Topic: Battery relocation

[94SRUNNER]

I need some advice. I want to relocate my battery to the opposite side of the engine bay. Is there anyone out there in Marlin land who has done this?
Here is are pictures of what I am talking about.

[TrikeKid]

My battery is on the passenger side of the engine bay (85 22R), and the only good place to put it is right where your intake and air filter are now.

[94SRUNNER [OP]]

Those pictures are of someone elses truck, not mine. Those pictures show what I intend to do. I test fit the battery on the drivers side of the engine bay and it will work. I just would like to know who has done something like this to there truck.

[Vic stuff]

I run dual optimas in my runner but it has a 22R and my stock battery locale is where the filter is in your pic and my other one is where your stock one is probaly. what about back by your firewall on the passenger side?

EDIT: Doh! nevermind looks like you have some shizzle back there that might be tough to move

[alwayzbroken]

Optimas are easy to mount because they have the grooves on the sides for the handle and so they can be mounted on the display rack in the store. If you have an optima you can weld some steel straight up so the battery slides right down.

[abnormaltoy]

I did it on my old (RIP) Runner. I didn't have the nice looking elbow, I used a black rubber one. I cut and spliced the AFM harness, soldered and shrink wrapped each wire.
Mark

[94SRUNNER [OP]]

Did cutting and splicing the AFM harness work OK. And do you have any pictures?

[alpha_radiation]

I have been thinking about doing this to my 85 22re.  I was afraid that the addition of additional wire will increase the resistance and change the way the motor ran.

I thought about running duals, and putting each battery behind the cab under the bed.  It looks like they would fit right in front of the rear tires, tucked up around the frame.

[blackdiamond]

I have been thinking about doing this to my 85 22re.  I was afraid that the addition of additional wire will increase the resistance and change the way the motor ran.

 

More Explain Please...

[abnormaltoy]

Did cutting and splicing the AFM harness work OK. And do you have any pictures?

I'll look, but I lost a bunch of stuff...my computer took a dump a couple of weeks ago. No, I didn't have any problems, I only added a couple of feet.
Mark

[abnormaltoy]

I have been thinking about doing this to my 85 22re.  I was afraid that the addition of additional wire will increase the resistance and change the way the motor ran.

I thought about running duals, and putting each battery behind the cab under the bed.  It looks like they would fit right in front of the rear tires, tucked up around the frame.

At the same time that I moved my AFM I relo'd my battery to behind the passenger's seat. I used  something like 2/0 welding cable to make the new run. I never got the chance to add the 2nd battery...the poor thing was totaled by some !@@)()*)$@## woman on a cell phone. I was stopped, she was doing 60! That was the only time in my life I've ever been knocked out!
Mark

[BigMike]

I have been thinking about doing this to my 85 22re.  I was afraid that the addition of additional wire will increase the resistance and change the way the motor ran.

Nope, I would not be worried about it. The additional resistance caused by the longer signal wires (as the other wires do not matter) will not be enough to throw the sensor out of its operational range as specified by the ECU. There is a degree of error, more or less resistance, which is within a predetermined range. If the sensor is operating within this range, then it just takes the readings as is (comparatively) and the circuit operates normally.

I do not think it would cause the AFM to operate out of the requested range (and thereby cause a check code) and it should run just like stock.

In my experience, I have lengthened my TPS sensor on my MR2 by about 3 1/2 feet and it worked just fine. Also, on Bevin's 3RZ, I had to lengthen his rear Exhaust sensor (not an actual o2 sensor I think, it is unshielded) by a good 6 feet!! and it reads just fine and within range on the OBD-II scanner, no check codes.

I believe the sensors that you want to be more careful with are with pizo-type (AC Generative) sensors, such as a knock sensor.

Putting the Air filter on the passengers side with a 22R-E is an excellent idea and they should have done that from the factory. The thing I would hate the most is the heat absorption from taking the air intake charge up and over the radiator. Not a cool setup

BigMike

[94SRUNNER [OP]]

BigMike

Any ideas on constructing a battery platform on the drivers side where the air filter typically goes? It has to be a solid platform in order to pass a technical inspection.

[Ramrod]

be creative, weld up a nice little rectangle of angle iron for the base to start out and go from there.  Weld if right to the body

[BigMike]

We relocated the battery on Bevin's 2nd gen when we did the 3RZ swap but I don't think it has been mounted yet. I believe it is just sitting there, but if feels pretty solid. Maybe he did put a bracket on there... I don't remember

Here is an older picture:

[IronClad]

werks just fine.. my battery is behind my cab. i just made longer leads    my intake it also on the passenger side now as well.. i just lengthend my AFM wires.. no problemo.

[alpha_radiation]

Thanks Mike.  As long as the resistance value stays in the deadband of the sensor it will be good.

If anyone cuts their harness to do work, make sure that you solder and use heat shrink tube.  Try and stay away from solderless connectors and tape.

[genericposter]

If anyone cuts their harness to do work, make sure that you solder and use heat shrink tube.  Try and stay away from solderless connectors and tape.

I always use the heat shrink and than wrap it in tape to cover the ends. Just to be sure nothing will get in.

[Uncle Jesse]

I prefer adhesive lined wall heat shrink tubing.  It has an adhesive inside that melts and seals the ends when you shrink it.  That means no tape to unravel later on.  You can usually get it in a 3:1 shrink ratio that is good for most wiring repairs.

Also, although I haven't done mine yet, on a 89 and newer 22re, you could just unwrap the AFM/ ignition coil harness and take the AFM harness out.  The takeout for them is at the same spot, right there at the intake manifold.  So if you removed the AFM harness and re-wrapped it by itself, then it would run out of the stock harness and down to the AFM on the passenger side.  No extending the wires.  In fact, you might have some extra harness as it doesn't have to run all the way around the engine compartment.

[Uncle Jesse]

I need some advice. I want to relocate my battery to the opposite side of the engine bay. Is there anyone out there in Marlin land who has done this?
Here is are pictures of what I am talking about.

Also, I just noticed the third picture.  Note the bright yellow hose.  It appears to go from the intake tube to the PAIR resevoir.  That is bad.  On the stock setup PAIR intake is on the unmetered side (air filter side)of the AFM.  Not on the metered (throttle body)side.  This setup would mean the engine is seeing the airflow being used for air injection, and thinking it is going into the engine.  Resulting in a rich condition.

[Hooch]

This is the best way I've seen to put them both under the hood. This guy did it on the pass side but you can do the same on the drivers side no prob.

http://www.rocketcityrockcrawlers.com/memberstuff/al/Toyota%20Dual%20Battery%20Install%20Part%20I.pdf

[Hooch]

Here is some info on wiring.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=427895

[Hooch]

Forgot 2 say props on that clean ass engine