Budders' 3rz conversion- getting fiberglass bedsides!

[BUDDERS]

I also ripped out the cruise control activator.

I'm still trying to find parts like a Air Flow Meter, my missing fuel filter, lower radiator hose and a OBDII connector that is supposed to be attached to the dash wirring harness I have for a Taco.  Wish me luck.

If anyone has a AFM for a '01 to '04 2rz or 3rz they want to sell please PM me.

[b_ripper8]

Sounds like you're coming along.

[BUDDERS]

Woohoo!  I found the knock sensor wire on the '01 engine harness.  I just took a peak at one at work and found what to look for..... It is on the engine harness after all.

Ok, so I made some progress today.  I removed the evaporator box, cut a hole in the firewall above the a/c lines and ran the engine harness through it.  Then I was still able to install the evap box.  I also bought a toggle switch panel at Pepboys for my accessory lights and got it trimmed up to fit on the left side of the dash - it looks pretty sweet.  I also installed a couple Pioneer 4" speakers in the dash and ran the wire for them to the radio area for future radio installation.

Tomorrow, I need to figure out how to mount the ecu and I will do as much wirring as I can.

[BUDDERS]

Wow, I haven't updated this thread for a couple years.  That's really sad.  Sorry guys,  I got a girlfriend somewhere in there and ended up marrying her a few months back - needless to say, time to work on the truck has almost been eliminated.  Now money is tight and we are both looking for new jobs.  I did get a bit accomplished on the 3rz swap yesterday though.

So before I got married, I was getting sick of going down to the garage and staring at wiring diagrams trying to figure this out (and also sick of the annoying neighbor kid pestering me the whole time), so while I actually had some money, I ordered the wire harness conversion from ORS.  They gave really detailed instructions and had everything labeled for me.  They were able to run the power wires properly for my battery relocation and ecu relocation (up by windshield).  I got everything installed in the dash and got the dash back in it after it was out for a couple years.  Now, I just have to finish connecting the ORS conversion harness to the engine side of things, fab and install a couple of extension lines on the stock evap line an fuel return line, and some fluid and it should start.  Oh and I almost forgot,  I will still probably have to do the 10k ohm resistor mod to my factory tach to get it to work.

I need to get this done real soon, cause if I get this other job, I won't have a lift to use anymore - and I still have a clutch to change out and Marlin's 4" suspension kit to install.

[88_Pathy]

Keep posted on the tach with the resistor installed. Nice project!

[BUDDERS]

Ok, I did the tach 10k ohm tach resistor mod - really easy and my first time at successfully soldering on a circuit board (don't ask about the other time).

The ORS conversion harness is completely installed now with the dash all back together and I went to fire it up and it cranks, but didn't start.  I checked the basics: Air, fuel and spark.  Well, it's not getting any fuel pressure at the fuel rail.  I listened to see if the fuel pump is working and couldn't hear it like you normally can.  I checked the output voltage at the fuel pump relay and the positive wire to the fuel pump isn't getting any voltage, but the other wires to the relay are.  I took the relay out and bench tested it and it tested ok.  I disconnected the fuel pump pigtail and hooked it to a jumper box and still couldn't hear it running.  So after all that,  today I pulled the gas tank down and pulled the pump out.  Man, this thing is corroded!  I'm definately gonna have to replace the fuel pump, clean out the lines, have the gas tank cleaned and possibly replace my fuel sending unit I just installed a couple years ago when this project started.  Everything is corroded because of the old gas!  That old gas smells pretty bad too.  Hopefully next weekend after I get this tank back in, I can get it running.  TOYOTA, oh what a feeling!

[BUDDERS]

Ok, so I decided that the inside of my gas tank needs a little TLC and I ordered a gas tank kit from POR-15 and it should be here next week.

I went down to the junk yard this morning and got a few odd's and ends for the project.  The most notable for the 3rz conversion is the high pressure power steering hose.  As anyone who has done this conversion before would know, the 3rz high pressure p/s hose has a funky banjo type fitting on the pump end and is just plain too long for this project.  I tried and tried to get different hose companies to cut a section out of the 3rz one and just splice it back together, but nobody would do it for me cause the hard line is metric and the hose has some kind of a noise silencer in it - which nobody knows how to deal with. 

So hear is my solution:  after digging around at the junk yard, I found a V6 Taco high pressure hose that has funky fitting for the p/s pump and I can cut it down and flange the end so it will work.  The best part is that it was free cause I know the owner of the junk yard .  The bad part is, he is closing down his yard in May, so I better get everything I might possibly need cause I'm won't have the best hookup on parts I've ever had anymore.

