Author Topic: Charge And Brake Light  (Read 12335 times)

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Ruari

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Charge And Brake Light
« on: Jul 16, 2003, 08:51:48 AM »
My charge and brake lights came on Monday morning of last week.  My voltage gauge still showed some charging was going on.  I had the battery tested and it is good.  I had the voltage regulator tested and it also is good.  I had the alternator tested and it showed no output.  Yet my gauge showed otherwise.  I have replaced the alternator with a new one from Auto Zone.  Now it is not charging at all.  What is next?
Any suggestions?
Ruari Legg

'84 X-TRA cab, 5.29 Front F-J80 high pinion e-locker/5.29 rear Tacoma e-locker, R.O.R.E. e-locker skid plates, MC dual t-case #480, MC 4.70 gears #1755, Budbuilt crossmember, MC crossover steering, Howe hydro-assist steering, Alcan springs with Orbit Eyes, FRORF full floater, TRD cam, LC Engineering adjustable cam gear, distributer, solid steel engine mounts, longfields, 35"x13.5 BFG Krawlers.

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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #1 on: Jul 16, 2003, 09:10:39 AM »
I would start with fuses, look for a "charge" fuse under the hood, and a "gauge" fuse under the dash.
27-AT, some other adapter, flipped D300, twin sticks on cables.
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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #2 on: Jul 16, 2003, 10:11:38 AM »
Yes, check the fuses before going any futhure
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Ruari [OP]

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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #3 on: Jul 16, 2003, 10:57:47 AM »
Thank you for the sugeestion.
Fuses have now been checked and are all good.  My next thought is a bad wire somewhere or loose connection.  Any other suggestions?
Ruari Legg

'84 X-TRA cab, 5.29 Front F-J80 high pinion e-locker/5.29 rear Tacoma e-locker, R.O.R.E. e-locker skid plates, MC dual t-case #480, MC 4.70 gears #1755, Budbuilt crossmember, MC crossover steering, Howe hydro-assist steering, Alcan springs with Orbit Eyes, FRORF full floater, TRD cam, LC Engineering adjustable cam gear, distributer, solid steel engine mounts, longfields, 35"x13.5 BFG Krawlers.

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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #4 on: Jul 17, 2003, 03:28:40 AM »
have the new alt tested..I think auto zone sells junk..but thats just my .02     when it come to stuff like startes,alt or electrical items I will only get a napa or dealy item..seems i have the best luck there over any of the others..I have gootn new alts that were no good..dropped during transport and broke the brushes or broke the brushes while it was going back together..what year is your rig?I know some rigs have a charge lamp relay under the driver side of the dash,,or pass side depending on the year..but if its bad find a used one..A new one fom the dealer is over 100bucks..I think close to 150. :yipes:
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Ruari [OP]

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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #5 on: Jul 17, 2003, 10:08:44 AM »
It is an '84.
Ruari Legg

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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #6 on: Jul 17, 2003, 10:56:58 AM »
I think the 84 still had it..1st have you new alt checked..can you drive it down to napa?They or most parts stores can check it at idle and under load for amprage..Or do you have a volt/amp meter to check output to see for sure..I guess If i read your sig I would have known that it was an 84.. :smack:
That relay I think is on the driver side of that rig...I think..The only other time I had that problem with that realy was in an 82 and a 83..like I said..toyota wants over 100$new.. :yipes:
« Last Edit: Jul 17, 2003, 10:59:22 AM by mr4x42u »
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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #7 on: Jul 17, 2003, 11:16:11 AM »
but thats just my .02
Hey man, use the smiley -  :twocents: - that's what its there for

Rore
The great thing about Toyota is that they really spent alot of time making their wiring system very reliable. If you've ever torn into a wiring loom, you'll know what I mean. But the bad thing is that Toyota made their wiring system very reliable. So when something goes bad, like a shorted wire, good luck finding it. Use an audible single meter to see if you've got any wire that is not Brown or White/black-stripped being grounded out. Just hit a main loom artery and start probing around. You'll need a couple of these though  :beer: :beer:

BigMike
« Last Edit: Jul 17, 2003, 11:19:01 AM by BigMike »
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Ruari [OP]

