bobbin

Started by bigman, May 10, 2005, 07:12:22 PM

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bigman

w :confused: hat tools will i need to bob my bed
tell me o mighty ones :bowdown:
MONTANA BOYS KICK A$$
IF U CANT DUCK IT F IT

seanc

sawz-all, 4.5" cut-off wheel, welder. and a 14 and a 17 mm wrench and socket to take the body mounts off
You win some, you lose some.

KYOTA

Grinder BLEH !! step up like chopperman did and use a concrete cut-off saw

blackdiamond

A friend on mine did mine without removing it from the truck, use cutting tool of your choice and a welder.  Make sure you cut it in the ribbed section of bed so that it will match up when you put it back together.  I cut mine way at the back where it is flat and it looks ugly attached to the ripped portion.  I had never seen it done when I did it, learn from my experience.  I wouldn't cut more than 10-12 inches, I cut 13" and I hardly ever get close to touching it offroad.  Also make sure you leave at least 2-3 inches of frame behind the rear shackle mount in case you upgrade in the future to longer rear springs, another mistake that I made.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

Jared

actually kyota i used one of the hand held cutoff 14 inch saw to trim my friends bed...worked out great...
ah the beauty of a cuttin torch

seanc

i wasn't saying you had to take it off but if you have a 4runner or a long bed there are 2 rear body mounts that will need to be chopped off. and moved forward.
You win some, you lose some.

blackdiamond

Quote from: seanc on May 10, 2005, 09:15:28 PM
i wasn't saying you had to take it off but if you have a 4runner or a long bed there are 2 rear body mounts that will need to be chopped off. and moved forward.

I think mine was a long bed, but I didn't move any body mounts, hmm.  Is that all years, mine is an 85?
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

seanc

maybe its only 4runners i though the 2 shared body mounts apparntly not. oh well
You win some, you lose some.

4Hummer

you all fogot the most important toolz

You need a couple cases of beer to do the job.  Geez
1991 Toyota 4Runner
Custom Convertable "CHOP"
22RE, Skyjacker SHocks, 3" Body Lift.
www.mudrunner.ca

awhotrods

thats a sweet 55 chevy in the background!  I got one next to my yota project too!

Quote from: KYOTA on May 10, 2005, 07:48:45 PM
Grinder BLEH !! step up like chopperman did and use a concrete cut-off saw

alwayzbroken

Just use a hacksaw.  :yupyup:
If you still have control you aren't going fast enough

bigman

thanks guys for the info
just how long will it take me do do the whole thing
MONTANA BOYS KICK A$$
IF U CANT DUCK IT F IT

blackdiamond

mine took about 6 hours, but we didn't clean the weld up very much.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

toybuilt

I used a sawzall, welder and some clamps.
2021 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off Road

1983 Toyota Turned Chevy

Treat every day like its your last, because you never know when your time is up. In loving memory of Judstin.

TrackVino

Just did my 4 runner, check it out.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=6974.60

Click on page 3 where I cut and put together.

I used a 4" cut off wheel on my grinder, and slowly cut down the line.

For the bed bottom, I did cut on the rear flat part, then left an extra overhang on the ribbed side to overlap on the flat part.
I then cut lines on the high side of the rib, then hammered one side down at a time which made a flat lip thats easier to weld. It doesn't look very bad either.

I cut 3" strips of the section I removed in order to use as backing, it helps with strength and easier to weld.

Before I cut Theo, I drilled some holes on the edges that were going to stay which allowed me to weld the extra plate on the inside by just filling in the holes. This added strength and made it easier to weld instead of trying to weld from the inside.

Didn't take very long to cut and tack weld, but I wanted it to look a little bit better, so I took some time on it.

Hope this helps, from one newbie to another.

blackdiamond

That is a great example of quality work.  I have not seen the fiberglass top cut at that location before?  Truck looks great!
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

UNBREAKABLE

umm, lets see. Beer for sure. BFH, battery drill, sheet metal screws and bondo :gap:
That's how I roll

TOYJOETA

On mine i tried a couple of different tools, 4.5 ginder, sawsall, but  jigsaw with a bocsh metal cutting blade made the best cuts and was 20 times easier to use, still had to bust out the sawsall for a couple of places, like where the bed sides and bed floor meet, but that was it.
Rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.
There are only 3 kinds of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't. Which are you?

bigman

 i was thinkin about a jig saw i like the way u think toyjeota.
can u gus post some pics of the process.
trackvino i like the crawler
MONTANA BOYS KICK A$$
IF U CANT DUCK IT F IT

TrackVino

Thanks

The problem with the jig saw and sawzall however you spell it, is that it wiggles the metal front and back, which in some places gets out of hand. If you use a cutting blade on a grinder, its just a smooth streight cut, no moving, so things dont get warped. Thats my  :twocents:

bigman

that is some good info trackvino
MONTANA BOYS KICK A$$
IF U CANT DUCK IT F IT

TOYJOETA

Quote from: TrackVino on May 14, 2005, 02:48:39 PM
Thanks

The problem with the jig saw and sawzall however you spell it, is that it wiggles the metal front and back, which in some places gets out of hand. If you use a cutting blade on a grinder, its just a smooth streight cut, no moving, so things dont get warped. Thats my :twocents:

True, I had that prob at the top of the bed but it wasn't to bad, the rest of the cutting was as smooth as butter, just make sure you buy good blades, the ones I bought were bosch I got them at home depot, there progresive, they go from 24-36 TPI or somtin like that, but they work really awsome, and really easy to control, I still used the grinder just to make, the starter hole to put the blade through.

Have some pics there in my buddy's camera, I'll have to get them from him.
Rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.
There are only 3 kinds of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't. Which are you?

bigman

MONTANA BOYS KICK A$$
IF U CANT DUCK IT F IT