[Proteus503]

I just started a similar swap...  I'm putting a '96 3rz (distributor type) into an '86 IFS 4x4 turbo truck.

Did you have to use the t-100 oil pan and dipstick?  is your truck IFS or solid axle?

have you tackled the wiring yet?

do you plan on using your stock gauge cluster?

got any pics of your engine mounts?

thanks!

[BUDDERS]

Proteus503,

I did use the t100 oil pan/ pickup tube and dipstick.

My truck is an '85 and came with a solid axle.

Yes, the wirring is done (with help of the ORS conversion harness).  I highly recomend this harness!

Yes I am using the stock guage cluster, but I had to do the 10k ohm resistor mod to the tachometer because mine does not have a distributor.  You should not have to do this mod.

Nope, I don't have any pics of the engine mounts - I was in too much of a rush to ge it out of the shop and into my garage.  I did mine just like BigMike's.  Check out his buildup thread - I know he has some picks.

-Budders

[88_Pathy]

If I read it right the 10k resistor mod worked on your 4 coil motor?

[BigMike]

If I read it right the 10k resistor mod worked on your 4 coil motor?

X2

[Proteus503]

thanks for the input!

ors wiring adaptor is $600 - $700... for that price i might do a haltech e6x stand alone.

[BUDDERS]

Well, the motor is not actually up and running at this point.  I'm still waiting on the POR-15 to get here so I can coat my gas tank and install it with the new fuel pump and fuel pump sender, but ORS told me that the 10k ohm resistor mod will work, so I did it while my dash was apart.

BTW, I suck and soldering on circuit boards, but my 10k ohm resistor mod came out great.

[BigMike]

I'm lost. What now? You modified the stock 4-coil 3RZ system to use with a single coil tach and it works? I am very skeptical about this. Stock tach? If so, what year/engine model tachometer are you using?

[BUDDERS]

BigMike,  The truck is a '85 SR5 with a factory tach and gauges.  The engine is a 2004 3rz (4 Coil).  ORS told me that the 10k ohm resistor mod to the tach needs to be done to any 3rz conversion using a factory tach and a 2 or 4 coil 3rz.  Please school me if you see something wrong with what they told me.  I've already done the 10k Ohm resistor mod per their instructions. 

I finally got the POR-15 for my gas tank and started the varnish removing process last night.  Today I will move on to the metal prep portion of their gas tank kit.

[BigMike]

I am just as curious if this will work as you are. I'm standing by for when you get it running

[88_Pathy]

I am with Mike. If this actually works it will save some serious headaches for me and Mike in the near future.

[bkubisht]

So what's the status man?  Does it run?  Did you land that new job?  'Sup??

[BUDDERS]

Well, it won't start yet.  The fuel system is all fixed now and the fuel rail is getting pressure.  The engine cranks and as far as I can tell, everything is hooked up except for the rear o2 sensor (still need to weld a bung in exhaust).  I still need to see if it's getting spark, but I really need to hook up a scan tool to see if I'm getting all my sensor inputs, and I don't have one.  I gotta see if I can get a buddy over here with one.

Hey bkubisht, didn't you get a laptop OBD II program?  If so, can you give me the link to it?




And yes, I did land the job.  Two days after I started there, we got bought out by a huge company and were told they were going to close down our location at the end of March 2009.  The way things are looking, I should have a job longer than that though.......

[bkubisht]

Yeah, I've got a scan tool that I use with a regular computer (or laptop).  I have the one by EASE, which is www.obd2.com.  But I don't recommend it.  It does an OK job, you can read DTCs with freezeframes and realtime sensor outputs, but the software is very clumsy to navigate.  The data logging & playback sucks if it works at all.  And they promised lifetime software updates.  Well, it's been about 4 years since I bought it, and I've bugged them for the lastest software and they pretty much said pack sand.

Get the one that 4RnrRick was using, that looked really nice.

I passed up a trip to San Diego this week.  Maybe I should've come, we'd have it running tonight!

[bkubisht]

At least plug in that rear O2 sensor so it doesn't throw a code until the engine is warmed up.  Reset the ECU and see if you still get a code.

If money's still tight for you, I could drop my scanner in the mail on loan.

[BUDDERS]

It doesn't even look like I will get a code unless the engine will fire up.  The check engine light isn't flashing, but it does come on when cranking (normal).  I need to get a bung for the exhaust and get a rear o2 sensor for it still, but I thought it would fire up without it, won't it?  As far as I know, it should only be using any signals from the rear o2 sensor after it goes into closed loop.

bkubisht, let me talk to my friend out here about using a scan tool before you put yours in the mail.

[4RnrRick]

Well, it won't start yet.  .... everything is hooked up except for the rear o2 sensor....

