Topic: body lift

[JR1956]

:help:I have a 84 runner. I want to run 35's. What would be better a 2 or 3 body lift and a small lift on the springs or a 5 or 6" lift with springs? Do you get more articulation with the chev. springs or something like A.O.R. or All Pro?

[90TOYPU]

In regards to body lifts, I'm not a fan of anything over 1", but I know a lot of people run 3" body lifts with no problem. In general the longer and flatter the springs are at rest the more travel they can offer. If money isn't a major concern I would get Alcan or AOR Orbit Eye springs and have the front springs made to locate the axle forward of the stock position then you wont have to use as tall a spring.......I have 5" alcan springs that locate the front axle foward as well as an All Pro front spring hanger that moves the axle forward and I run 37" Goodyear MTRS with no problems.....but I also have bump stops that don't let my front springs go past flat.....they can't negative arch. If you are looking for all out travel then I'll have to have to talk to someone else....my rig is a daily driver that is still very capable off road. So I don't mind giving up some travel for better on road capabilities. Hope I made some sense. Good Luck

[mr4x42u]

I ran a 2 in body lift on my 4 runner just fro the fact i wanted to raise my fuel tank.I got it raised just at 1 3/4 inces.I think the 3in looks funny and is too high,thats just what I think.I realy don't like body lifts at all but I wanted tha clearance on the fuel tank..I am not a fan of the allpro springs.I thought mine flexed better.Mine are cross breed stock,downey 3in and jsut some that looked right<(not sure what they came out of.anyway it does real well.A little soft in the corners on pavement but a great flex machine..It took me a while to find a good combo but it was well worth saving the money over the allpro and alcan springs..trial and error..take some mesurements and look around in the wrecking yard..all kinds of good dtuff there..I also built some springs close to the allpro ones that are stock toy but 2 inches longer,,work great with a 3in longer shackle,soft flexy and cheap..I think its better than mine,,I will be going that route for myself soon..4runners rock!

[drybone]

I chose the 3" body lift with a soft 4" leaf spring lift.  I'm not running a rock crawler but I wanted to clear tall Buckshot's or 35's 10.50's Simex's if they finally reach america.  First thing I realized was how bogus these kits are.  I threw away the back lift blocks and am in the process of welding 3' rectangular steel all the way across frame rail to frame rail.  This will not only work as a body lift but will strengthen the bed to frame system.  I haven't figured a front tie in so I will stick with the body lift blocks for now.  I know there is lot of people out there who do not like body lifts but I have to say there is a lot of benefits for it.  You get the clearance to clear larger tires while still keeping the engine, frame, and tranny lower.  This I feel keeps a lower center of gravity than having everything up higher.  I now have room between the frame and bed to mount a bunch of stuff  ie:fuel pumps, air tanks etc.  The engine bay has more room in it and you get to throw in a much larger radiater in front (bonus when you live near death valley) also my winch sits lower in the front and now more air reaches the radiater.  But  I feel the coolest thing about it is the fact that I can cut out the tranny tunnel and lay down a flat piece of aluminum and build my own boots around the shifters.  There now is room under the heater for a CB or speakers etc.  If your building a sick rock crawler then go with the lift from the springs, if you just want to put taller tires on just to clear obstacles then a leaf lift and body lift combined would be fine and provided you do the body lift properly.

[85yota03]

body lifts are stupid looking if you go to high, i wouldnt go over 2 inches

[89yotaIFSman]

If i were you I would go with the 5 or 6 inch leaf spring lift, body lifts are no good.

[85YotaMan]

I fully agree with 85yota03, 2 inch max

[85yota03]

unless you want a big gap that looks stupid, dont go with a big body lift

[rEdnECkwHeE1eR]

Why don't you guys just get one name "InbredGluesniffingGummoclub" And use that since you guys all have the EXACT same oppinoin on every thing.

[85yota03]

Inbreds think alike thats all, someday you will understand

[drybone]

 Sure bodylifts look stupid if you just throw them on and leave them.  Rednek way to do things.

I built a subframe that is way stronger than the original setup and is clean... :up:  Not to mention more point's  going  is now with the subframe in place I can run 3" longer shocks front and rear, and that the body is higher up, it's gonna stay out of harms way.  

Body Lifts can be pretty cool additions to your truck, given you think about it properly.  Go with a cheap system and sure, it looks bogus.  I keep finding all sorts of new and cool things that my lift is doing for the truck.
It's all about experimentation ;D :up: :change:

[Ruari]

I have always run a 3" body lift.  In my opinion there is nothing wrong with 2" or 3" body lifts.  By putting the body lift on it allows you place your bumpers higher thus giving you better approach and departure angles.

Just my opinion.

[trt2]

I am also not a fan of body lifts but guess what... I am installing a 1 inch body lift this winter.  If done properly, I believe they can work.

be sure to check out Roger Brown's site and his info on body lifts, I bought his kit.

4crawler.com    or something like that, do a search.

have fun...

[booger_weldz]

i run a 2" bodylift from roger brown.  it uses big fat poly pucks and grade 5 hardware.  the truck has been repeatedly slammed, thrown down on its side and rolled. it doesnt squirm or squeek...

http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml

[JR1956 [OP]]

Thanks for the input. What if I cut off the body mounts and made new one's 2" higher and welded them on? Or is that just a lot of work for nothing. I just put on a front range cross member. Without a body lift stock is as high as I could lift the TC.

[drybone]

That is one way to go about it.  When I was thinking of doing my truck all over again, I wanted to start from the frame up.  I thought about cutting and welding the mounts 3" higher.  But never got to it.

Use 2" heavy duty steal spacers on the bed portion of the truck, just weld it together.  Then if you think you can do it , cut and reweld 2" higher the four cab mounts.  THen I would run 2" steal spacers (welded like the rear) on the front 2 mounts.  This will stiffen the up the front end (winch area, bumpers, etc.) and shouldn't allow too much rattle into the cab.

I'm running 3" steel square (thick) tubing all the way across the frame 4 of them total, for the bed side and this is what I call a sub-frame.  Good Luck! :up: :up: