Author Topic: i got my marlin crawler rock sliders!! i got some questions (Read 3670 times)

spaded1 · « **on:** Feb 16, 2009, 06:28:38 PM »

so i got my sliders in today. and im wondering if i need to trim some of the cab to be able to install them flush with the frame??

Duffil · « **Reply #1 on:** Feb 16, 2009, 07:04:25 PM »

just the pinch weld. I just BFHd the whole thing over.

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #2 on:** Feb 16, 2009, 07:16:41 PM »

Quote from: Duffil on Feb 16, 2009, 07:04:25 PM

just the pinch weld. I just BFHd the whole thing over.

I did the same.... it looks cleaner if you just make some cuts and bend up where you need to but I like doing things easy!

spaded1 · « **Reply #3 on:** Feb 16, 2009, 07:31:40 PM »

Quote from: Duffil on Feb 16, 2009, 07:04:25 PM

just the pinch weld. I just BFHd the whole thing over.

well ive got a BFH, and i like doing things easy too

TIMS89CRAWLER · « **Reply #4 on:** Feb 16, 2009, 07:53:06 PM »

Quote from: spaded1 on Feb 16, 2009, 07:31:40 PM

well ive got a BFH, and i like doing things easy too

well hell ya man your set!

Mnmstoy · « **Reply #5 on:** Feb 16, 2009, 11:25:33 PM »

That's what I did. Not Marlin sliders....I built my own.
I used a cut off wheel cut the pinch weld/lip and folded over. I don't have a body lift so trying to get the (what I call) the out riggers to sit in the middle of the chassis. That is what I had to do.
and the out come.

Mike

BTW I can view your pics.

Snowtoy · « **Reply #6 on:** Feb 17, 2009, 12:40:37 AM »

Before welding on the sliders, you will want to replace the body mounts. The cab is intended to move a little to absorb some of the jarring, the 20+yr old body mounts are well worn by now and will allow the cab to move a lot more than intended. W/the sliders close to the cab, the cab will rattle on the sliders when ever you hit the slightest bump, or turns at speed where the cab will roll from the forces of gravity. Even w/fresh body mounts you will want to leave about a 1/4" of space between the cab and slider.

The reason for swapping the body mounts out before you have the sliders welded on, is that you need to lift/support the cab from the body seam to install the new body mounts. New Energy suspension body mounts, only $58 at Summit. You can replace them later, but it will be easier to do it w/the sliders still off.

87pickup · « **Reply #7 on:** Feb 17, 2009, 05:00:14 AM »

I used a 4" grinder with a new flapper wheel to radius the pinch weld where the legs of my sliders go. Mine are tight to the pinch weld and i havent heard and rattling between the body and sliders as of yet.

Dr.Maxwe001 · « **Reply #8 on:** Feb 17, 2009, 06:50:08 AM »

I cut some of the body away from my marlin sliders its no big deal I do know that the little triangle gussets sit at 10 and 2 on the frame to leg also make sure you can still open your door freely with them installed I have mine sitting at a 20* angle gives good ground clearance and also still allows me to use the doors with no hitting or binding

spaded1 · « **Reply #9 on:** Feb 17, 2009, 09:31:40 AM »

Quote from: maxwe001 on Feb 17, 2009, 06:50:08 AM

I cut some of the body away from my marlin sliders its no big deal I do know that the little triangle gussets sit at 10 and 2 on the frame to leg also make sure you can still open your door freely with them installed I have mine sitting at a 20* angle gives good ground clearance and also still allows me to use the doors with no hitting or binding

that is exactly what i want to do,, thanks everybody!!

Dr.Maxwe001 · « **Reply #10 on:** Feb 17, 2009, 09:46:12 AM »

thats our Job to help others out with there projects

blackdiamond · « **Reply #11 on:** Feb 17, 2009, 11:57:56 AM »

Quote from: Mnmstoy on Feb 16, 2009, 11:25:33 PM

That's what I did. Not Marlin sliders....I built my own.
I used a cut off wheel cut the pinch weld/lip and folded over.

