Buget 85 hilux first 4x4 ever just goin for it weekend toy!!

[turbo this..]

well got the front done still no paint so looks ugly  if i get a day off this week it may get some jam

next is the back thats new territory to me so may be problematic really only wanting to re pack and set the wheel bearings with new seals n a healthy clean up inside the housing just a basic clean n seal job provided the internals look good

anyways pictures






wheel bearing grease nipple could have been a bit more out and maby if running steel rims might beable to leave it in place but ud have to drill threy the thicker bearing retaining cast part




those driveshafts n cv look really nice after seeing them i was all hmmm do i have a drill bit that long then looked at the cv and seen how long it was and the size needed ha good joke i thought thats a lathe job

some pics from the other week i want a go pro cam




the "travel limiters" that i call shock are giving me the irrits

[turbo this..]

little progress today
gotten the J arm ball flipped took a bit of messing around for anyone else doing or wanting to do it i found that if you grind the mushromed bit off till you see the circle where the two parts meet then center punch it drill about a 4mm pilot down about 3-4mm then grab a large bit that will come really close the the od on the ball pin take the down the 3mm or so and it should punch out doing this drilling releives the swolen part that toyota put in it by that i mean the ball pin is pressed in place then its smached in a die set to mushroom it and this seems to flare the arm open and really jam the pin evan after the top has been ground flat its still well stuck in there as the pin has been expanded a lot

anyways j arm is fliped and plug welded up going to check its fit and take some pics later in the week

i cut the shock mounts off and started fabricating extended ones to make my "short" shocks work with my range of travel and ride height

plan to use the front mounts on top of the rea housing to get those sorted and ill make some thing for the top to get the /  \ mounting that cheats the travel on the shock to be a touch more than | | 

might get my other 2 35s this week as well so that will be awesome

going to run an open diff in the rea now as the short time i ran with it welded on my new treads it seemed to round the tread blocks to fast n much for my liking might bight the bullet for a selectable locker down the track

rea 3rd member is now re assembled and ready i was amused by how nice it feels and its condition for a used item that was simply cleaned n rebuilt pinion has a nice Resistance to it smooth as back lash feels grate yet to measure it and check the pattern altho the marks on the teeth show a good parern so being back the same as it was should be just that id think

planing to do the dual stock TCs soon and make a nice flat crossmember as the stock unit is way low and is the first thing to go bang on stuff
not sure what ill do for prop shafts tho as the front will need to be longer and the back shorter might have a drive shaft place cut the ends off and shorten/extend them depending on cost

[84_yota_4wd]

Be careful with the j-arm flip and check it often my bud had his break going down the road! He ran it off in a ditch but no steering it could have been much worse!

Zip lockers are cheap and reliable for a selectable choice.

Check out a square drive line for the front bud

[turbo this..]

well some goof ball has put the knuckles on the wrong sides and now the calipers whont go on so going to sort that tomoro and hopefully get the axles propaly under the truck if i get time ill sort the mud flaps to keep the cops happy

ive cut the shock mounts off and have the intent to rase them to allow my current shocks to be back in there range of motion to then let it flex more ill rearrange the rea mounts as well going to use the front ones on top of the rea diff and then / \ to the round tube should give me the full drop/flex with the springs are capable of atm both f n r shocks run out of extsion and hole the travle up but have lots of compression travle so plan is to take some excess up travle and put into down travle 

other pair of 35s are on there way cant wait for a full set and the new diff ratios should be good altho im going back to open rea diff as the black top is rounding the new rubber way to fast for my likeing only 3-4 trips and i can see the corners rounding ill just have to learn to pick lines better and not rely on the truck pushing its self up things

i do check the truck over each time i return from a trip as i grease and de mud things im a guy who must have a mechanically sound truck

might have a look n see what went bang in the front diff aswell be some good pics ime guseeing cv or locking hub good reminder that 3k rpm low4 droping the clutch on a bad mud bog is a bad idea haha live n learn i guess good thing about have it as a toy and not needing it week days

