Project Kilchis!! Update 9/13/09

[Cheesemaker]

 


Hell, just talking to him his gears in his head is spinning.  I was asking him about the T360 adapter, and then he all went quiet, and you can tell that he was thinking through an idea.  He is a genuine person to be around.  You will find nobody better than him.  With the exceptions of Mike and the rest of the gang.   

[83 Crawler]

iv never heard a bad thing about them

[Cheesemaker]

I finally got around to putting on the new rubber boots that goes over the base of the t-case and tranny shifters.  

The t-case was cake.  


WELL.... the tranny shifter was a pregnant dog.    I had installed the Marlin shifter bushing and the shifter ball seat sometime ago.  I couldn't get the gear shift to pop out.  And it did finally, put the shifter bushing was stuck in the metal block on the shift rail.  And it wouldn't pop back on the shifter, cause there is enough space under it, that it wouldn't just pop back in on re-assembly.  It would not come out at all.  Should be simple, just slide it out.  NOPE, NADA, NO WAY!!  I used picks, allen wrench, bent up flat head screwdriver, and still nothing.  So, today I call the shop and they had no clue what I was talking about, since they never dealt with this.  So, I get home and I tried again.  Then I decided it's coming out, in pieces if I had to, and I would just order a couple from Marlin.  
It was hanging up at the very edge of the hole.  So, I grabbed some towels and stuffed in around the block, and used my dremel with the sanding bit.  I took two light passes around the lip.  And it slid right out after that..    There must have been a microscopic lip on that hole preventing it from coming out.

It's amazing on how the smallest thing could be such a pain in the butt!!  I couldn't even feel a lip there.  But a slight buff took care of the issue.  I put it back on the end of the shifter and put it all together.  


You can just barely make out where I buffed it in this pic.

[gtoyonrocks]

I hate it when stuff like that happens. It seems like that is always my luck on the jobs that seem to be simple. There is always something.

[Early]

What new with the truck cheese? When are you going to come meet up down at browns?

[Cheesemaker]

Not alot has been done.  Just been buying parts when I have the money, and when I go to Fresno.  I just got a twin stick from Marlin a couple weeks ago.  I got a bunch of little stuff that doesn't involve suspension.  Like a little rust repair and prevention, if I ever get around to it.  It seems like everything in my life takes up all my time and $$.  As soon as I tear into my case for the twins, I'll post up. 

I'd love to hook up with ya guys at Brown's camp, but my 6/2 work schedule sucks, but since it pays my mortgage, I just keep plugging along.  And when I get weekends that happen on real weekends, the wife has family stuff planned.  I've got other friends on another local forum that keeps bugging me too about hitting up the trails.  They are the Timbercrawler crew.

[Cheesemaker]

So, I think I resolved my tranny leaking oil issue.  I talked to Dave @ Marlin and I had the wrong oil slinger plate in there.  It didn't start leaking until I put in the new Shifter seat and lever socket kit in.  And then after I did that I realized I put the oil slinger in wrong.  And then I flipped it over, and it has been a constant source of 90wt dripping in my driveway. 

The one on the left was in there.  And the right one, is the right one for the R151F.




I need to degrease the tranny/tcase now, and look for any leaks.


I also was looking at my twin sticks I got, and it looks like I may need to call Dave and double check something.  It looks likes if I use the twin sticks in a single forward shift case, my levers may interfere with the tranny shifter. 

[Early]

my TG twins stick hit 4th on my r151f. i ended up bending both sticks, my 5 speed shifter sits millimeters from my ash tray (2nd gen runner.) the bigger problem was that i had to build a 1/4 inch riser plate for the whole twin stick. the shift keys hit part of the tranny.

this is a G58 forward shift tranny.



on my R151f the keys hit that allen head.  

:edit: interesting find on the oil slinger. mine doesn't leak but i don't think it looks like that. got my 151 second hand though.

[illinoisyotadriver]

cheesemaker your truck is awsome hopfuly mine will turn out that nice

[Cheesemaker]

Thanks!! It's a slow work in progress.  As most of the time, I'm low on funds, and have to get or find things on the cheap.  Luckily, Dave & Mike @ Marlin treats me very well!!     Let's say, I'm like family there.   


