Author Topic: 83 22r rejecting oil filters (Read 11429 times)

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #60 on:** Jan 20, 2011, 07:30:42 AM »

Did you check the block with a straight edge and feeler gauges? I got burned on this before.

I've heard that if you put the HG on wrong it will leak oil, or block a passage, I can't remember which.

RossGo · « **Reply #61 on:** Jan 20, 2011, 04:45:40 PM »

Should I put oil on the new head bolts during install?

zippo · « **Reply #62 on:** Jan 20, 2011, 04:54:29 PM »

I would put a little on teh threads only. If i remember the FSM also calls for the threads to be oiled. The progressivly tighter stages from the outside in.

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #63 on:** Jan 20, 2011, 09:51:28 PM »

make sure to put the dab of permatex on the the block like it says in the service manuel

RossGo · « **Reply #64 on:** Jan 20, 2011, 10:13:44 PM »

So to make sure I don't waste anymore money, can you list ANYTHING I should do other than...
Lightly oil threads of head bolts
Torque to 60 ft lbs in proper pattern

Thanks

Dr.Maxwe001 · « **Reply #65 on:** Jan 20, 2011, 10:51:38 PM »

look at the seal behind the thing that the oil filter scres up to there is a seal on it that keeps oil out

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #66 on:** Jan 21, 2011, 11:45:02 AM »

Quote from: maxwe001 on Jan 20, 2011, 10:51:38 PM

look at the seal behind the thing that the oil filter scres up to there is a seal on it that keeps oil out

what the heck are you talking about Jeff??

Ross, lightly oil the threads, always start torqueing the head bolts from between #2 and #3 cylinders and work out from there. do you have a haynes manual??

Sparkplug · « **Reply #67 on:** Jan 21, 2011, 11:53:00 AM »

Torque to 20, 30, 40, 50 then final torque, the the correct pattern. Make sure Head bolt holes are clean, and lishtly oil the threads on the NEW bolts. Make sure to set rockers on evenly and nicely. Make sure to put in the bolt in front of head that goes to timing cover. Make sure the dot on cam gear sits at 11:55 when you put cam gear on. Adjust vavles best you can before you run it. Other than that, should be pretty straight forward.

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #68 on:** Jan 21, 2011, 02:02:07 PM »

valves should never be adjusted cold there spark

Dr.Maxwe001 · « **Reply #69 on:** Jan 21, 2011, 02:08:43 PM »

never mind Glen I am thinking of the little O ring that sites behind the little oilfilter adapter but this on a chevy 350 not a 22r

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #70 on:** Jan 21, 2011, 02:17:25 PM »

intake should be .008 inches and exhaust .012 measurements should be made with engine hot and idling

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #71 on:** Jan 21, 2011, 02:22:32 PM »

Exhaust Manifold Torque
Procedure:
33 ft./lbs.

Intake Manifold Torque
Procedure:
14 ft./lbs.

Note: Starting at center and working outward, alternate tightening all fasteners evenly.

zippo · « **Reply #72 on:** Jan 21, 2011, 02:38:32 PM »

Quote from: yotaneck13 on Jan 21, 2011, 02:17:25 PM

intake should be .008 inches and exhaust .012 measurements should be made with engine hot and idling

Its really hard todo it running, hot/warm and off is close enough...

Sparkplug · « **Reply #73 on:** Jan 21, 2011, 02:44:20 PM »

you should adjust them as close as you can cold, to get it close. Unless you wanna keep playing with cam timing cause they so lose reads 0 on comp gauge, causing you 5 hrs of work to try and fig out prob, come to find new head valves so loose from start( YEAH IT HAPPENED). So i adjust em close as I can cold, then run engine to warm, re adjust.

RossGo · « **Reply #74 on:** Jan 21, 2011, 09:16:41 PM »

Got the HG on today.
Just have to finish up the random things we had to pull off, but I ran out of time and light today.
The Toyota HG was so much nicer than the Felpro. Oil ports were decently larger, which could be extremely beneficial to the problem. It also had sealer already around the timing chain hole.
I have a Haynes manual, but I use the Toyota manual I have mostly.
Lightly oiled bolts, and torqued in 4 steps - hand tight, 20, 40, 60

kneedownnate · « **Reply #75 on:** Jan 21, 2011, 10:29:02 PM »

Quote from: yotaneck13 on Jan 21, 2011, 02:02:07 PM

valves should never be adjusted cold there spark

BS! Toyota pickups used to come with 2 settings for valve adjustment: cold and hot. As has been said, you get it close cold so you don't jack up anything, then adjust them when the engine is at normal running temp.