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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #8 on: Jul 17, 2003, 11:20:42 AM »
I probably won't make it to the auto parts store but I do have a volt meter.  What should the output be on that alt?  14-18 volts?
I was going to mention the sig. but I do own 2 Toys... although they are both '84 x-tra cabs.
 :smack:
« Last Edit: Jul 17, 2003, 11:24:23 AM by RORE »
Ruari Legg

'84 X-TRA cab, 5.29 Front F-J80 high pinion e-locker/5.29 rear Tacoma e-locker, R.O.R.E. e-locker skid plates, MC dual t-case #480, MC 4.70 gears #1755, Budbuilt crossmember, MC crossover steering, Howe hydro-assist steering, Alcan springs with Orbit Eyes, FRORF full floater, TRD cam, LC Engineering adjustable cam gear, distributer, solid steel engine mounts, longfields, 35"x13.5 BFG Krawlers.

Ruari [OP]

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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #9 on: Jul 17, 2003, 11:23:09 AM »
I totaly agree with you Big Mike.  I just hope it is not a ground problem or it will be more than 2 beers.
Ruari Legg

'84 X-TRA cab, 5.29 Front F-J80 high pinion e-locker/5.29 rear Tacoma e-locker, R.O.R.E. e-locker skid plates, MC dual t-case #480, MC 4.70 gears #1755, Budbuilt crossmember, MC crossover steering, Howe hydro-assist steering, Alcan springs with Orbit Eyes, FRORF full floater, TRD cam, LC Engineering adjustable cam gear, distributer, solid steel engine mounts, longfields, 35"x13.5 BFG Krawlers.

84runner

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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #10 on: Jul 17, 2003, 12:05:51 PM »
well it seems like u got enough to check for the charge light, now what about your break light is it still on?  If so Check your break fluid first then your E-brake switch.  And Auto Zone alts are junk
RUBICON TESTED BIG BALLS APPROVED

Ruari [OP]

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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #11 on: Jul 17, 2003, 12:17:21 PM »
I know that the brake light always comes on when there is a problem with the Alt, Regulator, or Battery.  As soon as I fix the electrical problem it will go out with the charge light.
It sounds like the consesus is that I should not have gone to Auto Zone for the new Alt.  I normally do not go there, but since the guy at Kragen looked at the corosion on my battery and said it needed to be replaced and that he wouldn't even test it, that was the only other option at the time.  I will get a new Alt and see if that fixes it.  If not then I will attack the wiring loom and the box that may or may not be in the kick panel.
Thanks for all the input.
Ruari
Ruari Legg

'84 X-TRA cab, 5.29 Front F-J80 high pinion e-locker/5.29 rear Tacoma e-locker, R.O.R.E. e-locker skid plates, MC dual t-case #480, MC 4.70 gears #1755, Budbuilt crossmember, MC crossover steering, Howe hydro-assist steering, Alcan springs with Orbit Eyes, FRORF full floater, TRD cam, LC Engineering adjustable cam gear, distributer, solid steel engine mounts, longfields, 35"x13.5 BFG Krawlers.

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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #12 on: Jul 17, 2003, 12:57:44 PM »

Good luck man
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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #13 on: Jul 18, 2003, 03:05:55 AM »
but thats just my .02
Hey man, use the smiley -  :twocents: - that's what its there for

Rore
The great thing about Toyota is that they really spent alot of time making their wiring system very reliable. If you've ever torn into a wiring loom, you'll know what I mean. But the bad thing is that Toyota made their wiring system very reliable. So when something goes bad, like a shorted wire, good luck finding it. Use an audible single meter to see if you've got any wire that is not Brown or White/black-stripped being grounded out. Just hit a main loom artery and start probing around. You'll need a couple of these though  :beer: :beer:

BigMike

Its rare to see such a problem deep inside a toy wire loom..If its not the common thing,,connector at the battery,,crap in the fuse panel under the hood or a commector or plug at the alt,,I'd go with a bad alt or relay.. :twocents: :twocents: :twocents: :twocents: :twocents: :twocents: :twocents: :twocents: :twocents: :twocents: :twocents:
Forgiveness is between them and god..
Its my job to arrange the meeting!

