Topic: 22re running not running well?

[tanman85]

Fellas i got to get some help.  My 4runner is running poorley.  To start, I had a bad gas tank and lines that i have replaced, now the with that all buttoned up i put good gas in it I and fired it up.  when i push the gas pedal it it coughes and spudders.  It will idel somewhat and rev up but between 2 and 3 thousand rpms it is rough and then at higher rpms it runs good.  It will run well enough to make it out of the driveway but has no power to make it up the steep hill on my street.   It also seems like it might be getting progressivly worse, could just be me?  Im taking a break from my gas tank install, so i though i would get a few ideas on what to tackel first. 

A little back ground on the truck bought the truck not running, it had not ran for 6 months so said the prior owner?  i got it home put gas in it to find a small puddel on the ground.  replaced that and a fuel line and a fuel pump.  Almost positive that it is on correct.  So the truck did run with the old gas tank wich i found out later was very dirty. 

So my first though to diagnose the truck is spark plugs.  The timing might be off.  Or there might still be a bunch of trash somewhere in the fuel system.  Haha or all of it!!?



Thanks guys!

[Wopstar]

Change the fuel filter out.  If the tank was that dirty it could have clogged up the injectors also.  Try to get them cleaned or replaced with some flow matched injectors.  It may be a good idea to flush all the lines and the fuel rail if the tank was really dirty inside. 

[clifford91]

I would tend to agree with wopster. It's a pain to get to because of where the genius engineers put the filter but it can be done without removing any of the intake stuff, but prepare for a headache. that's your most probable culprit, followed by dirty injectors, which are easy to remove and clean, or remove and replace.

I would get yourself some feeler gauges and do a valve adjustment, just cause it's pretty easy to do and will only help the issue. Make sure you're running all factory stuff, plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, on Toyota's it's worth the money to run factory cause of durability and improved performance, unless you're running MSD ignition and such.

Just incase you don't have a shop manual, On the valve adjustment it's real easy. If you can get a set of go-no-go feeler gauges, makes it easier, as well as a valve adjustment wrench. If not, a 12mm wrench and screwdriver work fine. Get the engine warm. Pull the bracket with all your vacuum valves off and just fold it over onto the intake, then pull your valve cover off. Turn the crank to Top Dead Center for Cylinder 1. Cylinder 1 rockers should be loose. Then make the adjustment on intake valves on cylinder 1 and 2, and exhaust valves on cylinder 1 and 3. Loosen the nut on top of the rocker and either tighten or loosen the screw, then tighten the nut back down, then recheck clearance. Turn the crank over once (360 degrees) and adjust intake valves on cylinder 3 and 4, and exhaust valves on cylinders 2 and 4.

Double check all clearances after you've tightened the nuts back down and before you turn the crank over again.  your clearances should be on your emissions tag, in case it's missing it's .20 mm (0.008 in) on intake, and .30mm (0.012 in) on exhaust.

Let us know how all goes.

Andrew.

[Wopstar]

I would tend to agree with wopster. It's a pain to get to because of where the genius engineers put the filter but it can be done without removing any of the intake stuff, but prepare for a headache. that's your most probable culprit, followed by dirty injectors, which are easy to remove and clean, or remove and replace.

I would get yourself some feeler gauges and do a valve adjustment, just cause it's pretty easy to do and will only help the issue. Make sure you're running all factory stuff, plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, on Toyota's it's worth the money to run factory cause of durability and improved performance, unless you're running MSD ignition and such.

Just incase you don't have a shop manual, On the valve adjustment it's real easy. If you can get a set of go-no-go feeler gauges, makes it easier, as well as a valve adjustment wrench. If not, a 12mm wrench and screwdriver work fine. Get the engine warm. Pull the bracket with all your vacuum valves off and just fold it over onto the intake, then pull your valve cover off. Turn the crank to Top Dead Center for Cylinder 1. Cylinder 1 rockers should be loose. Then make the adjustment on intake valves on cylinder 1 and 2, and exhaust valves on cylinder 1 and 3. Loosen the nut on top of the rocker and either tighten or loosen the screw, then tighten the nut back down, then recheck clearance. Turn the crank over once (360 degrees) and adjust intake valves on cylinder 3 and 4, and exhaust valves on cylinders 2 and 4.

Double check all clearances after you've tightened the nuts back down and before you turn the crank over again.  your clearances should be on your emissions tag, in case it's missing it's .20 mm (0.008 in) on intake, and .30mm (0.012 in) on exhaust.

Good tips.  Probably want to at least inspect the cap, rotor, wires, plugs etc...  I always like to do a standard tune-up when I get a new vehicle just cause you really don't have any history of when this was done, if ever!!  Plus it is a pretty inexpensive way to eliminate stupid issues.

[yotaneck13]

id change the fuel filter and run some injector cleaner through ur fuel system first thing since it had bad gas the replace plugs and wired cap and rotor then adjust valves and timeing as needed

[Jaysen]

I had almost the same issue and and end up to be the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor) it wouldnt open and close right so I wasnt getting the right fuel mixture! Just something to think about!