Topic: full floater q's

[REG535]

Kinda confused lol. If I upgrade to a full float rear, and also change to a grizzly locker in the rear, or aussie or whatever. Using rear toyota hubs. Will the rear hubs have to be locked in all the time to go anywhere?

And, if unlock the hubs in the rear, will it move lol? does this make sense 
Then also if lock my front hubs in, it will fwd right (if i unlock the rear hubs?)

[IronClad]

yes the hubs have to be locked in.. thats the point of a locking hub lol..

[Toymin8r]

you could put drive flanges on it instead to keep it permanently locked.....or at least carry one as your spare in case you break hub.


If un-locked it will roll freely even if the truck is in gear.   Good for flat towing, or a cheap way to do a front dig with a toyota t-case.

[zembalayan]

I would like to hear from someone with actual experience how a truck with a welded/spooled full-floater rear axle with manual locking hubs handles onroad with one rear locking hub locked and one rear locking hub unlocked.  No doubt it will be different, and possibly feel as though the driven/powered wheel when on the the inside position of a sharp turning radius or path will want to push the inside rear corner of the vehicle up and drive through the turn, maybe--I don't know. 

When driving on the street in 2WD with one rear wheel hub locked and with a spooled/welded rear diff, I see possible advantages as follows:

It causes less tire wear than running full time spooled rear end with both hubs locked or flanged.

In the event of a single high speed rear tire blow out, this set up may minimize the effects of involuntary turning to the blown out tire side due to the instantly decreased tire radius of the blown side which would be locked to wheel with the intact tire.

Aside from converting to a full floater rear end, this set up is way cheaper than buying an ARB, but to a certain extent mimmicks how an ARB performs on and off road with a flip of a hub dial rather than an air actuated switch.

Experiences?
Thoughts?
Stupid?

[REG535 [OP]]

That would be good info also. Okay lets see if got it right, if I unlock the rear hub.. Can I still drive forward or backward? Or not all . with hubs also unlocked in the front.

So you could do front digs? that would be kinda cool hehe. I see the flat towing advantage. So to do front wheel drive I unlock the rear hubs and lock the front, do front digs maybe, etc? Am one the right path for the advantages, and stronger too.

Now with all 4 hubs locked in , it would be the same as being 4wd. Yes that would be kool arb functions but no airline. Umm now my question is on any locker, aussie, grizzly, etc, on the rear with the hubs. Can I unlock the rear locker for the street? then be open? i guess till confused ahaha

[Peterbuilt84]

You're over thinking it. If you use locking hubs on the rear it's just like the front axle, so think of how that works (when you lock and unlock the hubs) and it would be the same for the rear. I'm pretty sure most toyota setups I've seen with a full float rear use flanges though.

[toolman]

I have full float on mine and ditched the hubs for flanges. Has problems with them unlocking while driving, makes one hell of a noise and then you stop.

[Volcom]

I have full float on mine and ditched the hubs for flanges. Has problems with them unlocking while driving, makes one hell of a noise and then you stop.

My buddy had the same exact issue.  He's on drive flanges now.  It's not as much fun anymore.  I used to unlock his rear hubs while on the trail and he's be in FWD and not know it until he pulled up to an obstacle.

[Ghettofab88]

I would like to hear from someone with actual experience how a truck with a welded/spooled full-floater rear axle with manual locking hubs handles onroad with one rear locking hub locked and one rear locking hub unlocked.  No doubt it will be different, and possibly feel as though the driven/powered wheel when on the the inside position of a sharp turning radius or path will want to push the inside rear corner of the vehicle up and drive through the turn, maybe--I don't know. 

When driving on the street in 2WD with one rear wheel hub locked and with a spooled/welded rear diff, I see possible advantages as follows:

It causes less tire wear than running full time spooled rear end with both hubs locked or flanged.

In the event of a single high speed rear tire blow out, this set up may minimize the effects of involuntary turning to the blown out tire side due to the instantly decreased tire radius of the blown side which would be locked to wheel with the intact tire.

Aside from converting to a full floater rear end, this set up is way cheaper than buying an ARB, but to a certain extent mimmicks how an ARB performs on and off road with a flip of a hub dial rather than an air actuated switch.

Experiences?
Thoughts?
Stupid?

No it does not mimick an ARB.  You'd be way better off with an ARB if thats what your looking for.  When you only lock one hub, that side will want to push the rig around when your on the gas, and when you let off it will pull it the other way.  Its doable, but it'd get annoying quickly.

As far as I see it there are only two reasons to go full float:
1) You want locking hubs because you flat tow.  Its way easier to unlock hubs than pull the d-shaft.  Did this for a few years on my cj5.
2) Your looking for more strength.  Seperating the load carrying ability of an axle from its ability to transmit torque allows both areas to be stronger.  The axle is just designed to transmit torque and the housing and wheel hub are designed to carry the weight.  Almost all heavy duty trucks are full float for this reason.

One good side effect of the full float axle is if you do break a shaft you can allways pull it and cruise out on the other shaft.

So unless you need a stronger axle or you need the locking hubs for towing, there isn't much of a reason to go full float, espicially with how good toy rears hold up anyhow.

Kevo

[junya92toy]

That would be good info also. Okay lets see if got it right, if I unlock the rear hub.. Can I still drive forward or backward? Or not all . with hubs also unlocked in the front.

So you could do front digs? that would be kinda cool hehe. I see the flat towing advantage. So to do front wheel drive I unlock the rear hubs and lock the front, do front digs maybe, etc? Am one the right path for the advantages, and stronger too.

Now with all 4 hubs locked in , it would be the same as being 4wd. Yes that would be kool arb functions but no airline. Umm now my question is on any locker, aussie, grizzly, etc, on the rear with the hubs. Can I unlock the rear locker for the street? then be open? i guess till confused ahaha

Dude its real simple, just like the front if they are unlocked you arent going anywhere.

[Rocksurfer]

I have friends that have run them in both a Samurai and a Toyota, if you run a locker it will still move with one hub unlocked if you are open it will not move just as if you lifted a tire with open diffs. He has an e-locker and had to keep it locked in order to move when he had an issue with one of the hubs once. We had to get him off a rock garden to change the bad hub and unless he was locked in it had no power to the rear but still could move with front wheel drive but didn't like crawling that way. So we locked in the rear and it did fine. Even still it really didn't like the one wheel drive in the back, he said it pulled real hard to the side that was still good.