Topic: charge and brake light on 83

[Yota85]

Well guys I picked up an 83 pickup it starts right up and runs good  does have a bottom end knock but thats another project. I drove it home and it was good, the next day i drove it and the charge and brake light came on at start up and never turned off and have been on since so i checked the alt and its putting out 12.55 volts. I have heard that toyota had both lights come on when the alt brushes went bad but i didnt think it would put out voltage any more then.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 thanks
  Bryan

[punkrock crawler]

Well it could be a few things first the voltage regulator could be bad. Check for a bad fuse at the panel. You could also have a bad charge lamp relay located under the dash on the pass side.

[eightyfive]

if the fuse is bad your car would not start up...i had the exact same problem that lasted 1-2 weeks. AFter that the alternator took a crap. replaced it and no problems since.

[tufsurf]

yep definitely the ALT

[jimbo74]

its the alt or the regulator..... if the car is running, it should be putting out like 14-15 volts

[tufsurf]

I have 2 runners, about 2 weeks ago the brake/charge lights came on in my 85. I changed the alternator and have not had a problem since. 2 days later the same lights came on in my 87 I changed the alternator and have had no problems since. 

[Gewehr43]

My '82 has a rebuilt alt and does the EXACT same thing.  I suspect some kind of connection.  I just jiggle the E-brake handle and they will sometimes go off indicating a loose/poor connection somewhere.  I ought to check the voltage reg.

[tufsurf]

my lights would "wiggle" sometimes due to my neg. cable loose at the terminal

[Yota85 [OP]]

I kinda thought the voltage out of the alt was low. I did a check on the voltage reg and it came up fine so i guess i will pull the alt and have it checked out. thanks for your help

[yotadork83]

that light relay is a comman problem i cant find the link at work but i have it at home could post it up later. but it's a problem in the first gens and it happens when your alt, or volt reg. goes bad. the old relay that most likely has old grease and dirt build up will stick in the on position once there is charging problems. i have the same thing i two of my first gens. but if your truck is not charging them replace the alt and see what happens.

[punkrock crawler]

By the way that charge lamp relay is 75 bucks from Toyota and I couldnt find a replacement at any parts supplier. I have a blow relay and Im going to just use a standard 12v relay and splice it in.

How did you check the regulator? My alt is putting out 65v whitch is way too high and Ive switched out the regulator and the alt and its still pumping out 65v. I think it may have something to do with the bad relay.

[Yota85 [OP]]

to check the regulator you use an ohmmeter and check for differnt resistances betwene differt prongs in the plug. the numbers are in the haynes manual. i could post them up if u needed.

yotadork83, if u can find that link it would be great.

[fordh8r]

If you're so inclined to do some fabrication    you can install a custom (130 amp) built GM unit like i did.    The toy unit won't do that 

[yotadork83]

http://www.thegatts.us/chargerelay.html these guy have some cool tips and tricks for the budget wheeler.

[Boheefus]

or you can do the GM 1 wire, easy peasy, just some very basic bracket fab

[fordh8r]

or you can do the GM 1 wire, easy peasy, just some very basic bracket fab

That's what I said. only difference is that with the one wire it has a tendency to shut off at low RPM (no output and battery draining at idle). Besides, wiring up the regular alt. isn't tough at all! 

[8D3TOY]

I have told my story in other posts but I will sum it up here.  On my 83 I had a problem passing smog and my charge/brake light were on.  I replaced everything charge related,alt,reg., ect. so when I took it to an Independent Toyota mechanic he told me that it was the computers way of tripping the "check engine".  I was running way rich and had other smog issues as well,so after a carb rebuild and various vacume switches the lights went off.  They also come on and flicker when I pour SeaFoam down the carb.  So if you get frustrated with the electrical look at the carb and emissions stuff.  But start with the obvious first, Good luck.

[Boheefus]

That's what I said. only difference is that with the one wire it has a tendency to shut off at low RPM (no output and battery draining at idle). Besides, wiring up the regular alt. isn't tough at all! 

yaa, the GM alt only produces a charge above 1k RPM, we have one running on the FIL's John Deer too:)