[turbo this..]

front axle is in just needs shock mounts welded on (will do if morning) rea axle has the better geared 3rd member in with open center (welded seems to hard on new tyers ) reused the housing/axle/brake ends just to keep it simple for stupid..

so now its shock mounts to weld nd ill be done with what ive wanted to do for like 2 weeks

also ive goofed up my rea leaf packs ive bend the front up past flat and now the axle is twisted up so a wrap bar is in order and new leafs we got stuck in a bog hole to get out i had to "bag it up" as we aussise say not a good idea in 4L at 3500rpm (2L diesel) to drop the clutch busted somthing in the front diff only intermittent drive now and twisted the rea leafs but we got out haha not doing that one again 

got the knuckles swaped over to the correct sides aswell haha goof ball mistake 

[turbo this..]

got the new front diff in and the 3rd member for the rea while doing that found that ive bent my rea leaf springs on the last outing opps





so replacements and a torque bar is in order i think

if i can get some f150 2wd 80-90s leafs ill run those reversed i think if not make another b*std pack that might stand a change with the tourqe bar any thoughts or ideas for a budget high flex rea end?

[84_yota_4wd]

That sucks. chevy 63" rears are really common and a good cheap high flexing setup. search it a bit

[turbo this..]

been reading around and my under standing is the rea hanger needs moveing back or a double shackles now both of those i cant do as ive cut my frame behind the stock mounts

so i thought no problem ill just use the stock rea hanger and move the front one where it needs to be then shorten the prop shaft a good excuse to buy my dual TC adapter kit as that will need shortened/lengthened prop shafts anyways

after all i went the easy cheep way of dismantling the packs and re bending them i also put an over load in i think from a front leaf pack

trucks back in order just working on mud flaps then going to look at the stupid drag link arm i need more clearance to get at least the stock Toyota turning circle back haha atm its like one turn of the steering wheel so about a 50 foot circle ba haha or 15 point turn..

also got the last pair of my 35s wooo about time

[turbo this..]

happy snap

springs straightened, full set of 35s now, mud flaps and wheel arch rubber



going to have a look at a more free flowing exhaust/headers tomorrow

saving up for some more goodies..
correct length shocks it flexes much better with out shocks on but thats just crazy to drive with out em 
Winch and steel to make a custom front bar
dual TC adapter and long travel drive shaft kits
high clearance cross member and u bolt filps

[turbo this..]

getting more and more into the rocky hill climbs and tactical stuff

so im wanting D std TCs cos im a tight wad and ive got a spare TC sitting there so adaptor and a forwads to remote kit along with the cut n shunt driveshafts to match cross member needs to be sorted anyways as its a reall hanger and is the first thing to hang when going over big stuff so its defanlty getting the chop and hammer

im thinking about lifting the engine trans to match the cab lift that way the crossmember is 2" higher + what ever i can slim it down from the factory effort so hopeing to gain 2-2.5" on that would be awsome i just hope the center of gravity isnt a masive change?

ive been messing about in some water holes the kind that look ok but turn out deeper than expected haha put about 200mm of water in the cab with water lvl over the bonnet and tray fun stuff luckly didnt get my cumfy seeats wet

[84_yota_4wd]

Dual cases are the way to go bud. I love mine.

