Topic: Weber carb knowledge

[79coyotefrg]

what i run

180/142  primary,   185/150 secondary

threads on this subject

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=32516.0

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=34783.msg402061#msg402061




Carburetor Set Up and Lean Best Idle Adjustment


   

Base line Settings

Speed Screw 1 to 11/2 turns

 Mixture Screw 2 turns

Your settings with engine running

Speed Screw______________

Mixture Screw______________

 
   

It is important to follow all linkage and lever installation instructions. The number one and two reasons for tuning errors are improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing a binding in linkage assembly.

CALIBRATIONS MAY VARY DUE TO REGIONAL FUELS AND STATE OF ENGINE TUNE AND PERFORMANCE. POOR RUNNING QUALITY DOES NOT MEAN A DEFECT IN THE CARBURETOR. AN ADVANTAGE OF THE WEBER CARBURETOR IS ITS EASE OF ADJUSTMENT AND TUNING.

SET UP ADJUSTMENTS

Start set up by confirming carb base line settings. Do not depend on the factory delivered settings. Check them before the carb is installed.

All settings are done with choke disengaged or warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and disengaged. This is done on automatic choke carburetors by first opening the choke butterfly by hand and inserting a wood block or wedge of some kind to hold open while the linkage is cycled (linkage operated through its full movement ) to clear the choke cam. (You will hear a metallic click as the cam is released. You can check the fast Idle screw under the choke assembly to confirm that it is not in contact with the choke fast idle cam.)

Set the Idle stop screw (speed screw see fig 1)  by backing out the Idle speed screw until it is not in contact with the throttle stop lever. Cycle the linkage again to be sure that the linkage comes to close without any assistance. (Checking for linkage bind)  Now bring screw back into contact with the lever and continue to open or screwing in 1 turn no more than 11/2 turns.

Set the mixture screw (see Fig 1) by first screwing in until the screw stops, bottoms out. DO NOT FORCE OR BIND AS THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SCREW AND IT’S SEAT IN THE BODY OF CARBURETOR.  Back out the screw 2 full turns.

TUNING   

   1. BE SURE TO FOLLOW THE NEXT INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PROPER SEQUENCE, DEVIATION WILL CAUSE THE CARBURETOR TO NOT FUNCTION TO ITS IDEAL SPECIFICATIONS AND MAY NOT PROVIDE THE PERFORMANCE AND FUEL ECONOMY AS DESIGNED.
   2. Start the engine, the engine will run very slowly more like a tractor. As long as the engine stays running idle speed is not important at this point.
   3. The first thing to do is not set up the idle speed, but to set the Idle mixture screw to lean best idle setting. First, turn in the mixture screw until the engine dies or runs worse, then back  out the screw (recommend turning Ό to ½ turn at a time). The engine should pick up speed and begin to smooth out. Back out ½ turn more, or until the screw does nothing or runs worse then turn back to the point where it ran its best.
   4. Use your ear, not a scope or tuning instruments at this point. You want to tune the engine by sound. Adjust to best, fastest and smoothest running point.
   5. Now that the mixture screw is at its best running location, you can adjust the Idle speed the screw. The screw will be sensitive and should only take Ό  to ½ turns to achieve the idle speed you like.
   6. Check and set idle to your driving preference. Put the car in gear and  apply slight load, (AC on) and set the Idle as you like it. Don’t set it too high, as this will cause causes excessive clutch and brake  wear. The Idle only needs to be 7 to 900 RPM with light load or AC on.
   7. Recheck timing and vacuum hook ups. Recheck mixture screw to lean best idle again. If all is still best and smoothest idle then confirm and note the final settings.
   8. To confirm settings with the engine running. Start by screwing  in the mixture screw and count the number of turns it takes to bottom out and note if the engine dies. If Idle Mixture screws are with in ½  turn of base line setting then all is well and have fun. Also check the speed screw and note how many total turns from initial contact. You may have opened (turned in) the speed screw. Your final setting should be under 2 full turns. Reset the screws (back in) to the best final settings (Per your notes) and go on a test drive and have fun. If the settings are other than described then you may want to recalibrate the Idle circuit (low speed circuit) to your engines needs. This is done by following the rule of thumb BELOW. 

 

Simple Rules for low speed calibration

If the mixture screw is more than 2 1/2  turns out turns then the Idle jet is too lean (too Small). When the mixture screw is less than 11/2  then the Idle jet is too rich (too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 11/2 turns. If the speed screw has to be opened 2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change. At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition. See pictures and notes in the tech 2 article supplied in the kit instructions, view and please understand the need to keep throttle plate as near to closed as possible so as not to prematurely expose the transition holes. This is what causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size. JET KITS are available if needed.

