Topic: Buget 85 hilux first 4x4 ever just goin for it weekend toy!!

[turbo this..]

well got a slightly early day so had a few minuts of sun light

got the exhaust finished n fully mounted on rubber hangers its super quite now i expect once the air box pipe work is done the "turbo" noise will be fully muffled and near silent kinda a good thing unwanted attention from a howling turbo although sounds boss

also got the boost gauge on it temporarily ive found boost is total controlled by how much diesel is put into the engine and the rpms ie little or no fuel equals little or no boost for a given rpm

it builds about 5 pound by 1800-2000rpm if you flat pedal
15 pound roughly on a steady cruse at 2000-2500
gets to a max of 20 pound at about 4000rpm full pedal steady speed it holds about 15 at 4000rpm

so thinking that ill run with no waste gate at all and let it "free boost" altho its not really free boosting as its diesel not petrol

good IC and i think ill be set hopeing it rains tomorwo and i can sort the air box pipe work maby get to the scrappy in serch of a top mount and scoop from a factory car i have plenty of space for it as the cab is up 2" plus the space it had stock its about 4-5" tappet cover to hood so should fit nice

[turbo this.. [OP]]

been busy doing some cool stuff... see if you can guess what im up to??





got the air box plumbed in only thing to do is drill the catch can vet into the pre turbo pipework and mount the can






im excited to find out if or how well it works it may just be enough to knock a few 100 degrees c of my egt 

[turbo this.. [OP]]

well it seems water injection by its self isn't cutting it now ime yet to get some methanol to do a 50/50 mix like it should be and also it seems i cant flow enough volume throw this spray nozzle when i say that im meaning i cant get it te stem ie over inject so that tells me that the jet size is to small to get the full benefits so my next moves are to build a proper tank and run both a boost pressure line and a feed to the nozzle this should let me force more volume throw the same size jet and also hold more liquid for less frequent fill ups im not giving up on this water/methanol injection pre turbo yet im convinced it will deliver the goods and see my EGTs drop a few hundred degrees c and get me in a more comfortable position atm im being forced to lift up on the skinny pedal due to EGTs getting up near 550-600c pre turbo (at the collector/turbo inlet) thats the point i feel things might get a bit funky if i keep giveing it stick what i want it to beable to give it as much as i possible can for as long as i want with out seeing over that 550-600c temp then ill be happy but to get there i dont want to durn the diesel pump back down so that means i must get better cooling and make the burn more efficant to bring combustion chamber temps down a bit

loveing the power but hateing lifting up due to EGTS getting up there ill get there first is to fine tune the water/meth injection then if thats still not giveing me the goods ill do a top mount inter cooler with bonnet scoop if thats not any good ill fit an external oil cooler after that im stuffet i think

[tweake]

what size nozzle and pressure is the w/m system?
doing it pre turbo or after turbo?

[turbo this.. [OP]]

what size nozzle and pressure is the w/m system?
doing it pre turbo or after turbo?

well i thinks its a 1.8mm nozzle and ive got it full open ie the needle is pulled right back full flow
its pre turbo about 5-7 inches from the impeller to give it space to spreed

its just a spray painting gun i cut up and modded the idea is to have no electronics at all im not scared to submarine this truck

so the way it works is the liquid is held in a sealed tank with two lines one is a boost line and one is the feed to the spray gun head (where the paint normally goes) so when boost builds if pushes the water/meth out of the tank
the compressed air part of the gun where your shop air nomaly goes is feed directly from the turbo thats the little ring around the nozzle/needle assembly on the gun tip this ring makes a venture effect drawing fluid up this combination makes  a super fine mist from low pressure air

all with out any electronics like crazy high pressure pumps switches solinoids bla bla like normal systems have it only works when boost builds and more boost = more spray

i keep forgetting to take some good picks of it but atm im running an open tank ie no boost to force liquid to the gun/nozzle im going to build a seald tank soon but evan now i can see when the small tank is dry as the egt and coolant temps go up a bit also the truck looses some power so its working and im happy with the setup it just needs some finishing i need time when the shops are open to get the parts..

