Paint Guys (runs in clear)

Started by blyota91, November 03, 2007, 05:46:05 AM

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blyota91

I finished painting my truck last weekend.  First time I have a ever painted anything with a spray gun.  I started out with a high build primer, then used a basecoat, then a clear.  If it matters the clear is a urethane clear.  The primers and the base came of pretty good for having no experience or idea what I was really doing.  The clear came out great in place, not so great in others.  I've got some pretty nasty runs I would like to tone down at least, not looking for perfect.  What sorts of tools or techniques do I need to accomplish this?

Thanks
Andrew
Retiring the 91
Rebuilding the 94


brainlessfool

and then respray the clear.
also giving that you said this is your frist time spraying I've found that most ppl go a bit heavy the frist time, not a hole lot just a bit to heavy.

then the next two or three they go way to lite and get "orenge peal"

don't be afread to put it on, just watch for it to "gloss out". and then move on.
A good day working, that's just sick :reg:

blyota91

I didn't have the best lighting conditions for doing the clear, some of it came of very nice though.  The worst of my runs are one of the first places I started out.
Retiring the 91
Rebuilding the 94

Ruari

I just painted my truck and I have areas of lots of orange peal and areas of lots of runs.  My friend used to work in an auto body shop and said to use a razor blade to carefully cut down the clear runs and then wet sand it with 1500 grit.
Ruari Legg

'84 X-TRA cab, 5.29 Front F-J80 high pinion e-locker/5.29 rear Tacoma e-locker, R.O.R.E. e-locker skid plates, MC dual t-case #480, MC 4.70 gears #1755, Budbuilt crossmember, MC crossover steering, Howe hydro-assist steering, Alcan springs with Orbit Eyes, FRORF full floater, TRD cam, LC Engineering adjustable cam gear, distributer, solid steel engine mounts, longfields, 35"x13.5 BFG Krawlers.

brainlessfool

Quote from: Ruari on November 03, 2007, 03:41:19 PM
  My friend used to work in an auto body shop and said to use a razor blade to carefully cut down the clear runs and then wet sand it with 1500 grit.

that's an old body man trick, you have to be good to use it.
A good day working, that's just sick :reg:

red

i wouldnt recommend the razorblade work unless your experianced with painting. very, very easy to mess up and cut down all the way to the base metal. just wet sand and respray the clear coat. if its just a body panel or two tape off the other panels and wet sand the messed up panel, then respray that panel.

so if you messed up on the passanger door, tape off the body panels around that door, resand the door, then respray it. since you just painted the truck this trick will work (paint hasnt faded).
read and comment :whip:

USAF EOD tech

Thomas P

x4 ive had the same problem, but wet sanded and resprayed for a flawless finish
'85 EFI X cab SR5. 42" Iroks, Dual ultimates etc.
'84 Std. cab  Yota, Chevy 4.3 swapped (makes v8's cry)
'88 4 Runner 39.5" Iroks FJ80 front, taco rear elockers dual ultimates
'07 Toyota Tundra crew max 5.7 (grocery getter/tow rig)
'14 Camry SE
SCX10 Honcho on roids!

86bobbedtoy

How much thinner is everyone using?
The more thinner the less orange peel I use 5-20% depending on conditions
But it make it 10x harder not to get runs but on the otherhand you tend to spray less because there is less orange peel to cover up. I do 2 coats, But I have years of experience.
But yeah just let it completely dry and sand it out dry or wet but use wetdry paper.
good luck

kneedownnate

Quote from: Ruari on November 03, 2007, 03:41:19 PM
I just painted my truck and I have areas of lots of orange peal and areas of lots of runs.  My friend used to work in an auto body shop and said to use a razor blade to carefully cut down the clear runs and then wet sand it with 1500 grit.

I have a paint nibbler coming supposedly (been on order for atleast a month) that's for sanding the runs and drips.  It's a little block with little file like teeth set just below the edges.  I'd assume it's rubber so it doesn't mar the paint, but you just lightly run it over the run and it'll sand it down close to flat, then sand like everybody else is saying.
RIP KYOTA

You can go through life being scared of the possible, or you can have a little fun and tease the inevitable.

Give a man venison, he'll eat for a day. Teach a man to hunt Blacktail, he'll be frustrated for life!

Willy Mammoth

The one I had was a little wooden block with a body file looking piece on it. They are ok, but you can do damage with it too.

If the paint is good and dry it shouldn't rub off or peal away from the base.

If you have a steady hand you can use a razor blade standing up on end at 90* to the finish, lightly scrape it along the length of the run back and forth. Just slowly take the high spot off till it is flush with the surounding aera. Keep in mind the high side above the run may not have as much thickness and may be easier to go through. If you didn't leave any cuts or skip marks you could buff the rest out, but a light sanding may be needed first with 1200.

Any pics of how bad they are?
:usa: American by birth, redneck by choice. 

Making Of http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=6472.0  

Sightings Of  http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=10805.0

TheTransporter

if your gonna use a razor blade, round off the corners at the ends of the blade with like 800 grit paper. it only takes a few seconds to do this and there is less of a chance for the edge of the blade to do more damage.
you think nobody cares about you? try missing a couple of car payments.

Hyena

You aren't suppose to cut the run with the razor blade.  you are suppose to scrape it carefully.  scrape it till it is flush with the paint, then wet sand it.

Willy Mammoth

Quote from: Hyena on November 05, 2007, 03:06:27 PM
You aren't suppose to cut the run with the razor blade.  you are suppose to scrape it carefully.  scrape it till it is flush with the paint, then wet sand it.

:yesnod: Scrape , cut   :nope:


If you hadn't waited till it setup you could have taped it out.  :yupyup:

I just had to do that with the inside of my hood when I got a little carried away on the first coat.  :_oops:


:usa: American by birth, redneck by choice. 

Making Of http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=6472.0  

Sightings Of  http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=10805.0

TheTransporter

yes, scrape. you just take the edges off so there is even less of a chance to put small scrape marks in the paint
you think nobody cares about you? try missing a couple of car payments.

kneedownnate

RIP KYOTA

You can go through life being scared of the possible, or you can have a little fun and tease the inevitable.

Give a man venison, he'll eat for a day. Teach a man to hunt Blacktail, he'll be frustrated for life!

KDXSR5


blyota91

I'll see if I can get some, kind of embarrassed  :shake:  I shouldn't be as I've never painted in my life.  I don't have time to respray the clear as it's going to start snowing in the next day or two and I only have my truck and my motorcycle. 
Retiring the 91
Rebuilding the 94

86bobbedtoy

just sand them out and buff the hell out of it.

Plekto

I personally prefer the old-school laquer approach.  At least 6-10 coats of paint and clear mixed together and a buttload of wet sanding.  Expect it to take a week or more to finish.  Another dirty trick if you're *not* using metallic pain is to put a tiny bit of it into the clear to tint it and help blend the imperfections a bit.(I'm talking about a teaspoon or less per gallon - you should hardly see the effect)   Mercedes does this trick on their new cars and it looks great(they also matching tint the windows which is slick).