Author Topic: It Starts... duals (Read 4126 times)

jrock · « **on:** Jan 11, 2009, 07:01:39 PM »

I have begun

. My "shop".

For starts, does anyone have a favorite drive-line shop near Stockton/Sacramento?

OOPS · « **Reply #1 on:** Jan 11, 2009, 07:50:43 PM »

I have had good luck with Driveline Service of Sacramento. They are located in West Sacramento. I had them build my 14" long slip front shaft 12 years ago and I am still running most of the parts today.

jrock · « **Reply #2 on:** Jan 11, 2009, 08:57:08 PM »

Cool, I'll check them out.

Is this okay? It is on the main shaft.

Duffil · « **Reply #3 on:** Jan 11, 2009, 11:55:53 PM »

maybe got low on oil but you are fine. put it together!

jrock · « **Reply #4 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 12:05:50 AM »

Good! Thank you.

Duffil · « **Reply #5 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 12:09:09 AM »

is that your bedroom?

jrock · « **Reply #6 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 09:42:12 AM »

"Shop".... yes.

Hawk Thor · « **Reply #7 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 09:48:50 AM »

I have never seen a carpeted "shop" before. It must be nice to be able to go barefoot when working in the shop.

jrock · « **Reply #8 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 01:43:01 PM »

So now that the adapter is on the crawl box, the shifter is real stiff. Is this normal? Can I fix it?

jrock · « **Reply #9 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 02:29:44 PM »

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=3050.0;highlight=stiff+shifter
Got it, 1/2" drillbit with sandpaper cloth, one to two dozen passes and it works.

And.... Finished... almost. It still has to get into the truck.

I want to use Amsoil MT 90. Any recommendations? good/bad?

Shifter's backwards, huh. Damn! Almost had it.

Duffil · « **Reply #10 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 05:41:14 PM »

so i guess you got the shift fork welded up?

jrock · « **Reply #11 on:** Jan 12, 2009, 06:18:30 PM »

The "No press bearing removal" process worked wonderfully. And, yes, I had Detoni's Welding do it.

jrock · « **Reply #12 on:** Jan 13, 2009, 02:35:11 PM »

I've read Mini's writeup on square drive-lines but does anyone have tips to keep the thing balanced? Should I use the front CV or a normal universal?
2.5x2.5" OD Receiver and 2x2" OD Square

MiniSimp · « **Reply #13 on:** Jan 13, 2009, 02:41:23 PM »

Good luck with balancing, just build it as good as you can. Mine (rear) is good up to 70mph. Just depends on how well you center it.
I used the CV for the front and it turned out great.

jrock · « **Reply #14 on:** Jan 13, 2009, 10:34:17 PM »

I should ask, what is the best way center the ends? How can I best square the tube with the ends?

MiniSimp · « **Reply #15 on:** Jan 14, 2009, 07:20:34 AM »

Quote from: jkief86 on Jan 13, 2009, 10:34:17 PM

I should ask, what is the best way center the ends? How can I best square the tube with the ends?

make your cuts square with the u-joint clips, just have to eyeball it, but really take your time. Make sure you cut an equal amount from each side. Cut it too big, then grind down until the tube barely fits. Make sure the base is flat also. On mine I leveled the joint in a vice 2 ways then leveled the tubing, tacked, checked, tacked, checked, then did small welds around it to make sure there was no pull.

jrock · « **Reply #16 on:** Jan 15, 2009, 10:56:49 AM »

Question: Do you have to wear-in/break-in duals? There are new bearings.

MiniSimp · « **Reply #17 on:** Jan 15, 2009, 10:59:48 AM »

Quote from: jkief86 on Jan 15, 2009, 10:56:49 AM

Question: Do you have to wear-in/break-in duals? There are new bearings.

No.

jrock · « **Reply #18 on:** Jan 15, 2009, 11:03:30 AM »

Perfect. Now, is $95 to shorten the rear and balance correct? Lastly, is 6" the correct amount that needs to be taken off?

MiniSimp · « **Reply #19 on:** Jan 15, 2009, 11:05:14 AM »

Quote from: jkief86 on Jan 15, 2009, 11:03:30 AM

Perfect. Now, is $95 to shorten the rear and balance correct?

sounds about right.

Quote from: jkief86 on Jan 15, 2009, 11:03:30 AM

Lastly, is 6" the correct amount that needs to be taken off?

You need to measure the distance from transfer case flange to pinion flange and give that measurement to your driveline guy.

jrock · « **Reply #20 on:** Jan 15, 2009, 11:07:26 AM »

Mini, how long did you cut the larger square tube for you front driveshaft?

MiniSimp · « **Reply #21 on:** Jan 15, 2009, 11:09:09 AM »

Quote from: jkief86 on Jan 15, 2009, 11:07:26 AM

Mini, how long did you cut the larger square tube for you front driveshaft?

I had both tubes 30" long when I welded them on, then cut them down using this formula I came up with:

MiniSimp · « **Reply #22 on:** Jan 15, 2009, 11:09:43 AM »

For the most travel make both driveshaft pieces the same length.

jrock · « **Reply #23 on:** Jan 15, 2009, 11:12:52 AM »

Nice diagram. Thanks.

jrock · « **Reply #24 on:** Jan 15, 2009, 01:49:13 PM »

Cutting the shifting lever, is this the one? (Clamp on it) Best way to cut it? Cutoff wheel or hacksaw?

MiniSimp · « **Reply #25 on:** Jan 15, 2009, 02:24:19 PM »

Follow the directions here: http://www.marlincrawler.com/sites/all/marlin/files/docs/crawler-installer.pdf

jrock · « **Reply #26 on:** Jan 15, 2009, 02:26:36 PM »

"If your rear-most case is out of a 1985 to 1988 top shifting EFI (W56-A/B) tranny
then you must shorten the driver's side shift rod. This is the shift rod sticking out of
the rear most case when you shift into 4hi that has the flat side on top. You must
trim 1/2" off of the front of this shift rod to avoid jamming between the two cases."

I did, I had the question of how to best cut it off, I just added the "which one" to double check.

MiniSimp · « **Reply #27 on:** Jan 15, 2009, 02:30:23 PM »

Quote from: jkief86 on Jan 15, 2009, 02:26:36 PM

"If your rear-most case is out of a 1985 to 1988 top shifting EFI (W56-A/B) tranny
then you must shorten the driver's side shift rod. This is the shift rod sticking out of
the rear most case when you shift into 4hi that has the flat side on top. You must
trim 1/2" off of the front of this shift rod to avoid jamming between the two cases."

I did, I had the question of how to best cut it off, I just added the "which one" to double check.

I used a Portaband Saw, you could use a grinder with a cut-off wheel in a vice, or a hack saw.

jrock · « **Reply #28 on:** Jan 15, 2009, 05:08:35 PM »

The cutoff-wheel worked. Thanks Mini.
The duals are in and running. I just need the drivelines built and that starts tomorrow. I think my "new to me" dual crossmember is bent. (pictures) The cat also contacts the crossmember.

Oh and a runner's rear driveshaft does work on an x-cab with duals but an SR5 driveshaft has the wrong ends for a standard. Damn. I think there is like 2" of engagement.

My old rear d-shaft was 54" at ride height.

Duffil · « **Reply #29 on:** Jan 15, 2009, 06:56:09 PM »

so the Turbo shaft I let you borrow didn't work?

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