Author Topic: Rear Toyota discbrake (Read 21094 times)

boggerunner · « **Reply #30 on:** Dec 29, 2010, 09:27:25 PM »

here is the link on pirate, its davez brakets, not tg's
post # 22

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=931049

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #31 on:** Dec 29, 2010, 09:39:45 PM »

those brackets also use nuts to space the bracket out from the axle backing plate flange. I still feel this is a bad idea.

boggerunner · « **Reply #32 on:** Dec 29, 2010, 09:43:37 PM »

Quote from: 79coyotefrg on Dec 29, 2010, 09:39:45 PM

those brackets also use nuts to space the bracket out from the axle backing plate flange. I still feel this is a bad idea.

i would rather have a nut in there, than a 1/4" plate spacer

Sparkplug · « **Reply #33 on:** Dec 29, 2010, 09:45:03 PM »

can u explain why you feel a nut as a spacer is a bad idea? Just curious.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #34 on:** Jan 01, 2011, 08:16:10 AM »

Quote from: Sparkplug on Dec 29, 2010, 09:45:03 PM

can u explain why you feel a nut as a spacer is a bad idea? Just curious.

well, look at the stock front brakes. they are held on by a 14mm bolt(17mm head) into a caliper mount almost 3/4 inch thick. Toyota did it that way because under high traction, with big tires, a loaded rig, and panic stomping of the brake pedal that little 10mm bolt with the nut spacing it out away from the mount will shear off like a donut at a cop convention.

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #35 on:** Jan 01, 2011, 09:04:23 AM »

Quote from: 79coyotefrg on Jan 01, 2011, 08:16:10 AM

well, look at the stock front brakes. they are held on by a 14mm bolt(17mm head) into a caliper mount almost 3/4 inch thick. Toyota did it that way because under high traction, with big tires, a loaded rig, and panic stomping of the brake pedal that little 10mm bolt with the nut spacing it out away from the mount will shear off like a donut at a cop convention.

I agree, no matter how the caliper is clamped down, the bolt is still being used in shear. You could tighten it down against anything, when you hit the brakes, the bolts gets a shear load. The only way to get more out of the bolt, is if the shear load was entirely on the shoulder instead of the threads.

I like the caliper mounts.

boggerunner · « **Reply #36 on:** Jan 01, 2011, 09:45:30 AM »

but do u see how daves and mine use 3 bolts and the other uses 2 bolts, i still feel safer with 3 bolts spaced out by the nut.
and i did plenty of tests with stomping on the brakes on 37" mtrs and locking them up, never had a problem.

4RunnerChevy · « **Reply #37 on:** Jan 01, 2011, 10:07:15 AM »

3 is always better than 2

81_yota · « **Reply #38 on:** Jan 01, 2011, 02:54:05 PM »

i would also have to agree 3 is better then 2 but still idk about the nut as spacer but at same time heckits only a spacer if worried about bolts sheering use grade 8 bolt fear gone

theslayer85 · « **Reply #39 on:** Jan 19, 2011, 08:24:33 PM »

This is sweet, i have some ifs calipers sitting around and for $50 i can do rear disks. That beats the $300 to $400 kits everyone sells.

theslayer85 · « **Reply #40 on:** Jan 24, 2011, 07:54:02 AM »

Quote from: toyota41180 on Dec 14, 2010, 07:27:44 AM

here is a place i picked up the brackets i'm using http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=9&sort=2a&page=2 they got a few different ones to choose from

so i looked up these brackets and really like them. it states that you need to use '87-95 IFS calipers and '95.5-'03 Tacoma rotors. I read on another fourm that they used 85 rotors and calipers, however they used a different bracket. I like the ruff stuff brackets because they don't use a spacer and are bent, but i would rather use '85 rotors and calipers because i already have them and it would match the front. What did you use, and is there a differnce between the 85 & 86 calipers to the newer 87 - 95? Will 85 rotors work in place of the 95.5-03 rotors?

