82 Toy, it begins!

[YotaNate]

WOW, I have not updated this in a while! Truck is running and looking great. Just normal maintenance with no real modifications in the last two months, until now! After ALOT of research I have decided to ditch the kidney bursting Downey springs and do RUF and F150's out back. What I would like help with is a 100% complete parts list.  I MUST have all the parts so I can pull it apart Saturday and put it back together all in one day. Saturday is my only day off and this is my DD. Here is my list, please let me know what I am missing! Thanks!



-4 Shocks (allready had them)
-Stock rear leafs for the front
-F150 leafs for the rear (still need to find these)
-Rear Shackle Hanger  http://www.marlincrawler.com/suspension/parts/rear-shackle-hanger
-Rear Spring Hanger  http://www.marlincrawler.com/suspension/parts/rear-spring-hanger
-Front Shackle Hanger...?  Unsure on this
-Front Spring Hanger...can I just reuse stock? I want to keep my pristine valance!

[pumkin toy]

WOW, I have not updated this in a while!  Truck is running and looking great.  Just normal maintenance with no real modifications in the last two months, until now!  After ALOT of research I have decided to ditch the kidney bursting Downey springs and do RUF and F150's out back.  What I would like help with is a 100% complete parts list.  I MUST have all the parts so I can pull it apart Saturday and put it back together all in one day.  Saturday is my only day off and this is my DD.  Here is my list, please let me know what I am missing!  Thanks!

-4 Shocks (allready had them)
-Stock rear leafs for the front
-F150 leafs for the rear (still need to find these)
-Rear Shackle Hanger  http://www.marlincrawler.com/suspension/parts/rear-shackle-hanger
-Rear Spring Hanger  http://www.marlincrawler.com/suspension/parts/rear-spring-hanger
-Front Shackle Hanger...?  Unsure on this
-Front Spring Hanger...can I just reuse stock? I want to keep my pristine valance!

i'm not quite sure what all you will need, but my only concern is that you might not be able to do this in one day.  If i remember correctly RUF moves your front axle forward quite a bit which will mess with your stock steering.  I'm just wondering if you will also have steering issues to deal with as well.  I'm sure someone else can tune in and answer those questions

[YotaNate]

Oooh, I had not thought of that.  I still have stock steering and had not planned on X-Over for $$ reasons.    Thanks for the tip, I better search some more!


Nate

[pumkin toy]

Oooh, I had not thought of that.  I still have stock steering and had not planned on X-Over for $$ reasons.    Thanks for the tip, I better search some more!


Nate

no problem!  that was my first thought, I think it is best to do high steer along with the RUF setup.  then you can move your axle forward, and mount your ifs box nice and forward on the frame too so your steering has plenty of clearance   I would deffinately suggest doing it all at one time if you can wait to get your high steer.

[83YOTASR5]

I ran RUF with stock steering for a couple months by doing a j arm flip but it was really a pain because your drag link is fully compressed and my steering wheel was all jacked up because the axle is so close to the steering box.

[hilux-1983]

I would suggest doing one end of the truck at a time. The front one weekend and the rear another weekend. Hopefully the front during a 3 or 4 day weekend. (Hmmm... I miss those days) Also, definately install the hi steer when you do the RUF.

[Pariah]

Good lookin rig!

[YotaNate]

Well a little update here.  The truck is back to 100% stock suspension and tire size.  For those of you who don't know I am DDing it now and averaging 20.5 MPG!  The wife and I picked up a blue 4Runner for our "camping truck" and we are in the process of building that.  http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=70165.0;highlight=old+blue  is a link to THAT build.

Nate

[YotaNate]

Well the truck is in the garage!  Today on the way to the beach with my son a belt started slipping, sounded awful.  Turned around and go the truck back home on very light throttle.  Everything was tight so I was confused.  Took the belts off thinking the idler pulley might have frozen up but everything spins freely by hand.  Long story short I pulled the water pump and sure enough the impeller blades are hitting the inside of the timing cover!  This seems to be my arch nemesis!  There does not seem to be any play in the pump shaft and it all feels good by hand.  This is a Toyota pump that says "made in Japan" on it and has the cast iron impeller VS the cheap stamped metal ones.
  I tried puting fresh silicon on it and putting it back together but as soon as I hit the throttle it makes contact with the inside of the Timing cover and will sometimes "bind up" inside there enough to cause the belt to slip and squeal.  Truck will sit and idle fine but with throttle it makes a hell of a noise.  What am I doing wrong!

