Author Topic: Help! What Snow Chains To Run? Any Avice? (Read 5290 times)

DTB · « **on:** Dec 16, 2005, 08:47:13 PM »

Hey guys,

I hope this isn't a newb question. I tried searching on here but didnt find alot. I'm from Missouri so I don't know a lot about tire chains. I'm planning a trip to Colorado with some mild trail riding in February. I have done some research but have found limited info on what type of chain is best to run (ladder vs. pattern) and I understand cables suck! What do you guys run and why? Front, rear or both? Where to source them from? Any input would help.

Thanks,
Collier
(Dirtoyboy)

IronClad · « **Reply #1 on:** Dec 16, 2005, 10:42:43 PM »

unless you are dealing with a ton of ice chains arent going to make that big of a difference than proper air pressure will. chains will just dig you to china. a buncha buddies and i have tire pressure down to a science.. depending on what the snow is like and everything

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #2 on:** Dec 17, 2005, 03:32:06 AM »

IronClad's right on, the chains will dig down thorugh the snow and bog you down, you want a nice wide footprint that will compact the snow and float up on top of it.

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #3 on:** Dec 17, 2005, 08:32:36 AM »

yea colorado gets snow, they dont get 4 inches of sleet like we do , your best to get some simple ladder type chains but dont use them unless you have a layer of ice on the ground

DTB · « **Reply #4 on:** Dec 17, 2005, 01:59:19 PM »

Thanks for the input guys. Is there anything different I need to know about fitting chains on 33 or 35" tires? If they are needed is it better to run them front and back or does it depend on conditions? Ive never driven in mountains in the snow, it kind of scares me!

Everyone in our group is locked up in the rear, one with ARB front, 2 with lockrights in front and 1 truck open in front.

IronClad · « **Reply #5 on:** Dec 17, 2005, 02:25:55 PM »

if you have to run them id run them just on the front first so you will be able to steer and if you have to id toss a set on the back then if you need more traction

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #6 on:** Dec 17, 2005, 03:09:47 PM »

the only times i use chains is when there is snow on top of ice or just ice, 4 years ago we had a big ice storm that lasted for 7 days, we dont have salt trucks, well we didnt then anyway, we have a few now, but if the

hit the fan we'd be screwed again

anyway i wouldnt worry about the snow at all just air down to about 15-18psi and drive careful, chains will just slow you down on powdered or packed snow

DTB · « **Reply #7 on:** Dec 17, 2005, 04:19:41 PM »

Quote from: IronClad on Dec 17, 2005, 02:25:55 PM

if you have to run them id run them just on the front first so you will be able to steer and if you have to id toss a set on the back then if you need more traction

For the trails I think I'll just air down a bit. Don't think it will be a problem. On the road, traction in the rear could be a serious issue for me. I have an aluminum flatbed that weighs like 3 pounds. Even on flat ground on snow in 2wd my rear (w/detroit) always tries to catch up with the front

I'm really worried about my rear slipping out at higher speeds and puttin me in a ditch. (I know it sounds pessimistic) I think I might need to pickup a set for front and rear. Prismo told me he uses ones that have little pieces of metal (welded on the chain) for better traction? Anyone know where I can order a reasonably priced set. I dont think many places in MO would sell them

IronClad · « **Reply #8 on:** Dec 17, 2005, 04:40:22 PM »

if your rear tries to pass you up sounds like you need to learn to drive.. a buddy can back me up on this too.. the last snow run i went on with him with my truck i was in 4lo 5th gear at about 50 mph ontop of probably 4 feet of snow just plain gettin it and i was welded front and rear and i could hold a line no problem. my truck acted like it was open front and rear. learn to use your gas and brake

chains are for when you come across ice. in snow they dig to much. up here in the snow season we turn the trails into a freeway and race each other. aint nothin like 65mph ontop of 6 feet of snow

DTB · « **Reply #9 on:** Dec 17, 2005, 05:30:31 PM »

Quote from: IronClad on Dec 17, 2005, 04:40:22 PM

if your rear tries to pass you up sounds like you need to learn to drive..

True, IC, I probably do need to work on my driving skills in the snow. We dont get a lot of it around here. I think the snow conditions play a huge part. Driving on fresh or crunchy snow is different. The last time my ass was slipping like that it was on hard packed snow on the street with a layer of ICE under. I appreciate the input.