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #41 on:** Jan 24, 2011, 09:13:08 AM »

85 rotors are solid, 86 rotors are vented

Techtafab · « **Reply #42 on:** Feb 03, 2011, 04:46:01 AM »

wow lets slam the other guy on the forum board !

all pm's and emails have been replyed to thanks guys

Techtafab · « **Reply #43 on:** Feb 03, 2011, 05:01:36 AM »

got in to toyota crawlers in 2003
been making parts for the guys around here from then and still doing it !

and i have never sold and parts on ebay for crawlers
i'm the little guy that makes parts and buys parts
could not tell you how many marlin doubler boxes i have put together
there is a lot of room out there and i do not feel i should talk down on a guy trying to sell
his stuff for pennys on the dollar. thats all i have been hearing (his stuff is double the cost of mine)
OK !!!! sell yours for what you what to !
i will not get into a price war with anyone !
i have a ton of R&D in my stuff and they are not a cooky cutter part

lets see how long it takes for this post to get deleted !!!
I'M NOT SELLING ANYTHING WITH THIS POST !!!!!!!!!

boggerunner · « **Reply #44 on:** Feb 03, 2011, 02:39:50 PM »

Why do u keep insisting that I sell brackets on eBay
I don't even have an eBay account
As for being cookie cutter parts, I love cookies
Especially chocolate chip

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #45 on:** Feb 03, 2011, 08:18:56 PM »

Quote from: Techtafab on Feb 03, 2011, 05:01:36 AM

got in to toyota crawlers in 2003
been making parts for the guys around here from then and still doing it !

and i have never sold and parts on ebay for crawlers
i'm the little guy that makes parts and buys parts
could not tell you how many marlin doubler boxes i have put together
there is a lot of room out there and i do not feel i should talk down on a guy trying to sell
his stuff for pennys on the dollar. thats all i have been hearing (his stuff is double the cost of mine)
OK !!!! sell yours for what you what to !
i will not get into a price war with anyone !
i have a ton of R&D in my stuff and they are not a cooky cutter part

lets see how long it takes for this post to get deleted !!!
I'M NOT SELLING ANYTHING WITH THIS POST !!!!!!!!!

I dont see a need for it to be removed

possume22 · « **Reply #46 on:** Feb 04, 2011, 05:54:09 AM »

i run into a problem running solid rotors in back if you get any play in your bearing or just wheel hard it will ruin you caliper and pads fast where they are solid mounted so i used the same brackets and used chevy rotors and calipers from a s10 and havent touched them in two years

Techtafab · « **Reply #47 on:** Feb 04, 2011, 09:42:02 AM »

Quote from: possume22 on Feb 04, 2011, 05:54:09 AM

i run into a problem running solid rotors in back if you get any play in your bearing or just wheel hard it will ruin you caliper and pads fast where they are solid mounted so i used the same brackets and used chevy rotors and calipers from a s10 and havent touched them in two years

thats how the front is done from toyota so thats wrong ?

but thats cool this might not be for you !!

possume22 · « **Reply #48 on:** Feb 04, 2011, 01:29:08 PM »

nope it works in front you can adjust the wheel bearing load so there isnt any play like i said i had problems with that setup in the rear when wheeling hard with 42s i dont think they would be any trouble with them on a street trail truck

Techtafab · « **Reply #49 on:** Feb 07, 2011, 04:42:53 AM »

humm guess i need to learn how to wheel hard with big tyers

OOPS · « **Reply #50 on:** Feb 07, 2011, 08:31:58 PM »

Quote from: 81_yota on Jan 01, 2011, 02:54:05 PM

if worried about bolts sheering use grade 8 bolt fear gone

Not always, in a shear situation a grade 8 bolt will snap faster then a grade 5. Grade 8 is harder and has more of a tendency to break, where a grade 5 is softer and more elastic, so it has more give to it.

OOPS · « **Reply #51 on:** Feb 07, 2011, 08:40:35 PM »

Quote from: possume22 on Feb 04, 2011, 01:29:08 PM

nope it works in front you can adjust the wheel bearing load so there isnt any play like i said i had problems with that setup in the rear when wheeling hard with 42s i dont think they would be any trouble with them on a street trail truck

That is the play in the bearing cup, when the axle is bolted in the is a small gap between the bearing and the housing end. You need to figure out what the gap is and fill it with a shim behind the bearing in the cup. My rear discs work fine on road, offroad with all the twisting it pushes the pads apart and I have to pump the brakes.

possume22 · « **Reply #52 on:** Feb 07, 2011, 09:15:08 PM »

humm guess i need to learn how to wheel hard with big tyers
it looks like you wheel hard nice buggy i never thought about the play coming from the bearing cup but will look into that.never really understood how with new bearings and hard wheeling my rotors would eat into my calipers so thats why i went to the chevy setup

oops are you running plastic or metal brake lines

OOPS · « **Reply #53 on:** Feb 07, 2011, 09:55:55 PM »

Quote from: possume22 on Feb 07, 2011, 09:15:08 PM

oops are you running plastic or metal brake lines

Metal except in the front from the frame to the caliper and in the rear from the frame to the axle I have S.S. flex.

possume22 · « **Reply #54 on:** Feb 08, 2011, 09:45:43 AM »

ok thanks i couldnt tell from the pic

Related Topics