Dodge Recommendations

[Shamb]

So I think i'm going to retire the Tahoe and buy something with a little more power/braking and a bed!

After cruising my grandpa's and buddies 07's i've feel in love with the 6 speed tranny, pulling power and gas milage.

I can't afford to drop $30-40K on a truck sooo.. here are my questions.


1. Can I find a decent newer *maybe 00'* for around $15k or so?

2. What are some things I should be looking in specific years?

3. Should I go with a diesle or gas?  I'm leaning twords diesle only because i've been told they last longer and have better mileage *life expectance and on road mileage

4. What years/models should I be looking for specifically?

I've been thinking of a dually but I really don't think i'll utilize it.. i'm just hauling my toyota and trailer.. maybe 6k lbs?

Thanks for any helpful info, I won't be putting my rig up for sale until after MCR because I need to ensure that I have a tow rig for now.

My big concerns are as follows

Running gear (gotta handle that weight with ease)
Engine (gotta pull my pile up those steep hills)
NO aftermarket crap, I do not want a lift and could really careless about tires ect ect.. its just a tow vehicle nothing more.
Brakes, right now I rely strongly on my trailer brakes because the Tahoe has a hard time slowing itself down let alone a truck and trailer behind it.

Thanks!

Shamb

[Caboose]

I have an 96 Ram 1500.  it has the 5.9 V8.  Gets 8mpg but will haul anything you put behind it.  Only problem, it cant stop worth a dang. 

I recommend the new dodges with the C Diesel.  I saw one of those pull a school buss off of a rock.  Wanted one ever since.

[Shamb]

So the older 90's model Dodges have crap brakes.. or ?

[Caboose]

mine do.  i towed my rig home from chico and thought i was gonna crash about 4 times.  no joke.  i will never do that again w/out a trailer with assist breaks.  although, it did move it with no problems.  lol

[Blingn]

speaking from experience, I had a 98 ram 1500 brakes were ok not the best at all.  I towed my jeep for 2 years with it.  It would ping like a popcorn machine.  So I would drive it at night and drive it with octane boost to try to limit the ping.  In those years they had alot of pinging problems in the 5.9 I can show you all the tsb's if ya need them.  I do though love the diesel's with the manual transmissions.  That way you can use the gears to slow you down a little more.  Also my trans made noises at the very end when I was selling it.  It was an auto.  I am just trying to tell you my experience with it.  

[Tool Pimp]

Read this link http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=33852.0
keep in mind this only affects the shift on the fly if you get a manual shift t-case your good. just my 

[Blingn]

NUMBER: 18-05-00 Rev F

GROUP: Vehicle Performance

DATE: September 15, 2000

THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 18-05-00 REV E, DATED SEPTEMBER 01, 2000 WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS** AND INCLUDE AN EMISSIONS PACKAGE UPDATE TO THE TABLE.

SUBJECT:
1998 Model Year Engine Spark Knock

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with new software (calibration level 98Cal12 and 98Cal12C)

MODELS:
1998      (AB)      Ram Van
1998      (AN)      Dakota
1998      (BR/BE)   Ram Truck
1998      (DN)      Durango
1998      (XJ)      Cherokee



 



NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A GASOLINE ENGINE. SEE THE TABLE FOR SPECIFIC APPLICATION.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some vehicle engines may exhibit a light-to-moderate spark knock condition during acceleration (under load).

DIAGNOSIS:

1. Verify that the following NOTE(S) have been reviewed and completed as necessary.

2. Verify that the engine coolant contains the correct mixture of a quality antifreeze to water. The coolant mixture should consist of 44% to 68% antifreeze.

3. If the only condition seen is the light-to-moderate engine spark knock, perform the Repair Procedure.

NOTE: VERIFY THAT TSB 18-48-98 HAS BEEN COMPLETED.

NOTE: THIS FEATURE WILL NOT COMPENSATE FOR HEAVY SPARK KNOCK CONDITIONS. IF HEAVY KNOCK IS EXPERIENCED, FURTHER DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING WILL BE REQUIRED. REFER TO TSB 09-05-00 FOR ADDITIONAL ASSISTANCE.

