what to do first??

[slower]

well i just picked up a 85 Toyota and was wondering what everyone would recommend for the first few upgrades other than paint and a flat bed scene I'm kinda worried about the tool box falling of due to the bed rotting off. any help would be great.

[79coyotefrg]

we would need to know what your gonna use the truck for,

[Cheesemaker]

And how deep is your pockets??

[Phazertwo]

Give us a target tire size, and what type of wheeling you wanna do.  Also we need to know if its a budget wheeler or if you wanna drop some $$$ on it...

PZ

[bigarms23]

if its rusty id take care of that first but than id put bigger tires

[germ]

The list is endless, and can be re-aranged several times and ways.

First, I'd take care of any mechanical/electrical issues so that it won't leave you stranded somewhere. make it reliable.

Then I would think long and hard about your desired type of wheeling. You could go hardcore [insert preference here], but then it may not do some other types of wheeling all that well (or at all). Or, you could build it to do everything well, but not super specialized. Also, get out and start wheeling it, and see where the weaknesses are. Even in stock form, these trucks are very capable.  That would be the best way to start your list.

Also look at your budget. Usually one upgrade results in 2-3 more just to get it done. Example: Putting decent suspension lift, often requires lengthening the brake lines (because of increased flex), getting longer shocks, and depending on the lift, may have to lengthen the drive shafts. Also, since your truck is a bit older, be prepared to find weird things that need to be rebuilt or replaced as your in the process of building. (ask me how i know.....)

Ask lots of questions if you're not sure, and do your research before dropping lots of coin on something. Most everyone on this board is willling to help you figure out the best way to achieve your goal, and there is an insane amount of tech available.

Good luck

Erik

[Phazertwo]

The list is endless, and can be re-aranged several times and ways.

First, I'd take care of any mechanical/electrical issues so that it won't leave you stranded somewhere. make it reliable.

Then I would think long and hard about your desired type of wheeling. You could go hardcore [insert preference here], but then it may not do some other types of wheeling all that well (or at all). Or, you could build it to do everything well, but not super specialized. Also, get out and start wheeling it, and see where the weaknesses are. Even in stock form, these trucks are very capable.  That would be the best way to start your list.

Also look at your budget. Usually one upgrade results in 2-3 more just to get it done. Example: Putting decent suspension lift, often requires lengthening the brake lines (because of increased flex), getting longer shocks, and depending on the lift, may have to lengthen the drive shafts. Also, since your truck is a bit older, be prepared to find weird things that need to be rebuilt or replaced as your in the process of building. (ask me how i know.....)

Ask lots of questions if you're not sure, and do your research before dropping lots of coin on something. Most everyone on this board is willling to help you figure out the best way to achieve your goal, and there is an insane amount of tech available.

Good luck

Erik

I agree. Just wheel it the way it is, figure out a weakness, cure it, and move on.

PZ

[hgkittyhawk]

I bought my runner for 700 bucks. Drove it home with no brakes,heater core leaking on the floor and the the front end shot. A couple hundred bucks i was on the road. I fix the brakes first then the front end and by-passed the heater core until it got cold then i tacked it.Good thing about the whole the guy was out to sea and his girlfriend sold it cheap because it kept getting towed no inspection sticker.Ill get some pic up soon. Found it on craigslist.Got to love it.

[germ]

The other old addage is that "you can't bolt on experience". I don't know how experienced you are with wheeling, but I guarantee you that you will be a better driver if you wheel a stock rig for a while before you start to build it. Start with some mild trails, and then build up to more technically challenging ones. Learn how to finesse your way across an obstacle rather than boony bashing, and you'll develop the skills you need, then it doesn't really matter what improvements you make, or in what order. Its really the driver, not the rig that makes a good off road trip.

A good driver can take a stock IFS rig thru the Rubicon with minor body damage (i've personally seen it done). Some others can take a $100k specialty built rig, and destroy it in the first 4 miles of the trail.

Erik

[Phazertwo]

suppose he has even looked at this?

