Author Topic: Gearing  (Read 8847 times)

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JoeShmo65

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Gearing
« on: Dec 02, 2007, 10:28:11 PM »
Alright heres the deal my yota right now with running 35's with stock yota axle gears, i was planning on buying 5:29 gear and pinion but my friend said i shouldnt go with 5:29 wat do u think so i go with 5:29 or a lil lower??
o and i want to do crawling and off roading but i wanna drive to the trails instead of trailering the truck there and back
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Tallchevy

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #1 on: Dec 02, 2007, 10:39:53 PM »
I have 5.29 in my daily driver 87 Runner with 35's

4.88 or 5.29 for 35's  :twocents:
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JoeShmo65 [OP]

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #2 on: Dec 02, 2007, 10:45:16 PM »
lol that wat i thought i would like to out crawl most of my friends so i would probly choose 5:29's XD my friend probly dont want me out crawlen him hahha
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Re: Gearing
« Reply #3 on: Dec 02, 2007, 10:58:10 PM »
This might help you decide if your rig is a daily driver but there are a lot of guys running larger tires with stock gears but have dual cases.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/wheels/129_0604_choosing_the_right_ratio/index.html

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JoeShmo65 [OP]

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #4 on: Dec 03, 2007, 07:52:38 AM »
well i wanna eventaully put dual cases on my truck but itll be in the late future and no the truck isent a daily driver im slowly setting it up for only off roading but like i said i dont wanna have to trailer it to the trails
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JoeShmo65 [OP]

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #5 on: Dec 03, 2007, 08:05:51 AM »
well i figure im gunna do 5:29 ring and pinion who u think u should buy from?? also my friend says that 5:29's break easy is that true?
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OOPS

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #6 on: Dec 03, 2007, 08:23:19 AM »
well i figure im gunna do 5:29 ring and pinion who u think u should buy from?? also my friend says that 5:29's break easy is that true?
5:29's are fine and do not break any easier then other gears. Your final drive ratio is not going to be that much lower then stock so consider that when you are wheeling. If you feel yourself getting bound up, back up and take a different line. Get the dual cases (from Marlin of course) ASAP. Since you do not state what year or engine you have it is hard to tell you what the cheapest way to go as far as the t-cases.
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JoeShmo65 [OP]

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #7 on: Dec 03, 2007, 08:33:27 AM »
iev got a 1980 toyota pick up i just put a 22-re engine in it (which is carburated not efi) and i was looking at marlins ring and pinion and they were way more expensive than trail gear is it bc they are better for some reason or just cause??
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Re: Gearing
« Reply #8 on: Dec 03, 2007, 08:46:49 AM »
if your talking about the first gen in your avatar  i would  go with dual cases first,  it will greatly improve your front driveshaft angles

and  like OOPS  said,  5.29's  dont break  any  easier than a 4.10   if they are set up properly  (and use quality gears)

ive heard 4.37's break easy but my 437's have almost 400,000 miles on them

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JoeShmo65 [OP]

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #9 on: Dec 03, 2007, 08:56:27 AM »
i aint got the money for the duals yet will it make a big dif if i ust put 5:29's in??
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Tallchevy

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #10 on: Dec 03, 2007, 09:03:05 AM »
The cost is about the same if you do duals or gears. Go duals  :yesnod:
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JoeShmo65 [OP]

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #11 on: Dec 03, 2007, 09:10:17 AM »
ok im confused im still learning i just got into the whole gearing and duals t case stuff. but to regear my truck dont all i have to get is ring and pinion?? (probly a stupid question for u guys lol)
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jonathan82toy

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #12 on: Dec 03, 2007, 09:14:48 AM »
and a setup kit
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fordh8r

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #13 on: Dec 03, 2007, 09:16:43 AM »
ok im confused im still learning i just got into the whole gearing and duals t case stuff. but to regear my truck dont all i have to get is ring and pinion?? (probly a stupid question for u guys lol)
You would have to get ring and pinions for front and rear. It is also best recommended that you get the install kits which include new bearings and seals and crush sleeve which you'll need for the build.  You could split the cost for different times if you choose to do the rear first and run it for a while but you'll have to do the front before you do any wheeling.  

JoeShmo65 [OP]

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #14 on: Dec 03, 2007, 09:19:24 AM »
so im trying to read the marlin production stuff and all i need to have dual cases is the MC08 Dual Transfer Case Adapters or MC07 Dual Transfer Case Adapters?? is that right??
so im looking at bout....500-600 bucks??
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Re: Gearing
« Reply #15 on: Dec 03, 2007, 09:19:49 AM »
(2) Yukon 4Cyl 4.88 R&P Gear Sets + (2) Yukon 4Cyl Setup Kits, $499
 (2) Yukon 4Cyl 5.29 R&P Gear Sets + (2) Yukon 4Cyl Setup Kits, $499

 
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JoeShmo65 [OP]

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #16 on: Dec 03, 2007, 09:23:55 AM »
ya i was just looking at that and
      MC-14102, MC08, 21 Spline Kit, $499
   MC-14103, MC08, 23 Spline Kit, $499
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JoeShmo65 [OP]

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #17 on: Dec 03, 2007, 09:27:58 AM »
so u guys all say i should go with dual tcases for now and late re gear my axles?
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79coyotefrg

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #18 on: Dec 03, 2007, 09:59:57 AM »
go dual cases  :cheer:
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #19 on: Dec 03, 2007, 03:39:57 PM »
Do you DD your truck?  Cause 5.29's will save your clutch and gas money, which is money to get duels later.  Also take in to consideration that if you do duels than you need drive shafts which if they're quality shafts could be another 500 bucks. Just something for you to ponder on. 