NOTE: WHEN PULLING A HEAVY LOAD OR DRIVING A FULLY LOADED VEHICLE USE A PREMIUM UNLEADED FUEL TO HELP MINIMIZE SPARK KNOCK.

NOTE: WHENEVER A POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE IS REPLACED DUE TO FAILURE, THE SOFTWARE OF THE REPLACEMENT CONTROLLER MUST BE VERIFIED FOR THE LATEST REVISION LEVEL. USE THE FLASH PROCEDURE TO UPDATE REPLACED CONTROLLERS AS NECESSARY.



 



PARTS REQUIRED:



 



EQUIPMENT REQUIRED:

NOTE: THE MDS2 AND DRB III(R) ARE REQUIRED TO PERFORM PART OF THIS REPAIR. WHEN USING THE MDS2 AND THE DRB III(R), THE SYSTEM MUST BE OPERATING AT CIS CD 2064 OR HIGHER (SEE THE TABLE).

REPAIR PROCEDURE:

1. Log onto the MDS2 system.

2. Connect the MDS2 and DRB III(R) to the vehicle and switch the ignition key to "ON".

NOTE: AUTO CONNECTION WILL OCCUR ONCE THE DRB III(R), MDS2, AND VEHICLE ESTABLISH COMMUNICATION. THE "CANNOT READ VIN FROM DRB III(R)" MESSAGE (ON THE MDS2) WILL BE REPLACED BY THE VEHICLE VIN. PRESS THE "OK" BUTTON ON THE MDS2 TO REQUEST A MDS2 SESSION FOR THE VEHICLE VIN INDICATED. PRESS THE "OK" BUTTON WHEN ASKED TO BEGIN SESSION.

3. Select the FLASH tab on the MDS2.

4. Select READ PART NUMBERS FROM VEHICLE and click SHOW UPDATES on the MDS2. Press the "OK" button.

NOTE A MESSAGE WILL APPEAR (AFTER STEP 3 OR 4) THAT INDICATES NO UPDATES ARE AVAILABLE. IF THIS OCCURS, MAKE SURE YOUR DIAGNOSTIC EQUIPMENT IS OPERATING AT THE LATEST SOFTWARE LEVEL AS LISTED EARLIER IN THIS BULLETIN. IF THE LATEST SOFTWARE IS INSTALLED, AND NO UPDATES ARE AVAILABLE, ANOTHER VEHICLE CONDITION EXISTS THAT WILL REQUIRE FURTHER INVESTIGATION.

5. Select the new software part number with the light pen and click UPDATE CONTROLLER SOFTWARE.

6. The MDS2 and DRB III(R) will prompt for any operator action needed during the remainder of the reprogramming process.

NOTE: DUE TO THE PCM REPROGRAMMING PROCEDURE, A DTC MAY BE SET IN OTHER MODULES (TCM, BCM, MIC, SKIM, ECT.) WITHIN THE VEHICLE, IF SO EQUIPPED. SOME DTC'S MAY CAUSE THE MIL TO ILLUMINATE. ALL DTC'S RELATE TO A LOSS OF COMMUNICATIONS WITH THE MODULE THAT IS BEING REPROGRAMMED.CHECK ALL MODULES, RECORD THE FAULTS, AND ERASE THESE FAULTS PRIOR TO RETURNING THE VEHICLE TO THE CUSTOMER. ERASE ANY FAULTS IN THE PCM ONLY AFTER ALL OTHER MODULES HAVE HAD THEIR FAULTS ERASED.

NOTE: THE FOLLOWING STEPS ARE REQUIRED BY LAW.



 



7. Type the necessary information on the "Authorized Software Update Label" P/N 04669020 (figure 1). Attach the label to the JTEC PCM and cover the label with the clear plastic overlay.




 



8. Type the necessary information on the "Authorized Modification Label" p/n 04275086 and attach the label near the VECI label (Figure 2).


POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.



