Author Topic: Dana 60 what tire size? (Read 21538 times)

Shamb · « **on:** Mar 28, 2006, 07:57:29 PM »

Gonna be going Dana 60's soon.. Im curious as to what size tire I can run without worrying to much about breakage.. I know with a stock Toyota axle they say anything over 35" tire is "pushing it" but i've been running 37's with minimal problems. So the question is if you were going Dana 60's what would you feel comfortable running on 'em? For those of you who already have Dana 60's (lucky b'stds

) What are you running right now?

I'm thinking... 42's TSLs and trailready beadlocks, would that be to much weight for the 60?

RHG · « **Reply #1 on:** Mar 28, 2006, 08:05:50 PM »

You talking stock shafts? Id say that 42" with TR beadlocks would be "pushing" it. Might get away with some CTM joints in the front. Eventually have to upgrade to some 300M shafts. In the rear you should be alright.

IronClad · « **Reply #2 on:** Mar 28, 2006, 08:08:25 PM »

if you upgrade to 35spline stubbs.. 44's no problem rear axle the 30spline is garbage.. yota rear is stronger... upgrade to 35spline ( 70 shafts or yukons) and again you would be good for 44s

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #3 on:** Mar 28, 2006, 08:22:57 PM »

personally i would look for a 14bolt for the rear

and 44's

and maybe some 5:8? gears

hey in the 4Wheel off road mag last year didnt the toyota "clampy" run 60's with like 7:13 gears

Shamb · « **Reply #4 on:** Mar 28, 2006, 08:26:17 PM »

Yea I can get a 14 bolt for FREE.. so I may go that route in the back.

Yes i'm talking stock axles.. between buying new axles, gears, lockers, steering, links and tires/wheels.. im not gonna have any cash left to upgrade the front axle (yet) so Im curious what I can get away with stock for now.

I'll probably be running 5.38's f/r

IronClad · « **Reply #5 on:** Mar 28, 2006, 08:28:36 PM »

Id deff upgrade to the 35spline stubs they are hella cheap ( like 150 bucks for the pair) the rear 60 all depends on yer driving style... the 14bolt will hold to 44s in stock trim.. though.. ive seen 42s ran on stock 10bolts and toyota front ends.. so it just all depends..

Hyena · « **Reply #6 on:** Mar 28, 2006, 08:28:44 PM »

Toy on 40's ran 40's and his stock front Dana 60 for a few runs (6.17's). Broke the stub shaft in Little sluice. thats was with his 22re/4 speed/ dual stock cases. He then went to 35 spline outers and hasn't broken since. He will be running 42's with his next build but with a 350/400/atlas. His stock rear 60 held up good. But he will be upgrading that with his new build. so i think if you don't have much power then you could probly hang with 42's on stock 60's.

Shamb · « **Reply #7 on:** Mar 28, 2006, 08:43:12 PM »

I dont beat on it hard, but I do plan on running LS... I'm gonna stay stock.. grab some spares and see how it does.. If I have a major problem with breakage then i'll plan on 35 stub's in the future.

freds40 · « **Reply #8 on:** Mar 28, 2006, 08:51:09 PM »

On a bone stock front 60 (4.10s, 35 spline inners, 30 spline outers) I'd say 38s are going to be about the max and you can definately still break at that point. For a rear 60 (30 splines, 4.10s) I would say 37s. 14 bolt you can definately run 44s in stock trim. On gearing, the 60s can run up to 7.17s and for the 14 bolt, 5.13s are readily available but they are just coming out with 5.38s for them. If you are still running an "R" motor, I'd be looking more at the 60s if you drive on the street much. Only downside is the $350 for 35 spline rear shafts and the cost to bore the spindles too. If you know where to find them, you can get front 35 spline outers for $55 a piece and replacement Spicer joints for about $40.

snohman · « **Reply #9 on:** Mar 28, 2006, 09:52:09 PM »

The "weak" links on any front Dana 60 are stock 30 spline stub shafts,stock u-joints and locking hubs.The rest of the 60 front end is nearly indestructable on a 4cyl Toyota truck.
you can replace the outer stub shafts and u-joints with some Spicer 35 spline stubs and upgraded u-joints
for around $200.00....highly recomended.you can run any tire size you want after that without much worry.
do it and never look back...