ive got a small oil leak from a fiting really sucks as its going to require me to remove a load of the turbo bits to get to the oil light switch in the block but it mush be done as i will not have anything that leaks its just not on in my books clean n tidy to make working on it nicer

also i garbed the non contact temp reader and took a oil sump check after pissing around and was surprised it showed around 80c right around the same as the coolant temp next time the coolant is way up like 95 100c ill grab another check and see if the oil is the same or what

im trying to find a front mount that will fit and look correct (not goofey) its more work to build new pipes for it but i think it will be the best vs top mount what will be the easiest ie just cutting the pipe work with minum welding ect but will suffer heat soak and need a scoop

[tweake]

set an air regulator up and check the flow rate of the nozzle.
not much chance of drowning it. it will stumble and miss fire before you get even close to drowning it.

however big nozzle, low pressure and being pre turbo, you WILL damage the turbo compressor. keep an eye on the leading edge it will go ragged and the edge will wear away before the vanes fail. it doesn't take much, i know one chewed the leading edge simply due to dirty water fouling the nozzle.

[turbo this.. [OP]]

right ive been pissing around with other stuff lately but did get a chance to check the intake air temp while out driving i did this just by my multy meter temp probe slipped under the silicone hose at the manifold so the coolest it ever gets in about 40c and thats idle or coasting down no throttle when its boosting about 10 pound it easily sees 60-75c at 15-20 pound it shoots up over 100c i seen that and got scared to what ive been putting the poor thing threw its now clear as day why my egts are way up the cheep cheep turbo is way inefficient and is just making super heated air decided to park it till i fit the front mount IC then ill see what IATs we get along with EGTs as a result of cooler in cooler out

ill check the flow rate on that spray and also check the impeller

[turbo this.. [OP]]

got myself a cheep IC core 600x300x76mm it was to tall so i cut it down now its 600x220x76mm im pleased with the way its going however im not pleased with the lack of argon in the gas bottle ill have to wait to finish it now 









going to start on the steel winch bar and wheel arch tubes to have a nice mesh screen where the IC core is IC will be painted flat black ill probaly do some checker plate infills and headlight buckets or something but the idea is to make the IC and winch bar replace the grill all in one still thinking about it

[tweake]

lucky bugger having welding gear 

mines not as nice.

[turbo this.. [OP]]

i may have a nice TIG inverter welder but thats not saying i can use it well  the diesel tank hasent fallen apart yet so thats a win haha

ill check that impeller out and also measure that spray nozzle too about all i can do with no welding gas kicking my self about that should have checked it before the weekend

im hoping the IC can pull a fair bit of heat out id like to see about 50c max not the 105+ its seeing under 15-20pound

the power i have now is good its just a case of getting the thing to where i can abuse it and enjoy it with out hurting it to badly atm its no fun i cant hold the power down the coolant and egts just rocket

for the coolant side of things im going to go for a 16" thermo fan and nice custom fitting shroud to make the fan pull over the full core maximizing the heat being exchanged plus i may make some bits to get some sort of fan assisted flow over the IC will see

no cab lift come on man your missing out

i see you modified you hod latch support bar as well i got lucky and used the core as the support bar as it was an easy way out

its the pipe work im not wanting to build its time consuming and fiddly getting those litle bits cut and tack welded up so much back and forth

[tweake]

i wouldn't bother mucking around with the fan. stock fan pulls enough, tho there is upgrades for that.

yeah no body lift. rules here get tricky once you start doing body lifts. only got skinny 31" on it anyway. really only for lite 4wding so i can get into hunting/fishing spots.
don't get to use it much, to much work and i have the work ute as well. i'm off road in that most days.