[turbo this..]

well enough is enough ive had it!
80km/h on flat road is bull stuff
im sick of driving 1/2 an engine around
it sure feels like its a 2 cylinder so turbo time!!

garbed a few bits today and few more coming in the next half a week or something with the thing driving in a week i hope depends on work if i get a few half days realistically it will be like 2 weeks haha

bought a new CT20 turbo (cheep cheep one) and part way into making a 4-1 tube manifold

planing to run non inter cooled 5-7 psi no idea what the waste gate is set for? ill check that when i get a chance

EGT gauge is on its way ill need it for setting the fuel and to keep an eye on it when out bashing it in mud or what ever when things could get nasty fast im told keep a sensible boost level and EGTs below a number and all will be sweet

[turbo this..]

bit tighter for space than i thought it would be

im trying to keep in mind that i want to raise the engine 1-1.5" and trans 1.5-2" or there about

ive got plains for a heat shield between the brake master cylinder and hot side as its about 2-3" away better safe than sorry

[turbo this..]

today's works







working on the turbo flanges now and getting the turbo in position then on to the dump pipe and get the exhaust as far as the pipe i have will allow it will be 2 1/4" from the turbo back probably straight pipe unless its way to loud deal with that when i get there flanges first

be nice to get an early day at work as i need some oil lines made n bits for the drain witch will be welded into the pan up as high as can be

not sure if ill plumb the water cooling part up on not if i do it will prob be "t"ed into the heater lines i guess

[tweake]

don't mean to be a kill joy but poor choice of manifold style. you simply won't have the heat to make it work well. combined with that turbo its not going to work well for 4wding,
its going to take a long time to spool up. i assume no boost comp so you really need the turbo to spool up very quickly and at low rpm.

you really want the runner lengths to be as short as possible. forget tuning, just keep it short and keep internal volume down as little as possible.
you should be able to pair the ports up to.

have a look at the 2lt-2 manifold. that design is close to spot on. tho yours will be a bit cooler gas flow i would keep it shorter still.

[turbo this..]

im not sure on diesel turbos only ever done petrol

ive chosen 30mm ID tubeing and taken the shortest route i could that keep heat from the alt and brake booster i was actualy thinking it might be to small but from experince with petrol builds this style short and long runners worked well to spool it early as its scavangeing effects are far better than the log style where the open exhaust valve dumps pressure into the next cylender to open up vs the "tuned" style where the valve opens after the pressure spike and has negitve pressure as the valve opens pulling more spent gas out like i said ive not turboed a diesel or messed with tuneing them only gas engines

i might stick the egt probe in close to the head and also where ill be putting in pre turbo at the flange to see what the diffrnce is alltho not sure as its only 1 cylender not all 4 so be 1-4 the volume of gass with the 3-4 time to cool off so probaly not a good way to mesure it anyhow

im still going with the planed route as im basically there so why not try it then change it if its crap? all i need to do is cut the flange and bolt it on do the oil lines and plumbing

i think the cast factory manifolds are for cost and ease of production with less thought to performance

no boot comp just the standard 2L pump as this is a bottom dolla build for weekend fun and thats about it ive got 2 other cars for dayly and other play car

[tweake]

with petrols the full length tuned style works as petrol has hotter egt's and can afford to loose a bit of heat. what it looses in heat it makes up in tuning.
with diesels being a lot cooler, the bigger volume of the tuned style cools down the exhaust gas to much and you loose drive on the turbo. especially on part throttle and build up where diesels run substantially cooler than petrols.


the factory 2lt-2 is a short tuned style. imagen yours shortened by half. ports 2 and 3 runners are very short and have a straight shot into the turbo for max drive. 1 and 4 are longer and go to the collector with a few bends.

the semi-extractor style is better than log style efficiency wise on a 4cyl but not often done on factory engines, probably due to the big amount of exhaust they need to flow out the egr port. mind you have a look at the big power house TD42 engines. 4.2 hitting 1000ft/lb of crank snapping torque. yet all the best ones run log manifolds.

worse case is your manifold will lead to cracked piston/head due to the overfueling when trying to get it up onto boost.
but its your time and effort.

