82 Toy, it begins!

[axled89]

nice lookin first gen.       me likeee     

[79coyotefrg]

Nate, why would you want to put a stock exhaust on that truck? stock is only 1 1/2 inch tube,  so using stock tube  would be a complete waste of that header

dont run a glass because pack they ARE loud, just by a good quality muffler and have them put a flex joint  at the end of the header  this will keep the tubes from cracking, then run 2 inch tube, back to the muffler use a good quality muffler, then run 2 inch tube all the way back to behind the drivers rear tire

it wont be loud but wont restrict the exhaust so bad that you dont kill the power that header makes for ya

[YotaNate]

That's what I plan to do Glen.  For now I just hooked up the back half of the exhaust to the header and cat delete pipe for financial reasons.  I decided to upgrade my front brakes with Marlins kit next instead of dropping more money on the exhaust.  It's quiet now and secure, no more glass pack, that thing was awful!  In a month or two when I have more cash saved for the truck I'll have the exhaust finished the right way.


Nate

[YotaNate]

OK the truck has about 120 miles on it now and I'm thrilled!  I have some pretty bad vibrations between 23-28 MPH though so I am posting up pictures with the hopes somebody here can tell me what I need to do in order to correct it. 

And here is the back of the T-Case.  Please note the front driveshaft in not installed yet, I am still waiting for the new U-joints.  That wouldn't cause the vibe not having the front in would it?  Also I did not mark how they came out and do not even understand what relevance that has anyway.  Isn't the driveshaft either balanced or not balanced?  What difference would it make which of the four possible ways it could be reinstalled?  Anyway here is the other picture!  I found this website... http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shims.shtml where I can source shims if needed.

Thanks for the help!

Nate

[79coyotefrg]

just as i thought, the driveshaft is 45* out of phase

where the yoke thats welded to the shaft has the ears on it for the u joint to go in,  those "ears"  must be paralell with the ears on the other end

Isn't the driveshaft either balanced or not balanced?  What difference would it make which of the four possible ways it could be reinstalled?

Nate it makes a WORLD of difference, when you slipped the end off you UN balanced it, this is why you either have to mark them when you do that or know how to get it back in the correct rotation

imaging the shaft like this (O=========O)  if you had some wood dowels stuck on a wall or bench, the yokes on each end of the shaft need to be rotated so that both ends would slide over those dowels

[YotaNate]

It worked Glen!  Thank you yet again for the awesome advice my friend!   

Nate

[79coyotefrg]

[YotaNate]

Well she has about 200 miles on her now!  I decided to change the fluids today and the engine oil looked great.  I threw on a fresh K&N filter and Mobil 1.
    My concern is the Transmission, It had an incredible amount metal in it!  Both the drain plug magnet and the fill plug magnet were completely covered to the point they could not contain anymore shavings.   The transmission shifts great and makes no noise at all but this really scares me!  Am I right to be concerned?  I'm wondering if I should give them a call or not on Monday.  I cleaned off all the shaving and let it drain completely before I added the new Red Line 90w.  I guess I'll hope for the best!

Nate

[79coyotefrg]

post a pic of these shavings,  some is normal, lots is

[YotaNate]

Glen I cleaned off both of the magnets so I didn't get any pictures like I should have.  I thought about that after the fact  I can tell you most of it was very fine like metal dust with a few slightly larger particles.  No chunks or "threads" like say from drilling or whatnot.  The transmission shifts wonderful and does not make any noise at all that I can hear but then exploding Opel's and thousands of rounds without hearing pro make not for perfect ears.

Nate

[84pickup]

i would think that with a whole new tranny with all new gears a good bit of metal would be there but i dunno. just my .02

[79coyotefrg]

well from the sounds of it its just normal, i know when mine was drained the first time i about had a heart attack till i called and talked to Angelo and he said it was normal for the first 500 miles

[caCrawlin]

thats scary talk 

[hilux-1983]

This is what my L52HD drain plug looked like after the 1st 1000 miles.

[crazykooter]

Looks normal to me.  A lot of metal is shed during break in.  Only time I worry bout metal on plug is when its large enough pieces that you can feel easy or an excessive amount since last time I changed oil.

[YotaNate]

That makes me feel better hilux-1983, thats what mine looked like at the 150 mile mark.  It was on the fill plug as well.  I put Redline in it so i'll drain it at 1k miles and put fresh redline in it again.  Sounds fine and shifts smooth as silk so no complaints there.  Thanks again guys! 