I went all out with 35 spline chrome moly inners & outers,300m u-joints and Warn drive flanges..
i'm running 42's without any worries and some bad ass "welder built" steel fabricated knuckles...

rocblaz · « **Reply #10 on:** Mar 28, 2006, 10:58:48 PM »

on a stock 60 i ran 38 tsl sxs with 513 gearing arb front on a full size with duel cases and 4.7 gear kept braking 30 spline axles up graded to 35 s splines work fine. changed tires to iroks 42 inchers started braking 35 spline. changed to chrome molys 35 s have'nt broke yet . you will need to go with a rock ram . 4 the steering cross over just was'nt helping.

wa4x4 · « **Reply #11 on:** Mar 28, 2006, 11:16:56 PM »

Quote from: snohman on Mar 28, 2006, 09:52:09 PM

The "weak" links on any front Dana 60 are stock 30 spline stub shafts,stock u-joints and locking hubs.The rest of the 60 front end is nearly indestructable on a 4cyl Toyota truck.
you can replace the outer stub shafts and u-joints with some Spicer 35 spline stubs and upgraded u-joints
for around $200.00....highly recomended.you can run any tire size you want after that without much worry.
do it and never look back...
I went all out with 35 spline chrome moly inners & outers,300m u-joints and Warn drive flanges..
i'm running 42's without any worries and some bad ass "welder built" steel fabricated knuckles...

Bling...I guess pimpin aint easy! That looks very nice, and I bet it performs like a champ!

Shamb · « **Reply #12 on:** Mar 29, 2006, 09:41:14 PM »

Thanks for the input Snohman, I'll probably be PM'ing you for some close up's of your setup for mounting ideas.. I'll be running 16" Fox shocks in the front with a 3 or 4 link.. havn't decided yet but I'd like to see how you setup the steering ect.

I can get a Toyota steering box thats complete w/ ram and hoses already hooked up for $275 shipped to my door step. Think I should jump on it?

Hyena · « **Reply #13 on:** Mar 29, 2006, 09:53:04 PM »

I would go full hydro with one tons and linked. It would be a little harder to setup a linked front with a drag link because of bumper steer and that stuff. You can build full hydro for not that much money too.

freds40 · « **Reply #14 on:** Mar 30, 2006, 08:51:27 PM »

Not really at all to do a link seetup with a drag link. Do a 3 link with a pan hard bar. As long as the panhard is close to the length of the drag link and they share the same plane, there will be no more bump steer than with a leaf setup. Besides, full hydro is illegal on the streets and assist still utalizes a mechanical linkage to tie the whjeels and box together.

BTW, $275 for a setup completely ready to go isn't terrible, I'd shoot for $200 and see if you can get it.bad. Just make sure it is an 8" stroke ram for a 60 and not a 6" stroke ram for a Toy.

Shamb · « **Reply #15 on:** Mar 30, 2006, 10:10:04 PM »

It is 8" stroke and this truck will never see pavement. Its registered as a offroad use only vehicle "Green tag"

snohman · « **Reply #16 on:** Mar 31, 2006, 06:24:31 PM »

Quote from: Shamb on Mar 29, 2006, 09:41:14 PM

Thanks for the input Snohman, I'll probably be PM'ing you for some close up's of your setup for mounting ideas.. I'll be running 16" Fox shocks in the front with a 3 or 4 link.. havn't decided yet but I'd like to see how you setup the steering ect.

I can get a Toyota steering box thats complete w/ ram and hoses already hooked up for $275 shipped to my door step. Think I should jump on it?

$275,thats not a bad deal...I'd go with an ARB upfront to ease in your steering as well..
or go full hydro and spend a few dollars more(3-4 hundred at least)and have some real fun...
I went full hydro..steers like a champ with any size tires

Shamb · « **Reply #17 on:** Mar 31, 2006, 08:23:27 PM »

Im a complete newb when it comes to hydro steering.. bare with me pls..

So it looks like you've just bolted the 2-way hydro to your knuckles.. What else? You just drill and tap the steering box and run high pressure lines into it?

freds40 · « **Reply #18 on:** Mar 31, 2006, 08:26:19 PM »

Full hydro usually uses an orbital valve off your steering wheel to send pressurized fluid to either side of the ram. I've seen stock Toy pumps used but most will use an aftermarket higher flow pump.

