4xFlyin build1982 1st Gen.. Dual Diaphram Booster

[4XFlyin]

The time has come for me to finally take my rig I have owned for 20 years and make her a crawler.

4.3L Vortec and 4l60E automatic already installed and running for 8 years now. It currently sits on 35" MTR's with 4.88 gears and Lock Rights.

The build includes:
Dual transfercases with 23 spline and stock ratios Done
Allpro skid plate/crossmember with parking disc brake Done
4 link front with panhard and johnny joints. 2" x 1/4" DOM  Done
4 Link triangulated rear and johnny joints. 2" x 1/4" DOM Done
Swayaway coil overs. 14" front and 16" rear Done
PRP seats Done
Grant steering wheel Done
Front winch bumper Done
Possible exo cage Done
Bikini top Done
Tubed bed Done
Hydro assist (on the cheap)w/ IFS power steering box Done
Marlin cross over steering w/ FJ80 TRE's Done
All Pro dif armor Done
Rock lights Done
Rear disk brake conversion Done
Vented rotor conversion with IFS calipers Done
FJ80 brake master cylinder Done
1 1/2" All pro wheel spacers Done
LED rear tailights Done
Front Range Steering arm studs Done

[4XFlyin]

I started the front bumper. The foundation of the bumper is a 4x4x 1/4" that is welded to the frame. The tube is 1.75 x 1/8 DOM. I used an old Warn winch plate I had lying around. Later I will add more pieces for reinforcement and tie the exo cage to it.

[4XFlyin]

The 4.3l Vortec and 4L60e have been in since 2000 without any issues.

[montanatoy]

nice start bumper looks good

[4XFlyin]

Dual cases installed with All Pro crossmember and disk brake.

[4XFlyin]

Made some seat brackets that attach to my old Corbeau seat sliders that will attach to my PRP seats.

[iNfErNaL]

Looks bad ass so far George,can't wait to see it done!! 

[4XFlyin]

Thanks guys. I can't wait for it to get done. It has been a while since I have been on the trail.

[BABYTOYOTA]

hey man where did you get those seats from?

[RokCrawlinToy]

Cool, George. Get that thing done so we can go wheelin!!! 

[4XFlyin]

[

hey man where did you get those seats from?

I ordered them through Poly Performance. You can choose your colors and materials. I ordered the driver side extra wide.

[TacoRunner]

I love seeing this thing finally moving along. Great work George

[RokCrawlinToy]

Lets see those links you were talking about this afternoon.

[4XFlyin]

You didn't think I had it did yah. This is the front upper at 22" long center to center. The front lower is going to be 33" long. I will be using 1 1/4" Johnny Joints all the way around.

[lucky7]

Are your duals stock or does one have a 4-7 in it and hows it work?

[RokCrawlinToy]

Are your duals stock or does one have a 4-7 in it and hows it work?

I think his duals are stock since, but I could be wrong.

[RokCrawlinToy]

You didn't think I had it did yah. This is the front upper at 22" long center to center. The front lower is going to be 33" long. I will be using 1 1/4" Johnny Joints all the way around.

Well, get em on there. Oh yeah, don't forget to call me when you chop the roof off.   

[4XFlyin]

Are your duals stock or does one have a 4-7 in it and hows it work?

They are both stock. At this time I don't see the need for the 4.7. I was actually very happy when it was a single with my chevy automatic. Having the doubler should be  sweet.

[Duffil]

nice start.

[4XFlyin]

Didn't get to do much this weekend. I did weld up my rear upper link brackets that will go on the frame much later. I got these from BTF.

One tip I would like to share is making a thin spacer out of sheet metal to put between your joint and the brackets. When I welded up the rear upper link brackets with the joints in place I was not able to remove the joint without pounding it out. Than I couldn't get the joint back in because welding the bracket closed the tolerance down. Using a thin sheet metal spacer when welding up my next set of brackets made the fit perfect after welding was done.

[4XFlyin]

Here is the rear upper link mount bracket for the lower arms all welded up. Also from BTF.

[4XFlyin]

This is the rear differential truss from 

[Jud]

Looks cool.

[4XFlyin]

Was able to get the coil over hoops welded up this weekend.

[4XFlyin]

Today I decided to rotate my knuckles. This way my pinion flange is pointed right at the transfercase flange and I will have the proper caster angle to avoid getting death wobble with bigger tires.

I used a string attached to both flanges and a right angle square to make sure the pinion was pointed at the flange.







So my pinion was at 10 degrees when pointed at the transfer case flange. I used an angle finder from Lowes to figure out the angle.

[4XFlyin]

I used my grinder to cut the knuckles.

[4XFlyin]

I used a long straight piece of card stock to draw a line around the axle. I marked a line just on the inside of the existing weld that holds the knuckle on. I have used a large 4" pipe cutter to do this in the past and I feel using the grinder is much faster and gives you a nice area to weld. I just cut all the way around evenly until I noticed the break. The break was easy to see as a dirty oil line appeared just as I cut deep enough.

[4XFlyin]

I only cut and welded one knuckle at a time. Now that one side was cut I set the axle on jackstands and rotated the pinion until it was at 80 degrees.



Then I used two long pipes that slid into the the trunion bearing races and rotated the cut knuckle until it was at 5 degrees to get the correct castor angle.

[4XFlyin]

Once the knuckle and pinion where at the right degrees I welded the axle up. Then I cut the knuck on the other side and made sure it was at the same degrees at the other side and welded it up. I did this whole procedure by myself. In the past I had someone help me. The secret was using long pipes as pictured to rotate the knuckles. They only needed to rotated just over an 1/8" to get the correct rotation. Having a good quality angle finder makes a big difference. I also used my digital angle finder to get the knuckles the same degrees.

[Duffil]

nice job on that.