Nate

[YotaNate]

OK new issue!  I have no heat!  The heater core hose does not even get hot!  I checked and the lever on the firewall that opens and closes the valve thing in the hose does move in and out just fine when the selector is changed from Hot to Cold and vice versa.  The air never gets even remotely warm, nothing.  The hose also remains cool to the touch. 
  It was suggested I park the truck uphill and allow it to run with the radiator cap off which I did with no change.  Could it be the heater core is just completely blocked?  I sure hope not I hear they are NO fun to replace.   

Nate

[hilux-1983]

I've been told, never tried it since mine works fine, to use presurized air through the heater core to "blow" it out(just the heater core, not the entire coolant system) . It should pass air just fine, if not. Get to work and pull it out to put in a new one. How much pressure I dont know. You shouldn't have to park the p/u in any special postion to get the coolant to flow. How does the new suspension ride?

[YotaNate]

I'm in luck then!  Picked up a 33 Gallon Craftsman Air Compressor today!  I'll try that trick this weekend with the heater core.  The truck is bouncy in back with an empty bed but if I throw in 2 of the old tires/wheels it rides nice.  I think it may take a while to break in the springs.  Very happy with them for stock replacements.  Next year I'll go with Marlins 5" setup and 35's!   

Nate

[hilux-1983]

When I was stationed back east(N.C. Ft. Bragg) I had the same problem and a loss of traction too. So I bought one of these. It works great. I still have it too. Softens the ride and doesn't make a mess. http://www.shurtrax.com/

[crazykooter]

If your going to blow air thru ur heater core make sure you put some towels down inside the cab.  It very well could make it leak.  Just an FYI.  Keep the pressure low if u can.

[hilux-1983]

If your going to blow air thru ur heater core make sure you put some towels down inside the cab.  It very well could make it leak.  Just an FYI.  Keep the pressure low if u can.

Very well said X's 2

[83MT]

People also hook up a water hose to the heater core and flush it that way. I haven't done it, but I figure the heater cores on these trucks are not such a bad job. I've had my dash apart a bunch of times and it's really easy, compared to the next gen of Toyotas. The only heater core I've done was on a Subaru and that was a serious pain.

[8D3TOY]

How did you get those Downeys?  Was it before they closed down?  I need the rear springs but no answer on the phone.  That truck is sweet.

[79coyotefrg]

its not bad but alot easier if you pull the entire dash, that way you can clean the entire system, i know when i was putting mine back together the a/c side was clogged with dirt

nate, for the gas tank--->   pull the tank, then remove the sending unit and pump, drop a short chain down in there and shake it all around (this removes the rust) then wash it out good and re install

[kneedownnate]

Next year I'll go with Marlins 5" setup and 35's!   

You'll handily clear the 35s with his 4" lift 

[YotaNate]

OK still NO HEAT!!!  AHHH!

Here is what I have done....

Cleaned out the Heater Core and ALL HOSES.  Clear water no clogs anywhere, it's all new.

The valve at the firewall that allows in hot water when you turn the controls in the truck from COOL/WARM works fine and blocks/allows water flow as required.

So i decided to try and "burp" the truck again after taking a long test drive to get the truck warm and when i pulled the radiator cap i noticed there was NO left to right coolant flow... Hmmmmm.... pulled the thermostat cover off a very hot intake and it was closed.  Threw it in a pot of water on the stove and it opens just as bubble appear in the water so I assume it's working but it says 180 on it and water boils much hotter than that right?

So I put the thermostat housing on without the thermostat in and now i can see water FLYING by in the radiator.  Take it for another 15 minute test drive and the gauge won't go more than barely off the "Cold" line, i mean not a 1/16th of an inch.  I even came back and let the truck run in the driveway for another 20 minutes at idle.  It just doesn't register warm.  Now I'm relay lost.

The hoses at the top and bottom of the radiator get hot, the hoses to the heater core do not even get lukewarm.  Why am I not getting water flow to these damn hoses!!  I just don't get it.  I need a defroster and now I'm worried I may have a bigger problem than just no heat!


Please HELP!!
Nate

[79coyotefrg]

ok, go pull the thermostat again and drill a 1/8th inch hole in it, some have a small ball thingy to allow air thru but its not enough to allow coolant thru, 

[79coyotefrg]

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=43626.0

[hilux-1983]

Lets see a few clear pics of the engine compartment so we can see all of your hose routings. Put that "stock OEM" t-stat back in there first. As cool as it is on your side of the country, your motor wont heat up with the t-stat out of it.