Topic: FEAR OF RUNNER build up (dual case time)

[Fearofrunner]

All right i guess it's time i start my own build thread now that I'm expecting to get my  lift here this week. Just to warn everyone it's going to be a slow build up because I'm going to school and working full time but hey at least you guys will get some new pictures to look at, cause i plan on posting alot of em  .

anyways heres my truck,



It's an 84 runner with the carbed 22r, stock gearing and stock suspension.  the engine has just the basic mods, cut air box with a K&N, Thorley header bolting up to 2.25 pipe going through a high flow cat to a magnaflow exhaust and ending with a polished stainless steal tip , advanced the timing to 13* and added a black magic flex-a-lite fan, has decent power now and still get around 20 miles to the gallon in the city.  Stereo consists of a kenwood deck running to clarion 6X9's and two 4 in tweeters in the front.  2 MTX 4000 12 in a bandpass box with a rockford fosgate 250 watt amp.

Plans for the future is to get the lift put on have shafts made by tom woods 4Xshafts(cause his shops just a few miles from my house ), 5.29 gears with an Aussie locker in the back, 35X12.50X15 (haven't decided yet on BFG mudds AT or wrangler MTR's) and this, that i just bought yesterday for a $100! 


V6 axel off of a 93 4runner (thanks Blair ) I pulled it all apart last night to find the shaft splines and gears to be in factory condition, along with the bearings and brake pads to be brand new.  The previous owner had already cut the spring perches off so that saved me a half of a grinder wheel. 

[DTB]

sweet! cant wait to see the build! I have those same HF jackstands! 

[Fearofrunner [OP]]

lol those aren't mine actually there the guys that i bought the axel from.  I'd like to get some though there pretty stout.  I should have took my camera over to his house, cause the runner he had was pretty sweet.

[Shoyrtt]

Plans for the future is to get the lift put on have shafts made by tom woods 4Xshafts(cause his shops just a few miles from my house ), 5.29 gears with an Aussie locker in the back, 35X12.50X15 (haven't decided yet on BFG mudds AT or wrangler MTR's) and this, that i just bought yesterday for a $100! 

I would recommend the MTRs. Great in the rocks and aired down.  They also wear well on the street. Tire Rack has a good deal on them at $177 per tire for a 35". Also you can go to a 37" tire for $211. In my run at the Hammers over the weekend, I wish I had a slightly larger tire than my 35s.

What locker are you planning to run up front?

[Fearofrunner [OP]]

I would recommend the MTRs. Great in the rocks and aired down.  They also wear well on the street. Tire Rack has a good deal on them at $177 per tire for a 35". Also you can go to a 37" tire for $211. In my run at the Hammers over the weekend, I wish I had a slightly larger tire than my 35s.

What locker are you planning to run up front?

I dont think i'm gonna run one up front just yet, i want to see how all the stuff that i got planned is going to do first.  I really like the MTR's a buddy of mine has them on his bronco i just can't find them for a good price yet, i'll have to check out that tire rack and see what they got.

Shoyrtt I've read over your build up and like what you did with your runner. I'm building mine up almost exactly like your rig, just not sure about the shock placement in the back if i want to angle them like yours or just run them straight up and down???  I really like your truck though great build up thread too.

How's that aussie you like it?

[Fearofrunner [OP]]

 

[John Doe]

Sounds like your heading in the right direction. Keep it coming. 

[Shoyrtt]

I dont think i'm gonna run one up front just yet, i want to see how all the stuff that i got planned is going to do first.  I really like the MTR's a buddy of mine has them on his bronco i just can't find them for a good price yet, i'll have to check out that tire rack and see what they got.

Shoyrtt I've read over your build up and like what you did with your runner. I'm building mine up almost exactly like your rig, just not sure about the shock placement in the back if i want to angle them like yours or just run them straight up and down???  I really like your truck though great build up thread too.

How's that aussie you like it?