[turbo this.. [OP]]

ok so ive checked out the impeller and its suffered some damage could be from two things ether the water being to large in droplet size or debris leaking past the silicone hoses and clamps

i measured the spray quantity it consumed 1L of water in about 17minutes at 20psi that would be the equivalent of holding my foot flat for 17 mins at about 3500-4000rpms but thats not a real word situation.. at that spray rate its about 3.5L an hour

you can see the corners are chewed back and where there may have been leakage for the hose clamp also see the spray mist its hard to say how coarse or fine it is but it seems very fine as it travels a long way in the air id think it should drop out of the air fast if its coarse 






vid of the turbo sounds for fun


not sure what ill do now might scrap the WI or move it post turbo pre IC perhaps? ill need to build a proper tank if i do that as it will need to hold boost pressure

[turbo this.. [OP]]

i see must be good doing some wheelin while at work thats livein the dream

well gotten the IC finish welded with the pipe connections on and holes cut in the core support was getting kinder sootty welds by the end did the old hot water over the bottle trick to squeeze the absolute last outa it haha

got an air gauge and 1/4 line into it she holds air with no leaks might not be show quality welds but its keeping 50psi inside it that good enough for me

it rewarding to build things you never thought u could






as for rules  more like guidelines

[tweake]

ok so ive checked out the impeller and its suffered some damage could be from two things ether the water being to large in droplet size or debris leaking past the silicone hoses and clamps

i measured the spray quantity it consumed 1L of water in about 17minutes at 20psi that would be the equivalent of holding my foot flat for 17 mins at about 3500-4000rpms but thats not a real word situation.. at that spray rate its about 3.5L an hour

shes screwed.
to coarse and probably draining down the side of the tube. probably dribbling a lot if you don't have check valve on it. don't take much to rip the vanes up.

the amount of water is actually about right for pre turbo. do about 2-4x times that for after turbo injection.
boost pressure driving it is not going to cut it. theres a good reason they run 200psi pumps for WI. i would give it a miss untill you can get the gear.

[turbo this.. [OP]]

mmm my thoughts ill run the turbo as is
WI was just a trial thing to get me by but it seems id have been better with out at least id have a nice turbo wheel i wonder how much its altered the efficacy of the wheel? dont matter im not getting a new one..

fresh bottle of gas and ill get the pipe work sorted and then see the real stuff what it post IC air temp is vs the 105c i was non IC with the WI im hoping it is about the 50C max mark also hopeing the EGTS come down to abut 500-550c max when holding it down atm it gets over 700c to hot imo

im pushing to get the hilux done outa the way so i can finish the cylender head on my turbo mini and have them both mod plated its been about 4 years since ive have the mini on the road im well keen to have it back blasting around the streets the few times ive been out in it have been like doing a virgin 

[tweake]

yeah just run the turbo till it blows.

should see about 100c drop in egt with the IC.

[turbo this.. [OP]]

gotten a little done this arvo pre IC finished now its a simple straight bit with a 45 degree made from a few cuts n welds then dig some claps out of the parts boxes after that trim the grill a bit to fit it over the 76mm core then its time to see what the difference is hopefully its impressive
also need to get that crankcase breather into the air box or pre turbo pipe

pics to get an idea on the IC placement and size plumbing etc





 

[turbo this.. [OP]]

got her done

IC has taken IAT from roughly 100-110c down to 35-40c a huge difference well worth doing also no longer running the water injection

as a result its dropped about 100-150c on the EGT the whole rpm range when ever its on boost

not yet touched the diesel pressure might add some more diesel now that the EGT n IAT are down

swapped out the oil pressure sw as it started leaking out the insulator/metal housing

pic of the turbo oil drain




also found something that would not have been helping the compressor wheel this is the pipe from air box to turbo inlet it was a bit long and was rubbing on the air box so the missing metal has gone threw the turbo and engine as the pipes where clean  cant believe i forgot to cut it back..



the last time we went out to play i got carried away in the mud holes and got the engine really hot now its blowing a bit of oil smoke guessing ive glazed the bores and lost a bit of ring seal
 

[tweake]

not yet touched the diesel pressure might add some more diesel now that the EGT n IAT are down

your off boost/low boost AFR will be horrible now, adding more fuel will just kill it.

