rear locker

Started by stump jumper 85, August 24, 2011, 08:36:54 PM

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stump jumper 85

I have a 85 truck with  488 gears.  What is the best locker to get for off road and highway use.

jimbo74

detroit.... but there are tradeoffs, the detroit can be loud and clunky, some people don't liek that... also... it is not selectable..... some people want the ability to turn it on and off..... this is a really loaded question, i suggest you do some searching here, for what a locker is, what it does, and why it is desirable, or not desirable
:usa:

The cost of freedom is always high, but Americans have always paid it. And one path we shall never choose, and that is the path of surrender, or submission.

~ John F. Kennedy ~

93REDCRAWLER

Quote from: jimbo74 on August 24, 2011, 08:39:41 PM
detroit.... but there are tradeoffs, the detroit can be loud and clunky, some people don't liek that... also... it is not selectable..... some people want the ability to turn it on and off..... this is a really loaded question, i suggest you do some searching here, for what a locker is, what it does, and why it is desirable, or not desirable

X2

ajordan1975

Depends on where you live. If it snows a lot a selectable locker might be best for you. If it don't snow a lot then go w/ a Detroit.
1990 4Runner, SAS, 22re, 5spd, Dual stock cases, Locked f/b, interior cage

brainlessfool

good advice so far.  I like me detroit, butt it does clunk.
A good day working, that's just sick :reg:

Snowtoy

The best overall locker for trail and street is either an ARB or Toyota electric selectable locker.  A selectable locker will allow you to have an open diff on the street, so no noise, handling, or poor tire wear issues.  On the trail you only engage it when you need the extra traction, and once it is engaged both axles are locked together, until you disengage the locker.

The real issue between auto lockers and selectable is the price.  Figure about $1200 for the ARB locker/bench labor/ARB compressor, probably about $1000 to buy a used Toyota E-locker/bench labor, and somwhere around $4-600 for an auto locker/bench labor depending on the brand you buy.  Of course you can go even cheaper and weld the rear, probably run you about $1-200 in labor for someone to weld up the diff, but it isn't really recommended for a rig that spends a lot of time on the street.

If you have limited funds and have to have a locker now, go with an auto, if you can wait, go with a selectable.
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

stump jumper 85

gonna go with an auto just wondering about detroit vs grizzly

blackdiamond

I have a Detroit locker in the rear and drive my rig on a regular basis on the street and highway.  Between my 85 truck and current 89 SAS 4Runner I've made 6 or 7 trips from Washington State to Moab and 1 trip to the Rubicon.  The automatic locker can make driving in the snow interesting, but if you're in 4wd then the real issue is if you have a front locker or not.  Truck, in general, are not great on slick roads due to the lack of weight so using 4wd is always a safe bet, but my issue is that my front driveshaft isn't balanced enough to go more than about 30-35 mph without getting some serious vibrations.  If you're really on nasty roads 35 mph is probably a reasonable top end and if you want to go faster then 2wd with the locker hasn't been an issue for me.  You'll learn how to handle the locker on the street, it requires smooth application of the throttle mainly, it jerks and clunks with hard transitions.  Save your money for a manual front locker if you drive it alot on the street.  My Aussie locker in the front really makes driving on the snow scary if I can't just put the hammer down and have fun (i.e. away from other cars).
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

junya92toy

Its simple, quick lock is cheap, active all the time and you will learn how to drive with it fine in the ice, snow, wet road etc. No air lines to fail, no cables to break, no wires to short out.
A full detroit is all of that and more tough.

A selectable is big money, but you can turn it off, no need to unless its in the front.
What activates it can fail at some point.
It can fail, more moving parts, more chance for something to go wrong.
Dr.Maxwe001 – well i have a 15 gal compressor now and if I gett he 60  and then use the 15 as a reserve that wil give me 75 gal  thats close to 80 isnt it ?

GONZO97

get back on topic everyone is entitled to their own opinions,

Detroit which i have is very durable and i love it, very reliable
1997 4Runner Limited 3" lift on 31 M/Ts-Traded
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=61054.msg749103#msg749103
1995 Xtended Cab SAS on 35's Dual Cases-Sold
1991 4Runner SAS on 33s RUF 63's in the back Bilsteins all the way around, 5.29s front and rear Detroit locked Front and Rear http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=65180.0
1988 4Runner 3.0 V6--SOLD
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97592.msg1086573#msg1086573
1996 Toyota 4Runner 3.4 V6 3" OME Lift Springs 33" Duratracs

The Build:
Coming Soon

-Jake-

Here is my contribution.  I have e-lockers front and rear and love them.  Drove a 4runner in Alaska with a detroit in the rear and it wasn't bad at all on snow/ice.  I wouldn't run a detroit in the front unless you get longfields because if you break an axle it usually wipes out the detroit too.  Ask me how I know.  I found good deals on my e-lockers and geared them myself so it can be done on the cheap too if you take your time and find the deals.
81 Hilux, E-Lockers, 5.29s, Duals, 30 spline Longfields, 8274 Warn, 40" Iroks, F150s and RUF

stump jumper 85

guys i got a low budget truck that i just wanted to add a locker in the rear. Don't want air lockers. Should of been more clear, mostly wondering if I should get a grizzly or a Detroit.  I have plenty of experience with a rear locker in all conditions just wondered if one of these are better.

4RunnerChevy

Quote from: stump jumper 85 on August 28, 2011, 06:25:56 PM
guys i got a low budget truck that i just wanted to add a locker in the rear. Should of been more clear, mostly wondering if I should get a grizzly or a detroit.