[turbo this..]

i trust your correct with what your saying all tho i dont see much i can do at this stage besides finish the flanges and try it i dont see the point in hacking it up to make it a log style being so close to finishing it the things ive got left are the same things id need to do for any style manifold beside cutting the flanges and welding those on i hope that comes across that way i intend

i do have some heat wrap left from other builds ill use all that up on the headers to try keep some heat in besides that i can only think to have it heat coated along with the piston tops and intake valve for my other build but thats cash that im trying not to spend

regarding over fuel pre boost will that show as high egt before the boost builds? or is it a case of black diesel smoke then boots comeing in and it clears up? what im getting at is how can i try aviod damage from over fuel pre boost? besides the better style manifold could i ran with bearly enugh fuel for when its on boost to try reduce the pre boost fueling problem?

[tweake]

just to be clear, i don't mean make a log style. more of a short extractor style.

heat wrap may help a little but its the volume of the manifold which allows the gas to expand, cool and rather importantly slow down.
heat wrap might end up overheating the steel pipes, tho not sure as diesel run cooler.

you don't always see over-fueling as high egt's. the sensors take a while to heat up and boost can be up by the time it registers. wide band sensor is better for that.
black smoke is a good give away. you can keep the fueling down but that sort of defeats the whole point of the turbo. the only real way to over come the problem is be gentle on the throttle. easier said than done !

i have same thing with mine, however mine is 2.8 so flowing more through it from the start. even then its not overly quick at getting boost up.
the general rule of thumb if you don't have a boost comp then do everything you can to get the boost up as soon as possible.

[turbo this..]

when dose you 2.8 start boosting?

so today ive gotten a bit done the hot side pre turbo is complete just the dump pipe and connect into the muffler ive got the oil lines feed n ret done poped the pan cleaned welded in a tube for the oil ret so with that done i said screw it lets start it mad wistle witho out and cold side pipes and hot side straight out the turbo

tomorows works should see the dump pipe made and connedted into the muffler then ill start the cold side pipe work

still got the EGT sender to drill n tap into the hot side housing at the flange mount n wire the gauge in

it dosent really mean anything but the turbo starts wistleing at like 1500 in nutral just foling around dosent mean nothing ned the cold side plumbed and some load on it cant weight

[turbo this..]

o yeah while i had the pan off i checked for under crown oil cooling jets and yep its got a set of jets there so that good news also the bores look grate didn't pull any bearing caps and now im regretting that but ive not seen any oil pressure problems dum light goes out in a second or two on cold start hot start is almost instant so seems healthy with out a comp/leak down test

brake out the compound wood saw with fine tooth blade for the boost pipes to make bends

be awesome to have the first boosted drive before going back to work in 2 days

[tweake]

when dose you 2.8 start boosting?

good question. i can't remember exactly. depends a bit on what you call "start boosting". probably a few lb by 1500. hard to say as i rarely ever drive it under 2k. 12lb by 2k rpm.
next time i get it out i'll try to record it.

good to see it has oil squirter's.

[turbo this..]

dark out so no pics got carried away gettin her done shes boosting just a quick 2 min up the street n back 

gotta get the EGT setup and reading to turn the diesel a up few extra hangers on the exhaust possibly a resonator

yeah i was stoked when i seen the cooling jets

is 12 pound the stock setting for the square flange CT20 ? i dont want a boost gauge and have no idea what it is but from my under standing boost on diesel is some what controlled with the amount of fuel ie more fuel more ex gas to spool the turbo and the waste gate will set the max anyway

wish i had a shop to keep working on it under lights sun goes down n thats it game over

[OVRAROK]

Looking good, I'm watching

[tweake]

is 12 pound the stock setting for the square flange CT20 ? i dont want a boost gauge and have no idea what it is but from my under standing boost on diesel is some what controlled with the amount of fuel ie more fuel more ex gas to spool the turbo and the waste gate will set the max anyway

stock boost varies a bit as tuning varies over the years. but you have Chinese turbo and its probably set at 10 lb (mine was before it went).