Early, my tranny was rebuilt at one time.  There is orange RVT silicone on the center plate.  And I'm assuming that was the oil slinger that came with it.  The one I just put in, Dave @ Marlin gave to me, he said it is OEM.  And that it needs the drain hole.  When I pulled the other one off, 90wt was pooled up on top, like it had no where to go.  I've been messing with it for a while now, and now I really F-ing hate the smell of 90wt. 

[87hillbillyoter]

any updates? you get that flatbed built? i like the rig man

[Cheesemaker]

No flatbed, but one day.  Right now, I'm just collecting parts one at a time, when money allows. 

[<MIKE>]

thanks for the stickers man. Here's 2 turtle pts

[Cheesemaker]

Glad I could help.  The next time I get down to Marlin's, I'm gonna stock up on   

[Cheesemaker]

So, I finally got my butt in gear on getting things done on my truck today.  Or so I thought.....





I feel that I basically wasted my day.  But...








So, I've had this twin stick that I got from Marlin the last time I was down there.  I got some 16ga. steel and started to make a plate to make a base for the shifters. 



Then after cutting and grinding out the holes and attaching the boots.



But then I attached the twin stick.     

Here is Second gear, then fourth gear, and finally reverse.




See the problem??? 



Well, I'm gonna have to either bend the shifters, or just sell off the shifters.  Since these shifters are for a forward shift/V6 setup.  And when I go duals, I'll need a top shift setup.  Luckily, I didn't get as far as pulling the t-case and pulling the interlock and putting the t-case back in.  I really would have been pissed... 




It would have looked good if it worked.  (without bending the shifters)

[Cheesemaker]

And yes that was a old shock boot that I had laying around.  I was on the cheap.  So, sometimes you have to improvise. 

[crawlerdan]

ive had to bend almost every set ive installed cheesy- a torch and 2 mins solves it!

[Cheesemaker]

Since I don't have a torch, will a propane torch work?  I'm lacking on some serious man tools around here.  


Which is the best direction to bend them?  I see that I wouldn't have to go very far, if I were to bend them back towards the seat. 

[crawlerdan]

i bend them backwards usually, put em in a vise and bend SLOWLY
propane wont cut it i dont think

[Fo-runna]

Since I don't have a torch, will a propane torch work?  I'm lacking on some serious man tools around here.  


Which is the best direction to bend them?  I see that I wouldn't have to go very far, if I were to bend them back towards the seat.  

Got a welder? You can always relief cut it so it will bend away from where it gets too close and then weld it back up.

[Cheesemaker]

No welder.    

My dad was a carpenter when I was growing up, so I was always interested in woodworking.  But as I got older, I really wished I took metal shop in High School.  Well, I will rethink that.  Should have taken Vo-Ag instead.  Metal shop was nothing but casting aluminum, and making ninja stars class.  No real welding in there.  Vo-Ag was tractor driving and stick welding.

I've been thinking about saving up for welder and do some learning.  

[Cheesemaker]

Just linking radiator info....

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=82071.new#new

[Cheesemaker]

My heater died.  Nothing, Zero, Zilch!!

After consulting the FSM, I decided to just go down the line of the way the signal and power goes in the HVAC system.  (first wrong I did)

So, I had to find the fuse/relay for it.  Well, the FSM didn't tell me where it was, but the owners manual did.  So, out came the glove box.  Well, had power when the selector switch on the heater was on.  And relay clicked.  So, good sign. 

But now to the bad.  I tore the whole dash apart to get to behind the heater controls to get to the switch to test it, and to see if it was melted or . (second wrong I did)  Well, didn't have to go that far, but I had things I never dealt with, that I took care of while I was there.  Took the selector switch out, what a pain, and tested it.  And tore it apart to make sure the contacts were good.  And they were, but while I was there, I did clean some things up.  And reinstalled it. 

And on to the resistor.  Generally, if the HVAC only has Off or High, it's your resistor.  So, disregard all other steps, and go straight for that.  It's located up behind the blower fan motor.  If you can't find it, lay in your seat with your head on the floor boards, up the firewall.   The FSM said to test two of the four contacts, I had continuity, so good.  Went onto the next step.  But if you look at my pictures, you will see otherwise.  Mine was toast. 