Shamb · « **Reply #19 on:** Mar 31, 2006, 08:37:58 PM »

So i'll need, orbital valve, ram 8" stroke, high pressure hydro lines (x2) and a higher flow pump.. such as?

like a chevy pump or something custom made?

gotrocks · « **Reply #20 on:** Apr 02, 2006, 11:43:39 PM »

wow dude you are planning quite the build. I'm glad to see your doing your h/w. When you do you plan on starting this build? I'm doing something very similar and am running 60/14b combo out of a military chevy p/u. I haven't decided on the steering issue yet but I've got a bling AGR RockRam setup with a saginaw box/ram/pump and lines all as a kit. Now its not cheap but I've had it for a few years and I think it'll do the trick.

In regards to you axle I would go with what everyone else is saying 35 spline outers is a must and stroger ujoints if possible. Don't know what you buget is but if you can find a military setup lik ei did you'll get 4.56 gears a detroit rear locker and (not everyone has this in it) a gov lock front end. I'm going to be running my ARB up front and would recommend it unless you'll have some super heavy duty steering for the rocks. I picked my axles up for 1100 bucks for both. Thats hard to beat but they are out there.

Shamb · « **Reply #21 on:** Apr 03, 2006, 11:28:08 AM »

That's my battle right now, finding axles! I can't believe how rare it is to find a Dana 60 for $1000 thats just bone stock. I'm debating on a hydro assist or full hydro. I gotta see what will fit into my budget after I get my hands on the axles, gears and lockers. Doubt i'll go ARB in the front.. I know it saves the hassle of steering because you can disengauge it but I've had alot of prob's with ARB in the past. My buddies getting me info on 5.38's for a 14 bolt.. VERY hard to find! But they're out there. I've already started the build if you look in the Projects and Build up thread. Yesterday I stripped it of Toyota axles, springs, shocks, E-brake, brake lines, drive lines, shackles and all the other misc stuff that was going to get in the way. Today i'll be pulling out the F-150 shock towers and begin cutting the rear hangers off.

If anyone's got leads to Dana 60's in Norcal let me know!

Shamb · « **Reply #22 on:** Apr 03, 2006, 12:25:34 PM »

Anyone have some input on Rod ends for my links?

Here's what i'm looking at right now.. and my assumption is the higher priced.. the better they are..

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=154

Should I go with the RSMX High strength heavy duty shank?

What size should I be looking for?

Also what should I go with on the axle side?

This is what i'm looking at right now.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=25

The Uniball's look like they've got the most movement.

Ramrod · « **Reply #23 on:** Apr 03, 2006, 03:20:51 PM »

didn't want to read that whole thing but I'd say go with atleast 42s or else you'll be digging trenches and get the irock not the tsls. I'm gonna be running the 39.5 veriety as soon as I get a dd

Shamb · « **Reply #24 on:** Apr 03, 2006, 04:30:56 PM »

from what i've been reading the Irok's aren't as good on rock as TSL's.

Ramrod · « **Reply #25 on:** Apr 03, 2006, 06:03:03 PM »

where have you been reading? I've read the opposite everywhere

Shamb · « **Reply #26 on:** Apr 03, 2006, 07:07:06 PM »

Check out the new Four Wheeler mag they've got review on tires.

gotrocks · « **Reply #27 on:** Apr 04, 2006, 01:42:20 PM »

well I've seen them in person and everyone I talked to and from what I've witnessed personally LOVES their IROKS They are quite soft and get awesome traction. I've got some 38.5 TSL's and think personally that they are quite hard. The iroks are just so soft and seem to get some awesome traction. Not to bash on four wheeler mag to much but I don't really take into account some of their test because they only really use them in the test on one kind of rock and arent' driving them everytime they go to the trail.

Shamb · « **Reply #28 on:** Apr 04, 2006, 09:35:05 PM »

Yea I like Iroks, my buddy has a set of 39.5's but they bounce alot on the rocks from what i've seen.

They're awesome in the snow/ mud.

gotrocks · « **Reply #29 on:** Apr 05, 2006, 12:25:48 AM »

ok I found your problem for finding axles. I have a buddy who is selling a complete 1 ton crew cab chevy diesel pickup. Its driveable and it would be a awesome donor truck for the axles. If your interested I'll give you an exact price its under 2 grand for a running 1 ton chevy. oh and I forgot to mention its got a manual tranny and a 205 t/c. So in parts alone your taking about something worth more than 2 grand.

Shamb [OP]

Shamb [OP]

- Sales Employee -

Shamb [OP]

- Sales Employee -

Shamb [OP]

Shamb [OP]

- Sales Employee -

Shamb [OP]

Shamb [OP]

Shamb [OP]

Shamb [OP]

Shamb [OP]

Shamb [OP]

Related Topics