[turbo this..]

well i got her moveing today first took a run without any more fuel was seeing about 500c max so was surprised about that so thought ill try some more diesel about an 1/4 turn in re adjusted the idle and went out seen 600-650c and a noticeable power gain no black smoke so added another 1/4 turn yep thats the power id be happy with no black smoke but she gets to 700c just as quick as the speedo climbs if you flat floor each gear by 4th gear at 3000rpm you gotta let up to the point where it whont hold the road speed you just worked up so defetes the point

so i pulled up and took the waste gate pipe off n blocked it that made if take a little longer to get to the 700c mark where u gotta let up but it also made it so i could maintain road speed so im thinking the extra boost from running 100% closed gate is cooling the burn down but also im sure the cheep cheep turbo is way inefficant and upping the boost only makes that worse so its IC time  im thinking that cooler charge will help the egts by getting it the air it needs to burn cleaner bringing the temp down i hope anyway

also the truck has allways taken ages to get to 70c or so and also once it got hot 90-100c it took ages of idleing around second gear low speed putting to bring it down to the 70c mark i found out why today the thermo stat is stuck part way open and also the rad was packed with mud down in the fins looked fine from a distance but if u got down and looked straight in u seen it i thought yay easy fix so rad out hosed it all out back flushed the rad and engine rad back in now waiting for a new t stat hope tomorow but prob no chance

im allso thinking an external oil cooler might help the engine survive as the oil is cooling the piston crowns so if i can pick up a cooler and lines sort of cheep and find a place to tap into the gallys maby a filter spacer donno i know there is a oil-coolant exhacnger but if the coolant is haveing truble staying below 90c then the oil must be at least 100-120c at my best guess

like i said ive never messed with diesel stuff so this is all new 

im thinking its time to check the local scrappy out for a top mount IC and scoop

hope the new t stat and cleening the mud is going to help the cooling system out

any ideas?







gotta dig in the parts bin for better fitting bst clamps the ones i found first dont really seal up fully so leak a litle boost not helping the cause

sorry guys should have taken more and better pics of the things ive made n done like oil pan drain EGT setup still working on the air box plumbing to feed the turbo also working on a catch can for the crank case vent to retrn pre turbo dump pipe stuff bla bla ill take some better ones when i get there more worried about the high EGTs and coolant atm

what about doing water/methalal mix fogger pre turbo? maby something that is powered by boost?

[turbo this..]

stock boost varies a bit as tuning varies over the years. but you have Chinese turbo and its probably set at 10 lb (mine was before it went).

well i ran it with the gate closed n line pluged it worked better to lower the EGT no idea what the boost went to tho 

[turbo this..]

ok so just done a bit of reading and put it this way its getting the biggest IC it can fit and ill rob the turbo mini for a temporary boost gauge just to be sure its not running silly boost levels that will be way out of the turbo efficiency island doing that should get the EGTs lower id like to see it peak at 600c and mostly stay near 350-450c mark when cruising around

[tweake]

well i ran it with the gate closed n line pluged it worked better to lower the EGT no idea what the boost went to tho 

you would have hit 25-30lb easy enough. i accidentally did that when boost control failed.
turbo is good for about 15lb, depending on quality! no point going higher than that.
a middle of the road IC will drop egt by 100c.

oil cooler might be interesting. there is good thread on one on aussie surf forum.
but i'm told the 2lt-1 do not have an oil pressure regulator in them. you may have to watch the oil pressure. but with the cooler it may mean you can use thinner oil which will give lower pressure when cold.

[turbo this..]

ohh thats not so bad then its more about the inefficacy then so ill rob the mini for its gauge and first find out the stock amount then maby bleed it to 15 or so might mess around with my thermo couples and see what boost it can make with out making more heat than desirable

for an IC im thinking about buying a core and makeing one to replace the grill  im seeing this truck now more likely to have a nice cleen cab swap done with no rust and nice paint

works lame atm to and from in the dark so no sunlight to work on it and not really feeling like it after long days