[turbo this.. [OP]]

best left as is until i know what the arf is at

ever since i turned the fuel up its been a bit harder to start and it will run rough for the first minute from cold then its smooth as
is this due to the injection time compared to crank angle has been changed from more pressure or will the pump pressure have no effect on the timing trying to work out if ive hurt the engine or if it needs the injectors shimmed or the pump timing adjusted or something

[tweake]

you can't actually change the injection pressure.
all your doing is adjust the maximum volume of fuel that can be injected.
however your actually adjusting the start of the injection, so it also has an effect of advancing the timing as well. you may have noticed a bit more diesel rattle after winding the fuel up.

[turbo this.. [OP]]

so its advanced the start of injection and retained the finish point
if so to get it back where it was or should be ill need to rotate the pump a touch?
i just want it to start and idle cold like it use to
it is a bit louder now with the delivery screw wound out

[tweake]

so its advanced the start of injection and retained the finish point

correct.
you would have had to adjust the idle speed when you adjust the fuel setting.

just check the glows are working and next time you start it cold, pump the fuel primer up till its hard and see if it starts better. just to make sure you don't have air getting in. sometimes when people play with the fuel setting they cause a small leak which can screw up start up.

normally advancing the timing helps with engine start and cold running. i know the later engines have a solenoid on the side of the pump for that which has water hose going to it.
if you want to adjust timing you will need a dial gauge and the VE pump adapter.

i have an electric lift pump which helps a lot. my injection pump is probably well worn and struggles to pull fuel up a low rpm.

[turbo this.. [OP]]

yep i did turn the revs down as i turned the fuel screw out

might be worth a new fresh set of glow plugs as i have no idea how old they might be for the money i think its worth it

ill try the primer pre start next time its funny you say that as i thought i opened the tank and let the vacume out once and it started better but i may have been wrong i guess thire is an o ring on the screw that gets old and stiff then when it gets moved can cause a leak

i do have a lift pump it pulls fuel from the 120L tank and feeds a smaller 7L tank where the stock lines feed/ret the diesel pump any extra fuel is overflowed to the 120L main so the small 7L is allways full and over flowing unless on a big lean with a half or so tank as the main tank is only 150 tall with a center pick up that easaly pulls air if tilted on an angle the reson for the small 7L sub tank thats 150x150x300 being tall and skinny it dose not suffer from being on angles so much anyways the pump should see some kind of pressre feeding it maby only 1 or 2 psi not sure if its enugh to push past the water trap and filter on the fire wall it may take the easy route and ret to the main tank not the long route might try a restriction in the ret line to help donno

well i dont have any sprcial tools for diesel work so the pump stays where it is at as for the cold start and advanceing the pump being better is seem more likely to be air of glows rather than timeing thats the place to look i think

by the way thanks for the help i appreciate it heaps cheers mate

[turbo this.. [OP]]

well had a poke around to try sort the rough cold idle problem thats recently come up

got a look at the glow plugs first up i checked for voltage at the rail sure enough 9-10v when the relay is clicked in 0v when times up as expected so i then took them out and wire wheeled them checked for there Resistance witch came out to be 0.25 ohms well that was the average they where pretty close i read some place it should be more like a few ohms? not sure the fact that they are almost a dead short is kind of worrying i did notice two of them have cracked insulators so think ill get a new set in there to be sure   
after that i stuck em on the battery to see em glow yep nice orange red glow only for a second once glowing tho not sure if they can over heat or what so just pulled em as soon as i seen them glow