You missed something - the motor does not "need" O2 sensors to run. Sure it won't run correctly, but it will fire up and run.

[bkubisht]

Yeah, but without that O2 sensor and without a scan tool he has no way of knowing if there are malfunctions reported beyond a break in the O2 heater circuit.

[BUDDERS]

You missed something - the motor does not "need" O2 sensors to run. Sure it won't run correctly, but it will fire up and run.

Yeah, I know Rick.  It would probably run full rich without a front o2 sensor since that's the factory "Oh crap" mechanism.  Without the rear O2 sensor, it would probably not get into closed loop because it can't tell if the cat is heated up or not.

Yeah, but without that O2 sensor and without a scan tool he has no way of knowing if there are malfunctions reported beyond a break in the O2 heater circuit.

True, but I still need to check if I have spark - and I need 2 people to do that, and there's no way my wife would want to help me in the garage.  I need to get a neighbor to help turn the key.



P.S. Rick, your builds rock.  I wish I had half the fab skills you have.

[SocalWheeler71]

Hey Budders, I don't know if I ever thanked you for your help finding that elocker connector part number, but thanks, with your help I was able to figure out the P/N for the HP connector. I've been busy with my build, got my SAS done, everything is pretty much done except for the bumpers and sliders, just waiting for some tube funds to free up.

Anyways, if you need to check it for spark by yourself just use a starter trigger to crank the motor, it's a momentary switch that you hook up to the batt and starter signal terminal, you can buy them or you can make one pretty easily. Hope this helps.

[BUDDERS]

Hey Budders, I don't know if I ever thanked you for your help finding that elocker connector part number, but thanks, with your help I was able to figure out the P/N for the HP connector. I've been busy with my build, got my SAS done, everything is pretty much done except for the bumpers and sliders, just waiting for some tube funds to free up.

Anyways, if you need to check it for spark by yourself just use a starter trigger to crank the motor, it's a momentary switch that you hook up to the batt and starter signal terminal, you can buy them or you can make one pretty easily. Hope this helps.

Yeah, I've used one of those starter triggers before, but I don't have one of my own.  I saw my old team leader break both his legs while using one if that counts   (forgot his truck was in gear).

[BUDDERS]

Ok, after a lot of time ignoring this truck and too much time doing house projects in my spare time, I got it running!  I had it cranking a while ago, but it wouldn't start.  Thanks to my friend Eric (O.G.) lending me his scan tool, I fugured out why it wouldn't start.  It was getting codes P1300, P1305, P1310 and P1315 from the ecu.  Did some quick pin checks at the #1 coil pack and found out I wasn't getting a 12V signal to the coils.  Now, according to the 2001 Taco EWD, that voltage is supposed to come straight from the ignition switch.  Since my truck is using a conversion harness from ORS, I'll have to give them a call on Monday to see if they know what's up.  I jumped the black/red 12V wire on the #1 coil to battery voltage and it fired right up!  So i'm guessing I probably screwed something up somewhere along the way (I did here and smell a wire frying in the dash sometime durring the swap!).

I still have some things on the do do list before this thing goes to the smog ref:

     1. Install rear O2 sensor
     2. Install correct oil pressure sensor
     3. Replace fan (this one came out of the wrecked truck that my motor came out of and is bent).  I might just use my black majic out of my '87 since on planning on selling that truck.
     4. Fab up new clutch hydraulic line - I don't like the way this one turned out.
     5. Figure out why I don't have that 12v signal to the ignition coils.
     6. Clean out interior and install PRP seats
     7. Set up my corner lights for turn signals too.
     8. Put some lift shackes or blocks on the rear to keep the tires from rubbing

Oh, and for the record, the 10k Ohm resistor mod works with the 3rd gen 3rz motor 

[BUDDERS]

Here's the list of things to do after the smog ref has given his stamp of approval:

    1.  Install my Marlin 4" suspension kit w/hysteer that's been sitting in the garage forever
    2.  Install my front and rear e-lockers - still need to be re-geared to 529's
    4.  Bumpers and body Armor.  Want front bumper and sliders first, then figure out what I want to do with the rear
    5.  Spare tire holder - looking to have a tire-gate type one built to replace the tailgate
    6.  Get a stereo wired up - needs some tunes bad

And I'm sure there will be plenty more.....

[bkubisht]

I just saw the update...  Congrats!  This must be the longest 3rz swap on record!

Sounds like you missed the same power source that I had missed during wiring.  On the '98 taco there was a 12v power splice within the dash harness, it wasn't obvious at all from the EWD.  I think it powered the coils, MAF, and a couple other things.  So you're in good company.

5.29's ??  I thought you were going to run 33's or similar?