-Collier

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #10 on:** Dec 17, 2005, 05:57:42 PM »

Quote from: Dirtoyboy on Dec 17, 2005, 04:19:41 PM

For the trails I think I'll just air down a bit. Don't think it will be a problem. On the road, traction in the rear could be a serious issue for me. I have an aluminum flatbed that weighs like 3 pounds. Even on flat ground on snow in 2wd my rear (w/detroit) always tries to catch up with the front I'm really worried about my rear slipping out at higher speeds and puttin me in a ditch. (I know it sounds pessimistic) I think I might need to pickup a set for front and rear. Prismo told me he uses ones that have little pieces of metal (welded on the chain) for better traction? Anyone know where I can order a reasonably priced set. I dont think many places in MO would sell them

if i was you i would drop that tool box into the bed, so that it sits on the frame, then ad some weight to the rear, a good heavy bumper and some trail armor would be nice, and will help you flex better

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #11 on:** Dec 17, 2005, 06:13:10 PM »

Prismo · « **Reply #12 on:** Dec 17, 2005, 08:37:35 PM »

For some reason I thought you would be using the chains on the road & not on the trail. I never use chains on the trail myself although I have seen others use them (usually front tires only as mentioned earlier). For me the key to successful snow wheeling is airing down, especially in deep snow. I air down to as low as 3psi to stay on top of the snow.The bigger the tire patch contact to the snow, the better off you are. The Buckshots I was running before would not lose a bead at that pressure, I will see how the MTR's do later this winter. I just kept taking them lower & lower until they finally lost a bead & then went up 2 or 3 psi & ran them there. Your snow is drier out your way so adjust pressure until the tires work best for you in the conditions you have. Different tires seem to work best at different pressures & in different conditions.

DTB · « **Reply #13 on:** Dec 17, 2005, 09:27:18 PM »

Quote from: 79Coyotefrg on Dec 17, 2005, 05:57:42 PM

if i was you i would drop that tool box into the bed, so that it sits on the frame, then ad some weight to the rear, a good heavy bumper and some trail armor would be nice, and will help you flex better

Toolbox is big and cant go any lower. Already have rear bumper. How can I add more weight to the rear. I was thinking about adding some barbell weights inside the spare. Any ideas?

IronClad · « **Reply #14 on:** Dec 17, 2005, 09:54:29 PM »

move your gas tank to behind the rear axle... fill your rear frame section with lead

DTB · « **Reply #15 on:** Dec 18, 2005, 12:23:20 AM »

Thanks Iron Clad $Beer Chug\'n$

79coyotefrg · « **Reply #16 on:** Dec 18, 2005, 07:38:07 AM »

Quote from: Dirtoyboy on Dec 17, 2005, 09:27:18 PM

Toolbox is big and cant go any lower. Already have rear bumper. How can I add more weight to the rear. I was thinking about adding some barbell weights inside the spare. Any ideas?

besides the floor of your bed whats keeping it from going lower

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #17 on:** Dec 18, 2005, 04:21:04 PM »

For more added weight get some old inner tubes, and make about four of them say three feet long and fill them with moist sand, and plug off the ends with wooden dowls and hose clamps. And use tie downs to hold them in place at the end of your bed where your spare is now, that will give ya easily 200 to 250 lbs of added weight, and if it's too much slide them forward, or take one off! And for added traction on ice and snow will be to have your tires cross siped! The more the tread block is broken up, the better the traction on the hwy when the roadway is wet and icy! I take my wildcat ext's off in the winter cause they break loose on ice really bad! I run a excellent tire that has a ton of siping to the tread in the winter! The pics are below to show the tread difference. By the way the all season tire does very good in the woods as well as the traction!
I carry chains only for the purpose to get out, our rule of thumb around here is go as far as you can without chains and put them on to get out, or if the conditions get worse on the way out! Chains can get you in trouble really quick!
I see you run BFG's, most people around here run them and have been know to do very good in the snow, especially on heavier rigs!

DTB · « **Reply #18 on:** Dec 19, 2005, 03:11:44 AM »

when i do need them; which style is better? Ladder or Diamond pattern? I'm assuming the diamond pattern for better lateral traction

hudlenutz · « **Reply #19 on:** Dec 19, 2005, 09:26:28 AM »

Get a hot knife and start carving on those muds. Don't slice on the outer lugs, though, to avoid chunking later on. The crosslinked tire chains will create less driveline stress and vibration, and give better side-hill traction. If possible, get chains with the cam-locks on them. They keep chains really tight, which is a must when wheeling. I love chains. They're great for traction on the slippery stuff, but I love low pressure more. Try both.

Also, I usually run my chains in the rear, and they work fine. I just don't have enought fender clearance at full lock to clear them in the front.

toybuilt · « **Reply #20 on:** Dec 19, 2005, 09:33:41 AM »

I use Super Swamper's, they seem to work great. If you don't have Super Swamper's I would say that the Diamond patturn would be your best bet.

V-Man · « **Reply #21 on:** Dec 19, 2005, 04:20:11 PM »

Quote from: Dirtoyboy on Dec 19, 2005, 03:11:44 AM

when i do need them; which style is better? Ladder or Diamond pattern? I'm assuming the diamond pattern for better lateral traction

The biggest advantage to the ladder style is that they are easy to repair, or mod.. If you have the cross links and a set of chain pliers, you can replace a broken cross link, more them around, or add more to fill in gaps in the patten. I build my chains myself from transport truck tire chains. They are bulletproof. If you want you can even add cross links between two cross links so it around the curve of the tire not across it.

