Idea for better frame tube alignment

Started by PhantomD aka Zach, January 26, 2010, 11:09:05 PM

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PhantomD aka Zach

I stuck this in the newb section because I have yet to actually install a set of frame tubes but my good friend has done 3-5 SASs and always talks about how much of a PITA they are, here is my idea...

1: tack the front spring hanger in place for reference
2:Build A PAIR of long pieces of steel/aluminum to align the frame tube in the frame (the exact distance from the front spring hanger to the frame tube)
3: bolt long strips of metal to front hanger and then to rear frame tube
4: tack frame tube into frame
5: remove alignment jig and finish welding
3: repeat on the other side.

I hope that makes sense, basically you are insuring that the frame tubes are square to the spring hanger...

the downside is the cost of materials and if bought/rented the weight and shipping length would be large.

as I said I have yet to actually use the alignment jigs that are so popular, but from what I have seen and heard this is not an easy process and can lead to many headaches down the line if they are not square..

What do you all think?

-Zach
3rd Gen Extra Cab, Dual Cases, E-Lockers

axled89

i love oregon wheelin.

yota_krawler

lol

i actually welded in my pass side frame tube center, cocktails kicked in for the drivers and now i have to fix it, and its fully welded. I didnt realize i bumped it and welded it out. The next day I looked and was like :down: wtf......
Tow Rig: 2006 GMC Sierra Crew Cab: lift and tires.
Wheeler: 1985 Toyota 4runner Semi Built: project http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=89681.msg1013539#msg1013539

BoG-ToY

I used the little slip over jig... and a hole saw.... inch and three quarter or whatever size it is... then used a rotary file to make enough room... mine wasnt perfect but never had any problems otherwise. dont think its worth all the extra effort... I put 35k miles on mine like that. drove it cross country. no problems at all
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.

axled89

picks of your invention would be awsome. :beer:
i love oregon wheelin.

PhantomD aka Zach

Quote from: axled89 on January 26, 2010, 11:23:54 PM
picks of your invention would be awsome. :beer:

I am no artist but if I remembered how to use autocad I could draw it up very nicely... I will see if I can make something respectable...

-Zach
3rd Gen Extra Cab, Dual Cases, E-Lockers

RunnerRunner96

Quote from: yota_krawler on January 26, 2010, 11:15:55 PM
lol

i actually welded in my pass side frame tube center, thingytails kicked in for the drivers and now i have to fix it, and its fully welded. I didnt realize i bumped it and welded it out. The next day I looked and was like :down: wtf......
measure twice weld once :)
Liberal: Some one so open minded their brains fell out!!! :P

axled89

i love oregon wheelin.

axled89

i love oregon wheelin.

PhantomD aka Zach

Well, we used a plasma cutter to cut the holes, and we did not destroy the jigs in the process so the jig method will work just fine...

well actually we only cut one frame tube hole, we still have to cut the other and weld both in. when we weld them in it will destroy the jigs...

-Zach
3rd Gen Extra Cab, Dual Cases, E-Lockers

-Matt-

i don't know how to explain this...but if i had pictures it would be easy. when you go to drill the hole..or cut it out with a torch, only do one side (say the outside of the frame) the on the other side (in this case the inside of the frame) make a decent size square hole (maybe 3x3" at the largest). now your gonna have to go buy some sort of flat metal that you can cut into a square that is a little bit larger than the (3x3") hole you just cut on the inside of the frame rail. now with the new flat metal that has been cut out to fit over the hole...your gonna want to cut a circle centered in the middle of that piece that will let the piece of tubing slip inside( so basically a 3.5x3.5" piece of plate with a hole in the center). now you should be able to bolt on the side that your working on with the tube in the frame, and the little fish plate you made for the inside where its able to do self alignment. once its all bolted up just let it align its self and tack everything. then take the spring back off and weld it up.

hope that makes sense. haha

PhantomD aka Zach

so, instead of making a one off tool I plan on simply connecting the springs, and letting that sorta square up the frame tubes, tack them in with some trash bushings and then pull the springs out and burn them in. hopefully that will eliminate them being totally out of alignment.

by the way... Plasma cutters totally kick ass...

that stupid sheet metal piece in the middle of the frame was giving me grief, I just burned it away...

-Zach
3rd Gen Extra Cab, Dual Cases, E-Lockers

BoG-ToY

Im just going to use weld on shackle hangers like on the rear... on the bottom of the frame just like stock... I will tack up the front hanger mark where I want the rear shackle mounts... break the tack welds up front, bolt the shackle hangers into the front hanger just like they were springs... put it where I marked it... and burn them in, then remount the front hanger....
OR I will just K.I.S.S. and LINK the front end... lol
Sand, what fun, drop pressure to 12psi, stock tires are still digging, can't afford to get stuck, 8psi, still not working. Find a place to GET OUT, air up, un-lock hubs,  WAIT whats this, hubs are UN-LOCKED already. 2wd, 8psi, stock tires, Oregon sand dunes.