[slower]

well a little back ground i have had a handful of 4 by 4 really only for the mud. I'm a 8 year Toyota tech so i know my way around the truck and i can weld. I'm looking to build a trail/crawl/street truck if that's possible. i like really low center of gravity and as much flex as possible. i would like to stick around 33s or maybe 35s. i just don't know were to start I'm not working with much money so every mod will be the only mod for awhile. i think I'm going to stay with the stock suspension for a bit.
  - but i just need a push i guess to go with ring and pinon, t-case, steering and so on so if you guys and girls could only have one hop up other that suspension and tires what would it be??
  -and one more thing is there anything i can do to the truck without having to spend any money that would be great to?   

[Joey88RUNR]

If the truck is in good driving condition, and no rust of the frame, I would start with 4.7 tcase gears, thats what i did
Then a Good cheap mod is welding the rear spider gears for a cheap locker    

[pumkin toy]

yeah if you can find a set of toyota rear leaf springs, install those in the front (Rears Up Front, RUF)  that will move your axle forward and give you more firewall clearance for bigger tires. Along with that you will have to install a high steer kit which isnt too expensive.  Once the steering is taken care of then i would also suggest 4.7 t-case gears, and welding rear or both diffs if you want too.  I would say steering and T-case gears are two pretty important mods. Your rig will be pretty capable after that.

[NCK4L]

if you dont plan on doing suspension build yourself some body armor, bumpers and sliders you'll be glad you did. If your clutch is worn out i would get the marlin HD clutch and also get yourself some 4.7 t case gears.

[slower]

hey pumkin do you know how far forward the front will be if i install RUF and if i have to cut the front finders? since the front leafs are flat and the rear are bowed, i will have to get shackle or some thing for the rear to compensate. do yall use bolts in the spirders or just weld the spiders?

[cgbemis]

FWIW, I've always felt a rear locker is the best mod to do to a stock rig (aside from suspension or tires). Welding is cheap or free, and strong if done correctly. But before I went and started making this thing trail ready, I would work on making sure it was street worthy (you mentioned driving it on the street). Fix the frame rot, make sure it's running well, lube the chassis, etc. I pulled an 82 from a field about a year ago, and I've got $2-3000 into a rebuilt carb, a new windsheild, new exhaust, bigger radiator, new battery, a rebuilt tranny, getting it smogged, etc. My main concern was to make sure it was comfortable for the street since that is where it see's 99% of it's time. Included in that price is highsteer with an IFS box, but I haven't put that in yet. Once you've gotten everything working well for the street start searching the classifieds for up grades. I'd look at:

-highsteer
-lockers front and rear
-suspension
-tires
-gears
-nerfs and bumpers
-transfercase gears and or adapter
then it's prietty much down hill from there with axle up-grades, stronger driveshafts, more power, bigger tires, bigger axles, cages, tube work, etc. It's really a sickness.

[Phazertwo]

For sure aussie locker is the way to go!

http://www.offroadlockers.com/make.php/TMcc14ce/cc1c/99/.html

I would slap one of those in and wheel the piss outta it!  Thats what I did to my IFS truck, and it took me some crazy places.

My mods whet like this
Lock-rite (or and aussie, but at the time aussie didn't make one for a v-6 third)
Trimmed 14 inches out of my bead for better departure angle (critical if you want to wheel Moab stock)
Sliders
Rear bumper

I wheeled my truck for a year like that while I gathered parts for:
SAS
Rear lift
5.29's and a HP front

The only thing I wish I had done different time line wise, was t-cases. Wish I would have saved and done t-cases at the same time as the lift, that way you only have to do drive shafts once.

I will try to find a few pics of it from back then!