EXAMPLE     With the speed screw set at no more than (1 1/2) turns in after contact with the stop lever; and the best idle occurring with the mixture screw set at  3 turns from bottom, indicates the need for a larger Idle jet. Achieving the best idle at under 2 turns indicates the need for a smaller idle jet.

The secret  to understanding the critical nature of the carburetor set up and the advantages of a WEBER over other carburetors is the Idle circuit. Referred to as the low speed circuit by Weber, this circuit is responsible for 80% of the driving operation. This is the reason that the Weber should give a fuel economy improvement over most factory carbs along with significant  performance gains. In the worst case you should not see a significant fuel economy loss over stock, while improving HP & Drivability.

The Weber Carburetor is a sequentially timed device to the motor like the distributor. Time taken in the setup will provide more fun later.

If you should need to call REDLINE WEBER for technical assistance we will need to know your final settings to help. Technical assistance is free for the first 60 days of purchase. Units in service over 60 days may be assessed a service fee. All charges will be noted up front after a brief consultation to determine any possible defect. If the carb is out of the warranty period and no defect is determined we will estimate the possible cost of tech support or recommend literature available that may help.

ALL WARRANTIES ARE HANDLED DIRECTLY THROUGH REDLINE WEBER NOT THE RETAILER. DO NOT SEND PARTS TO MANUFACTURER WITHOUT CALLING FOR TUNING CONSULTATION AND WARRANTY CONFIRMATION OR INSPECTION RETURN AUTHORIZATION. PARTS RETURNED WITHOUT AUTHORIZATION NUMBERS  WILL BE REFUSED AND RETURNED FREIGHT COLLECT.

PARTS RETURNED FOR INSPECTION AND WARRANTY CONSIDERATION AND NOT FOUND TO BE DEFECTIVE WILL BE CHARGED A MINIMUM INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT CHARGE OF $35.00 AND RETURNED FREIGHT COLLECT.

Contact REDLINE WEBER at 1 800 733 2277 ex 7457 Monday thru Friday 8:00 to 5:00 Pacific Standard Time

Non warranty Tech support is on a  fee for services basis with minimum charge  of 35.00 per problem resolution   . With tech support calibration and tuning parts will be available at discount  pricing  as well as access to technical support documents and mailings
 
REDLINE
19630 Pacific Gateway Dr. Torrance, CA 90502
 800-733-2277 Press Option 3

REDLINE is a  division of WORLDPAC

 
The REDLINE Difference
www.REDLINEWEBER.com e-mail redline@redlineweber.com
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[79coyotefrg [OP]]

and another oldy but goody

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=13107.0


http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=38032.0


how to make a weber climb a hill 
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=46859.0

[79coyotefrg [OP]]

re-jet kits

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/performance_main_and_air_jet_kit.htm

[79coyotefrg [OP]]

Today at 03:20:20 PM 79coyotefrg – i never messed with those on mine, but  you can look and see what size you have
X Today at 03:19:42 PM BikerTrash – What about the idel jets that come in from the side of the carb?the jet kit I got from LC enginerring came with replacements for those as well.
X Today at 03:19:37 PM 79coyotefrg – you got a massive intake leak
X Today at 03:18:30 PM BikerTrash – 170 180
X Today at 03:18:19 PM BikerTrash – Ok so by that I should be pretty close on the fuew? just a 142 on the small bore is the difference, unless I am not reading right. let me check the airjets.
X Today at 03:17:16 PM 79coyotefrg – what about the air jets
X Today at 03:16:36 PM 79coyotefrg – http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=45126.0
X Today at 03:16:18 PM BikerTrash – th one on th big bore is a 150
X Today at 03:15:39 PM BikerTrash – ok the one on the small bore is a 140
X Today at 03:15:03 PM 79coyotefrg – bottom of the fuel bowl
X Today at 03:14:15 PM BikerTrash – ok got the carb in my hand, which jets do you want to know?
X Today at 03:13:45 PM 79coyotefrg – thanks
X Today at 03:13:40 PM 79coyotefrg – ok
X Today at 03:12:46 PM 79coyotefrg – yea i would pull the intake manifold  and check that out
X Today at 03:12:42 PM BikerTrash – Ok, I will jsut go grab it and come back
X Today at 03:12:23 PM BikerTrash – Well all the same, happy Birthday.
X Today at 03:12:18 PM 79coyotefrg – pull the top off and tell me what jets you have, sounds like they are WAY too small
X Today at 03:12:08 PM BikerTrash – Thats why I was saying, even witht he leaking base gasket, I might have leaks  else where. An ounce of prevention and all that.

[RN37DD]

i changed the side jets and it made a big difference at mid range. they are the idle jets. mine had a .45 on the primary and changing it to a .65 got rid of the lean ping at the 2000-3000 rpm range. before i had to stomp on it to go fast.. now it pulls better at midrange throttle. the secondary was a .50 and i think i left it alone. maybe a .55.