it was at this point when i cranked the engine to blow any crud out the glow holes that i saw no diesel for a good second about the time it takes to fire up so thought hmm air bleeding in after shout off like old mate above said??? after the second or two of cranking i got diesel mist comeing out the glow holes but not straight away

glows back in rail cleaned up and contact points clean and firm but not over tight gave it a glow and cranked it awesome fired right up like the day i bought it so its gotta be a combined total of air getting in/fuel draining back and poor glows/contacts

i let it sit for a good few hours and as suggested i primed the fuel up on the hand pumper and it started better so that lead me to pull the return line to the tank off and poke it in a clear container bam the fuel coming back from the pump is full of air well i think its more than the tolerable amount of air if or what ever that may be so now i need to look for where its pulling air in it may be just a lose hose clamp might be in the pump donno might get to it tomorrow after work

out come so far is call up for a set of glows tomorow morning and after work trace the fuel lines and components for leaks hope its just pulling air past a hose clamp or something simple not inside the pump that will suck if so might have to put an electric pump to feed the main with a few psi or what ever it takes to make fuel come back down the return line to prime it before starting donno

also got my lights properly mounted up and wired in

looking at building a nice transfer case mount and some new engine mounts as all are sagging and floppy also some track ladders for the diffs my mate said you know your diffs are cranking the leaf packs around like crazy right? hmm i said might need to do something about that ive bent the rea leaf packs once already

with a few cheep weeks not spending much cash i might get some nice parts and make her flex and crawl a bit better its kinder hard as one thing makes other things not work so its an all in one go situation

dual cases, longer leaf packs with a bit more height, engine and transfer case mounts, drive/prop shafts, track bars, long travel shocks, new brake lines, 

so lots of cash and lots of parts to make a nice truck into a proper crawler  style

[tweake]

glow plug resistance is really low and unless you have a really good (expensive) meter they won't read low ohms that well.
sounds like your tracking the fuel problem along fairly well. a bit of clear fuel line is handy.

[turbo this.. [OP]]

Being an electrican by trade n haveing test equpiment for heating elemnts (hot water boilers) makes it easyer

[turbo this.. [OP]]

right had a poke at the fuel system

first up i replaced the rubber flex lines from the tank to hard line hard line to filter filter to pump i havent done the return lines as id see a leak there it would be wet as there should be a little "pressure" ie zero vacuum a tenth of a psi or something 

so it was not that.. next was the sediment trap and filter assembly bypassed that nope still getting the same amount of air in the clear return line tube

at this point im not feeling grate about this as it can only be in the pump now so tomorow i will try pressure feeding the pump and see if any diesel drips out anywhere and or the air goes away ill also pull the fuel screw out and replace the o ring seal and do my best to clean the sealing areas 

so not really happy about the air in diesel i dont like it when my cars are not sound

[tweake]

set the lift  pump up so it applies pressure to the IP.

what lift pump do you have ?

put a bit of clear pipe before the IP. tells you where the air leak will be.

[turbo this.. [OP]]

its just a cheep facet type 2-3psi
ill need a second pump to do that as the pumps purpse is to keep the tall skinny tank full so when im on big angles with a 1/4 or 1/2 tank the pump stays suplyed as the main tank pick up can pull air

pictures explain better

so the big 130L tank has two line to and from it the green represents out and yellow represents the return lines
the tall narrow tank is 7L it is where the main feed and return lines go

the way it works is fuel is drawn from the large tank down the green line drawn threw the filter then the faset pump and pushed into the small tank if the small tank is full if over flows down the yellow line to the main tank
the stock lines blue connect to the small tank at the bottom so are all ways feed with fuel
if the main tank if not completely full and on an angle the pick up can be above the fuel leval so the small tank supplys fuel as if nothing has changed

this works really well ive had the truck on some big hill climbs and never had a problem after all it will take a while to burn 7L of fuel Evan if your wide open throttle