Looking for Centred 63" 9.5" diff to replace the 8" factory 55"

Started by john90lux, October 23, 2015, 09:50:01 PM

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

john90lux

 :crossed:Ok so this is my D/D,
It's a 90 saf Toyota same as your late 80's ( Aust mdl)
I'm rolling on 33" with 4.3:1 with 3" of Spring lift + 2" extended shackles front and rear + 1" drop hanger (front only)

Looking to move up to 37" on a daily bases with 5.29:1 final
I've ordered the Ivan dan sharp fenders and bonnet
And have a a flatbed back
So I should the clearance or close to with current lift, may need bumps top extishion

I'm aware the factory 8" front and back won't take 37" daily
So I'm after some replacment options of diff that will bolt in or bolt in and give me ifs width 63"
Front I think 80series Toyota diff goes straight under with some bracket removal and leaf Spring perches welded on
But rear I'm having issues sourcing something that is centred and can't find anything that is so what are you guys using over there

Trying to stay away from custom

redneckcustoms13

I been beating the hell out of 8" yota diffs for years with anything from 35's-42's. 2 of them with 300hp v8s. You should be fine if you don't get crazy with power
83 long bed 2wd sas, 3rz, w56, duals with 4.7 rear, 4.88 elock front, spartan rear, 39.5 iroks
01 double cab hunting truck
06 tacoma street truck

john90lux


helipilot77

I'm having custom diamond axle housing built just like you have described. 9.5" centered with fj-80 outers. But it's really not necessary. You should be just fine with the 8" diff I doubt you could brake it with a 3L.
-1987 SR5 4runner, 1KZ-t turbo diesel with mech. pump
& custom 3" S.S. dump pipe, R-151f transmission, marlin dual ultimate transfer cases w/ triple shifter, SAS, 35's https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=98969.0
-1984 SR5 Tercel 4wd wagon bone stock - given to my nephew https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=100547.0
-1:10 scale RC 4wd crawler w/yota axles, R2 2 speed enclosed dig tranny and 1st gen 4Runner body by BigBird
-My front axle service write-up http://board.marlincrawler.com/i

OOPS

You could go Ford 9. Myself I would stick with what you have and see how it goes.
David & Theresa Fritzsche, 1990 Ex-Cab with a few mods!!!!!!!!! Roseville, CA Sobriety =Serenity

Rockcrawlintoy

Quote from: john90lux on October 23, 2015, 09:50:01 PM
:crossed:Ok so this is my D/D,
It's a 90 saf Toyota same as your late 80's ( Aust mdl


I'm aware the factory 8" front and back won't take 37" daily


Trying to stay away from custom

I ran 37s daily with no issues for over 100k miles. I would be tempted to get a diamond or ruff stuff in the width you want with new shafts
Resident Jeep Guy
2007 JKU All Stock
ECV 7-11

ryantowry_81

closest cheap alternative would be a Tacoma rear at around 61" with the "8.4" diff. not really 8.4" ring gear but stronger than the old toyota 8"

the t100 and 1st generation tundra both used the 8.4 diff and the tundra even had a v8

john90lux

Not so worried about busting cv in the front as I can still get home
More worried that the knuckles will give way or I'll blow the rear

25mm mc arnt an option as I can only do the bottom of the knuckles as they don't make a RHD high steer
And being a d/d I'm not using the elimator kit

Is the turunda a floating rear axel as our late mdl Toyota here isn't

1985CRAWLER

if youre just using it mainly as a DD then you really wont blow out anything, ive daily driven my 85 runner for years on 37s and still wheeled the piss out of it whenever i had the chance and the diffs were the least of my worries.

the knuckles wont give way unless you are wheeling it pretty good and still the chance is very little, you can always gusset them too.

but seriously i wouldnt worry about the diffs at all if youre gonna be mainly daily driving it, but if you got the funds go all out and put some stronger axles under it.
low n' slow 85 runner SR5 22re,rcvs ,Duals,5.29s,Detroits f&r,40s,RUF,Chevy 63 rears,Armored,Cage

bobbed and beat 91 ex cab,3RZ swapped,dual ultimates, dana 44 sas 5.38/5.29 combo,37s, RUF, 63 rears,ARB front, detroit rear,cage

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=96250.msg1073007;topicseen#msg1073007

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=26920.390

john90lux

The price of axels down here is stuuped expensive
We can buy bigger diffs complete cheaper

I do 80% on road and only week about every second weekend
Nothing serious but that comes down to opinion
But I'm not competing in tuff truck

john90lux


Rockcrawlintoy

Resident Jeep Guy
2007 JKU All Stock
ECV 7-11

john90lux

Locally 18" are the cheaper tyres then 17 and 20's are most expensive
With close to $100 between the 3 rim sizes
Yet 17" rims are the cheapest and biggest size available in steel

Only resion I ask is because I have to pass engineering
Witch is brake testing and high speed turning and swerving

OVRAROK

for on road performance, the 20" on 37 would handle the best, for the simple reason that the sidewall would be smaller, I would never put a 20 on my truck, but that's just me, 17 inch rim is my personal choice
Even the most primitive society, has an intimate respect for the insane.

john90lux

I was thinking 18" would be the best compromise
Just that the only people round my way with 37-40" tyres don't run them daily they run 31 daily to stay legal with height laws and 4" lift then only put on, on weekends
Most d/d with single set of tyres run 33" with 2" lift as 4" total height is all we are aloud without paying big on endineering witch I plane to do,

I'm already runnin 1" master with twin dia booster
7/8 rear cylinders in drums
With dba 4000 series slotted rotors with brembo pads up front

Is there any other brake options except rear disk for upgrading