Ruari [OP]

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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #14 on: Jul 18, 2003, 06:29:55 AM »
O.K. the verdict is in.
DON'T BUY ALTERNATORS FROM AUTO ZONE!
I bought an Alt. last night from Napa, a long drive from my house, and got it in..........
I am charging 100% again. :shocking:
 :beer: :beer: :beerchug: :beer: :beer:
Thank you to everyone for their excelent input and  :twocents:.
« Last Edit: Jul 18, 2003, 06:30:46 AM by RORE »
Ruari Legg

'84 X-TRA cab, 5.29 Front F-J80 high pinion e-locker/5.29 rear Tacoma e-locker, R.O.R.E. e-locker skid plates, MC dual t-case #480, MC 4.70 gears #1755, Budbuilt crossmember, MC crossover steering, Howe hydro-assist steering, Alcan springs with Orbit Eyes, FRORF full floater, TRD cam, LC Engineering adjustable cam gear, distributer, solid steel engine mounts, longfields, 35"x13.5 BFG Krawlers.

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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #15 on: Jul 18, 2003, 07:12:43 AM »
I think not only autozone but checker,,shucks,,kragen,,mom and pop what ever..I think they all suck..I just trust them more..when it comes to eletrical items napa or dealer all the way...

  :twocents:
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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #16 on: Jul 21, 2003, 11:39:59 AM »
I think not only autozone but checker,,shucks,,kragen,,mom and pop what ever..I think they all suck..I just trust them more..when it comes to eletrical items napa or dealer all the way...

  :twocents:

I'll second that, "white box" alternators have caused me a few headaches. :hammer:
27-AT, some other adapter, flipped D300, twin sticks on cables.
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Re:Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #17 on: Jul 25, 2003, 07:37:21 PM »
Kragens, pep-boys and auto zone are all crap for electrical parts.  Go with napa if you are going to but at a local parts store.
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Re: Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #18 on: Nov 04, 2004, 12:55:54 PM »
I had a chevy diesel once that ate starters weekly. after going the kragen route for a couple months I started marking them before returning them. they tried to give me the same starter 3 different times. I finally got a cash refund and went to napa and paid $65 more for the starter there. The first one lasted 2 months, longer than any other so far. I took it back to get it replaced and they tried to give me one of the ones I had marked from kragen! They all get their crap from the same places from what I saw!
The best bet is to take your electrical components to an auto electric shop and let them reman yours! I have had alot better luck doing that!

Also so not to be off topic, I was having about this same problem and just went and found that I have a bad fuse! now I need to go get a replacement! and an extra!

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Re: Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #19 on: Feb 23, 2006, 07:38:42 PM »
I have been having charging problems and electrical issues for a few weeks now. It started out as a bad alternator (brake light and charge light on at the same time time). So I replaced my alternator (with a used toyota alternator from toyota dismantlers in SAN JO) then my truck had new symptoms so I changed my

battery terminals
wiring from battery to starter celenoid
wiring from battery to glow amps fuse
checked all my grounds

so today my 3 week old used alternator went out.

thats where I am @ right now. I just read all and I mean all the forums on electrical issues similar to mine and about charging issues and about alternators, I read about everything.
My next move is a reman alternator from toyota for $100 something ( I forgot the total price). according to everything I read that should take care of everything.

I will also be paying to get my belts done cause I need it. Dont want to do it myself, pain in my arse. I think my belts and the new alternator should take care of my problems after I have done what I have done.

Excuse me for bringing back this old ass thread

thanks
 :crazy:
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BCD

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Re: Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #20 on: Feb 23, 2006, 09:40:05 PM »
In my experience the charge and brake light symptoms are relieved quite easily with a toyota reman alternator, none others (who knows what condition the brushes in a used are in) :twocents:

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Re: Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #21 on: Feb 24, 2006, 03:32:08 PM »
BCD I I agree with what you said. I have read about 10 others on this board say the same exact thing.

So today, I was going to go get my reman'd alternator from Toyota I looked up 4 that are somewhat close made a few calls.
I found out about the alternator I want for my 85 EFI 4runner 5speed,  is a 60 amp with an internal regulator, I also found out that they want $193.84 not including tax, wich throws the total aver $200. That is alot of money.
They know I dont have a choice.

