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Isn't it Sky that makes a full floater kit? It's spendy though from what I recall, like 700 bones. Is there a machinest here on the board that could make the adapter that bolts onto the housing, that the spendle bolts to? Then axles still have to be made.
Good point 79. That would save a couple bucks. Due to the higher volume of the rear calipers relative to drum brake wheel cylinders, you may want the larger 1" bore master cylinder to keep the pedal feel. FROR says it's not necessary so I guess I'm a skeptic.Are you running a T-case parking brake or thinking of just going without one if you do this full-float conversion?
im good at fabbing stuff so i might go to a bike shop and get a disc and caliper and make my own, cant stand having allpoo parts on my truck
ive done some mock ups and a set of long side inner 30spline bobbylongs would make the perfect shaft, then just the adapter
i was sure that would be a winner, , Zooky, are you running lockouts or flanges??
lockouts, I went with the full-floater to make flat towing easier, I just unlock the hubs and go. I am thinking of getting the 30-spliners for the front, then 3 of the 4 shafts will be the same which means less spares to carry (not that I would have many problems with 30 spliners in a samuari ) I am using FRORs hub studs also for the extra strength
now that looks sweetso rockrat how much
yea its front rangeoffroad, but the only thing they have in the kit is the shafts and the adapter i have most all the other parts and if you use a proportioning valve you could maybe use front solid axle calipers
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