And the guys are right, they are not for snow. They are for ice. Ice on the road, ice on the lake/river, ice under snow that is not deep enough etc. That is why the right name for them is "ICE CHAINS".. P.S would you guys be interested in a write up on how I build my own chains?
Well I don't BUILD them from scratch( I could I know how) I start with chains made for a big rig called "singles" that fit on steering tires.

cruzila · « **Reply #22 on:** Dec 19, 2005, 04:22:11 PM »

Just put all your extra junk on the back and get on it. It is all about proper throttle control and tire flotation. BFG's are prolly the best snow tire under 35" as well as being a real good all around tire. Run them down as far as 5 PSI and don't worry about it. You can run them at 15 PSI anywhere, street, trail.

DTB · « **Reply #23 on:** Dec 19, 2005, 04:29:00 PM »

Quote from: cruzila on Dec 19, 2005, 04:22:11 PM

Just put all your extra junk on the back and get on it. It is all about proper throttle control and tire flotation. BFG's are prolly the best snow tire under 35" as well as being a real good all around tire. Run them down as far as 5 PSI and don't worry about it. You can run them at 15 PSI anywhere, street, trail.

Thanks for the info guys. Cruzila seems to have the most simple effective answer. remember im from missouri so i dont know a lot about deep snow driving or much of anything else

Yes VE3NLP, we would like some info on your chains.

V-Man · « **Reply #24 on:** Dec 19, 2005, 06:24:07 PM »

Quote from: Dirtoyboy on Dec 19, 2005, 04:29:00 PM

Thanks for the info guys. Cruzila seems to have the most simple effective answer. remember im from missouri so i dont know a lot about deep snow driving or much of anything else Yes VE3NLP, we would like some info on your chains.

Ok Dirtoyboy, I'll put together a written account on how to mod big rig tire chains for use on your Yoda.. You need to tell me a couple things though. Have you ever been to a truck stop or shop the works on and carries parts for the highway trucks?

If you have then the list of parts can be ordered/purchased there.

It's not the long of a list:
One set of chain pliers( they look like over sized Multi-pliers)

A set of tire chains call " singles" for each tire chain you want to build( get the ones for 22.5 tires the cross links are
shorter and need less adjustment)

A hand full of replacement cross links( you need to space the cross links for your tires)

I will try and get a few pic's of the different parts for you. I haven't built a set for a while but maybe a spare set would be nice to have on hand.

DTB · « **Reply #25 on:** Dec 19, 2005, 06:49:28 PM »

Sweet!

Thanks VE3NLP! I can find a truck stop in the area that's not a prob. And I think I have a set of chain pliers laying around.

I'll be looking forward to your report.

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #26 on:** Dec 20, 2005, 01:58:28 AM »

Definitely go with the heavy truck style chains like said, easy to rebuild! Even with the cam locks it's a good idea to get bungees for them just incase they break, so they don't go whipping around and do some serious damage!

I've seen cheap chains break and wipe out brake lines! Not good. Another thing to keep in the back of your mind is if you have to put them on, to drive about 30 to 40 feet and then retighten them.

Rockcrawlintoy · « **Reply #27 on:** Dec 21, 2005, 10:59:41 PM »

Quote from: Dirtoyboy on Dec 19, 2005, 04:29:00 PM

Thanks for the info guys. Cruzila seems to have the most simple effective answer. remember im from missouri so i dont know a lot about deep snow driving or much of anything else Yes VE3NLP, we would like some info on your chains.

air down in the snow when its deep. as far as driving its pretty easy if u stop goin forward just back up and hit it with a little momentum. do u have dual cases?

DRew

DTB · « **Reply #28 on:** Dec 22, 2005, 02:30:37 PM »

Quote from: Rockcrawlintoy on Dec 21, 2005, 10:59:41 PM

air down in the snow when its deep. as far as driving its pretty easy if u stop goin forward just back up and hit it with a little momentum. do u have dual cases?

DRew

Not yet, single case, 4.88's, 33's

V-Man · « **Reply #29 on:** Feb 27, 2006, 03:31:42 PM »

Bad news guys, I have been trying to buy chains from places in Ontario, and they don't sell them here. One place all butt asked me to leave saying they were ILLEGAL

to have in ontario. The place I did finally find that sells them (special order only) does not sell them at this time of year( It's the middle of winter) because they would not be in till about MAY or June. If I want to order a set I have to go back and order them in June so I can have them for October

. They also sell the crosslinks to repair the chains ( Again Special order) at over a hundred dollars for ten links. The Pliers for working on the chains are just two hundred and eighty bucks a real steal( only I'm not the one doing the robbing), and they are special order as well and only avalible in June. They say that they place an order once a year for chains and it I want to get a set I can pay for them now and they will call when they arrive in October. They only order the chains that people have prepaid for. When I asked how many sets of chains do they sell in a year? they told me three or four. I stopped at a truckstop out west(alberta) and they had chains just laying on pallets, with pails of crosslinks, and pliers too. If I had the money I could have bought the chains, links, and a set of pliers for about 3 hundred dollars( did not have the cash), the place in ontario wants $500 for the chains, $120 for ten(10) 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,****10**** links, and $280 for the pliers. Just under a grand for something you can normally get for the about that cost of a good friday night.

Sorry guys it going to be a while.

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