I guess I gotta do what I gotta do.
 :dunno:     :crazy:

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Everybody knows there ain't no such thing as Leftover Crack

PLEASE GOD PROTECT ME FROM YOUR FOLLOWERS!!!!!!!

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Re: Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #22 on: Feb 25, 2006, 11:23:22 AM »
In my experience the charge and brake light symptoms are relieved quite easily with a toyota reman alternator, none others (who knows what condition the brushes in a used are in) :twocents:

I taught you right, boy!!  DEALER PARTS ONLY!!!!  When you wanna put in that oil seal?

Ryan

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skunkyoda

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Re: Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #23 on: Feb 25, 2006, 01:40:04 PM »
I went to different toyota dealer today. They want to sell an alternator for my 854runner to me for $260 not including tax.

I cant freekin believe this shite!!
1985 22RE EFI YOTA 4RUNNER, 31's, Open Diff's

Everybody knows there ain't no such thing as Leftover Crack

PLEASE GOD PROTECT ME FROM YOUR FOLLOWERS!!!!!!!

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Re: Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #24 on: Feb 25, 2006, 04:52:08 PM »
$260- is that NEW or REMAN?  You CAN get a Toyota reman alternator, by the way.   Many dealers only sell new, but can order remans.  Either way, $260 isn't that bad considering it'll probably last 200,000 miles and you'll only have to put it in once.  Try that with any part from Autozone...

If you still have the original Toyota alternator for your truck...you can just replace the brushes if that's all thats bad.  The dealer can get you those too.  It'll require a little soldering, but works like new if you do it right.

Ryan
'84 Hilux, locked, dual-cased, winched, EFI converted, 37" tired, half-doored (in the summer...)
'87 Supra, 400 HP.  smooth as glass at 130 'cause my tires are NEW!...
'92 F250 Diesel, tow rig, ATS Turbo, leveling kit, killer stereo

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Re: Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #25 on: Feb 25, 2006, 06:24:01 PM »
I got a remand alternator from Toyota of Redwood City, and I just installed it.

Only cost $193!!

So I'm stoked
 :crazy:
1985 22RE EFI YOTA 4RUNNER, 31's, Open Diff's

Everybody knows there ain't no such thing as Leftover Crack

PLEASE GOD PROTECT ME FROM YOUR FOLLOWERS!!!!!!!

BCD

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Re: Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #26 on: Feb 26, 2006, 07:00:42 PM »

I taught you right, boy!! DEALER PARTS ONLY!!!! When you wanna put in that oil seal?

Ryan


Maybe next weekend...do you have saturday or monday off?

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Re: Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #27 on: Feb 26, 2006, 08:56:41 PM »
I taught you right, boy!! DEALER PARTS ONLY!!!! When you wanna put in that oil seal?

Ryan


Maybe next weekend...do you have saturday or monday off?
Both...it's my 3-day.  I'm planning on bending some tube for the pickup too...

'84 Hilux, locked, dual-cased, winched, EFI converted, 37" tired, half-doored (in the summer...)
'87 Supra, 400 HP.  smooth as glass at 130 'cause my tires are NEW!...
'92 F250 Diesel, tow rig, ATS Turbo, leveling kit, killer stereo

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Re: Charge And Brake Light
« Reply #28 on: Feb 28, 2006, 02:19:16 PM »
FYI on re-manufactured alt., starters and the like, when I lived in Hesperia my next-door neighbor rebuilt them for a living OUT OF HIS GARAGE. Even though they are boxed like it's a big deal operation he did rebuilds for all the "Brand Name" companies and boxed them in their boxes. Only the worn parts are replaced and that's what they consider being rebuilt. Usually bearings and brushes are replaced and that's it. Then they make the case all pretty and new looking and off it goes. If the diodes and internal voltage regulator is OK when it comes in they don't replace them.




I went through a few alternators in my Maxima years ago and finally decided to buy a Nissan re-manufactured alt. Never had anymore trouble. I am in the buy it from the dealer corner even if it is a re manufactured product from that day on.


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