Author Topic: 1990 Toy 4x4, still hard to get in 1st gear after all this work (Read 5036 times)

mlatrella · « **on:** Nov 03, 2008, 07:43:32 PM »

I put in the Marlin shifter bushings, new 75-90wt valvoline gear oil, new clutch master cyl. new slave cyl. shifts very smooth and possative, just will not go in 1st gear if I come to a complete stop. Somtimes I can go to 2nd into 1st. sometimes I can't and I have to jam it in hard, sometimes it works fine.
Question, if the truck is not running the trans shifts as smooth as butter(why not when its running), and should I try thinner oil like 20-50 motor oil or ATF ? Or could it be just a bad 1st gear sinkrinizer. Trans has 151,000 miles on it.(forgive my spelling).

Homefries · « **Reply #1 on:** Nov 03, 2008, 07:58:08 PM »

My guess is the first gear syncro's are starting to go out and it needs to be rebuilt.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #2 on:** Nov 03, 2008, 07:59:24 PM »

sounds like a first gear synchro or a bent shift fork -- don't shove it into first if it wont go... i did this, and 2 weeks later, lost all gears

tech201 · « **Reply #3 on:** Nov 03, 2008, 08:22:51 PM »

I read somewhere to run GL4 grade gear oil GL5 and synthetic is too slick and the syncro brakes dont work as well.

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #4 on:** Nov 03, 2008, 08:32:31 PM »

Valvoline GL5 Synthetic is working fine for me, but I have heard of this type of issue with GL5 Synthetic gear oil.

91xcab · « **Reply #5 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 05:26:50 AM »

I had the same problem with my truck when I changed out mt auto with a w56c, the trans had a little water in it so I drained and flushed the trans and refilled with Valvoline 75-90w with a bottle of lucas oil. At first I could only get 1st the my truck had other issues (coil, igniter, fuel lines, sending unit, gas tank and brake lines) so while I fixed everything else the truck sat around for about a week. Right after I changed the igniter and could start it again I had first gear......

my guess is that after sitting the lucas oil treatment freed up a stuck fork or something

. I would say to put in a bottle of it and see what happens.....

crawlerdan · « **Reply #6 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 06:09:08 AM »

do you have a body lift ?

mlatrella · « **Reply #7 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 06:40:09 AM »

No lift at all. Anyone know a good place to get my extra trans rebuild in Southern NJ?? how much should it cost, extra trans has 214,000 miles on it, so I don't want to just stick it in, I want to have it ready to go in when The clutch is due.

Yota-Freak · « **Reply #8 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 08:05:04 AM »

yeah i have the same prob when i shift from a cold start, my 2nd Syncro is going out, just get a new syncro dude...u should be ship-shape.

jonathan82toy · « **Reply #9 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 08:19:29 AM »

Try here http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/transmission/transmission.htm

mlatrella · « **Reply #10 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 08:23:37 AM »

can the 1st gear syncro be changed without pulling out the trans?

Yota-Freak · « **Reply #11 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 08:29:38 AM »

if theres a way, i dont know of it

jonathan82toy · « **Reply #12 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 08:33:20 AM »

Quote from: mlatrella on Nov 04, 2008, 08:23:37 AM

can the 1st gear syncro be changed without pulling out the trans?

The trans has to come out for that

mlatrella · « **Reply #13 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 12:51:32 PM »

so would thinner oil or atf in trans help, or stick with 75-90

Plekto · « **Reply #14 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 03:30:56 PM »

Not really, though I do like the Lucas additives. It may be as simple as an adjustment of the clutch fork. If it's not pulling things apart far enough, it can cause the gears to stick and rub against each other - and every so often the teeth line up just right and get stuck on each other rather than nudging past each other(which they also shouldn't do anyways, but they won't jam while it's turning). Kind of like how sometimes the thing will get stuck getting in or out of 4wd and you have to rock or nudge it a bit. Except, obviously, this isn't a good thing for first gear - heh.

Oh - don't force it really hard as other's have said - you can break the fork if it's really jammed tight.

q: is it sticking getting in and out of gear before your start it or is it grinding and popping in (like how the reverse sometimes grinds a little bit on some trucks)?

mlatrella · « **Reply #15 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 03:51:36 PM »

no grinding at all, any gear anytime. infact if I put it in 1st just before I come to a compleet stop it slides right in, but I can't sit at a light for 2 minutes holding the clutch in, I cut my left ankle half way off in a motorcycle accident when I wore a younger mans clothes many moons ago and threres not much muscle there. Besides I always thought it was bad for the clutch to sit holding it in to long, when I was young driving with my old man he would holler at me-(let that damn clutch out). How do you adjust the clutch fork??

old school toy · « **Reply #16 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 05:45:03 PM »

Pilot bearing................................

?? or clutch not disengaging. Try this.....engine running, not moving, push in the clutch and shift into gear.........should move in easy.................if not... shut engine off and try it again...if shifts easy then clutch not disengaging

?

mlatrella · « **Reply #17 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 05:54:21 PM »

Dude- it shifts as smooth as butter when its off.

old school toy · « **Reply #18 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 06:15:06 PM »

Sounds like the pilot bearing or clutch not disengaging

old school toy · « **Reply #19 on:** Nov 04, 2008, 06:22:13 PM »

Probably the next thing you want to do is......................have somebody apply the clutch and you look at slave cylinder......see if it moves against clutch fork...............checking to see if it's applying pressure to the fork. (also rebleed the slave cylinder)

mlatrella [OP]

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