Topic: Tires, Longfields, dual cases, or gears/lockers???

[Volcom]

I'm headed to Moab at the end of March.  I'm in the process of building my 4Runner.  I only have money for 2 of the 4 choices

I won't have enough money for new tires (36" Iroks), Longfields, dual cases (with 4.7 gears), and gears/lockers.  Gears/lockers are a given so that leaves me one more choice.  I will be running a set of 33" TSL's (if I don't buy tires) so keep that in mind.  What should I pick???  I was thinking Longfields but I'm thinking if I could go slow through everything with dual cases that the 33's should hold up.   Any ideas??

I was planning on rebuilding my front axle and was hoping not to have to do it twice just to put longfields in it but I may have to.  I don't want to pay twice for driveshaft work and my stock shaft will not work (stretching the wheelbase 3 inches in the rear).

 

[79coyotefrg]

dual cases  and gears/lockers,  everything else  is easy upgrades later on,  if its your daily truck  get a elocker in the rear  and a aussie  for the front

[Volcom [OP]]

dual cases  and gears/lockers,  everything else  is easy upgrades later on,  if its your daily truck  get a elocker in the rear  and a aussie  for the front

I was kinda of thinking of aussies front and rear.  It's not my DD, just a weekend toy that will see some road trips to the mountains.

[Gittinit]

Do you already have the 4.7 gears? If so buy the longs first and cheap out on the front shaft becouse you will have to replace it for duals anyhow. The rear shaft could be a $$$$ good one becouse for duals you will just have to shorten and rebalance it.

[Volcom [OP]]

Do you already have the 4.7 gears? If so buy the longs first and cheap out on the front shaft becouse you will have to replace it for duals anyhow. The rear shaft could be a $$$$ good one becouse for duals you will just have to shorten and rebalance it.

I don't have the 4.7's and would buy them with the dual case adapter.  I don't really want to mess with the driveshafts twice.

[alwayzbroken]

The dual ultimate is the best mod possible for a toyota truck.

[Volcom [OP]]

The dual ultimate is the best mod possible for a toyota truck.

Even on stock birfields and 33's on a high traction surface like Moab?  Just making sure I'm headed in the right direction

[Broke_Okie_Ty]

i would do gears/lockers f/r (Aussie/welded) and will save you some $ weldin it. then do duel cases not 2 4.7s off the bat though, start with the ultimate crawler and then later if you feel the need to add a second 4.7 later your half way there. this set up should save you a bit and you might also be able to tires. hope this helps.

[All_Set]

How about Gears and rear locker only, and dual cases? 

Do the front locker when you put in the longs. 

Or the goto answer.  Just wheel it and save until you can get everything! 

[RTA]

Dual cases now. 4.7's later and you only and you only do the driveshafts once.  Weld the rear since it's not a DD.  A selectable front locker would be nice for turning.  Carry extra birf's and inners until you can get Longfield's.

[alwayzbroken]

i would do gears/lockers f/r (Aussie/welded) and will save you some $ weldin it. then do duel cases not 2 4.7s off the bat though, start with the ultimate crawler and then later if you feel the need to add a second 4.7 later your half way there. this set up should save you a bit and you might also be able to tires. hope this helps.

The dual ultimate is a dual setup with 4.7s in the rear case. Do what you want but this makes the difference on the trail. You don't have to beat your rig if you have gears. Lock it up then gear it. Bring a spare birf with you and tools. Gittinit runs stock birfs and does any excellent job. Don't drive like a clown and you will be ok.

[Volcom [OP]]

The dual ultimate is a dual setup with 4.7s in the rear case. Do what you want but this makes the difference on the trail. You don't have to beat your rig if you have gears. Lock it up then gear it. Bring a spare birf with you and tools. Gittinit runs stock birfs and does any excellent job. Don't drive like a clown and you will be ok.

Sounds good, I'm going to order up an adapter and 4.7 gears and get them installed.  If money runs tight, I might just stay 4.10's, weld up the rear and buy an aussie for the front.  The dual ultimate is enough gearing off-road with 4.10's and 33's.

Thanks guys for the input!!

[blackdiamond]

I have run Moab several times with 33 inch tires (Extended Cab Truck so long wheelbase) and was only limited by ground clearance in a couple of places, but I managed to run every trail that I wanted, including Pritchett Canyon and Behind the Rocks backwards, without problems.

If you are trying to have a great time without breaking the budget (or your truck), do the following:

(1) 5.29 Yukon gears & Aussie rear locker.
(2) 4.70 Transfer Case gears. - Duals is a lot more work/expense and you can go anywhere in Moab with 4.70 gears.  If you can afford duals they are obviously better.

DO NOT RUN A FRONT LOCKER UNTIL YOU UPGRADE TO LONGFIELDS!  Installing an Aussie is fairly easy in the future.

I was successful with 33's and a Truetrac Limited-Slip, but I can tell you that without the Longfields I would have been fixing things when I upgraded to an Aussie in the front.  Gotrocks broke a pair of Profields and one stock birfield in two days.  Moab is like driving on an paved parking lot, lots of traction and stress on the drivetrain.  A lower center of gravity is an advantage as well.

Gotrocks is currently building me a 4Runner and I opted for 35's simple because I am not planning to bob it like my truck, not because of ground clearance.    

[blackdiamond]

Sounds good, I'm going to order up an adapter and 4.7 gears and get them installed.  If money runs tight, I might just stay 4.10's, weld up the rear and buy an aussie for the front.  The dual ultimate is enough gearing off-road with 4.10's and 33's.