Mine:


New:  (not my new one, but internet image, mine is on order)


Well, the final step was the fan motor.  There was power at the fan.  So, I'm really at a standpoint here.  I've ran back into the house and searched the internet, back out to test things, back into house internet search, and back out side.  (I really need a stronger WIFI, and my own laptop in the shop)  So, I decided to pull the motor.  I got it out, and looked it over, but it seemed fine.  Did internet search on how to test the fan motor, and there isn't anything. 

~~But I did find out how to test a fan motor.  Hook up two wires to the plug.  It doesn't matter which is positive or negative.  One way, will make the motor go clockwise, and the other will go counter clockwise.  So, I made some test leads with alligator clips to hook to the battery. 

My motor did nothing.  Well, I found out why.


Brushes, what brushes???



Got new stuff coming, regretfully, it's not Toyota, but I didn't have that kind of money right now.  So, I'm waiting for my parts to come in, and luckily it isn't freezing out. 





On a side note, I tore out the non working aftermarket wiper delay switch.  Then I had to tear into the steering column to fix the non working wipers!! 

[BigMike]

Fan brushes would have been the last thing on my mind. I haven't come across a dead fan motor yet. But good call on testing the fan with a direct power source: if all else fails go back to the basics, isolate components in the system and start with the most obvious.

Look at the bright side, now you know enough to replace a blower fan motor on the trail

BigMike


Sent via Tapatalk + Jailbroken iPhone4

[Cheesemaker]

Fixing a heater fan on the trail wouldn't rank high on a needed fix.  Maybe cruising the mall.    

But, on Roger Browns site you can get replacement brushes, but the way the motor smelled, I was better getting a new one.


And I got up this morning, and my truck was all frozen over.  OH CRAP!!!!  So, I grabbed a space heater and a extension cord, and tossed it in the cab while I got ready for work.  Got home and installed everything.  Since its not a Toyota part, Carquest part actually, I had to figure out how to wire the fan.  They give you the plug, and you have to insert the wires in the right direction needed.  Of course, I had a 50/50 shot of getting it right.  I failed.  Had to switch the wires around, and heat.     So, happy now!! 

[bleakhorizon]

with a 50/50 chance, your 75% to be wrong lol

[BigMike]

Sent via Tapatalk + Jailbroken iPhone4

[Cheesemaker]

I knew I could count on the two of you!! 

[Cheesemaker]

So, in order to keep the truck driving and be able to use 4wd, I had to replace a CV axle.     That money that could have went towards SAS parts, but since I DD this rig, and no back up rig I had to do it.   

So the bad part out.


Which was a pain without tearing out ball joints.  The secret is undoing the sway bar links.  It helps you get it out of there, but its still a tight fit.  And I still had to knock out two of the front diff flange studs. 

The new one went in easier than the worn out one.


And while I was tearing into hub assembly, I kept finding little bits of metal, but I could not find where it was coming from.  Oh, well, no biggie, nothing seems to be an issue and will be fine.  Until I cleaned up the outer hub gear.  See the issue?  (Toby don't give it away!) 



Well, since I couldn't use that part, I could, but the hub would have to be engaged all the time, I got these from Bleakhorizon.  He couldn't find the box of hub parts, but these oem flanges will work till then. 


And while I had things tore apart, I found out the sound of this little rattle I had.  Lower shock bushing was gone!!  Luckily, there are lifetime warranty.



I got bearings and seals for both sides, but since it took longer than expected, I didn't get to the other side.  That will be later.  I still have to see if I got the bearings adjusted right on this side first too.  Sorry, I didn't get Koyo bearings, I had to get what I got, for budget reasons.  But I do have a rebuild kit for a straight axle with Koyo bearings sitting there waiting for me to finish getting all the parts needed to get the axle put together.  One day!!

[Zs Confederate Toy]

What did your new blower resistor cost ya and where did you get it? I have three trucks that need em. I can get them locally at the parts house but they are like $50 a piece