If you end up with the Marlin trail flex kit, you will need to run the rear 12" shocks at an angle, unless you want to punch some holes in the floor. I do like the Aussie Locker. So far no problems front and rear. Another good purchase so far has been the 5.29s that were cryoed by Longfield (I bought them at the same time I picked up the 30 splines). 

So what are the plans for the lift, steering, t-case gears etc.? My rig was nice and clean at one time... so how long until we see some nice scratches on that paint.

[Fearofrunner [OP]]

If you end up with the Marlin trail flex kit, you will need to run the rear 12" shocks at an angle, unless you want to punch some holes in the floor. I do like the Aussie Locker. So far no problems front and rear. Another good purchase so far has been the 5.29s that were cryoed by Longfield (I bought them at the same time I picked up the 30 splines). 

So what are the plans for the lift, steering, t-case gears etc.? My rig was nice and clean at one time... so how long until we see some nice scratches on that paint.

Well it looks like I'll be mounting the shocks at an angle then cause i don't want to cut up the truck more than i have to.  I ordered the 4" trail flex from marlin that I've been saving up for for months.  the Aussie locker was kind of a spur of the moment deal but again i got the idea from your thread and did a little research, it has alot more positive benefits for my situation being that this is my dd and you can't beat the price. 
T-gears are just going to stay stock for now until my clutch goes out then I'll decide if i want to go to the 4.7 or not cause i don't see the point in pulling the tranny twice it's enough pain in the  as it is. adding another reduction box will come way into the future when the runner becomes a strictly moab truck (i already have the wheeler disease ) lol

One question though before i decide to order my gears, why get them cryoed?  I understand that it makes the metal stronger but I've also read that it can make it more brittle???

Thanks for the replies guys your keeping my motivation going especially now that school has started.  I'll try to post more pics but i haven't really done anything interesting lately.  Unless anyone wants to see how i hooked my new proportioning valve up for cheep (which helped a ton to get the bake brakes working again).
I also put in a generic dome light in the rear of the runner to replace that dim factory light can post pics of that too and how i hooked it up??? 

[Shoyrtt]

Let's start with the 4" kit. If it isn't too late and if you plan on keeping that hard top, call Marlin and get the 5" springs for the rear. You will end up with less issues on tire/fender contact and avoid the dreaded saggy rear end.

Why cryo the gears? Longfield seems to be the undisputed leader in the field of creating and improving upon Toyota axles and gears. Longfield claims the cryoed 5.29 gears are stronger, and so far, he appears to be right. If the cryoed gear sets (again from Longfield) were a problem, they wouldn't be on the market and/or there would be a long line of people complaining aboput the product. 

Pictures are good. Let's see that trick proportioning valve or that new dome light.  Remember I have picture of a band-aid on my thread, so you won't offend anyone around here.

[MisfitDave]

Hey whats up Fearofrunner?  You gonna have all this done in time to go with me to Moab in the spring?  It sounds like its coming pretty good, I'm jealous of the rear end you found, nice!  I'd definately post the pics of the proportioning valve, I'll need some reference for when I get mine.  Oh, and I got the 35x12.50 Goodyear MTR's and they look sick, I've also done alot of research and they sound like the best.  Just make sure and put them on 15x10s and not 8s, it makes all the difference!

[CTENG in KS]

Makes all the difference in what?  Blowing beads?

[jimbo74]

for jackstands, get the harbor freight 12 ton jackstands, they cost more than the littler ones but are worth it because they are tall

[toytank]

 

[Fearofrunner [OP]]

OK heres how i did the proportioning valve



this is the old Master cylinder(MC) on top of the new Master cylinder(MC), the only differences between the two is the old MC has a 13/16" boar and the new MC (off of a 91 V6 pickup) is a 1 inch boar. Also, the front hardline had to be twisted back (by hand) to fit into the insert of the new MC.  as you can see the previous hardline insert was on top of the MC where as the new one is on the side.