Thanks guys for the input!!

Put the Aussie in the rear and leave the front OPEN!  You could be fixing birfields daily.

[alwayzbroken]

With 33s you will have more than enough gearing with the dual ultimate! I run 38s with 4.10s and my dual ultimate and can crawl about anything. I can't move in high range but that is fine. I say weld the rear, and wait on axle gears personally. Do both the duals and gears at once so you don't have to do the cases twice. Just do it all at once and get that out of the way. Lockers of some kind and Cases.

[Gewehr43]

Dual Cases

[RRMike]

You said you could do 2 so if you could afford the dual ultimate and longs then do that and weld the rear.  If you can scrape up another couple hundred for a front locker it's a bonus that you could live without.

Not bothering to regear will save you the money for the gears plus set up if you can't do it yourself.  I see no need with a dual ultimate especially with 33's.  Hopefully you can scrape up another $200 and get a front aussie or LR so you only have to have it apart once to do the locker and longs.

If you do get a locker to go with your longs don't forget that you have to get the hub gears too.  IF you break a stock hub gear it will take the splines off the stub and Bobby won't warranty that. 

[S-M-R-T]

1.  Weld the rear since it is not a DD.  That is pretty much free.  Upgrade to E-locker or whatever in the future.
2.  Dual cases or just the 4.7s if you need to save a few buck in the meantime.  With 33s diff gears aren't much of an issue yet if you have duals.
3.  Save the rest of your cash until you run it a bit and find out where your weak points are.

I would hold off on the Longs for the time being and do those when you have to tear the front axle apart for gears/locker in the future anyway.  That isn't a job you want to do repeatedly if you can avoid it.  That would be the time to take a good look at the bearings and stuff and consider a knuckle kit if you need it.

I would suggest running the 33s for a while before going larger.  They will limit you on some stuff but it will also force you to learn how to drive and really get to know your truck.  I have seen a few guys who start out huge from the get go and you can really tell by the way they drive.

[kiyul4130]

in this order id go gears/lockers, then longfields so you dont break axles. then duals. then tires.

[blackdiamond]

in this order id go gears/lockers, then longfields so you dont break axles. then duals. then tires.

If you have a stock transfer case, 5.29 gears are not enough to allow control on the trail (I'm talking Moab type trails) unless you are running an automatic transmission.  I ran Moab with stock gearing and 32 inch tires and benefited more from the single 4.70 tc gears than I did diff gears and lockers.  If you are running other types of trails such as "fireroad" type of stuff the added traction might be a better way to go as speed isn't as much of an issue.

 

[Rockcrawlintoy]

weld the rear, do dual cases with 4.7s and buy some decent used tires.

Drew

[91 super yoda]

dual ultimate cases and square front d-shaft, very cheap and strong.

[RRMike]

Not to beat a dead horse but I will.  Forget about gears for now.  It's pointless with 33's if you're putting a dual ultimate in.  I would put the dual in and weld the rear.  The thing will be 10 times more capable than before.  Do the longs when you do the front locker if you can't afford to get it now.  If you can though you'd be set

Why anyone's telling you to put gears in a trail rig with 33's is beyond me.  I guess it's fashionable to have 5.29's

The 4.10's are stronger anyway

[Volcom [OP]]

1.  Weld the rear since it is not a DD.  That is pretty much free.  Upgrade to E-locker or whatever in the future.
2.  Dual cases or just the 4.7s if you need to save a few buck in the meantime.  With 33s diff gears aren't much of an issue yet if you have duals.
3.  Save the rest of your cash until you run it a bit and find out where your weak points are.

I would hold off on the Longs for the time being and do those when you have to tear the front axle apart for gears/locker in the future anyway.  That isn't a job you want to do repeatedly if you can avoid it.  That would be the time to take a good look at the bearings and stuff and consider a knuckle kit if you need it.

I would suggest running the 33s for a while before going larger.  They will limit you on some stuff but it will also force you to learn how to drive and really get to know your truck.  I have seen a few guys who start out huge from the get go and you can really tell by the way they drive.

I've been wheeling stock all my life so I'm going to run these 33's until I can afford 36's.  I'm tired of the little tire wheeling

[Volcom [OP]]

dual ultimate cases and square front d-shaft, very cheap and strong.

square front shaft is on the list for sure!

[Volcom [OP]]

Not to beat a dead horse but I will.  Forget about gears for now.  It's pointless with 33's if you're putting a dual ultimate in.  I would put the dual in and weld the rear.  The thing will be 10 times more capable than before.  Do the longs when you do the front locker if you can't afford to get it now.  If you can though you'd be set

Why anyone's telling you to put gears in a trail rig with 33's is beyond me.  I guess it's fashionable to have 5.29's

The 4.10's are stronger anyway

I might leave the front open since I want to limit the birfield brakeage to none on the trip.  I will leave it at 4.10's for now but plan on changing to 5.29's since this will get driven to the trails here in CO.  I like the 4.10's but no trailer,33's, and high alitude makes life tough.

[blackdiamond]

I might leave the front open since I want to limit the birfield brakeage to none on the trip.  I will leave it at 4.10's for now but plan on changing to 5.29's since this will get driven to the trails here in CO.  I like the 4.10's but no trailer,33's, and high alitude makes life tough.

I grew up in Colorado and wheeling at elevation is a whole new game.  Nothing quite like powering out climbing something due to a lack of oxygen.

I powered out with my 32's & 4.10 on a switchback cut on Blackbear pass.  I got without two truck lengths of the top and that was the end of the trip.