Topic: Ring and Pinion Question

[KDC]

Alright, so my friends and I are rebuilding the front axle in a '79 pick-up, because the seals were bad and gear oil and grease were mixing in places they shouldn't be.  So we decide to play it safe and check the rear diff oil.  We drain the oil and a couple of chunks of metal come out.  So we pull the third member and find that a whole tooth on the ring gear is missing.  All the other teeth look good and the pinion looks good.
So, first, can you replace the ring gear without getting a new pinion?

We're probably going to get a new pinion anyway, which leads me to my next question:
How hard is it to put the pinion in correctly?
-Is it just torqueing it to the right amount or is there more to it than that?

Input would be much appreciated.

[8D3TOY]

no they need to wear together,both must be new, it's pretty tough to get it right with out special tools, drop the 3rd take it to a pro you will be $$$$ ahead that way, but if you want to learn get all the tools from a gear dealer like Randy's R&P and learn by doing.  Lots of info out there but time consuming to get it right.

[KDC [OP]]

Thanks 8D3TOY.
That's what I needed to know.

[79coyotefrg]

KDC  send me your 3rd or at least that pinion

[KDC [OP]]

Well, it's not mine to send, but if you want the pinion, I might be able to work something out.

By the way, in your signature, it says you have 20r/22r hybrid.  Is that a 20r block with a 22r head?
My friend just bought an '85 pick-up and was thinking about doing this because the engine is blown.

[79coyotefrg]

uh nope thats a 22R early block, 93.5mm bore with a 20R head
the 20R head flows better and has a smaller combustion chamber so it raises the compression
i'll be happy to offer any advice  if you need it

i have a 4.37 ring gear,  its not hard to set up a used gearset, but you have to assume some added wear if either gear has unusual wear pattern,

[KDC [OP]]

Well, the 22R that we have has a good head, and the guy we bought it from (four-wheeler and works for Toyota) said that we could use a 20R block with a 22R head, which, he said, would give us higher compression.  Now I'm wondering if he had it backwards or can you also do it that way?

Thanks Coyotefrg for the info.

[11 Bravo]

Where are you at in Colorado and what gear ratio do you need? Is the front OK?

[Rocksurfer]

Well, the 22R that we have has a good head, and the guy we bought it from (four-wheeler and works for Toyota) said that we could use a 20R block with a 22R head, which, he said, would give us higher compression.  Now I'm wondering if he had it backwards or can you also do it that way?

Thanks Coyotefrg for the info.

Well someone got it backassward, I have the same hybrid as Coyotefrg and you need an early 22r block and a 20r head. I have an 84 22r block with the original 80 20r head.

[KDC [OP]]

Where are you at in Colorado and what gear ratio do you need? Is the front OK?

I'm in Boulder, CO.  We just need the stock 4.10s.  The front should work because we just need the ring and pinion and from what I understand they are interchangeable, right?

Thanks Rocksurfer.  Now we know not to look for a 20R block and just probably rebuild the 22R. 

[79coyotefrg]

if you find a 20R for like $50  grab it its worth it for the rods,crank,timingcover and head

i have seen 20R blocks bored to take standard 92mm 22R pistons but it has to be done in steps


and yes you have to use a 22R block and the 20R head, 

[kyle_22r]

i've heard the 20R tends to have a little porosity in the bore if you get deep.  easiest to find a early 22R block, you can even use the crank and rods from the 20R, just use 22R pistons.

the chamber size is only a couple cc smaller on the 20R head but so wont do much for your compression.  it's mainly a swap for the port design, as it's much better for flow than the 22R.  on the downside the 20R's intake ports are smaller than the 22R.

here's how my engine was built:

bottom end:
'82 celica 22R block, crank and rods with ARP main studs and ohio 1mm oversize pistons(had a deep scratch in the #1 bore).

top end:
'79 20R head(off my original engine), engnbldr 1mm oversize stainless valves, bronze guides, new springs and keepers, mild port job.

intake/exhaust:
'82 22R carb(rebuilt, but junking soon because it runs too lean and its already starting to fall apart after 6 months...gonna put my 32/36 with an offy manifold on), stock 20R manifold.  i've got a 20R exhaust manifold on it, but putting my thorley header on tomorrow and redoing the pipe with 2.25"

[11 Bravo]

I'm in Boulder, CO. We just need the stock 4.10s. The front should work because we just need the ring and pinion and from what I understand they are interchangeable, right?

Thanks Rocksurfer. Now we know not to look for a 20R block and just probably rebuild the 22R.

I have a couple of 3rd members in the shed, but nothing with 4:10.  I may be headed that way for some other business, so I thought I would see if I coudld help you out.