This is the Wilwood proportioning valve.



the fittings that came with the proportioning valve are a standard thread 1/8-27 NPT to 3/8-24 inverted flair with lock tight applied to the threads that's how it comes from summit racing http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WIL%2D260%2D8419&N=700+400196+115&autoview=sku


now this is where my old man saved me alot of time. originally i went to Erik's 4runner site http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/ and this is where i got the idea to put the Wilwood valve on, I was also going to put it on the same way erik didhttp://home.4x4wire.com/erik/4runner/brakes/wilwood.jpg  but found it very hard to find all the right fittings from my local NAPA. So my dad suggested that we use two standard 3/8"-24 male fittings and flared them onto the 4runners factory hardline. 

I then went to my local autozone and rented a standard flaring tool (they have a metric flaring tool also but it wasn't need because the fittings are standard) and a hardline bender for a total of $37.41 (which you get back when you return the tools).   I didn't need the bender but got it just in case the lines had to be bent sharper then i could do by hand and risk kinking the line.

this is the best site i found to understand how to flare hardline http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/flaretool/ft-1.htm

First, I unscrewed the rear brake line from the MC
Second, I cut the line where the proportioning valve would fit the best and away from any bends in the line.
Third, i flared the fittings onto the hardline's
Last, tightened the fittings on the valve while lining up the factory fitting with the MC.

 

[Fearofrunner [OP]]

The reason I added this manual valve was to do away with the rear LSPV (load sensing proportioning valve) that are notorious for rusting up and not allowing enough pressure to the back brakes.  Alot of Toyota owners will cut the arm from where it attaches to the axel and tie it up so that it allows the most pressure possible to the rear brakes.  With the new valve i will be able to control how much pressure is going to the back with a simple turn of a knob.

Now that i got the valve on it was time to remove the old LSPV from the back and tie the pressure line into the brake line.

This is where the LSPV use to be, (right by the rear passengerside tire where it is subjected to all the junk your tires flip up)



i used a metric union 10mm-1.0 female both ends to tie the pressure line to the hardline that feed's the rear brakes.



When you take the LSPV off you'll be left with three hardlines one is comming off of a mount that is holding the flex line that feeds the rear brakes.  The other two lines will be side by side running along the frame with a rubber garmet seperating the two from rubbing each other and also the frame of the truck.

 

The line with pressure is going to be the bottom hardline, the line that is above it is the return line.  The return line must be plugged for it's not going to be used again but could allow air into the system if left open.

now you have two choices here you can either plug the return line like i did or plug it at the T joint on the frame in front of the passenger door.  to plug it at the line like i did you'll need to get another metric union (10mm-1.0 female both ends) same as what was used above to tie the lines, and a
(3/8"-24 IF female to 10mm-1.0 male) and then a standard 3/8"-24 plug. (which is the silver fitting closest to my finger)



I then twisted the return line up and out of the way along with the pressure lines  so that nothing will snag them when off-roading. 

Now just to warn you the  (3/8"-24 IF female to 10mm-1.0 male) which is the middle fitting that the plug is threaded into, is kinda expensive and NAPA was the only place i could find that carried that fitting.  What it is, is converting metric threads (which is what toyota has is metric threads) to standard threads (which is what the USA uses standard threads).This is why Eriks set up was so hard for me to figure out because he used two of these conversion fittings and extra hardline to make his proportioning valve work. Also the location of his valve would get so corroded up where i live that opting for the engine bay location was better over all. 

The way I've done it is alot simpler, does the same thing, and is going to cost less to do than buying it from front range offroad http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=57&osCsid=329cfc10d5f76075702ad0cfe70fdac5.  Even though it might be worth the extra money to just get their kit that takes all the hassle out of finding all the right fittings, doing it this way i saved twenty bucks or more and learned alot about brakes. That and i didn't know about FROR till after i bought everything

One more thing you have to bleed your brakes after doing anything like this, the best way is

Rear driverside
Rear passangerside
Front passengerside
Front driverside
LSPV (load sensing proportioning valve) (if you have one that is )

[Fearofrunner [OP]]

Just found out that the packages from marlin are in town and should be shipped to the house today.   Well only 4 out of the 9 are here the others I'm not sure about   I think they're settin in marlins shop still.  Ill post some pic's of the stuff that is comming tonight if it's there when i get home.

