Topic: Shocks

[WHITE_TRASH]

Fortunately Im not stupid enough to think that you could make a normal shock into a full on bypass shock, good thing I didnt say that isnt it.  I said you could make it act like one (look in my quote)  Ill betcha I could teach a hippo to roll over like a dog, dies that make it a dog no it just acts like it.



I had a nice long drawn out response written up for you but I dont see a reason to post it.  Im sure youd say I was wrong anyway.

[ntsqd]

I had a nice long drawn out response written up for you but I dont see a reason to post it. Im sure youd say I was wrong anyway.

Not necessarily, just what you're saying is contrary to what I've learned and observed.
Most dampers ARE leaned fwd and that does not make sense to me. As you compress the spring it flattens out. In doing that the housing moves slightly rearward b/c the front of the spring gets longer, which increases the angle of the damper. That reduces it's effectiveness. Unless there's something I'm missing.

[WHITE_TRASH]

On a long travel suspension the axle actually moves fore and aft a lot.  So by playing with the angle that the shocks are leaned forward at and at what degree they are leaned in at you can adjust how effectively they dampen.  When using an arched spring in the rear (Ill use mine as an example) the rear axle moves about 3" or so back from its normal location at ride height when its compressing the bumpstop.  When its at full droop it probobly moves forward 5".  So that means that in full stroke the axle makes 8" of movement fore and aft.  If the shock is leaned forward at a 20 degree angle it will have more dampening at full droop then it does at full stuff.

[guywithuglyyota]

wow, now im really confused. Hey Willy, I say mount them up and hit the trail!!!!  There is definately a science to this, well more like geometry/physics. I never got past geometry   

[ntsqd]

Full bump is where you want the most effective damping. Should you air out the truck you want the initial hit to be soft and then gradually ramp up the damping as the suspension compresses. Same with a sidehill potential flop. As the truck starts to roll over you want the damping to progressively get firmer on the downhill side. If you have it the other way around all you've got to 'anchor' with is the weight of the uphill wheels & tires. Not nearly enough mass.

[WHITE_TRASH]

My junk works, and it works damned good on the trail.  I dont worry about what theories people want to try I go with what I have proven to be a killer setup and run it. 

[Willy Mammoth [OP]]

Are you guys still arguing?

[WHITE_TRASH]

You get your damned shocks on yet willy? 

[Willy Mammoth [OP]]

  Got the front done, but waiting to see how the turns out.   I'm on call this weekend so we will see what happens or doesn't. 

[Bazzi]

I screwed up a litle on the hirunner. When I was mounting the rear shocks I was planing to mount them leaning forward. and then leaning towards the center like this./\  (just litle bit... mabe 1") but when I had mounted them and installed the coils and the haising I noticed the they both lean in the same direction. (like so //)  I found this hillaurius and kept it for show and tell. 

and W.T.
about the rancho 5112 or 9112
I am dreaming about the 9112 but I am not shure that I can afford them.
How are the 5112 are the softer or firmer??
I know that the 9112 are adjustable but is it worth the $$$$

[Bazzi]

Hum, so you are defining "progressive" as losing damping rate at the same rate that you are losing spring rate?

Sorry, don't buy it. Shackle angle plays a role in a lot of things, damper progression or digression is not one of them. I define "Progressive" as an increase in effective dampening rate from full droop to full bump. If the damper starts out leaned over and as the suspension compresses they become more verticle the effective damping rate increases. No way can mounting geometry ever make a damper position sensitive to the degree that a by-pass is. By doing it my way you get a mild increase near full bump, but nothing close to the sort of stiff damping/bumpstop effect that is possible with a by-pass damper.

ok as I see this If the damper starts out leaned over and as the suspension decompresses There is a litle drop force where the damper goes from leaning over to vertical(there is the damper decompresses with a smaller force on the haising) imagine a jump. (the haising drops easyer.)  But when you land the truck the damper is in a vertical possition and therefore he has much more force pressing the haising slower towards the truck. 

I have a litle difficultys talking about this in english but I am sure that you guys get the picture

[WHITE_TRASH]

Bazzi you want either 5012's or 9012's.  I have both.  The 5012's are pretty soft and if you were to run them in a /\ setup they would not do much.  If you are mounting them more vertical they will be fine.  5134's are the same length as 5012's but they are valved stiffer.  The 9012's are a decent shock, I run mine on 3 all the time I really like them.

[ntsqd]

Bazzi,
I think you might have it backwards, but I'm not sure. The more leaned over a damper is, the less effect it has. My point was to mount it in such a way that it is the most effective at full bump (fully compressed). So at full bump you would want the damper stood straight up.

[Bazzi]

you just said what I was thinking when I wrote the post..... Mabe I just used the wrong words.??    Hey I  just got my histeer arms from testing today and they where ok to iso standards

[ntsqd]

Could've been I didn't understand you either. Matters not as long as you're clear on the concept.

What ISO stds?

[WHITE_TRASH]

Bazzi is in Iceland.  They have to "approve" parts for road usage over there. 

[ntsqd]

Comprende!

[guywithuglyyota]

Speaking of shock length, I think I may have ordered shocks that are too long. The specs say 20" compressed and 35" extended. They will be going in the front with marlins hoops.   I guess they will work in the rear if they are too long. How much chrome should be showing on the piston???