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #76 on:** Jan 22, 2011, 08:25:33 AM »

hey im jus telling you what my factory training in toyota courses told me and the 22r and 22re should never be adjusted cold

Sparkplug · « **Reply #77 on:** Jan 22, 2011, 11:05:09 AM »

Just saying if they not adjusted cold, they can be so off that the motor will BARELY run, if at all. So sometimes it is needed to adjust to even run the engine to get it to warm temp. Also did not know toyota was still giving training on 22r or re engines.

kneedownnate · « **Reply #78 on:** Jan 22, 2011, 07:57:05 PM »

Exactly. I'm thinking you missed something in your education, because you HAVE to have a baseline to start from. Not trying to talk down to you, but I've worked with and met tons of mechanics, and it never ceases to amaze me how many of them do things wrong or misconstrue their teachings.

BUDDERS · « **Reply #79 on:** Jan 22, 2011, 08:47:05 PM »

Quote from: kneedownnate on Jan 22, 2011, 07:57:05 PM

Exactly. I'm thinking you missed something in your education, because you HAVE to have a baseline to start from. Not trying to talk down to you, but I've worked with and met tons of mechanics, and it never ceases to amaze me how many of them do things wrong or misconstrue their teachings.

Very true Nate, I was a master tech for years for Toyota and Lexus and I can't tell you how many old timers did things wrong. I worked with a guy back in '97 who was tourquing 3.slow headgaskets with his 3/8" impact wrench

- and if he talked to you, he sounded so smart you'd think he was a rocket scientist. He eventually blamed enough people for HIS comebacks that his whole team turned on him and got him canned - and that's just one example.....

yotaneck13 · « **Reply #80 on:** Jan 23, 2011, 06:14:02 PM »

ill jus stop offering my help this thread is starting to turn into pirate4x4

RABIDYOTA · « **Reply #81 on:** Jan 23, 2011, 06:52:10 PM »

proper adjustment yes must be done on a warm engine but how do you get the engine warm with out doing a base adjustment to get it running

?? just be sure to adjust them a little on the loose side get the engine to temp then do your final adjustment and if this was turning in to pir. you would start seeing

and we dont have the same smilys

RossGo · « **Reply #82 on:** Jan 23, 2011, 07:36:45 PM »

Quote from: yotaneck13 on Jan 23, 2011, 06:14:02 PM

ill jus stop offering my help this thread is starting to turn into pirate4x4

Your help has been much appreciated and I thank you.
But I will say that the book I have from Toyota says to do it cold, then again at running temp

86bobbedtoy · « **Reply #83 on:** Jan 23, 2011, 08:11:02 PM »

get it back together yet?

RossGo · « **Reply #84 on:** Jan 23, 2011, 08:12:30 PM »

Just have to do air cleaner and accompanying lines.
Had to stop to take delivery of a 93 cab/frame/flat bed
Then it was dark and freezing

kneedownnate · « **Reply #85 on:** Jan 24, 2011, 11:56:22 AM »

Get it going mang, I'm really curious to know if it's going to be good to go now

Also forgot, don't tell them they did it wrong, but my fsm for my high rpm motorbike calls for the valves to be adjusted cold

RossGo · « **Reply #86 on:** Jan 24, 2011, 01:51:33 PM »

New HG did NOT fix it! I repeat. DID NOT!!!
I am out of ideas.
Who knows of an affordable way to ship a motor?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #87 on:** Jan 24, 2011, 01:56:27 PM »

sounds liek you probably have a clogged oil passage then.....

RossGo · « **Reply #88 on:** Jan 24, 2011, 01:59:46 PM »

Does anyone know of a writeup to remove oil passages from the oil pan?

jimbo74 · « **Reply #89 on:** Jan 24, 2011, 02:04:02 PM »

the passages arent in the pan, they are in the block... not something you can remove.....

did you ever use silicone sealant with the old head gasket?

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