PZ

[slower]

  -well the motor is fresh its got about 5000 miles on it and about the same on the trans. i took it to the shop today and changed all the fluids, both diffs seamed to be in good shape no foreign matter came out. popped all the wheels off and checked wheel cylinders and calipers. both rails are great there's a few spots with surface rust but that's it. i think the first act of business is to weld up the rear diff tomorrow and then.
 -my question in this reply is if i get the 4.70 gears in 2 wheel it will not affect final drive so shouldn't i start with ring and pinon? and what ratio is a good rind and pinon with a 4.70 and 33s  

[Phazertwo]

4.7 gears in the t-case only effect 4-lo.  So no it will not effect your final drive ratio for highway and street driving.  Should put you close to 100:1 for the trail tho!    I wouldn't re-gear until you do your lift.

I have 4.88 and 33's on my DD 4runner with a 22RE.  I love it!  (My motor has ~230k original miles, something to consider)

Personally i would go with a aussie if you plan to drive on the road much.  If you weld the rear you will chew through rear tires.  A aussie will still speed up rear tire wear, but it will be much better than a weld job.

Lock it, armor it, than worry about other stuff, including a 4.7 kit.

My .02

PZ

[slower]

well you talked me into it, i guess you cant beat it for 240 bucks i might just have to order one right now. my plans are to bob the bed when i find one or just make a flat bed I'm not sure yet.

[MikeCL]

I have been building up a 85 4runner that I picked up last summer. Its my daily driver, and is being built to crawl and run the local trails. Its on 35" tires, and I plan to keep it that way. So far I have dumped over $4000 into it, and I have yet to fix the suspension. It was lifted when I got it, but needs to be redone.

Here is the list of mods I did, and in the order I did them.
-Removed the dry rotted 35's and put my old 33" swampers on it.
-Built a rear bumper
-Built a set of rock sliders
-Made a set of half doors
-Installed 1.5" wheel spacers
-Bought a set of 35" MTR Kevlars, sold the swampers
-Trimmed the fenders to fit the larger tires
-hysteer crossover steering
-Upgraded the front brakes, to IFS v6 calipers and FJ60 rotors
-New wheel bearings and axle seals when I installed the new brakes
-Swapped in a rear IFS axle, sold the rear wheel spacers

And parts I have waiting to install
-4.7 Marlin XD tcase gears, installing them in a spare tcase.
-Budbuilt single case crossmember
-Rear disc brakes, have most of the parts now. Just waiting to machine the rotors.
-Rear Spartan Locker
-Elocker, installing up front
-Longfield 30 spline axles
-Ruffstuff ubolt flip plates

Its a major snowball effect if you want to do things right the first time. And what you should do first highly depends on the style of wheeling you plan on doing. Also depends on your style of driving, and what you expect in return from your truck.

I wheeled 3 times with the stock push pull steering, 33's, and open diffs. It worked great, I had a blast on the trails. But on the third trip out I ended up bending the tie rod on a rock. That pushed high steer up on the list of things to do. I upgraded the brakes to make my rig safer on the street. I ended up ordering longfield axles for peace of mind on the trail. I am easy on my trucks, but stock axles won't hold up for ever with 35" tires and a e-locker.

Figure out everything you want to do to your truck and make a list. Take the list and group parts together, that would be best installed with others at the same time. Put down the prices for each stage, and start from the top once you can afford to do so.

[86rustbucket]

REAR LOCKER

[Rocksurfer]

The single most improvement of offroad would be lockers, but this is a slippery slope. While you are doing that you should regear the diff for the size of tire you will be running & if those are large tires then you will need a lift to accommodate them. If you plan on any rockcrawling you will quickly find the need to lower the tcase gears, if you go that far you will try harder stuff so you will get stuck more so a winch is next, with the winch you'll need a new bumper, now you're into the big rocks and they are getting a little close to your body so armour is now a given. So to wrap this up there is no surefire build method, just a never-ending slide down the slippery slope of building a 4x4.

[Phazertwo]

How about some PICS?!  Did you start a build up thread, or is this it?

PZ

[slower]

no not yet. here's a few ass it sits right now

[toyomr285]

it's a good start.

[Phazertwo]

Clean truck! I like it!

PZ