Topic: Aluminum vs steel rims

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4" CURB @45 MPH

[kneedownnate]

A steel wheel would have been forked too, but those look to be cast also.

[Rocksurfer]

I've pretty much run every rim forged aluminum, cast, spun, and also steel.

• Cast Aluminum: No thanks, they don't give and are unforgiving. Even if you don't break it, scraping it on rocks will eventually create leaks or you may just crack it. Of course worst case would be to bust one.
• Spun Aluminum: They are Ok and can bend to some extent before they break. They also can be hammered on to get you off the trail but be careful, not too much or it will break.  You still have the issue of scraping against a rock and creating a leak.
• Forged Aluminum: Very strong and you can beat on them all day long, again you still have single issue of scraping against rock due to aluminum being a somewhat soft material.
  
• Steel Rim: Very strong rim, can take a beating and keep right on going. They do well against the rocks when scraping against them, if you can scrape them up enough to create a leak a couple good swings with a hammer will seal it and get you off the trail. If you bend one you can hammer it back without any worries of breaking it or cracking.

I am sold on steel, all around strongest and most workable setup on the trail plus they are cheaper to buy when you do damage one beyond repair.

[kneedownnate]

Are we talking about just the rim or the entire wheel    There is a difference you know 

[75 toy]

I have had both and I like aluminum. I used to run the old slotted mags on a suburban and was in a head on with a van. It hit the left front corner and popped the tire, bent the dana 44 housing, sheared off the spring pin, bent the frame, and buckled the roof. the 15x10 rim was fine. I put another tire on it and ran it on another truck for years.  I'm sure those were only cast rims.

[fourunnerguy]

I got some wood stuck in my bead and bent a steel wheel, just pulled the wood out and hammered the wheel back to normal. I have a slow leak but takes months for it to be noticable.

[kneedownnate]

Look for a crack in the wheel before it goes catastrophic on you!  I straighten steel wheels every few days or so and there's a technique to it, you can't always just bang away and be good to go.

[fourunnerguy]

Well I wasn't pounding on it, but it's nice to know I can get it back into shape opposed to an aluminum wheel. Also no cracks, I've been running these same wheels since I've had the 4Runner.

[kneedownnate]

Ummm, you can bend aluminum back too    Just don't buy craptastic cast aluminum wheels and get pissed when you find out cast is junk.  Steel will break and separate too when abused, and all metals can have bad spots in them.  I've seen enough steel wheels split too.

[el picas82]

i hit a rock  on the hwy going to Craig co.. about 2 int the mooring... rock was the size of a basketball 

[8D3TOY]

I used to think Weld aluminum wheels were the bomb high dollar super strong rims, until one disintegrated on my F350 doing about 70 mph.  Pretty much destroyed the bed when the 35 flew off and the fragmented center and brake drum gouged into the asphalt.  I will say that Weld warrantied the wheel and got me a replacement, which I threw away.

I live on the corner house along a main road that has a slight bend in it, drunks miss the turn all the time hitting the curb, the aluminum shatters like glass but the drunks with steel wheels can usually keep rolling til the cops catch up to them.

[84krawler]

My best bet would be steel wheels ive been through my fair share of aluminum wheels

[kneedownnate]

I live on the corner house along a main road that has a slight bend in it, drunks miss the turn all the time hitting the curb, the aluminum shatters like glass but the drunks with steel wheels can usually keep rolling til the cops catch up to them.

Again, cast aluminum shatters, and the majority of aluminum wheels available are cast.  That doesn't mean all aluminum wheels will shatter. 

[steveco.]

forged aluminum beadlock rims.. way cool  BTR is a great company.  too bad they only make them for Trophy trucks..

[Yota87Truck]

I broke the bead on a set of aluminum rims.  Smashed it on a rock.  Busted a 4" long chunk off the rim.  The tire stayed on despite being held on with probably less than 1mm of rim/tire contact.  Immediately headed down the trail and to the nearest tire shop.  The bead held on, I have no clue how.

I also has steel rim on my tercel back in high school.  I smashed it hard on a curb screwing off on snowy roads.  Bent the rim a ton.  But I re balanced it and no problems with the tire coming off the rim.

[dgrant71]

I have bent and aluminum rim back before with no problems

[el picas82]

 

I have bent and aluminum rim back before with no problems

   
how

[12 valve]

are walker evans very good wheels?

[Larryb]

   
how

I am thinking forged wheels, not cast

[Sleeve of Wizzard]

here is one of my rims bent.... its aluminum

 
Alot of the big vanity rims are garbage and bend easily.

[wakkjobb]

Where you live and how cold it gets can be factors of tire slip; cold makes metal contract. If your area uses corrosive salt/chemicals on the road they can start corroding the aluminum wheel around the bead area causing slow leaks too.

Aluminum wheels are nice for less rotating mass and all that, but for rock beating I'd vote steelies all day long. There's also bead sealant to help prevent corrosion and to help keep the bead seated; the stuff we used was like really thick black glue and we got it from Meyer's Tire Supply.

 
>>Dan

[Tofudude]

Isn't steel suposed to be cheaper than aluminum...by alot.

[atvtrailrider]

I have been debating this topic with myself as I need to get me some wheels and I plan on beadlocks.

Option 1) Steel wheels and DIY weld on beadlocks.

Option 2) Buy some Aluminum Beadlock wheels.

Option 3) Buy some Forged Aluminum Wheels and use Staun Internal Beadlocks


I really like option 1 because of the price. But with 37's these are going to be REALLY heavy. That is alot of rotating mass BUT ,and I don't know the answer to this, will that weight actually help my center of gravity AND give me better traction than a lighter combo? Also easier to get wheels with the backspacing I would like.

Option 2 would be expensive but would be much lighter for less rotating mass.

Option 3 seems like a decent alternative. Probably about the same price as option 2. I like the idea of both beads being sealed as most bead locks only seal the outside bead.

Thoughts.....

[Steve_925]

your right with everything about #1, the weight does help as long as you have the axles to handle it.

the second one is your best option if you have the money.

the third is prolly gonna be pretty cheap, stauns are nothing near aluminum beadlocks, price wise. i got a set of 4 aluminum rims for like $40 and they are/were nice. you would want some aluminum ring stiffeners though, mine are chunking pretty good.

[superyoat]

i ran steel wheels for a long time. i just recently switched to aluminum and i am glad i did. plus i lost a ton of wight. i vote aluminum