

[Mike D [OP]]

well if ya get a performance cam you have to advance your timing to what the manufacturer says.

[79coyotefrg]

my question is i f you bought a LCengineering head why on earth did nt you buy a lc cam??

[TOYJOETA]

Because my friends brother worked for a toyota and was the whole sales manager so i got the cam and new rockers for like $100 brand new and plus i had bought the cam a year befoer the head but didn't have the time to put it in with school and work, but then my head gasket blew so I Just bought a new head because I couldn't afford to have my truck down while the old head was at the machine shop.