Low budget, weld it, or spool, Spend the xtra on something cool

junya92toy

Ive ran a quick lock for a long time now, its cheap and works.
Dr.Maxwe001 – well i have a 15 gal compressor now and if I gett he 60  and then use the 15 as a reserve that wil give me 75 gal  thats close to 80 isnt it ?

gtoyonrocks

for on off road the best lockers are selectable, either an trd e locker or an arb would be best. There are other locker that are great but will all change the driving characteristics of your truck on the road.
1985 toy, Hybrid 20r/22r on propane, 30splines, custom built leaf packs, welded front and rear diffs, dual ultimate crawler, full hydro, full exo, flat bed, 37' mtrs

GONZO97

just do a detroit man, you will be happy with its performance and it wont break the bank
1997 4Runner Limited 3" lift on 31 M/Ts-Traded
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=61054.msg749103#msg749103
1995 Xtended Cab SAS on 35's Dual Cases-Sold
1991 4Runner SAS on 33s RUF 63's in the back Bilsteins all the way around, 5.29s front and rear Detroit locked Front and Rear http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=65180.0
1988 4Runner 3.0 V6--SOLD
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=97592.msg1086573#msg1086573
1996 Toyota 4Runner 3.4 V6 3" OME Lift Springs 33" Duratracs

The Build:
Coming Soon

yoshaleng

according to Chris at Marlins shop.....Grizzly is same thing as Detroit. They're both soft lockers so you will get minimal noise. I run detroits front and rear but would consider Grizzly if they are the same. If you want more info, just call the company or call Marlins sales office.

blackdiamond

Quote from: YosHaleng on September 12, 2011, 08:27:11 AM
according to Chris at Marlins shop.....Grizzly is same thing as Detroit. They're both soft lockers so you will get minimal noise. I run detroits front and rear but would consider Grizzly if they are the same. If you want more info, just call the company or call Marlins sales office.

The same meaning a Detroit with a different name stamped on it or just a nearly identical design?  I have no problem with a Grizzly, but just because they are essentially identical in design doesn't make them equal.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

BadnewsBob

Grizzly is a detroit but they computer modeled it and addressed any weak spots in a detroit and made them stronger. So grizzly = stronger detroit.    They did the same thing with the spartan lockers.....Made an aussie locker stronger.
AE2 USN ret
No matter where ya go..... there ya are.
Hillbilly Offroad
84 xtra cab on 63" chevies and RUF 35" KM2s 22R 5 speed DTC 5.29s Locked front and rear.

blackdiamond

Quote from: BadnewsBob on October 10, 2011, 04:56:46 PM
Grizzly is a detroit but they computer modeled it and addressed any weak spots in a detroit and made them stronger. So grizzly = stronger detroit.    They did the same thing with the spartan lockers.....Made an aussie locker stronger.

Where's the documentation for this?  After all, Detroits are known for being "weak" lockers...
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

daniresch

I have grizzly front+rear daily and have been very happy with them. Drove down to the Rubicon from Portland, Oregon no problems. I hear a clunk about once a month, and wheel it weekly. They are very predictable. Always heard good things about Detroit as well.
1988 Blue Std Cab: SAS, Longs, HP/ARB/5.29 Front, ARB/5.29 Rear, Marlin Dual Ultimate w/ 23 Spline MC07XD-R10, Marlin 30 Spline Front & Rear Output Shafts, Dave's Triple shifter, FROR crossmember, Bilstein 12" f+r, RUF w/ 63s, 7in bob, 40x13.5x17 MTR's on Racelines Monster Beadlocks 17x9.5

build: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=80954.510

BadnewsBob

      

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Re: rear locker
« Reply #19 on: Yesterday at 09:51:34 PM »
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Quote from: BadnewsBob on Yesterday at 04:56:46 PM
Grizzly is a detroit but they computer modeled it and addressed any weak spots in a detroit and made them stronger. So grizzly = stronger detroit.    They did the same thing with the spartan lockers.....Made an aussie locker stronger.

Where's the documentation for this?  After all, Detroits are known for being "weak" lockers...


It is in grizzly's brochure/adds


Not that detroits are weak, they are not, but computer aided drafting can make an original part stronger.

AE2 USN ret
No matter where ya go..... there ya are.
Hillbilly Offroad
84 xtra cab on 63" chevies and RUF 35" KM2s 22R 5 speed DTC 5.29s Locked front and rear.

junya92toy

Ooooo so anything you read is true? Give me a million bucks
Dr.Maxwe001 – well i have a 15 gal compressor now and if I gett he 60  and then use the 15 as a reserve that wil give me 75 gal  thats close to 80 isnt it ?

blackdiamond

Let me preface this by saying that I run Yukon ring & pinion gears in my 4Runner and consider it to be a great product.  I'm fairly certain that Yukon is "house brand" for Randy's Ring & Pinion.

Now, it sure sounds like the Yukon lockers are designs that have been "borrowed" from the other manufactures.  As we're learned from Marlin's competiton, just because someone claims they a stronger/better product doesn't mean that they do.

It's as much about materials as it is the design.  You can have a better design on paper, but if you use the wrong materials, it may not be a better product.  The fact that Yukon has chosen the Detroit and Aussie lockers should provide some clue as to the company that Yukon considers their top competition.

I'd like to see Bobby Long do some testing...he does a great job of breaking things in a controlled and measured way.

1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

BadnewsBob

Yep I am going by what I read.....And sarcasm is a fun thing......I know several people running Yukons lockers including myself and so far zero breakage, Only time will tell.
AE2 USN ret
No matter where ya go..... there ya are.
Hillbilly Offroad
84 xtra cab on 63" chevies and RUF 35" KM2s 22R 5 speed DTC 5.29s Locked front and rear.

81 toyota

go with detroit its the best  :bowdown:

stupid fast

grizzly is supposed to be stronger from what yukon claims, also its a much more softer engagement than the detroit.