 



TIME ALLOWANCE:

FAILURE CODE: FM - Flash Module

[Blingn]

if ya have any you want to know about let me know ill give it a shot, shamb

[BLACKDOG]

Not dodge specific, but I'm actually looking at getting a towrig/DD (tired of DDing the toy) as well.  I've been looking for a few weeks, and I'm actually finding that for 15K, you can get a decent diesel around '00.    The gassers are even cheaper from what I've seen so far.  Instead of retyping everyhing, here is an info request thread I started elsewhere, pertainining to diesels.  Got some good stuff on it   Hope it helps.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=35524.0

[freds40]

Diesel all the way.

You can easily find a 12 valve truck (94'-early 98') for $12K. The 24 valve trucks (late 98' on) can be had below $15K. The 6 speed came in 00' I believe. Before that it was the NV4500.
On the 24 valves, you need to monitor the fuel pressure.(fuel pump can go out and kill Lift pump $$) Throw a guage on it and you're good. On the 12 Valves, take care of the Killer Dowel Pin and you're set. (pin under timing cover can walk out and get into the timing set $$) On the NV4500, the 5th gear nut can walk off which causes a loss of 5th gear. A fully splined main shaft can fix the problem. The NV5600 is a pretty solid trans as it sits.
Check out the suspension on both, mainly bushings. Also check out the wheel hubs. These use unit bearings and they tend to last fine with tires up to 33" but past that they wear prematurely. Either way when they do need to be replaced, they run anywhere from $250-$350 per side.
On my '97, my brakes are great. The self adjusters don't work great but as long as you check them and adjust every so often, you will have no problems.

[tom w.]

Here is a good place for info on dodges.

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/

[Blingn]

snowshoebrue just got one

[topar]

I have a 98 1/2 ton with a 360.  It runs great and have never really had a problem with the truck, however the brakes leave a lot to be desired of course that could be the 38" tires.

[Duffil]

diesel is the way to go.  With a gas engine you'll get 16 and 8 unloaded/loaded.  a diesel will bring you the same mileage (around 16-18) loaded or not.

[snowshoebrue]

i just sold my 98 24 valve 144k miles for 14k.  i got what i was asking and had alot of people interested in it.  if you don't mind getting a longbed you will have a lot better luck finding one for cheaper.
my old truck had an automatic and it was great for driving to work.  the issue i had with the auto is there is a big gap in between 3rd and overdrive, so you are lugging it in od or screaming in third going up the hills at about 60-65.
my parents have a 02 ho 6 speed and there truck has lots of power.  they have a 4 horse gooseneck with full living quarters and the can go over the tehachapies at 65+.  my dad got the chip so he wouldn't have to take it out of 6th gear going over the hills.
I just bought my 04 for 23K with 43K miles.  i haven't pulled with it yet, but it gets on the freeway alot faster than my other one did.  this one is a stick so we will see how it does.  it is getting 17.4 mpg with the leveling kit & 33's.  i bought it exactly as it sits in the pic for that price

[topar]

  I like it!

[Shamb]

wow thanks for ALL the info!

I have some reading too do.

Duffil I agree w/ you, I think it would be better in the long run to get the diesle for fuel consumption alone!

There's a local used car dealer that's got about 10 Dodges sitting in the lot, i'm going to have a chat with him tomorrow and see what kind of prices he throws my way. 

I'm currently surfin http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/        Thanks for the forum, mucho info!

I will report back my findings and I will also check out your thread BD   

[snowshoebrue]

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/    is another website for dodges

[tom w.]

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/    is another website for dodges

haha That's the other site my dad recommended.

Now, from what i've gathered from my dad, and brothers, is that if you're gonna do a lot of towing then a six speed is the way to go. As somebody mentioned, the 5 speeds can lose 5th if they've been worked hard enough.
Also, I think the newer auto's are pretty darn good. My boss has a megacab auto, and he pretty much always has at least a three horse trailer, and one or two horses with him.

But, that's just what I've heard and remembered, and I definately don't know much.