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #20 on: Dec 03, 2007, 10:35:37 PM »
no its not a DD but i wanna be able to drive it to the trails and ya depending how this deal goes bc i might get 2 yota axles with 5:29's in for 500 bucks and if i do than i can sell my old axles for a lil and have a head start on the tcases but if the guy already sold the axles than ill go straight for the tcases so we'll see how things turn out and can i have the drive shaft redone??
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Re: Gearing
« Reply #21 on: Dec 04, 2007, 08:58:11 AM »
i have the drive shaft redone??
Yep!!!!! Any D-shaft shop should be able to shorten the rear and make the front longer. One other thing you should get a long slip joint for the front, if not when you flex it out on the PS it will come apart.
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Re: Gearing
« Reply #22 on: Dec 04, 2007, 09:08:54 AM »
well i figure im gunna do 5:29 ring and pinion who u think u should buy from?? also my friend says that 5:29's break easy is that true?

5.29's have less contact teeth then 4.10's do so it does make it weaker if u think about it.

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #23 on: Dec 04, 2007, 02:43:18 PM »
5.29's have less contact teeth then 4.10's do so it does make it weaker if u think about it.

-Thomas

I have also heard this bit of information from the guy who did my gears.  He also said that the lower the gears the smaller the pinion shaft gears get and once you've gone so lo the pinion gears can become as small if not smaller than the shaft it's self.  I run 5.29's and love em no problems yet.

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #24 on: Dec 04, 2007, 04:52:07 PM »
this was taken from the FAQ on pirate

Originally posted by DSI
----------------------------------------------------
83-older 4.11 diff's are 37/9 and are 8in 4cyl style diff's, in 84 they switched th the 41/10 ratio, any time you have more teeth to a pinion the stronger the diff will be, reason being: more tooth contact/more teeth contacting the ring gear at one time.
This is the same reason 5.71's are very weak, 6 teeth, 5.29's have 7, 4.88's and 4.38's have 8, 4.56's have 9 and 411's have 9, 410's have 10, and 390's have 10
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Re: Gearing
« Reply #25 on: Dec 05, 2007, 04:50:08 PM »
Misinformed, misled, how else can you put it?

The fact of the matter is, it is true the gears are smaller giving less gear-to-gear contact for a given gear ratio comparison only if the gear manufacturers were dumb enough to produce it that way.  Fortunately enough, gear manufacturers who are worth their name produce gears that are equally strong no matter what gear ratio you purchase.  How?  Materials for one; materials and manufacturing techniques have evolved resulting in stronger, longer lasting gears.  Second, the ring gear is thicker than the smaller gear ratios.  Thicker is stronger.  Third, the pinion head itself is larger, which makes up for the "less gear-to-gear" contact. 

So are 5.29's weaker?  By no means.  Point in case -- read this article Zuk regarding the "weakness" of 5.71's.  http://www.gearinstalls.com/410suck.htm

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #26 on: Dec 05, 2007, 08:32:54 PM »
That is a good article! Thanks for the link.

Blazer707

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Re: Gearing
« Reply #27 on: Dec 05, 2007, 09:05:55 PM »
yea good article ive read some of those gear installs before.

-Thomas
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Re: Gearing
« Reply #28 on: Dec 05, 2007, 09:06:42 PM »
Just some FYI: TG uses cheaper (specificaly, Chinese) materials, hence the lower price. If you want quality, American-made parts, Marlin Crawler has you covered. The same can't be said for other companies such as TG.

As for gears VS dual cases, it all depends on how much you drive your truck. I lifted my 85, ran 35s (with 4.0 case gears) and 5.29s for the last year. I couldnt have been happier. I already had a pretty low low range but I still got good gas mileage and I had good power on the street. I just went dual cases and it is fantastic. Looking back, I am glad I went with case gears and axle gears BEFORE dual cases, because the dual cases dont do anything for you on the street. If you have big rubber and dual cases you are still going to be hurting on the street. On-pavement performance was important to me because I DD my 4runner, so i went axle gears before dual cases. If its more trail rig than street rig and power and gas mileage arent a concern, duals is a great addition. Just remember the front driveshaft needs to be lengthened (a square shaft is a cheap fix) and the rear needs to be shortened (not so cheap if you want it done right).

As for what gears are right for you.....

Up to 35s - go with 4.88s

35s and Up - go with 5.29s.

I went 5.29s and they are great with my 35s. Going 37s soon and IMO, 5.29s are perfect for a 35 and larger tire. I wouldnt get 5.29s if 35 was the MAX tire size i wanted to run.
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Re: Gearing
« Reply #29 on: Dec 05, 2007, 10:24:31 PM »
If it's not a DD rig, and mostly a wheelin' rig, I'd highly recommend duals.  The billet mc-08 is ~$500, but the cast MC-07 (and MC07-R10) are only $350.

Gears are awesome for a DD rig....but if it's a wheelin' rig, you'll get far, far, far more bang for your buck with duals.

 
 
 
 
 

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