[79coyotefrg [OP]]

a few pics i found

exploded view


float adjustments



below is a 20R getting a weber installed






adapter shots

[bleakhorizon]

ok, so i just realized, that truck has a elec choke and a water choke lol.... do factory carbs have water choke's?

[79coyotefrg [OP]]

ok, so i just realized, that truck has a elec choke and a water choke lol.... do factory carbs have water choke's?

the factory 79-80 models with the 20R  they had water chokes

that guy came to my house and installed that while i showed him where to put what

[79coyotefrg [OP]]

link for making a weber climb a hill

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=46859.0

[bleakhorizon]

guess maybe this might belong under that last post




BTW its much cleaner now too   

[79coyotefrg [OP]]

[Dr.Maxwe001]

I need this for my records

[mudmaster]

The adapter is now one piece.

[amgcrawler]

nice i need this for my records as well

[austintaco]

The adapter is now one piece.

Where can I get the one piece adapter. I called two of the online bigger Weber dealers and they said they didn't make one? Who do I need to contact for the one piece?

[mudmaster]

mine came with my carb

[austintaco]

mine came with my carb

Do you remember who you ordered it from?

[mudmaster]

I can look for the receipt when I get home.

Update: I got it from webercarbsdirect.com in March of 2006. The picture on the site and my directions both show a 2 piece adapter though 

[austintaco]

I can look for the receipt when I get home.

Update: I got it from webercarbsdirect.com in March of 2006. The picture on the site and my directions both show a 2 piece adapter though 

They have them, but they just haven't updated the pics. $30. I am still debating about putting an offenhauser intake on if I can find a used one on one of the forums.

[kneedownnate]

Pm norcaltoy, he had one or two offy intakes for sale recently.

[rcbro]

So this is probably a stupid question, but I cannot find it outlined anywhere. How do you adjust the float bowl level?

[bolink654]

hey coyote.

So I got a weber 32/36 yesterday and put it on. I have an 82 Toyota but with I believe a stock 79 or 80 20r out of a celica or 2wd pickup (i know it didnt come from a 4wd because they let the axle hit & dent the pan) The carb ran great. Rich, but i need to get some jets. My old stock carb did not run at ALL and wouldnt idle below 2,000rpm..
Today I hooked up the choke and started it. Ran good. I killed it because I wanted to check timing and some other things. I started it back up and it ran bad, and had a hissing coming from around the carb somewhere. I assumed it was the adapter plates so I pulled it all off, added rtv silicone then put it back on. Same exact noise. So then I thought it might be that EGR plate. I took it off, added rtv, and put it back on. Same hissing.

I guess my question is 2 part. 1. Can it leak vacuum from anywhere else on the carb?
2. If I have vacuum on the intake, but not at the port on the carb, does that mean my leak is at the plates? Or does it mean nothing.

[79coyotefrg [OP]]

can you get some pictures??

is your PCV valve in good shape?

[bolink654]

I will get pictures tomorrow, its bad windy here right now, like its gonna storm. (dunno if it is)

I got the hissing and vacuum leak to stop. took it all apart once more and did a much neater, prettier RTV job on it.

I think the only issues I have now are when ya first get into the throttle it'll cough and puke a little, then it winds out fine but I'm gettin a lil smoke out the exhaust at anything but idle. Timing is at 5* with vac advance disconnected... since I'm not sure exactly what engine i have, I chose the middle one. I have done the thing on the weber site with the idle speed and mixture screws, but I havent checked to see how many turns in/out i am yet.

This is the best its ran since I got it though. That old stock carb had soo much slop in the throttle shafts.

Edit: I dunno about the PCV valve. I will check. It wiggles around in the valve cover - prolly not great.

[79coyotefrg [OP]]

heres how you need to hook up your distributor advance

[bolink654]

My dizzy doesnt have the 2 chamber vacuum advance. Only one chamber/port...

[Blingn]

i know need this info ty

[bolink654]

Ok here is pictures. 2 days late, I know.
I got the manual choke 32/36, which also doesn't have the fuel cut seleniod, I'm fine with all that though. BTW when I said "prettier, neater RTV job" i meant "glob the crap on", but I did make sure none oozed out inside. The little square box on the pass. inner fender is an electric fuel pump a PO installed. It runs at 3-3.5 PSI

[79coyotefrg [OP]]

electric pumps should be near the tank so they push fuel instead of sucking.

sounds like you're going in the right direction

[79coyotefrg [OP]]

So this is probably a stupid question, but I cannot find it outlined anywhere. How do you adjust the float bowl level?

first you remove the top of the carb (6 screws and the choke actuator) then turn it upside down and use these measurements