Author Topic: solid axle rebuild question  (Read 2623 times)

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toymech

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solid axle rebuild question
« on: May 01, 2007, 10:23:14 AM »
A few questions I have since I finally aquired an axle to build-up. Will the backing plates for the front rotors be re-used since Marlins kit uses vented Cruiser rotors and can my IFS calipers be used? What kind of grease is used on the Birfs? It looks like CV grease to me and if so how do you fill it? Right now I have a Downey IFS lift,I think it brought the back up maybe 3 inches. If I do the SAS to the front using 3 inch springs would it be ok with the rear the way it is for now or maybe using lift blocks for the meantime until i save enough coin for the matching rear setup? Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks. Mike :turtle:
87 Runner-rebuilt 22re,3 inch downey ifs lift,allpro rear bumper,Detroit locked rear with 4.88s,detroit true trac front diff,Marlin crawler clutch,R151F trans,Marlin Crawler 4.7 reduction gearset,33 inch Goodyear MTRs

Hilux King

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Re: solid axle rebuild question
« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2007, 11:30:59 AM »
You can use CV Joint grease, but use a hand grease gun to put it is, if you look at the top of the swivel hub you will see a square looking plug, you can use a 1/2" rachet, the type that the centre square section comes out, then get a medium size extension also 1/2" and turn it around, use the square end over the plug square looking head, loosen this plug, anti clockwise, you can just get a flex pipe for the grease pump, remove the end piece off that normally goes over a grease nipple and then suck up the cv joint grease out of the container that you buy it is similar to a syringe, then pump it into the swivel hub until it comes out the top, cv joint grease works better than grade 90 gearoil, espicially if the swivel hub seals are worn and cv joint grease lasts longer, it protects the Birfieds as well.

Concerning your other query I have no idea.

79coyotefrg

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Re: solid axle rebuild question
« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2007, 11:39:48 AM »
no  HK  he is tearing the axle down,  yes  toymech  you can cut the  dust covers  so only  the seal  that keeps the mud and dirt away from the inner wheel bearing is used

i use  hi temp   grease in a tub,  you need to pack the bearings  so  put some  in your hand  and  squeez the bearing down on your hand repeatedly  this will "pack" the grease up into the bearing,     i also pack the birfs  in the same way

when you start to re assemble  put the rest of that (tub  or tube   of grease  whichever  you prefer)  into the knuckle  around the birf


you might need to ad a leaf to your rear springs  but thats all

DONT USE  BLOCKS
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

twistedtoy92

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Re: solid axle rebuild question
« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2007, 11:50:35 AM »
sky off road has a backing eliminator kit for $15 a pair!!! looks clean and easier to clean up brake stuff
2005 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro 380 AWHP @ 24psi
1993 Toyota Pickup http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=72886.msg866982#msg866982
1992 Toyota Pickup http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=49319.msg616251#msg616251
1985 4runner http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=60737.msg745263#msg745263

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synwars

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Re: solid axle rebuild question
« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2007, 03:41:29 PM »
when you start to re assemble  put the rest of that (tub  or tube   of grease  whichever  you prefer)  into the knuckle  around the birf

DONT USE  BLOCKS

Why put so much grease inside the knuckle? It's unnecessary really. I only put a light coat of grease on the inside of the knuckle and ball to prevent corrosion, and pack the bearings/birf really well. Otherwise, if you have to do a trailside repair, all that grease can be messy and polluting (especially if your axle seal gets damaged and oils starts mixing with the grease to make a nice soupy mess). Keep some extra grease with you in your toolbox, and use as necessary.

What's wrong with blocks?
"Don't let common sense stop you..."

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79coyotefrg

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Re: solid axle rebuild question
« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2007, 04:11:46 PM »
blocks  can  get spit out  and  then  if your on the highway when they decide to :willynilly:


i guess if you PLAN  on breaking a axle  then  not packing them is a good idea  but  for those of us  that  drive our trucks  and  need them to last for years,  when  they are packed  with grease  that grease  will get into the birf  as its used  especially  on a snowy  or  muddy road 

my truck see's all conditions,  ive driven to Minnesota  last january   and  kept my hubs locked  for 200 miles  didnt hurt a thing  and my front shaft  is balanced  so even at 55mph  i had  no vibrations at all


but yea  sure for a rock buggy  i wouldnt "pack"  them full either
AR-TTORA founder 22R bored.060,LCE stage II race cam http://pure-gas.org/    32/36weber, :driving: Marlin 1200 NON ceramic clutch, L52SHD+dualcase #2919, cable-locker, Yukon 5.29 gears, 35's, Allpro ebrake, front springs, and high steer, F150rears    RIP Nitro 9-29-07 :(  I sure miss him :down: MarlinCrawlerInc IS NOT affiliated with TrailGear in any way

BLACKDOG

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Re: solid axle rebuild question
« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2007, 05:23:57 PM »
How big of blocks are you wanting to use?  adding a leaf is definitely a better way to go, you can hit up a junkyard for a set of springs (even toss some F150s or Chevys under there instead of buying the rear marlin springs.  It'll save you some coin, and you'll get some killer flex out of it if set up right.) Personally, I don't like blocks, but if you have to run them, the shorter the better.  I'd say 2" blocks are the absolute max.  yes, they sell bigger, and yes people run bigger, but blocks have a few downfalls.

1)they can break, and "spit out"  this usually happens when you least expect it/want them to.(murphy's law)
2) they can cause axle wrap
3) they can jack up your pinion angle, causing premature wearing and/or failure of bearings, seals, ujoints, etc. in your rear driveline. 
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toymech [OP]

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Re: solid axle rebuild question
« Reply #7 on: May 02, 2007, 04:41:11 PM »
I hate blocks too cause you wont gain any flex out of it. Id like the front to match the back when I finally rip the IFS out and put solid axle under it. My truck is 99 percent street so it has to be able to fool the inspection out here so id like it to look as factory as possible. Good idea with the springs,ill probably do that instead of blocks. :turtle:
87 Runner-rebuilt 22re,3 inch downey ifs lift,allpro rear bumper,Detroit locked rear with 4.88s,detroit true trac front diff,Marlin crawler clutch,R151F trans,Marlin Crawler 4.7 reduction gearset,33 inch Goodyear MTRs

twistedtoy92

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Re: solid axle rebuild question
« Reply #8 on: May 02, 2007, 04:47:09 PM »
good idea!!   :turtle3:
2005 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro 380 AWHP @ 24psi
1993 Toyota Pickup http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=72886.msg866982#msg866982
1992 Toyota Pickup http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=49319.msg616251#msg616251
1985 4runner http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=60737.msg745263#msg745263

"TRIPLE CASES GETS YOU LAID." -BigMike

"I daily drive this thang everyday." (swapped89)

 
 
 
 
 

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