Author Topic: "I Don't Have Any Heat!!!" - Tech! (Read 6865 times)

CTENG in KS · « **on:** Dec 03, 2006, 05:35:34 PM »

THis has been something of a battle cry around here...I suppose because of the changing weather. Well I have had the same issue and decided to get to solving it. Apparently this is quite a common problem. Located on the engine side of the firewall to the drivers side is a hose connector that is a node for three hoses. Within this connector is a ball valve that opens and closes with a cable operated by the vent/recirculate slider with the climate controls on the dash. This valve seems to love to stick closed...you can tell it is stuck because when you move the slider is will only go so far and feels springy. Don't keep pulling on it because you will just bend the valve arm like I did to mine.

In any case, I don't know where you would get a replacement, so I am going to see if I can bring mine back from the dead. I used a pair of pliers to get the arm back in shape and I am letting it sit in some chem-dip carb cleaner. I will report back my findings, untill then, enjoy some pictures!

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #1 on:** Dec 03, 2006, 05:49:29 PM »

you can use a small bungy and hook one end on the little plunger and pull the other end over to the mastercylinder or something to hold it firmly open, you'll be nice and toasty

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #2 on:** Dec 03, 2006, 06:59:33 PM »

Good news: These things are salvageable!

I let it sit in the dip for bout an hour and it was still stuck tight so I ran it under hot water for a couple minutes and then just started forcing it open and closed. Did that bout 10-15 times and the rust/buildup that was keeping it stuck finally gave. It is opening and closing pretty smoothly now. I will prob get it nice and cleaned up and use some white lithium grease or or the like to keep it from getting stuck again.

All_Set · « **Reply #3 on:** Dec 04, 2006, 08:16:19 AM »

You can get that at Napa or the dealership. I believe it was around 20 bucks. Heater control valve.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #4 on:** Dec 04, 2006, 10:11:03 AM »

I SAVED $20!!!!!

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #5 on:** Dec 04, 2006, 05:41:08 PM »

Lets get serious here folks...now we all know that you can't have heat unless your heat's got bling!

RRMike · « **Reply #6 on:** Dec 22, 2006, 04:02:21 PM »

Is that hammered finish? I like.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #7 on:** Dec 22, 2006, 04:20:58 PM »

Not hammered finish...it is copper gasket spray. For some reason it went on all swirly like that. Once it dries I hit it with clear coat to seal it.

DTB · « **Reply #8 on:** Dec 22, 2006, 04:23:49 PM »

Quote from: CTENG in KS on Dec 22, 2006, 04:20:58 PM

Not hammered finish...it is copper gasket spray. For some reason it went on all swirly like that. Once it dries I hit it with clear coat to seal it.

Wermz84 · « **Reply #9 on:** Dec 22, 2006, 08:10:08 PM »

nice work CTENG.

I don't have any heat either. My heater control valve is only a couple of years old so i don't suspect it, maybee I should check it anyway. I'm thinking my heater core might be gummed up. For all I know it's still the original one.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #10 on:** Dec 22, 2006, 08:32:51 PM »

You will be able to tell if the valve is the problem because the adjuster in the cab for opening the valve will not slide smoothly...it will get tough to move.

RRMike · « **Reply #11 on:** Dec 23, 2006, 03:40:02 PM »

Well mine slides all the way smoothly but I don't get any heat. I'm gonna screw with it this weekend hopefully and I'll post up here.

Wermz84 · « **Reply #12 on:** Dec 24, 2006, 12:29:28 AM »

It's a little rough in a couple of spots and now that i think about it, its closer to 4 1/2 years old. Definatly time to check.

NeverEnough188 · « **Reply #13 on:** Dec 24, 2006, 08:23:33 AM »

my adjuster inside the cab doesnt go all the way to the end of the adjustment hot side. the valve moves on the fire wall but not all the way. i assume its opening some but i still have no heat. flushing the coolant system didnt help so i am going to run some of the prestone radiator cleaning fluid (2 bottles) in the system and go on a road trip for a few hours to really work it in. we'll see....

is removing the dash necessary to replace the heater core in these trucks? i have an 81

Marlin · « **Reply #14 on:** Dec 24, 2006, 10:25:57 AM »

I dont recall removing the dash to access the heater box.
Just the glove box and brackets.

It sounds like the heater cable housing has moved where it should be secured with a pinch clip on the dash control.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #15 on:** Dec 24, 2006, 07:25:33 PM »

HOLY CARP...MARLIN'S IN MY THREAD!!!!! YAHOOOOOO!

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #16 on:** Dec 24, 2006, 07:40:55 PM »

calm down you blow a thread gasket

kneedownnate · « **Reply #17 on:** Dec 24, 2006, 08:12:21 PM »

I've had similar problems with my cables moving on the outside rather than inside the sheething. It's really common on first gens, or atleast it's happened to every one I've had. I've actually had to ban passengers from touching any heater controls, but inevitably somebody plays with one and I get stuck trying to fix it. It's how I ended up with cold air blowing in under the dash in the middle of winter

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #18 on:** Dec 24, 2006, 08:37:13 PM »

mine havent worked in years but i can reach under the dash in pitch dark and grab the levers they operate and put it back where it should be in no time

Wermz84 · « **Reply #19 on:** Dec 25, 2006, 10:11:26 AM »

Quote from: 79Coyotefrg on Dec 24, 2006, 07:40:55 PM

calm down you blow a thread gasket

I hate it when i blow a thread gasket!

NeverEnough188 · « **Reply #20 on:** Dec 26, 2006, 06:00:43 AM »

well i temporarily fixed the problem. th pivot point for the arm that moves the valve was rusted stuck. so i pulled out the valve assembly and soldered a couple 90* 1/2" copper fittings together to make a bypass. the fittings can be purchased at any hardware store. the only other things you need are a torch, some 50/50 solder and some flux.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #21 on:** Dec 26, 2006, 07:22:18 AM »

Some elbow grease and white lithium grease will free up that pivot.

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CTENG in KS [OP]

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CTENG in KS [OP]

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CTENG in KS [OP]

CTENG in KS [OP]

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