[Fearofrunner [OP]]

i was loosing  hope about getting my stuff tonight but the brown bagger came through for me 







The stuff looks alot smaller in a picture, but if you've got stuff from marlin you know how HUGE everything is, wow.  Looks like their back ordered on springs and steering stuff but can't put it on now anyways with the weather the way it is. 

[MisfitDave]

Very nice!  Good idea waitin till it warms up, I'm trying to work in it and that cold spell we had was killer!  Any plans for the differentials?

[Birfailed]

Ooo...I love seeing what the UPS man brings   I'll have to post pics of my Longfield 30's, hopefully on friday!  Check out my buildup about the 1/4 ellip, nothing new lately on it since all my work has been on paper but I'll post the longs when I get em.  Nice lookin rig btw! 

[Fearofrunner [OP]]

Very nice!  Good idea waitin till it warms up, I'm trying to work in it and that cold spell we had was killer!  Any plans for the differentials?

Well still planning on 5.29's but the locker I'm not sure about now,  a different post that i replied to said that Aussie doesn't have a locker for the V6 4 pinion?? anyone hear any different or can convince me that this is true?

[Fearofrunner [OP]]

Longfield 30's, hopefully on friday!

Luckhee 

[Fearofrunner [OP]]

  question but can anyone tell me what this is for  I'm puzzeled

[MiniSimp]

You weld that plate to the perch on the drivers side of the front axle.
On toyota front axles the DS perch is 3/8" lower than the PS.

[Volcom]

question but can anyone tell me what this is for  I'm puzzeled

It's a 3/8 spring pad (spacer) that you place on the driver side to match the passenger side.  The two spring perches are not equal in height from the factory.

EDIT - MiniSimp beat me to it 

[Fearofrunner [OP]]

Man I'm a  , Thanks guys much appreciated

[Fearofrunner [OP]]

well yesterday i called Marlin and had them change my rear spring order to the 5".  tocostewie and who ever i talked to at marlin both recommend running the inch bigger springs do to the weight of the the shell and what not.  So that's for the suggestion Shoyrtt

Another question though, I e-mailed aussie about the v6 locker and haven't got a reply back yet.  If it does turn out that they don't make one I'm thinking I'll still get one for the 4cyl 3rd member and run it in the V6 axel and put the open V6 3rd member in the front axel and run it until i can afford a Detroit or Arb.  Then I'll switch them back and have a locked front and rear?  Good idea??

[Volcom]

Another question though, I e-mailed aussie about the v6 locker and haven't got a reply back yet.  If it does turn out that they don't make one I'm thinking I'll still get one for the 4cyl 3rd member and run it in the V6 axel and put the open V6 3rd member in the front axel and run it until i can afford a Detroit or Arb.  Then I'll switch them back and have a locked front and rear?  Good idea??

Aussie don't make a locker for the V-6.  Just the 4cyl diffs.  If you go with the ARB, you'd probably want that in the front anyways.  If you go Detroit, don't run it in the front with stock Birfields.  If you break a birfield, you will ruin the Detroit.  Run the Detroit in the rear and you won't have a problem.

[Shoyrtt]

The stuff looks alot smaller in a picture, but if you've got stuff from marlin you know how HUGE everything is, wow.  Looks like their back ordered on springs and steering stuff but can't put it on now anyways with the weather the way it is. 

I wonder what springs Marlin sends you; import or domestic.

[Birfailed]

Can you really ruin a detroit by snapping birfs?  I haven't heard of that before.  I have a lock right in the front of mine and broke birfs.  What happens to the detroit when a birf let's go?