Nate

[79coyotefrg]

sounds like  the wrong water pump.  I cant remember for sure but i think the 85 and newer engines have a shallower  timing cover requiring a shorter impeller on the pump.  you'll need to confirm this by taking your pump to the parts house and comparing it to a 82 water pump and a 87 water pump.

[YotaNate]

Glen I am not sure why this just started happening but it did.  The new engine probably has about 8k on it now and it just happened yesterday.  Got a new cheap pump from Advance Auto and the same thing happens!  I will look into the impeller shaft depth thing.  Kim's at work though so I have no way to get to the store though.  Bah! 


Nate

[79coyotefrg]

[Early]

newer covers were shorter cause they only had one-row chain.

Old skate board, kids bike, razor scooter, all viable ways to go get parts, (i recommend the skateboard and a strap for when it something heavy).

You got a Purdy truck too

[YotaNate]

Oh I could walk, but I have my toddler son with me to and it's 95 out hehe.  It's about 6 miles to town.

Nate

[YotaNate]

OK, same thing with the new pump.  Tried to use the gasket and RTV thinking the extra space might help, no joy.  Now the engine is hot again so i'm waiting to take it back off.  This will be the fith time the pump has been on/off since yesterday. Grrr   


Nate

[YotaNate]

I need idea's, the pump has to be right it worked for 6-8k miles.  It's a Toyota pump and the part number online at Rock Auto is the same for all the first gens except the RE. 

This is what it's doing.....




I want my truck back!


Nate

[79coyotefrg]

um,  isnt this engine a later model ?? if so you need the RE pump

[79coyotefrg]

um, look at the pump and see if the shaft doesnt move in and out some

[YotaNate]

Shaft is solid, had 3 pumps in it in 24 hours Glen, 2 of them brand new.

Nate

[79coyotefrg]

is that a aftermarket timing cover

[YotaNate]

ATK long block from LCE Glen, not sure they all look identical when i compare to my old 22r and my runner with the RE in it?

Nate

[Early]

Yours

mine 94 22re



and one of the water pump off that timing cover and my truck spare.

[Early]

I would say your timing chain cover is a later model. Does it have a dual row chain?

If it has a dual row and has that cover it may be LCE's upgrade is what im thinking. I didn't think it came on ATK rebuild but it might.

A closer look at my LCE catalogue shows the 3 different covers with the same water pump cut out (but that could be marketing lazyness), i still think they are different

To take a step back, Was your belt crazy tight or something? If the belt was to tight, it would pull the outer shaft towards the alternator on the pass side. pivoting the blade to make the marks you see.

The thing i keep thinking about is that it was fine for 8k. Did anything change lately? the marking on the timing cover could have been from the first couple turns 7,990 miles ago. Then something changed, like you broke a belt and replaced it to tight.

Have you talked to ATK/ LCE?


O, and if i take my water pump and set it inside down on my bench, i measure about 1/2" from the bench to the mounting surface of the pump. i don't know if this helps but i thought worth a shot. Let me know if you want a different meassurement

[Joey88RUNR]

Dual row and single row covers are different ..just went through this..I put a dual row cover on a single row 222re, its what my customer gave me. And kept leaking oil at front crank seal . The cover was to wide . It was a mess

[Early]

LCE makes a modified dual row cover for late model 22r. With this they might use either early or late water pump. His motor is from ATK. ATK is sold in my LCE catalogue.

The idea being that hes buying parts for an 82 (?) when his modified motor needs newer parts. idk.

Good to know about the covers not swapping, i had wondered that the other day.

PS: i just read that and want to make sure of something in my head, late means new and early means old, correct?

[Rokntoy]

And here is my full time parts cleaner!  Damn i married a good one!  Love you babe!

Damn nice parts cleaner!

[YotaNate]

It's a single row chain.  Just confirmed.  Truck is making a terrible noise again that goes away when I remove the small belt.  That means Flex Fan, Water Pump or Alternator right?  The truck has had 3 water pumps on it in the last 2 weeks.  The fan turns smoothly by hand?  The Alternator turns nice by hand and I cannot get it to move up down by hand as in shaft play.  I'm stumped but it sounds like it's eating a hole in itself and I'm almost positive it's the damn water pump impeller touching something inside the timing cover.  Happened overnight about 2 weeks ago.

Nate

[Dr.Maxwe001]

Strange    maybe its a Elf or something climbing inside the motor while your not looking and is banging on something to try and get you to stop     let me out loet me out

[YotaNate]

It's a friggen GNOME!  It must be!   Anyone know where to get any Gnome-Spray?   Damn thing is buggin me!


Nate

[themainjam]

Looks great GOOD LUCK!