[topar]

Not sure if this link has been posted but its a good one. http://www.dodgeram.org/

[Shamb]

walked around Dodge yesterday.. WOW EXPENSIVE.. for new of course


Looked in the local paper and found an 01' Dodge 2500 with 37,000 miles with a 5.7 liter     

For $7500, sound like a decent deal? 

I'm gonna call tomorrow.. maybe go take a peak at it

[Shamb]

So I went and looked at a 97' the other day at the Dodge dealer..

long story short they tried selling me a truck that was probably worth around $12k for $17k... on top of it all they wanted to give me $4000 for a trade in on my Tahoe 

[dizzydevil]

Not sure if all your looking for is dodges but if you are interested in something else i would go with a late 90's thru 04 (i think) F-250 (before the 6.0 diesel) my dad has a 99 4 door long bed 4x4 on 35"bf g's, gets around 18 to 20 mpg all day long (loaded or unloaded) he has a 40' 4 horse trailer with living quarters and pulls the grapevine at 65 with no problems. Breaks work great when i borrow it pulling my 80 toy on a flat bed trailer (trailer breaks are not working at this time    ) and it stops on a dime......for a 9k total weight.

[Shamb]

I've thought about a Ford... but havn't heard much "good" about them lately. My buddy has an 03' or 04' F-350 with that big ol' 7.3 turbo diesel and I know there for awhile it was getting really bad gas mileage... I chatted with him a few days ago and he said once it hit 50k on the clock that the mileage got much better 

Might be something to look into, I belive I can get my hands on a Ford for a bit cheaper as well.

One thing I have heard from most everyone is that the Ford's are really sluggish on the take off but once they get going their okay, is this true?

[dizzydevil]

yea my dads has about 160k on the clock and it does great

[Tool Pimp]

I had a 99 250 with a 6 speed and it was the perfect truck (damn I miss it) got around 18 loaded or not and would pull anything at 90+ up hill or not (thanks to Loosekannon for finding that out for me) as far as sluggish all diesels are until the turbo spools up just make sure if you get a Ford do NOT get the 6.0 there junk pick up a 7.3   
Good luck with the search.....

[BLACKDOG]

just got an '02 F250 7.3 with 6spd. 

The thing hauls   even from the get go.  I love it!! 

'03 was a weird year for the 7.3, as well as the last.  I think 97-02 was all the same motor, and probably the best PSD that was ever turned out.  If you get one with a 6speed, you're golden

[mengo660]

i dunno if this has been said or not but i used to be really into the dodge diesels before i realized how badass toyotas are and i found out that the 98 to like 01 or sumthing like that was a good stock truck but because the engine blocks in those years were sent to japan or china to be made they would split in half if you put on too much extra horsepower. just something too think about

[Hyena]

My 99 F-250 7.3L might be up for sale here shortly Shayne.  I am wanting to get $14k for it.  low blue book is $13,200.  but it also has the chip and gooseneck hitch.  it is getting right around 15mpg around town with the chip at setting 2 out of 5.  without the chip it gets around 12mpg in town.

[89toy]

I have a 99 F-250 PSD with a 6 speed and it is the best truck I have had.  Worried originally with a ford (had an explorer a LONG time ago that needed 3 transmissions by 80K miles).  My f-250 is now at 200K and is still running great!  I have had to replace the starter solenoid and the crank shaft postion sensor (common problem...not that big of a deal since ford just lowered the part price from around 200 down to 25 bucks).  The clutch is going out but with 200K on it I feel it has done its job (tow my rig, 32ft. fifth wheel, and every now and then a gooseneck).  Worst mileage I have ever had = 15...~12K was on the back.  Best = 21.  Usually average between 18 and 19 unloaded.  I have a chip, exhaust, and the new severe duty intake made by ford.

If you are interested in a Dodge, my buddy is selling his 96.  12 valve with 700 ft. lbs. of torque (dynoed at West Texas Off Road)...it is automatic but he replaced the tranny with a MUCH stronger one (not sure which one...but the dodge automatics are poop from the factory). 

ok, just my