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After driving both I like my 20r better. It pulls harder and revs quicker. The crummy little 20r carb on mine runs better at extreme angles than the 22r I had too. The 20r carb always seems a little rich and has a lousey idle most days, but you can put it vertical or on it's side and it still goes. My 22r carb quit when laid on it's side.That's just my individual experience running both in stock form.I'm sure other guys will chime in here.If I were you I would set up the '80 for a driver/wheeler and cut up the '84 for a hard core rig.There is just something better about driving a 1st gen...
you mentioned bigger badder down the road, what about selling off one or the other and doing an RZ swap , just an idea. if your not concerned with power i say run the 20r on propane. 20r is a tough motor. power difference between a 20r an 22r offroad is not enough to matter from my experience
CA won't let you put the 20R in the 84 (smog) if you want to have it street legal.
get that 84 running and wheel it! sell the 80 to me : )
My 2c on the 20/22 R. For the street the 20R is best for all around power. Put a set of 22R pistons in it and have a ball, but the bottom of the powerband is not as torque as the 22R. The 22R has a better torque band from idle to about 2000rpm, a lot of grunt for crawlin'. Either engine will respond to a properly tuned downdraft weber. The 22R is easier to convert to EFI. Personally I like a 20/22R hybrid with a mild port job and bigger valves. With the right cam and tune you can make a stump puller. FYI the 20R head will bolt to an early 22r block (pre '85) with no mods and attain a higher compression ratio still street usable. The later block ('85 and later) can use the 20R head, but the compression drops of to turbo levels and the cam timing advances too far to be useable. To remedy, machine work has to be done to lower the cam height to head deck and the oil passage has to be recut, a lot of work to put the 20R on the late 22R block. I've gone too far, again. But both engine are good, but have different personalities. Just gotta figure out wich girl is right for you.
Little 20R is a trooper! Can't hardly kill it. Make sure all your coolant lines are in good shape though, overheating the R series is the easiest way to find out the limitations. I drove my '83 about 3 miles with NO water in the system. After blowing the hose I was curious what it could take. The last 1/4 was the final nail in the coffin. I'm sure you won't go this far, but the stock internals are good for 7000RPM all day long, but 7500 is a short fuse. That's info for that missed shift.
First off, how long has this truck been sitting? Did you allow it to warm up completely before you decided to check the plugs? Was the oily plug loose? Maybe seepage down the threads. Try a new set of plugs to get a more accurate idea what is going on, warm the engine up before you put them in. Consider an engine that sits for an extended period can develop many problems, like sticky rings. If the carb dried out so many things can be going wrong there, carbon buildup is one. I'm not too versed in propane, I do understand there is a dropoff in power. If you are planning on just running propane you could increase your compression ratio, look into the octane equivalent of propane to gasoline to get an idea where you can go with that. Where are you located?
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