Do you work in marketing? You talk about what you did to the pinch weld, but your picture only shows the sliders that are blocking the work you did on the pinch weld. Reminds me of management metrics at work where the data doesn't really support any rational conclusions.

$Beer Chug\'n$

Just messing with you.

Dr.Maxwe001 · « **Reply #12 on:** Feb 17, 2009, 02:23:10 PM »

I was gona say damn thats kinda rude to say such nice things when he gave such a nice pict and was so helpful but all is good in the marlin world

blackdiamond · « **Reply #13 on:** Feb 17, 2009, 05:43:03 PM »

Quote from: maxwe001 on Feb 17, 2009, 02:23:10 PM

I was gona say damn thats kinda rude to say such nice things when he gave such a nice pict and was so helpful but all is good in the marlin world

I work for the government so sometimes I can't hold my humor back, it's my defense mechanism. I'll post some of the things I witness at work in the jokes thread.

NCK4L · « **Reply #14 on:** Feb 17, 2009, 10:42:05 PM »

just thought id tell ya i didnt cut my pinch weld at all and havent had a problem yet .i also made my own gussets that extend from the frame pretty far out on to the legs of the slider for a little more support

Mnmstoy · « **Reply #15 on:** Feb 18, 2009, 02:35:16 AM »

Quote from: blackdiamond on Feb 17, 2009, 11:57:56 AM

Do you work in marketing? You talk about what you did to the pinch weld, but your picture only shows the sliders that are blocking the work you did on the pinch weld. Reminds me of management metrics at work where the data doesn't really support any rational conclusions.

$Beer Chug\'n$

Just messing with you.

no marketing here. lol
My focus was more on having to cut the pinch weld so that the out riggers/legs were more center on the chassis.
Everyone else prior to my post pretty much summed it up on having to cut/BFH the pinch weld.
I thought I would be kind enough to show a pic. after the install.
It's all good.
Mike

spaded1 · « **Reply #16 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 10:34:09 AM »

so i installed them yesterday.. and i decided to put them flat instead of at a 20 degree angle. how do you think that will do???

Dr.Maxwe001 · « **Reply #17 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 10:49:43 AM »

you will loose ground clearance

spaded1 · « **Reply #18 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 12:33:19 PM »

i actually didnt lose any,, its exactly the same

DTB · « **Reply #19 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 12:35:42 PM »

Uhhh no its not....if they are flat you are losing clearance..... out at the edge of the slider...... probably a FEW inches

it stays the same near the legs...flat or not

spaded1 · « **Reply #20 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 12:50:43 PM »

for one, im talking about they arent lower than my transfer case. and they are completly even with the bottom of the frame, if i did lose ground clearance, its only a 1/16 of an inch

Snowtoy · « **Reply #21 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 02:33:32 PM »

The clearance that is being referred too is that near the doors. Sliders that are angle up give you a little more clearance than flat ones do when maneuvering around boulders on the trail.

It is basically a personal preference, and has more to do w/what you want your sliders for, i.e, simple protection, or for footing. I use mine as steps as well, so having them flat works better for me than if they were slanted.

spaded1 · « **Reply #22 on:** Feb 26, 2009, 05:16:39 PM »

Quote from: Snowtoy on Feb 26, 2009, 02:33:32 PM

The clearance that is being referred too is that near the doors. Sliders that are angle up give you a little more clearance than flat ones do when maneuvering around boulders on the trail.

It is basically a personal preference, and has more to do w/what you want your sliders for, i.e, simple protection, or for footing. I use mine as steps as well, so having them flat works better for me than if they were slanted.

looking at it like that,, yea i guess i did lose some ground clearance.. but that is why i mounted them flat as well,, so i can use them as a step into the bed. ill post some pics and see what you guys think

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